Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Tech Forum > Newby's guide to lifting your JK

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: Newby's guide to lifting your JK Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 05:17 PM
bbalfour Ken,

You're obviously a wealth of information when it comes to lifting Jeeps...I'm interested in lifting my own 2012 Jeep Wrangler 4dr.

Although I appreciate ALL you, and other's have shared, I've somehow allowed confusion to seep in. I'm a 54 year (older) kid (semi-mechanically inclined) needing a "DIY" project and picked this one. And a might add----big time nooby to Jeep and lifts!

It's funny...I know EXACTLY what I want my Jeep to look and ride like in my noggin!! But- getting there is where the road starts forking and leading me astray. I'm hoping you can shed some light on my dilemma.

This project (I have and almost hate to admit) is more about being cool than anything else. I'm not a huge off-road guy...At least haven't been to date. Maybe that will change after this project.

My sole reason for lift is:
= 35" tires on my stock 17' rims...I love the taller and "tire under fender look" versus squatty and wide...It's become an obsession after observing this set-up on other Jeep's cruising about town. Just a great look cosmetically to me! I, probably unlike other's, genuinely like the stock wheels and will paint black...I really want to keep ride as smooth as possible. I've also learned (from you), I'll need 1-1/2" back spacers for this set-up.

I drive:
= 90% time on pavement...5% sandy beach and 5% Texas Hill Country backwoods (nothing I can't drive with current stock set-up)
Stock fenders, stock bumpers, etc...No future plans to change these areas.

I will (if it don't kill me first):
= Do it myself with MAYBE a couple son's help if needed (They think they'll get the bullpen call but I'm feeling a tad more confident since finding this site)

Now the nasty (confusing) part...LIFT KIT!
(I'm thinking 2-1/2" but don't want a 2-1/2" kit...that ends up giving me 3-1/2"!...thereby leading to geometry issues)

Lift Kit:
= What type? (Manufacturer), size? (less is better for geometry reasons I've gathered but enough lift where I don't rub) and lastly, a kit whereas ALL parts are included? (to meet my stated goals...IE: The perfect kit where I have everything I need, to make everything right...for me and my Jeep) ... I just want to stay away from "the additional parts" needed after install...Frankly, that's where all the confusion started.
Other than some fine tuning, I want the chosen kit to allow my Jeep to ride, steer, turn. etc. correctly and as smooth as possible with the 35" tires.

$$$'s?
= I'm like anybody else out there...I'd much prefer to do this for less than more. BUT-having 0 (ZERO) issues is my greatest concern.

I've been a tad long winded here but us Texan's are unfortunately kinda built this way

Any and all info you can provide is greatly appreciated. And I really mean that.
The time you've given to other's is commendable.

I'm ready to put this to bed and "get er dun"

Thx!
Jim
Yesterday 08:48 PM
MKDFW
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
thanks for posting and good luck with the jeep
Thanks for the comprehensive answers.
Yesterday 07:52 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKDFW View Post
This is my first post, and I am looking at ordering a 2015 Unlimited. Your Jeep looks great. I have a few questions. kjeeper10, please feel free to give your input as well. This thread is incredibly valuable.

thank you my friend.
  1. Why did you pick the AEV 2.5" lift vs. AEV 2" Spacer Suspension? If I am not planning on adding a bunch of weight, would the 2" Spacer Suspension be a better choice?

    yes you are correct. W/ no weight a spacer lift/budget boost will work for you.
  2. Your wheels look great, and they look similar to the AEV Pintler Beadlock wheels. Is it the same wheel, but a different brand?

    Thanks .. First time hearing this. You're right now that I think of it my wheels are level 8 ZX's. Recently discontinued actually There is a pro series coming out very soon. If you off road, the new ZX comes with a rock ring /scratch guard.
  3. What is the backspacing on your wheels? Any issues in running 285/75 R 17 tires?

    My backspacing is 3.75 I believe. A 275/75/17 is showing a 34"diameter tire but 11" width which is narrow and would not require more (less) backspacing. Is the width what you want ?
  4. Are you using spacers for the wheels?

    no sir. Spacers are used if installing wider tires and using the stock wheels w/ 6.25 back space. You could run your tire size above with a factory wheel w/ no spacers.
thanks for posting and good luck with the jeep
Yesterday 01:58 PM
MKDFW
Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
Another shout out to Kjeeper10 and all the other posters who posted and or answered my questions on lifts. I installed an AEV 2.5 lift this past weekend with a Zone adjustable front track bar (needed or not), AEV correction brackets, and rear sway bar links (for the front). We also installed Toyo Open Country ATII XT in 285/75 R 17 on Level 8 wheels. Jeep rode well on the test drive, but regardless, took it in for an alignment this morning. Ride is as good or better than factory, to me at least.
This is my first post, and I am looking at ordering a 2015 Unlimited. Your Jeep looks great. I have a few questions. kjeeper10, please feel free to give your input as well. This thread is incredibly valuable.

  1. Why did you pick the AEV 2.5" lift vs. AEV 2" Spacer Suspension? If I am not planning on adding a bunch of weight, would the 2" Spacer Suspension be a better choice?
  2. Your wheels look great, and they look similar to the AEV Pintler Beadlock wheels. Is it the same wheel, but a different brand?
  3. What is the backspacing on your wheels? Any issues in running 285/75 R 17 tires?
  4. Are you using spacers for the wheels?
Yesterday 07:42 AM
tabber02
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJeepster View Post
It's already on brother and then I woke up!
07-23-2014 09:53 PM
JerryJeepster
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Lol... "One day" right ?
It's already on brother and then I woke up!
07-23-2014 01:36 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJeepster View Post
This for sure! I can't say it enough, my 2.5 max travel has been perfect! And yes, on my 2 door I definitely cleared 3" with a bunch of weight on mine. That being said, I can't wait to sell my setup and go with their 3.5" coil over and 38" tires and her maybe down the road I'll strap on their long arm system!
Lol... "One day" right ?
07-23-2014 01:34 PM
JerryJeepster
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Those are technically 4 door coils. For me 1.5 coils give more height.
Bad example since you have a 4 door.
You can def fit a 35" tire with flat flares and minor trimming of the pinch seam at 1.5"
2.5 coils or a BL if adding weight.
Check with the venders, those prices are retail.
I would go with the max travel w/ the track bar.

I'll check the link at lunch.
This for sure! I can't say it enough, my 2.5 max travel has been perfect! And yes, on my 2 door I definitely cleared 3" with a bunch of weight on mine. That being said, I can't wait to sell my setup and go with their 3.5" coil over and 38" tires and her maybe down the road I'll strap on their long arm system!
07-23-2014 08:45 AM
kjeeper10 Those are technically 4 door coils. For me 1.5 coils give more height.
Bad example since you have a 4 door.
You can def fit a 35" tire with flat flares and minor trimming of the pinch seam at 1.5"
2.5 coils or a BL if adding weight.
Check with the venders, those prices are retail.
I would go with the max travel w/ the track bar.


I'll check the link at lunch.
07-23-2014 08:38 AM
Maxx143
Quote:
Originally Posted by micahd View Post
I think this is my plan, thanks so much for the POV. Qs - When you say RK 1.5's I assume you mean Rock Krawler's 1.5" lift setup, right? I've always been a TF guy but their stuff looks great. I assume you'd reco the $1249 max travel over $999 expedition, as former adds track bar and rear brake lines. Ouch, but hey life's short. JK 1.5" Systems Last Q (yeah, right!) When you say: "2.5" max running RK 1.5's", are you assuming you'd do RK1.5s + 1" of body lift, or use one of RK's 2.5" kits? I don't plan to do this twice, so may do 2.5" (plus flatties) w/ 35s from the start. I see I can buy longer swaybar links (e.g. MetalCloak) that bolt to my UR's OEM elec disco gadget. Maybe the RK kits' ones would even work. See you all on the trails. Headed to this in a couple weeks, psyched: VERMONT OVERLAND TROPHY, August 4-9, 2014 | Vermont Overland: promoting adventure travel in the Green Mountain State
RK's springs are rated for 4-dr JKs so when installed on a 2-dr they net about and extra 1" of lift.

I'm running the RK 1.5 X-Factor with 35s on my JKRX and I got about 2.5" of lift from the kit.
07-23-2014 08:06 AM
micahd
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
That would indeed make more sense running a 35" tire. 37's are pushing the line w/ axle steering /upgrades. A lot of folks on the forums run hydro assist w/ 37's.
Flat flares, RK triple rate 1.5's ride freakin awesome. You're looking at 1.5-2" lift avoiding any geometry issues. Flat flares, min bump stop. Swaybar links and shocks. A nice 11" travel 5100, OME or Rancho 9000 adjustable shock.
Sweet setup, inexpensive and will drive like a dream. I like what you're doing here. I keep saying, if I were to start over ... 2.5" max running RK 1.5's w/ 35's
I think this is my plan, thanks so much for the POV.

Qs - When you say RK 1.5's I assume you mean Rock Krawler's 1.5" lift setup, right? I've always been a TF guy but their stuff looks great. I assume you'd reco the $1249 max travel over $999 expedition, as former adds track bar and rear brake lines. Ouch, but hey life's short.
JK 1.5" Systems
Last Q (yeah, right!) When you say: "2.5" max running RK 1.5's", are you assuming you'd do RK1.5s + 1" of body lift, or use one of RK's 2.5" kits? I don't plan to do this twice, so may do 2.5" (plus flatties) w/ 35s from the start.

I see I can buy longer swaybar links (e.g. MetalCloak) that bolt to my UR's OEM elec disco gadget. Maybe the RK kits' ones would even work.

See you all on the trails. Headed to this in a couple weeks, psyched:
VERMONT OVERLAND TROPHY, August 4-9, 2014 | Vermont Overland: promoting adventure travel in the Green Mountain State
07-23-2014 04:18 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr8dawg View Post
Umm, i think you just quoted your answer! LOL!!
Lol..

The issue is not so much sagging but -more height with no weight. RK, MC both list heights based of loaded jeeps.
07-22-2014 11:13 PM
Fr8dawg Umm, i think you just quoted your answer! LOL!!
07-22-2014 11:11 PM
Glass308
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
2.5 is generally a safe height to be at. The issue is, most lift coils are stiffer and made to support weight. So if you don't have heavy bumpers/winch/tire carrier/skid system/etc. that 2.5" lift might end up at 4"


Excuse this noob's confusion here.... But I am thinking of doing the "safe" 2.5 as well. But I have a full size tire on the rear, a stinger bumper, and a winch. Is that 2.5 lift even going to be noticeable ?? Should I go to a 3" (....or more) ?
Thanks.
07-22-2014 04:19 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by micahd View Post
See, this is what I'm thinking too. No geometry issues, stock ride, easy install. I've done the lift route before but not sure it's the only way to go. However, I'd think 37s w flares and no lift would require some seriously longer (+3-4") bumpstops, limiting up travel. Right? This is where I could really use the advice of this thread's group. Assuming yes that 37s wouldn't give me much travel (although MC site seems to state otherwise), my plan may be buying MC fenders but running 35s*. $700 before wheels/tires. Less worry about axles and steering components. Thoughts? *SSwamper Rads actually measure 35.3 according to interco, maybe perfect for this lcog build plan.
That would indeed make more sense running a 35" tire. 37's are pushing the line w/ axle steering /upgrades. A lot of folks on the forums run hydro assist w/ 37's.
Flat flares, RK triple rate 1.5's ride freakin awesome. You're looking at 1.5-2" lift avoiding any geometry issues. Flat flares, min bump stop. Swaybar links and shocks. A nice 11" travel 5100, OME or Rancho 9000 adjustable shock.
Sweet setup, inexpensive and will drive like a dream. I like what you're doing here. I keep saying, if I were to start over ... 2.5" max running RK 1.5's w/ 35's
07-21-2014 10:35 PM
micahd
Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterTheBeagle View Post
Metalcloak claims you can run 37s with no lift and their overline fenders. There pricey tho and like Ken suggested I would still think a small lift would work best with them. But they maybe worth looking into if u have the cash and are looking for tube fenders for a lcg 37 build.
See, this is what I'm thinking too. No geometry issues, stock ride, easy install. I've done the lift route before but not sure it's the only way to go.

However, I'd think 37s w flares and no lift would require some seriously longer (+3-4") bumpstops, limiting up travel. Right? This is where I could really use the advice of this thread's group. Assuming yes that 37s wouldn't give me much travel (although MC site seems to state otherwise), my plan may be buying MC fenders but running 35s*. $700 before wheels/tires. Less worry about axles and steering components. Thoughts?

*SSwamper Rads actually measure 35.3 according to interco, maybe perfect for this lcog build plan.
07-21-2014 08:53 PM
HunterTheBeagle
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

no doubt.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Jeep-Wrang...der-p/3214.htm

Freakin pricey though. Id rip off and run no fenders
That's always an option lol. I guess connectthedots isn't as strict as pennsyltucky is on their fender laws :/
07-21-2014 08:14 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterTheBeagle View Post
Metalcloak claims you can run 37s with no lift and their overline fenders. There pricey tho and like Ken suggested I would still think a small lift would work best with them. But they maybe worth looking into if u have the cash and are looking for tube fenders for a lcg 37 build.
no doubt.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Jeep-Wrang...der-p/3214.htm

Freakin pricey though. Id rip off and run no fenders
07-21-2014 08:08 PM
HunterTheBeagle
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh1 View Post
KJeeper10: Kudos for sharing your knowledge with us. I've had my JKURX with 4.10 for a few months and it is stock. Just pondering it's future. Been to a couple of offroad parks and it did great except for dragging bottom. If I installed flat fenders and 37" tires, that would raise everything about 2 1/2". At this point, am I correct that driveline angles, caster, etc. would be unchanged? (I know the big tires bring concerns as to axle strength, c's, mpg, gears, etc.) Then I could add a mild lift, say 2" or so without needing caster correction, new driveshafts, etc. and I would have a total lift of over 4 1/2". Your thoughts? Thanks.
Metalcloak claims you can run 37s with no lift and their overline fenders. There pricey tho and like Ken suggested I would still think a small lift would work best with them. But they maybe worth looking into if u have the cash and are looking for tube fenders for a lcg 37 build.
07-21-2014 06:40 PM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
Perfect timing jadmt! My next move is to dial in the psi. I was thinking about starting at 32 34 psi. Good to know I can go down to 28 30!
I have been from 26 to 37psi and for me 28-30psi is perfect on the road. 28 actually being preferable. They have a 3ply side wall with thick rubber as you know and off road you need to be down to 15 or so to make them work their best. I have been to Moab with them and probably could go lower even.
07-21-2014 06:26 PM
LV Naturist
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post

I have been running those same tires for the last 12500 miles on my 14 jkur and for off road drop down to around 15-17psi and for on road 28-30psi is perfect. mine have shown 0 wear and look like they will last at least 60,000 miles on the first 12500 miles.
Perfect timing jadmt! My next move is to dial in the psi. I was thinking about starting at 32 34 psi. Good to know I can go down to 28 30!
07-21-2014 05:56 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh1 View Post
Those are the same dimensions I get with the steel bumpers and winch on it. I think the 19/60's are because it has the max tow package. I will read that linked thread this eve. Thanks very much.
So you'll def want a coil that can support the weight. Ie Synergy, Rock Krawler, Metal cloak.
07-21-2014 05:35 PM
Stosh1 Those are the same dimensions I get with the steel bumpers and winch on it. I think the 19/60's are because it has the max tow package.
I will read that linked thread this eve. Thanks very much.
07-21-2014 05:16 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh1 View Post
In case you missed it, I have the X pkg, so it has the steel bumpers front and rear. I did add a front winch (only mod) but since the springs are 19/60, the front only dropped about 3/8". Guess I could add spring spacers and shock extenders temporarily to accommodate the 37's while deciding what to do next. Maybe Metalcloak 2 1/2" GC?
Wasn't aware the X had taller coils
Curious ... What do you get for a measurement here in this pic ?


Here's the link
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31183
07-21-2014 05:01 PM
Stosh1 In case you missed it, I have the X pkg, so it has the steel bumpers front and rear. I did add a front winch (only mod) but since the springs are 19/60, the front only dropped about 3/8". Guess I could add spring spacers and shock extenders temporarily to accommodate the 37's while deciding what to do next. Maybe Metalcloak 2 1/2" GC?
07-21-2014 04:51 PM
kjeeper10 Not overdoing it is key. BL's don't look as bad on JK's as they did on the TJ.
With bumpers, I think they are not that noticeable.
You can run without but would need a ton of bump stop.

I'm looking for a thread I read some time back. Hold tight.
07-21-2014 04:39 PM
Stosh1 a
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You have the right idea. Building the jeep around tire size 2 things you have going against you. 37's and break over angle (4 door).
The goal = LCG, 37's and avoid geometry issues, this is what I would do.

At min 2.5" of lift. Are you going to run any weight ? (Bumpers/winch/etc)
Flat flares
1.25 body lift
10-11" travel shocks
2-3" bump stop front and rear.
Trim rear pinch seems/rail
Stubby or trimmed front bumper
Sway bar end links

That will comfortably fit a 37" tire. Cost effective and no geometry issues. I would still add a set of front lower or upper CA's for caster angle.

Rock Krawler has some killer 1.5 expedition style kits if in the budget. I would still look at a small BL to fit a 37" tire.

I strongly recommend (at min) upper C gussets, possibly sleeves or a truss. Ball joints at the same time. 37's are going to be tough on the front axle, and both axle shafts.

Good luck, it's going to be a killer build.
Hadn't considered the body lift idea, since have read negative comments about it. But since I respect your opinion, will give it some study. Do you think the plan would still work okay without the BL? I'm glad you think I'm on the right track.......and thanks for the advice and encouragement.
07-21-2014 04:29 PM
kjeeper10 You have the right idea. Building the jeep around tire size 2 things you have going against you. 37's and break over angle (4 door).
The goal = LCG, 37's and avoid geometry issues, this is what I would do.

At min 2.5" of lift. Are you going to run any weight ? (Bumpers/winch/etc)
Flat flares
1.25 body lift
10-11" travel shocks
2-3" bump stop front and rear.
Trim rear pinch seems/rail
Stubby or trimmed front bumper
Sway bar end links

That will comfortably fit a 37" tire. Cost effective and no geometry issues. I would still add a set of front lower or upper CA's for caster angle.

Rock Krawler has some killer 1.5 expedition style kits if in the budget. I would still look at a small BL to fit a 37" tire.

I strongly recommend (at min) upper C gussets, possibly sleeves or a truss. Ball joints at the same time. 37's are going to be tough on the front axle, and both axle shafts.

Good luck, it's going to be a killer build.
07-21-2014 04:04 PM
Stosh1 KJeeper10: Kudos for sharing your knowledge with us. I've had my JKURX with 4.10 for a few months and it is stock. Just pondering it's future. Been to a couple of offroad parks and it did great except for dragging bottom. If I installed flat fenders and 37" tires, that would raise everything about 2 1/2". At this point, am I correct that driveline angles, caster, etc. would be unchanged? (I know the big tires bring concerns as to axle strength, c's, mpg, gears, etc.) Then I could add a mild lift, say 2" or so without needing caster correction, new driveshafts, etc. and I would have a total lift of over 4 1/2". Your thoughts? Thanks.
07-21-2014 02:47 PM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by LV Naturist View Post
Thanks Hunter. I liked those wheels the moment I saw them, and DT gave me a great deal on the wheel tire combo. Now I just need to test it all out on the trail...

John
I have been running those same tires for the last 12500 miles on my 14 jkur and for off road drop down to around 15-17psi and for on road 28-30psi is perfect. mine have shown 0 wear and look like they will last at least 60,000 miles on the first 12500 miles.
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:44 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC