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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-30-2014 10:54 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Hawaii View Post
Yes, the rear was possibly less than 1/4" over corrected, but doesn't bother me any, visually. I still need to jack it up to see how much travel there is for the brake line. Will possibly add longer lines on the front if needed since I have the disconnects up front. Thanks again for the good info!
no problem man.
09-30-2014 10:15 AM
JK Hawaii Yes, the rear was possibly less than 1/4" over corrected, but doesn't bother me any, visually. I still need to jack it up to see how much travel there is for the brake line. Will possibly add longer lines on the front if needed since I have the disconnects up front.
Thanks again for the good info!
09-29-2014 05:00 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-7 View Post
You will need a new carrier with 3:21's in the front. Small price to pay considering the cost of regearing both axles. Now is the time to add a locker or lockers. Fwiw ... Largely depending on where you live. Just gearing alone and labor can cost as low as $1k parts and labor to over 2k I often see $1500 as a average. W/ lockers it's obviously more. Have any good links for this ? I am not even sure where to start.
Best bet Mike is to call around to different shops in your area. You can get ring/pinion gear sets plus master install kit/, carrier for $700 or so buying from a vender. Labor is what's going to hurt. I have a friend that offered to so mine. Post local ... You never know. Might be somebody with experience doing gears.

See if you can find the shock part numbers and google them. XTryan is a good guy. He might be able to get the info too.
Edit: does the kit come with bump stops ? Most do.
09-29-2014 06:19 AM
Mike-7 You will need a new carrier with 3:21's in the front. Small price to pay considering the cost of regearing both axles. Now is the time to add a locker or lockers. Fwiw ... Largely depending on where you live. Just gearing alone and labor can cost as low as $1k parts and labor to over 2k
I often see $1500 as a average. W/ lockers it's obviously more.


Have any good links for this ? I am not even sure where to start.
09-29-2014 05:07 AM
Mike-7
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
"Feel free to send me a invoice" lol I'll get with the in the AM.

Real quick .. There's no C's to gusset in the rear. C's are part of the steering knuckle. The upper especially is weak. Find out the shock specs and post them. This will help determine bump stop heights. What size tire are you going to run and how hard is the jeep going to be wheeled ?
Edit: ehh Monday already
Your profile says 2 door but picture shows a 4 door ?
You asked about rear pinion angle. On a 2 door the rear shaft is short and benefits with pinion correction in the rear. Does this mean you absolutely need upper control arms ? It's recommended yes, but I've been rolling around w/ 4" of lift and nothing in the rear. This diner mean you will have the same experience. It's a good idea if you have a 2 door ..... I'll leave it at that.
A BL is a good way to gain tire clearance without affecting steering/suspension geometry. There is honesty no reason to do so unless running a 37+ with only 2.5" of actual lift height.
Yes ... Going up in gear size
You will need a new carrier with 3:21's in the front. Small price to pay considering the cost of regearing both axles. Now is the time to add a locker or lockers. Fwiw ... Largely depending on where you live. Just gearing alone and labor can cost as low as $1k parts and labor to over 2k
I often see $1500 as a average. W/ lockers it's obviously more.

Hope I covered everything ?

Yes ! Covered everything, you are awesome.
- I have a 4 door. I need to change my profile. Traded my 2 door on a 4 door.
- 35" tires
- I will only wheel 1-2 days per month, but when I do....I'll be drinking Dos equis.... and will be wheeling hard !
- Ok, new gears it is. OUCH that is expensive.
- hmmm not sure on shock specs...having a hard time finding the answer. The kit doesn't say, maybe a phone call to XT (selling me the kit) will know. Have to get back to you on that 1.
Thanks for all the help.
09-28-2014 10:57 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyofMike View Post
Ugh, I'm feeling indecisive...and cheap. I can get a Teraflex leveling kit for pretty cheap, or buy the Rough Country basic 2.5" budget boost for around $140. The RC is 2.5" front and 1.75 rear- so it will lift and level more than the TF leveling (2" front / 1.5" rear). I want to get as close to 2.5" lift, so the RC is sounding a bit better...being a cheapskate is hard!
Not at all.
The RC BB is a well put together kit. Actually the first lift I helped install on a 4 door. Ahh memories
09-28-2014 10:54 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-7 View Post
Big thank you to this thread. When I started reading 1 week ago I was a housecat...now I am a lion. Ok enough of that, here is what I am getting, please let me know if I forgot anything and I will order immediately so hopefully everything can arrive at the same time. - RR 2.5" lift kit with shocks -= $599 - RR exhaust spacer kit = $30 - Quadratech C gusset kit with upper and lower = $65 for 2.5" axle diameter - RC front sway bar disconnects = $60 - AEV front geo control arm brackets = $99 - Alloy USA heavy duty ball joint set = $195 - RR brakeline relocation brackets x 2 sets = $14 Questions: - Should I also get a Gusset kit for the Dana 44's in the rear ? - Should I also get 2 or3" front and rear axle bumpstops ? - Do I need to adjust pinion angle in the rear ? - Would adding a BL kit also help or hurt ? I'm trying to squeeze any extra lift I can get - I want to upgrade my 3.21 gears, but I'm seeing something about needing upgraded carriers. Suggestions with links ? Thanks for all the help. Feel free to send me an invoice !
"Feel free to send me a invoice" lol I'll get with the in the AM.

Real quick .. There's no C's to gusset in the rear. C's are part of the steering knuckle. The upper especially is weak. Find out the shock specs and post them. This will help determine bump stop heights. What size tire are you going to run and how hard is the jeep going to be wheeled ?
Edit: ehh Monday already
Your profile says 2 door but picture shows a 4 door ?
You asked about rear pinion angle. On a 2 door the rear shaft is short and benefits with pinion correction in the rear. Does this mean you absolutely need upper control arms ? It's recommended yes, but I've been rolling around w/ 4" of lift and nothing in the rear. This diner mean you will have the same experience. It's a good idea if you have a 2 door ..... I'll leave it at that.
A BL is a good way to gain tire clearance without affecting steering/suspension geometry. There is honesty no reason to do so unless running a 37+ with only 2.5" of actual lift height.
Yes ... Going up in gear size
You will need a new carrier with 3:21's in the front. Small price to pay considering the cost of regearing both axles. Now is the time to add a locker or lockers. Fwiw ... Largely depending on where you live. Just gearing alone and labor can cost as low as $1k parts and labor to over 2k
I often see $1500 as a average. W/ lockers it's obviously more.

Hope I covered everything ?
09-28-2014 10:44 PM
ArmyofMike Ugh, I'm feeling indecisive...and cheap.

I can get a Teraflex leveling kit for pretty cheap, or buy the Rough Country basic 2.5" budget boost for around $140. The RC is 2.5" front and 1.75 rear- so it will lift and level more than the TF leveling (2" front / 1.5" rear). I want to get as close to 2.5" lift, so the RC is sounding a bit better...being a cheapskate is hard!
09-28-2014 09:20 PM
Mike-7 Big thank you to this thread. When I started reading 1 week ago I was a housecat...now I am a lion. Ok enough of that, here is what I am getting, please let me know if I forgot anything and I will order immediately so hopefully everything can arrive at the same time.

- RR 2.5" lift kit with shocks -= $599
- RR exhaust spacer kit = $30
- Quadratech C gusset kit with upper and lower = $65 for 2.5" axle diameter
- RC front sway bar disconnects = $60
- AEV front geo control arm brackets = $99
- Alloy USA heavy duty ball joint set = $195
- RR brakeline relocation brackets x 2 sets = $14


Questions:
- Should I also get a Gusset kit for the Dana 44's in the rear ?
- Should I also get 2 or3" front and rear axle bumpstops ?
- Do I need to adjust pinion angle in the rear ?
- Would adding a BL kit also help or hurt ? I'm trying to squeeze any extra lift I can get
- I want to upgrade my 3.21 gears, but I'm seeing something about needing upgraded carriers. Suggestions with links ?

Thanks for all the help. Feel free to send me an invoice !
09-28-2014 02:37 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Hawaii View Post
I've finally installed most of your recommended add-ons to my 2.5" bb lift. Now I have a few more questions. I've installed Terraflex front disconnect sway bar arms and the sway bar is not level but a little higher. Is that ok? I've also installed brake line extension brackets on the front and rear. I've noticed the rear seems to have way too much excess slack in the hose looping backward. Is the rear really needed for a 2.5 lift? Should I remove it? I guess I should lift the rear to check max flex to find out if I need it. Will the front bracket be enough if I disconnect the sway bar or do you need longer hoses? The Teraflex rear track bar bracket seemed to help a bit too! But should I us the lower hole connection for the track bar since it's only a 2.5 lift or keep it at the top hole on the bracket? I've seen another post saying they used the lower hole, but wasn't sure what lift they had.
Some very good questions actually.

No issues running 5 or even 10 degrees up on the front swaybar. You're perfectly fine there.

Def flex out the rear and see what the brake line do. the brackets drop the lines what 2" ?
With a 2" rear lift height, the line will have the same loop as stock. Just make sure the brake line doesn't rub the shock body.
Same thing with the front, flex it out. There's only so much you can get in the front. Most kits only address the rear with a bracket and supply longer lines up front. (This is more of a issue 07-11)
12-15 have longer lines unclipped from the coil perch.

Measure the rear axle center. I'm guessing the axle will be slightly over corrected using the top hole. 1/4 or so won't cause any issues either way. The jeep will handle better using the top hole. If the axle being slightly shifted doesn't "visually" bother you. Leave it alone
09-28-2014 02:25 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYLiberty View Post
I understand that they didn't shift enough to be an issue. The problem is I read too much and now I notice it when I look at the Jeep. I'll probably be going to a taller lift with some 315/70R17s in the future, so I don't mind spending the money to correct it now since those parts will still be usable then. Of course, as always, you made a very good point about adding weight moving them closer to stock. Maybe I should do bumpers and rock rails next instead. I was trying to hold off on them until next year, but doubt I'll be able to.
Average 3/8 on a 2.5" lift (3" front) so it can't be more then 1/4 with 2" w/ a leveling kit. Even less in the rear with a leveling kit only lifting the rear 1" or so.

If you do go higher and install a rear track bar bracket, the axle will be centered. The same goes for the front using a track bar bracket along with a flipped drag link (high steer kit). Many use the factory track bars 3-4" lift with track bar axle brackets.

Don't get me wrong, I still like the idea of a stronger track bar with better joints, and will usually recommend a front at 2.5+. Just for rigidity and DW prevention. The rear is not really needed at all with any lift as long as there's a track bar bracket.

Def save your money and put it towards the bumpers/rails. Address the front track bar later when the time comes.
09-28-2014 01:37 PM
JK Hawaii I've finally installed most of your recommended add-ons to my 2.5" bb lift. Now I have a few more questions. I've installed Terraflex front disconnect sway bar arms and the sway bar is not level but a little higher. Is that ok?

I've also installed brake line extension brackets on the front and rear. I've noticed the rear seems to have way too much excess slack in the hose looping backward. Is the rear really needed for a 2.5 lift? Should I remove it? I guess I should lift the rear to check max flex to find out if I need it. Will the front bracket be enough if I disconnect the sway bar or do you need longer hoses?

The Teraflex rear track bar bracket seemed to help a bit too! But should I us the lower hole connection for the track bar since it's only a 2.5 lift or keep it at the top hole on the bracket? I've seen another post saying they used the lower hole, but wasn't sure what lift they had.
09-28-2014 11:34 AM
KYLiberty
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
The axles should not have shifted enough to be a concern with a leveling kit. Just sitting in/adding weight in cargo, the axles shift back closer to stock
I understand that they didn't shift enough to be an issue. The problem is I read too much and now I notice it when I look at the Jeep. I'll probably be going to a taller lift with some 315/70R17s in the future, so I don't mind spending the money to correct it now since those parts will still be usable then.

Of course, as always, you made a very good point about adding weight moving them closer to stock. Maybe I should do bumpers and rock rails next instead. I was trying to hold off on them until next year, but doubt I'll be able to.
09-28-2014 11:10 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYLiberty View Post
I have a 2011 JKR. I've just had the Teraflex 1.5" spacer leveling kit installed, and have Duratrac 285/70R17's on the stock wheels with SpiderTrax 1.5" spacers. As expected, the front axle shifted towards the driver's side and the rear axle shifted towards the passenger's side. I see that the Teraflex track bars can be use with this small of a lift, but then could still be used when I decide to go with a larger lift in the future. Is there anything else I need to think about at this point? Edit: This is a daily driver that will see some good snow and ice in the mountains, and the very occasional class 2 trail.
The axles should not have shifted enough to be a concern with a leveling kit. Just sitting in/adding weight in cargo, the axles shift back closer to stock
09-28-2014 10:45 AM
KYLiberty I have a 2011 JKR. I've just had the Teraflex 1.5" spacer leveling kit installed, and have Duratrac 285/70R17's on the stock wheels with SpiderTrax 1.5" spacers. As expected, the front axle shifted towards the driver's side and the rear axle shifted towards the passenger's side. I see that the Teraflex track bars can be use with this small of a lift, but then could still be used when I decide to go with a larger lift in the future. Is there anything else I need to think about at this point?

Edit:
This is a daily driver that will see some good snow and ice in the mountains, and the very occasional class 2 trail.
09-28-2014 09:15 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndig29 View Post
spoke to him.. Its a stage 2 4" kit with 10,000 miles on it and only missing component is a trackbar.. Im thinking a jks adjustable will do the job, any thoughts on that?
Looking more into the stage 2 kit
- first make sure it applies to your JK (2 door/4 door)
- the price is good but the kit is pretty basic.
No steering correction or control arms.
- the kit uses cam bolts to adjust caster angle. To install them you have to grind open the lower CA mount at the axle. For $100 -$120 grab a set of AEV Or Rancho control arm drop brackets. These will do the same as the cam bolts but better. Install doesn't involve opening the CA holes.
- 4" is a lot of height and you may want to run steering correction ($300). Raising the track bar will enable you to keep the stock track bar if you choose.
- the description says to include front swaybar end links. Plan on front links or discos up front.

It's a decent start but incomplete. Just be ready to add some more parts.

http://moparonlineparts.com/jeep-wra...ft-p-5732.html
09-28-2014 08:45 AM
Ndig29
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
If you think everything including shocks, bushings look good ... Grab it.
spoke to him.. Its a stage 2 4" kit with 10,000 miles on it and only missing component is a trackbar.. Im thinking a jks adjustable will do the job, any thoughts on that?
09-28-2014 06:35 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndig29 View Post
not sure about miles but comes with fox shocks, guy took it out and upgraded to a 4.5" kit
If you think everything including shocks, bushings look good
... Grab it.
09-27-2014 11:16 PM
Ndig29
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
What the heck ... Nice find. How many miles ? What shocks ?
not sure about miles but comes with fox shocks, guy took it out and upgraded to a 4.5" kit
09-27-2014 10:01 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78S_106E View Post
BDS FOX shocks, 98224921 and 98224951, 2-3" Lift, IFP 2.0 (25.2" max and 15.2" minimum length)...a potential concern? Good news (?) is my RK coils will have clip retainers on each coil seat/perch. The rear coil retainers are a slick design with a large washer to secure the coil. The front coil retainers mount on the edge of the coil perch, not really liking that design. About that MC front bump stop kit...after I ordered it I read a review about how those 1" spacers are actually hockey pucks! Its a cool setup though.
You can run longer shocks or relocate the shock mounts.
Not a concern, those shocks are more for smaller lifts.

Before realizing the MC stops where pucks I ordered a 6 pack of Amazon for $16
Somebody on another forum was upset he got hockey pucks and paid $60.
09-27-2014 09:31 PM
78S_106E
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I'm thinking about the MC rear track bar/bracket too.

What are the actual shock specs ? Will you have enough extended length (down travel) ?

MC Hockey puck kit
BDS FOX shocks, 98224921 and 98224951, 2-3" Lift, IFP 2.0 (25.2" max and 15.2" minimum length)...a potential concern?

Good news (?) is my RK coils will have clip retainers on each coil seat/perch. The rear coil retainers are a slick design with a large washer to secure the coil. The front coil retainers mount on the edge of the coil perch, not really liking that design.

About that MC front bump stop kit...after I ordered it I read a review about how those 1" spacers are actually hockey pucks! Its a cool setup though.
09-27-2014 09:18 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jongo88 View Post
I have 14 in front and 54 in the rear....
You would gain a little height if you can find some 18/59's
09-27-2014 09:17 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
Ok. Well I was planning on doing a TF 2.5" coil lift later on but I have the shocks already and wanted to see if I could throw them on there for a little bit of a smoother ride.
Gotcha .. Just be careful.
09-27-2014 07:55 PM
Hbrown
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yes .. 2" bump stop front and rear is going to leave you with only about 2" up travel.
I would Recommend at least a leveling kit 2" front and 1" rear.
Ok. Well I was planning on doing a TF 2.5" coil lift later on but I have the shocks already and wanted to see if I could throw them on there for a little bit of a smoother ride.
09-27-2014 07:46 PM
jongo88
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
That will all depend on what you have for spring numbers and the numbers going in.
There's no such thing as rubicon springs. 4 doors typically have higher rate springs. Look at the tags -last two numbers.
Lowest 13 front 53 rear (or something like that)
Highest 19 front and 60 rear.

For brake dive a good set of shocks, even Rubicon shocks will help you out.
I have 14 in front and 54 in the rear....
09-27-2014 07:31 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
So I need bumpstops first but I could do it?
Yes .. 2" bump stop front and rear is going to leave you with only about 2" up travel.
I would Recommend at least a leveling kit 2" front and 1" rear.
09-27-2014 07:16 PM
Hbrown
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You could with extended bump stops. But you run the risk of bottoming out.

I believe the fronts are around a 1" longer compressed.
Rears almost 2" longer compressed.
So I need bumpstops first but I could do it?
09-27-2014 07:11 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
Could I run the rancho 9000 29/30xl shocks on a 0" lift?
You could with extended bump stops. But you run the risk of bottoming out.

I believe the fronts are around a 1" longer compressed.
Rears almost 2" longer compressed.
09-27-2014 07:07 PM
Hbrown Could I run the rancho 9000 29/30xl shocks on a 0" lift?
09-27-2014 06:42 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndig29 View Post
Just bought mopar 3" complete lift kit used on craigslist for $450.. I think its a good deal what do you guys think?
What the heck ... Nice find. How many miles ? What shocks ?
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