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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 06:54 PM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndig29 View Post
so i upgraded to 35s but no lift.. should i get the bolt upgrade kit?
For the cost of the kit, no hesitation what so ever bud, do it! The pay back is in the long run. Tighter suspension links, less play, longer miles before wear pokes its head.

Plus you can install them in your driveway with minimal tools and mechanical skills, worst case.

Em....
Yesterday 06:52 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndig29 View Post
so i upgraded to 35s but no lift.. should i get the bolt upgrade kit?
Hopefully this helps
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/do...ts-939401.html
Yesterday 05:56 PM
Ndig29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Em52 View Post
The stock bolts are 14mm and the control arms hole and "some" track bars (depending on model year) have 9/16" holes; plus the stock bolts have either a short shoulder between the head and the threads or no shoulder at all. This makes the surface area of contact inside the bushing being the threads point. The NR4x4 bolt upgrade gives you 9/16" bolts with wide shoulder for a better surface contact inside the bushings. Although 14mm and 9/16 is almost the same in measurement, within the QC (quality control tolerances) of MOPAR assembly line, the 14mm is a smidge smaller OD in size. This along that you have a reduced contact surface makes it wear faster, especially when upsizing tires. 9/16 = 14.28mm, 14mm bolt is not a tight enough fit, over time with larger tires, you get wobble, drifting, etc... Hope this helps your your inquiry! Em...
so i upgraded to 35s but no lift.. should i get the bolt upgrade kit?
Yesterday 05:47 PM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSteve View Post
So what exactly does the bolt kit prevent? Are they stronger or bigger in size to prevent unwanted thread contact? I feel I should already know this answer but ..
The stock bolts are 14mm and the control arms hole and "some" track bars (depending on model year) have 9/16" holes; plus the stock bolts have either a short shoulder between the head and the threads or no shoulder at all. This makes the surface area of contact inside the bushing being the threads point.

The NR4x4 bolt upgrade gives you 9/16" bolts with wide shoulder for a better surface contact inside the bushings. Although 14mm and 9/16 is almost the same in measurement, within the QC (quality control tolerances) of MOPAR assembly line, the 14mm is a smidge smaller OD in size. This along that you have a reduced contact surface makes it wear faster, especially when upsizing tires.

9/16 = 14.28mm, 14mm bolt is not a tight enough fit, over time with larger tires, you get wobble, drifting, etc... Hope this helps your your inquiry!

Em...
Yesterday 09:22 AM
MrSteve Gotcha. Makes more sense now.
Yesterday 09:05 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSteve View Post
So what exactly does the bolt kit prevent? Are they stronger or bigger in size to prevent unwanted thread contact? I feel I should already know this answer but ..
Check out the sticky area for the thread on the bolt upgrade. Mostly due to the shoulder instead of full thread. Small difference in size which helps some fill in the hole. For the most part .. Keep your bolts tight. Once loose, the threads eat into the bushings causing premature wear. If this happens in your front track bar ... DW.
Yesterday 08:35 AM
MrSteve
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

And there's people out there who think that's not a problem
So what exactly does the bolt kit prevent? Are they stronger or bigger in size to prevent unwanted thread contact?

I feel I should already know this answer but ..
Yesterday 07:53 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Em52 View Post
Found a pic of my rear track bar when I replaced it during the AEV 2.5 XT lift install, remember my JK was new, only 500 miles on it and no off roar yet! Em...
And there's people out there who think that's not a problem
Yesterday 06:19 AM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
Do you think the Northridge 4x4 bolt kit is a must with the TF 2.5" coil lift?
Found a pic of my rear track bar when I replaced it during the AEV 2.5 XT lift install, remember my JK was new, only 500 miles on it and no off roar yet!

Em...
Yesterday 03:56 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
Do you think the Northridge 4x4 bolt kit is a must with the TF 2.5" coil lift?
Yea I like the idea. At least the front 2 track bar bolts.
Yesterday 03:53 AM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbrown View Post
Do you think the Northridge 4x4 bolt kit is a must with the TF 2.5" coil lift?
I would get it regardless of the kit you install, not expensive and will make a difference in the long run in less wear. I installed the AEV 2.5 XT Dual Sport when my JK was only 1 month old and at about 500 miles, already had wear marks in the track bar bushings!

Em...
Yesterday 12:08 AM
Hbrown Do you think the Northridge 4x4 bolt kit is a must with the TF 2.5" coil lift?
10-28-2014 10:16 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by WPBJEEP View Post
Looking to put on a 2.5 lift on my 2014 JKU. I am looking at the Teraflex since it seems like its a solid "go to". However, I went to 4Wheelpart next to my house and they were pushing a 2.5 Procomp like crazy. Plus they quoted me $1300 plus another $200 if I wanted a warranty. HA! I'm not looking to 4wheel too much since I live in south FL. I heard that they actually own Procomp....and the reviews of the lift were all but good. Since I am just wanting a modest lift should I just go with the Teraflex BB or the Coil Lift?
Doesn't surprise me at all.
If you are not adding weight like bumpers, winch, tire carrier, etc. A simple BB is all you need. Maybe even front lower control arms or geo brackets for caster angle.
10-28-2014 09:25 AM
WPBJEEP Looking to put on a 2.5 lift on my 2014 JKU. I am looking at the Teraflex since it seems like its a solid "go to". However, I went to 4Wheelpart next to my house and they were pushing a 2.5 Procomp like crazy. Plus they quoted me $1300 plus another $200 if I wanted a warranty. HA! I'm not looking to 4wheel too much since I live in south FL. I heard that they actually own Procomp....and the reviews of the lift were all but good. Since I am just wanting a modest lift should I just go with the Teraflex BB or the Coil Lift?
10-28-2014 07:44 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ak4marsx View Post
Thanks for the quick reply! I probably would at least initially want to keep the rear links short to avoid issues with stock wheels. 2014 JK - If I went with swaybar disconnects to replace the front links/brackets in the kit, would it be wise to go ahead and put in an exhaust spacer kit due to the increased articulation when disconnected?
Yes
10-28-2014 07:20 AM
ak4marsx Thanks for the quick reply!

I probably would at least initially want to keep the rear links short to avoid issues with stock wheels. 2014 JK - If I went with swaybar disconnects to replace the front links/brackets in the kit, would it be wise to go ahead and put in an exhaust spacer kit due to the increased articulation when disconnected?
10-28-2014 01:52 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ak4marsx View Post
Looking at doing either a leveling kit or a 2.5" lift. Would like to keep my stock alloys till the tires wear out, then look at replacing wheels/tires with 33's or 35's. I've got a bit of a preference towards going with a single vendor's kit. I've heard some good things about AEV's drop brackets, so I decided to check out their 2.5" kit which can be used in conjunction with the brackets. Looks like AEV's 2.5" kit retains the stock rear swaybar end links (and thus can be used with the stock wheels without additional mods. American Expedition Vehicles - Brute Kit, V8 HEMI, Aftermarket Jeep Conversions, Products, Wheels, Accessories and Highline Kits for Jeeps (TJ, JK, WK, XK). Any idea why they wouldn't replace the rear swaybar end links? Any downside to that?
That's probably one reason, to be able to run the stock wheels. Most kits provide longer rears and move the stocks to the front.
The CA brackets don't come with the the AEV 2.5 kit. You have to order separately.
That's a decent kit. Many replace the front swaybar brackets with crown or stock rear links.
Obviously you want the swaybars level to the ground +/- a few degrees. I would source longer rears and use the stock rears in the front. Scrap the swaybar brackets. Another option, swaybar discos if you off road.
10-27-2014 11:12 PM
CassiusClay
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

The complete Artec kit cost $250. There are people that have done both truss/sleeves.
Honestly you may want to look into a takeoff front 44. Get it all done outside the jeep and save money. Gear the rear gears to match and swap it in when ready. Get your self some chrome-moly axle shafts for the rear. The most common issue is bent flanges. You may want to look into playing with the shock mounts to get a little more travel.
Hydro assist would be a batter option over the ATS w/ 37's +
Thank you for the advice! I will add rear shafts to my list now. Can you point me in a direction to find a take off dana 44 front axle?
10-27-2014 10:25 PM
ak4marsx Looking at doing either a leveling kit or a 2.5" lift. Would like to keep my stock alloys till the tires wear out, then look at replacing wheels/tires with 33's or 35's.
I've got a bit of a preference towards going with a single vendor's kit.
I've heard some good things about AEV's drop brackets, so I decided to check out their 2.5" kit which can be used in conjunction with the brackets.
Looks like AEV's 2.5" kit retains the stock rear swaybar end links (and thus can be used with the stock wheels without additional mods.
American Expedition Vehicles - Brute Kit, V8 HEMI, Aftermarket Jeep Conversions, Products, Wheels, Accessories and Highline Kits for Jeeps (TJ, JK, WK, XK).

Any idea why they wouldn't replace the rear swaybar end links? Any downside to that?
10-27-2014 03:48 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by CassiusClay View Post
It has finally come time for me to start putting together my lift. I have a 2014 JKU sport and have decided to run the 3.5 RK xfactor lift with 37x12.5x17 MTRs. I took your recommendation awhile back and purchased Rancho 9000s for this lift that have been waiting patiently in my garage. It will be getting regeared to 4.88 and Adams front and rear drive shafts. With running 37s on the dana 30, I understand I will need to beef it up. Is it overkill to do Synergy inner sleeves with their truss kit? I will be doing the C gussets, LCA skids, and ball joints as well. Should I also do the rear truss? If so, should I get it with or without spring perches? Any other recommendations? For steering correction, I plan on doing the Fox ATS stabilizer and Synergy steering correction kit. Any other recommendations? This is my DD that I drive 15 miles to work each day and use on trails every weekend which are mainly rocks. When I do this, I want to do it right the first time. Please let me know any recommendations you have for me. I am open to any advice or part recommendations.
The complete Artec kit cost $250. There are people that have done both truss/sleeves.
Honestly you may want to look into a takeoff front 44. Get it all done outside the jeep and save money. Gear the rear gears to match and swap it in when ready. Get your self some chrome-moly axle shafts for the rear. The most common issue is bent flanges. You may want to look into playing with the shock mounts to get a little more travel.
Hydro assist would be a batter option over the ATS w/ 37's +
10-26-2014 11:38 PM
CassiusClay It has finally come time for me to start putting together my lift. I have a 2014 JKU sport and have decided to run the 3.5 RK xfactor lift with 37x12.5x17 MTRs. I took your recommendation awhile back and purchased Rancho 9000s for this lift that have been waiting patiently in my garage. It will be getting regeared to 4.88 and Adams front and rear drive shafts.

With running 37s on the dana 30, I understand I will need to beef it up. Is it overkill to do Synergy inner sleeves with their truss kit? I will be doing the C gussets, LCA skids, and ball joints as well. Should I also do the rear truss? If so, should I get it with or without spring perches? Any other recommendations?

For steering correction, I plan on doing the Fox ATS stabilizer and Synergy steering correction kit. Any other recommendations?

This is my DD that I drive 15 miles to work each day and use on trails every weekend which are mainly rocks. When I do this, I want to do it right the first time. Please let me know any recommendations you have for me. I am open to any advice or part recommendations.
10-26-2014 06:56 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Khatton View Post
Is there a recommendation for bump stomps if running a BB?
There's no set length. Depends on weight/actual ride height, shock compressed length and tire size. Some kits provide stops to match lift height or close front and rear. TF uses 2.75 front and rear with their 2.5" lift.
10-26-2014 06:43 PM
Khatton Is there a recommendation for bump stomps if running a BB? Pretty sure I'm going to go RC bb for the time being instead of dropping 400 on tf springs. I don't think the kits come with bump stops and I hear those are quite necessary in order to keep those stock springs from sagging too much.
10-26-2014 05:09 PM
jp2611 Missed it first time around...Duratracs for the WIN IMO!!
10-26-2014 04:47 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611 View Post
FWIW IMO the "cupping thing" is not accurate. I find it hard to believe, that many people are rotating their tires and wheels regularly.....that being said we have 2 JK/ JKU and we do rotate with oil changes....every 5K. No cupping...but that would fall right inline to not have issues.....I am just amazed that it is something that NEEDS to be done for the vehicle?
Just proves you can't believe everything said on the internet. I'm willing to bet there's other issues going on with these jeeps. Worn parts, Bad shocks, improper toe in. Some jeeps including my own have rear toe, etc.
10-26-2014 04:41 PM
jp2611
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I heard the same concerning cupping. I rotate 3-5 and never had a issue.
I only ran the Duratracs and don't recall them being noisy at all. What you experienced was not normal for stock tires.
FWIW IMO the "cupping thing" is not accurate. I find it hard to believe, that many people are rotating their tires and wheels regularly.....that being said we have 2 JK/ JKU and we do rotate with oil changes....every 5K. No cupping...but that would fall right inline to not have issues.....I am just amazed that it is something that NEEDS to be done for the vehicle?
10-26-2014 04:37 PM
Em52
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK View Post
I do have the 4.10 gearing, so I'm good to go with 35's. Now I just need to finalize the tire brand and tread pattern to have the aggressive look without excessive noise on the highway. Thanks
Great to hear you have 4.10! From my research I noticed that GoodYear Duratracs and MT/R are very popular selections. Good luck in your decision selection, all part of the fun of upgrades and mods!

Em...
10-26-2014 04:35 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK View Post
I'm currently running Hankook Dynapro's AT's on the stock Rubicon wheels. I hated the stock tires and they were badly worn and cupped at 14k miles and noisy as hell at highway speeds. I was in the middle of a 2k road trip in the JKUR and had to wear ear plugs to avoid a constant head ache from the noise (front tire cupping was the culprit). I am told that cupping is to expected on any tire on a JK and that rotation every 4k miles is required. Does that sound true? Any input on 35 in tires that are aggressive enough looking but aren't terribly noisy for a pavement princess Jeep? I have been told to look at Goodyear Duratracs, Nitto Grapplers and a BF Goodrich AT tire. Anyone running any of these? Hows the ride and noise level?
I heard the same concerning cupping. I rotate 3-5 and never had a issue.
I only ran the Duratracs and don't recall them being noisy at all. What you experienced was not normal for stock tires.
10-26-2014 04:25 PM
BobK I'm currently running Hankook Dynapro's AT's on the stock Rubicon wheels. I hated the stock tires and they were badly worn and cupped at 14k miles and noisy as hell at highway speeds. I was in the middle of a 2k road trip in the JKUR and had to wear ear plugs to avoid a constant head ache from the noise (front tire cupping was the culprit).

I am told that cupping is to expected on any tire on a JK and that rotation every 4k miles is required. Does that sound true?

Any input on 35 in tires that are aggressive enough looking but aren't terribly noisy for a pavement princess Jeep? I have been told to look at Goodyear Duratracs, Nitto Grapplers and a BF Goodrich AT tire. Anyone running any of these? Hows the ride and noise level?
10-26-2014 11:19 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK View Post
I do have the 4.10 gearing, so I'm good to go with 35's. Now I just need to finalize the tire brand and tread pattern to have the aggressive look without excessive noise on the highway. Thanks
I'm on 37's and 4:10's work tuned.
She runs right around 2k RPMS at 70 in 6th.
What I did not like was crawl ratio w/ 35's. Off road will def benefit with a regear.
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