|09-26-2012 02:31 AM|
|dep214||i us in my other car and 4 wheeler.the 4 wheeler would be so hot it would mburn the indie of your legs. now with amsoil it it not near as hot and will not burn you.i use it also in my gas ine nothing but amsoil 5w-20 100% synthetic.i do know one thing it will make your engine run a great deal cooler.i have seen the difference in my chain saw also.it never shuts down from over heating.i use the amsoil bar and chain oil.i had rather pay a little more knowing my vehicles will run much better|
|12-03-2009 11:30 AM|
HERE'S WHAT I RECALL FROM CLASS
Oil viscosity is selected, in most cases, on two combined points:
The low viscosity oils (0-20) are perfect for cold weather, average driving use. Its thinner, so makes turning over the vehicle easier. Acts like 0 when it starts, acts like 20 when its warm.
If you're in Florida, it's a long hot summer, and you're racing your vehicle regularly, you'd want a 5, 10-40. The heavier viscosity is designed to offset the engine needs at high operating temps and prevent friction burn-off. Essentially, the heavier oil stays viscose longer at the high temps.
That's about all I remember from mechanics class.
If you're not racing it, you won't go wrong with lower SAE oils. Most people can't put the continuous use on the engine that would require the higher weights.
|12-03-2009 09:32 AM|
I had an employee that put 10w-40 oil into one of my Crown Vics; 10w-30 was the specified oil. He was an old-school wrench-head and did it out of "common sense" ---- but hadn't read the Ford TSB about the oil galleys...
The oil couldn't flow fast enough and backed up in the most vulnerable place, the oil filter, which exploded. This employee was also a neighbor of mine and the filter exploded in front of my house.
I don't know how critical the issue is with the 3.8. I just know that it doesn't cost me extra to run the 20, it's specified in the manual, and it makes sense to adhere to the specification...
|12-03-2009 09:23 AM|
|12-03-2009 06:52 AM|
If you're a real gear-head and have the shop & tools at your disposal, Ockgator, install a gauge and see what the oil pressure is with a 10w-30 vs a 5w-20.
I know some Ferrari guys that switched to 0w-10 after doing a similar exercise.
There is no "common sense" when it comes to applicable motor oil viscosity; there is only measurable data based upon flow dynamics and oil pressure. This isn't an emotional decision like tire choice and you can't base your choice upon criteria from other vehicles and/or engines...
|12-02-2009 10:21 PM|
|jk'n||I would say that it is a lot easier using the suggested weight oil rather than hiring a lawyer to go after Chrysler to correct their way of thinking about their suggestions about what to do for your engine is. I'm just speculating. Could be you'll never have a problem. While they are paying for my engine replacement I plan to follow what they say.|
|12-02-2009 10:05 PM|
Whoa there.. ease up a bit.
There USED to be a temp chart in owners manuals listing which weight oils to use during certain outside temps.
MOST manuals still say to change spark plugs at 30K miles like the old points ignition days.
If using a 10w oil seizes the engine I don't think I have a problem, Chrysler has a problem.
I use 10w-30 castrol synthetic (only cause we now carry Castrol.... free for me)
|12-01-2009 12:55 PM|
I use standard oil. It is changed every 6K according to the owner's manual. I will likely drive it until it rots out from under me, or is totaled (God forbid) in an accident. I have traded most of my past vehicles in between 100k and 175k miles. This one may out pace my others considerably. Most likely on one engine I hope. The resale value when I decide to get rid of it will not change regardless of what type of oil I put in it. Most people who drive a jeep just want the thing to run and owe them nothing when they are done with it. Following the owners manual recommendation with respect to oil changes will accomplish that. Why do more? I speak from experience owning various cars and now the jeep in 30+ years of driving. None of them got anything special regards to PM and none of them really owed me anything upon disposal of them. My other cars all got the longer interval recommended oil changes. It didn't subtract from the resale either. Take it from experience, follow the service recommendations carefully and don't listen to the dealer who will gladly over service your vehicles for you. I like to KISS with respect to the running of a vehicle. So...keep it simple and enjoy its features.
|11-30-2009 11:51 PM|
|Wyominer||I use Schaeffer's 5w-20, 5w-30 or 10W-30 in all my vehicles. The Jeep also has Schaeffer's in the trans, transfer & diffs. Schaeffer's is full synthetic, go to web site to find a local dealer. It costs more than regular oil, but is less expensive than Moble -1, Castrol Syn, etc. I NEVER use Fram filters, period! I use Wix filters.|
|11-30-2009 08:20 PM|
Yes I know Jeep says to run 5w-20 year round but common sense tells me not to, and since they didn't buy this particalar Jeep I win.
This common sense brought on by 30 years as an auto tech
|11-30-2009 06:50 PM|
It is true athat PAO stock does not have to come from petroleum and can actually be created from other sources, but so far no other sources are as cheap.
|11-30-2009 06:45 PM|
and the manual's recommendation is for regular oil. Of course here in the good ole USA, because everyone is so afraid to be sued, the recommendation for synthetic oil is the same as for dino oil.
Personally I use full synth (usually Mobil 1) and change ever 10K, I have done this on every car or truck I have had since the 80s and never had a problem. My son is still driving an old Civic I bought new in 89. It now has over a 150k on it.
|11-30-2009 02:45 PM|
|yj-genral||you might be better if you took a smokin hot girl WITH you and had her flirt with the cashier dudes now to find a smokin hot girl... other than my wife of course (she would never do something like that ;-))|
|11-30-2009 02:36 PM|
|Double Dawg||Maybe here in Savannah I might have more luck. But, it is an auto parts store. Maybe not.|
|11-30-2009 12:30 PM|
|11-30-2009 12:04 PM|
|11-30-2009 12:00 PM|
|yj-genral||there arent any pretty girls at the parts stores i go too here in cleveland, aka podunk TN|
|11-30-2009 11:58 AM|
I usually get the Mobil-1 filter for free when I buy oil; 6 quarts for the price of 5 and a free filter if I flirt with the sales girl...
|11-30-2009 11:46 AM|
Good info guys. Think maybe just a good oil not necessarily synthetic makes sense and just change it on a reasonable schedule and use good filters.
BTW - what filters are folks using? I live in a swamp, but we get lots of sand/dust.
|11-30-2009 09:39 AM|
the only reason to change the oil in your engine is because it gets dirty or breaks down, and the oil will get dirty long before it breaks down. thats why engines today can go longer between oil changes because they are designed better and dont allow the oil to get dirty near as quickly as they used to. just FYI. and you wont damage the engine with 30 but it was designed to run on 20... and i dont see any reason to run full synthetic IMO but there are arguements for it, i just dont worry about it that much, all oil now a days has additives to improve it...
though i wish full synthetic was cheaper to make because then we wouldnt have to rely on fossil fuels atleast for that one aspect...
|11-30-2009 08:09 AM|
Most of today's "synthetics" are actually just highly refined dino juice that meet the performance criteria of true synthetics and have earned the right (Mobil vs Castrol court decision) to be labeled "synthetic".
Chevron invented the process, btw.
Mobil-1, after years of being a true synthetic, finally caved-in to economic pressures and changed their devil's brew to a mixture of dino and synthetic stocks. They still offer pure syn in the bottles with gold caps.
Want a real synthetic?
Try Amsoil or Redline.
Want a hydrocracked dino pseudo-synthetic?
There's Mobil-1, Castrol, Royal Purple, and a product from every company on the planet.
Can your Jeep tell the difference?
Today's oils are very well designed to provide wear protection, suspend grit, dissipate heat, and prevent corrosion. Any oil that's engineered to be a certified as a 5w-20 will certainly protect your Wrangler for 6000 miles under almost any North American condition.
|11-30-2009 08:06 AM|
|xxxxxxxxdavem||i change my oil at 5000 running castrol full synthetic and a fram filter. my wifes rubi is a daily driver and a street ride. the most dirt it sees is an occasional dirt road at camp. same goes for my 4runner .|
|11-30-2009 07:59 AM|
OK. I'm coming up on my first 3,000 mile oil change. I have to decide which way to go. Full syn, blend or traditional? What is the big advantage one way or the other. Big price differential to go synthetic. Any big difference between the synthetics? I hear lots of folks mention Mobil 1, but what about some of the others like Castrol?
I fully expect to get lots of opinions, just looking for a good reason to use the high $$$ oils versus the more traditional oil. Seems like you can pay for a lot of oil changes going with a traditional oil.
|11-30-2009 07:27 AM|
Exxon/Mobil, Shell, Chevron --- their oil engineers all train in my lab. The 3.8 was designed to achieve correct flow dynamics and oil pressure with 5w-20. It's not a '69 396 Chevy engine; it doesn't need help from viscosity to close sloppy tolerances...
|11-29-2009 10:11 PM|
|superdavis78||When I use Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter, I will change it somewhere around 5k miles...the old oil always still looks and smells good. But if I use Mobil 5000 I change it at 3k miles. Mobil 1 is some good stuff, but a bit pricey!!!|
|11-29-2009 08:52 PM|
|chalex807||You know it says 5W-20 right on the oil filler cap. I'm about to do my 3rd oil change. I've been doing the standard 3000 mile oil changes. Anyone else go for longer?|
|11-29-2009 08:17 PM|
|11-29-2009 06:53 PM|
|11-29-2009 05:48 PM|
|11-29-2009 04:08 PM|
The engineering that goes into today's oil is incredible. One of the GC/MS units that Exxon/Mobil uses is over a quarter million dollars.
It's just a runnier viscosity; it flows faster.
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