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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-06-2007 08:07 AM
erickpl I think that 234 price included slightly longer shocks along with the spacers. That would help prevent reaching the end of travel on those stock shocks after adding the 2" spacers.
02-05-2007 09:27 PM
Absolute Offroad First off...234.00 for a Budget Boost??? The spacers would cost about 15-20 bucks each. You dont need the "full" Budget boost (with shocks and disconnects) You are gonna have it on the street for 98% of the time, so the other 2% you will be having too much fun to worry about it. The motor mount kit is about 80-100 bucks, or you could use the JKS Motor mount spacer for the same effect for about 50 bucks, and keeping your rubber motor mounts. There are no special toos needed other than basic hand tools and a little bit of knowledge. As for the least amount of stress on the Jeep, you are keeping almost all stock parts!!! Thats the good thing of this system set up, and thats why I do so many for the dealers. All you would have to do is get it aligned after the budget boost (and I dont mean center the wheel, I mean get it aligned). As for the spare tire, I would change it to the same size you have, just for safety and looks. It LOOKS like you are cheap if you have 33's and a stock spare....


Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
02-05-2007 10:35 AM
erickpl
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94redwrangler View Post
hey just wondering where did you get your rear cornor gaurds. i really like them with the bar around them. thanks

Toys by Troy side sliders and corner guards. Got them from www.4x4groupbuy.com.
02-05-2007 08:58 AM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Also stumbled across a full TJ trailblazer kit which sounds nice. Opinions on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/tjtrailblazer.html
this kit looks nice minus the shocks. but if your gonna spend that much i'd also do some research on the other kits like the OME kit from DPG.
02-05-2007 08:57 AM
mrbigjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
you can do either one. for your use (not much offroading) i would definitely go the BB+1"BL/1"MML because it will look great and perform nicely on the road along with it being super cheap. you don't need the flex that the RE gives. i say if your just doing mild offroading then the BB+BL/MML will work fine and it will look about the same as RE...minus the spring color and the RE gives a little more height.

you can install it yourself and i see no need to go RE when this setup clears it fine for cheap and your not doing a lot of offroading. to keep a good ride though you should get some good shocks...so i recommend buying the spacers seperately so that you can pick your shocks. i'd buy the 2.25" spacers from 4 wheel customs (also comes with bumpstop extensions) and then i'd buy some OME shocks.
02-05-2007 08:05 AM
RUBICONVICT
Trailblazer lift

Also stumbled across a full TJ trailblazer kit which sounds nice. Opinions on this?

http://www.rocky-road.com/tjtrailblazer.html
02-05-2007 07:41 AM
inline6 i went the OME HD/LJ route. have the BL and BMML stuff ready to go on, but not now.

then put 285/75/16 Toyo MTs on

washers on the steering stops to control some rub until the bl

02-05-2007 06:07 AM
RUBICONVICT
Which option?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute Offroad View Post
This sounds like the same request I get from my local dealer that I do lifts for. I use a 2" Budget boost, 1" Motor mount lift and a 1" body lift. It will clear 33's and work pretty good off road also. Good points are the ride does not change at all (you keep stock shocks and springs) and the driveshaft does not vibe (hence the 1" Motor mount lift) No need for sway bar disconnects unless you want them. No need for a t-case drop either. I install about 3-4 of these set ups a month for a local dealer who "Does not want any problems" I have had none yet... Stay with the 33" tire and you wont have to re-gear either....
Ok, I WAS leaning towards a RE 3.5" Standard lift with 285's (33 x 10.5). I like what I hear about RE and the silver springs would actually match perfectly. The RE lift would run me about $570. If I went with your option I am finding that the 2" budget boost would run about $234, the 1" motor mount lift about $50, and the 1" body lift about $120. This would save me about $165. Would I be able to install this myself? Any special tools needed?

Which would be the "better" option. Which would look best and be less stress on the Jeep? Also, I was thinking about keeping the unused spare on the back (31") instead of upgrading to 33" in order to save a couple hundred beans. Any opinions on this?
02-04-2007 11:26 PM
94redwrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by erickpl View Post
x2 what Andy said.

I bought the basic kit from DPG for my OME lift, but have since added the JKS Body and motor lift, JKS adjustable trackbars as well, so basically have the ultimate kit (I just did it a bit at a time) and am really only missing the adjustable control arms to have the super ultimate kit.

My onroad ride is EXCELLENT, and was one of my primary goals when doing my lift/upgrade. That it works great offroad is a great bonus! JKS and OME are excellent (OME is brought to this country by ARB, as is IPF lighting) and I've been extremely happy with the results.

That body lift and motor lift also set you up great for a belly up, if you choose to go THAT route down the road/trail.

Andy knows Dirk a LOT better than me, but as a customer, I have been EXTREMELY satisfied with any dealings with them.

I've heard great things about Northridge and their pricing is pretty good, but DPG is closer, so shipping is usually a REALLY good deal, and my wife is from Wichita, where he is based, so I support him.

One thing to keep in mind, if you are going to go to 35's, your Jeep will feel a serious power loss, even on a Rubicon. Regearing becomes an issue at that point and for the 4.0 engine, 4.56 is recommended for 33's and 4.88 for 35's. That can be a pricey upgrade if you can't do the differential regearing yourself. Figure about 1000 for that.

33's would be bearable at the stock 4.10's on your Rubicon, but you'd still feel a power hit. 33's, to me, are a great all around size. Big enough to look nice and aggressive and capable offroad, but not so big as to be a PITA to get in and out of the Jeep. If this is a daily driven Jeep, that is something to consider.

Here's my rig built with a LOT of DPG purchases.







In suspension lifts, you will get what you pay for. JKS/OME is not a cheap solution, but it is probably one of, if not the best solution out there.
hey just wondering where did you get your rear cornor gaurds. i really like them with the bar around them. thanks
02-04-2007 10:10 PM
Rockodile
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiTJ View Post
I was not implying that you were wrong about your fuel economy, actually quite the opposite, as I know many people with >33's getting above 14 mpg. At stock I find I get 12 consistently, but I know that many get much better. GPS and tank volume are the best method for an accurate accounting of fuel economy, especially with our electronic odomoters and speedometers which it appeared that was what you were doing.

-Chuck
I was not implying that you were implying. But concidering that my stats are based on 1500-2K miles, it might be a good idea to check it out again. Instead I gave numbers that might not be correct, maybe I should have done a bit more research.

It is all good!!! No harm No foul in my book!!

Now that we have solved that lets get back to the Convict's situation as we are hijacking his thread.


By the way Convict.....I would second the comment to not touch an OME kit, based on my exp. and others that their springs are really soft....maybe too soft??
02-04-2007 09:24 PM
RedRubiTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockodile View Post
I was never to worried about it as it isn't a DD and the GPS has kept me from getting pulled over for speed. But spewing bs numbers is not a good thing to do even if it doesn't matter. The above mention of the gear was the first I had heard of, I had heard all the fellers over at ROF complaining about the stealership and recalibration but really wasn't paying all that much attention (foolish). My question would be if I can get to that part of the TCM with a Modis or is it only accessable with the manufacturers scan tool equipment? Once again I am not overly concerned, the mileage on the computer doesn't matter to me nor does speedo accuracy, as I will keep using my GPS. But it would be nice to be able to go and figure out what kind of mileage I am really getting as 14 MPG's is sounding false to you guys. I really don't have anyone with a similar set up to compare notes with so I was just going with most likely bad input data which brought bad output data into my post thus making me look like an dumbarse. :o

EDIT: Not that I have ever had a hard time looking like a dumbarse!!
I was not implying that you were wrong about your fuel economy, actually quite the opposite, as I know many people with >33's getting above 14 mpg. At stock I find I get 12 consistently, but I know that many get much better. GPS and tank volume are the best method for an accurate accounting of fuel economy, especially with our electronic odomoters and speedometers which it appeared that was what you were doing.

-Chuck
02-04-2007 04:49 PM
Absolute Offroad Guess where Jack (1BLKJP) Hangs out all of the time????




Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BLKJP View Post
Installing a lift where you are not changing the control arms is a snap. All you need is some jack stands a couple floor jacks and basic hand tools. Air tools would be much nicer of course.

I agree with Quadratec. If you are just trying lift your jeep for on road appeal then you really can do it pretty cheaply. In fact I would say to clear 33's. You could do a 2" coil spacer lift and a 1 or 1.25" body lift and you'd only be out about 400 - 500 bucks.

Boys stop trying to sell the guy stuff he doesn't need already. You know he doesn't need that Ultimate kit Andy. He only needs 3 quick inches of lift to get him enough to clear 33's for show not for wheelin.

Stock Rubicon wheels are already 8" wide so you can run the metric version of 33's on there without having to replace them. I'm thinking it's the 305 version, but someone can tell me if I'm wrong on that.
02-04-2007 04:46 PM
Absolute Offroad This sounds like the same request I get from my local dealer that I do lifts for. I use a 2" Budget boost, 1" Motor mount lift and a 1" body lift. It will clear 33's and work pretty good off road also. Good points are the ride does not change at all (you keep stock shocks and springs) and the driveshaft does not vibe (hence the 1" Motor mount lift) No need for sway bar disconnects unless you want them. No need for a t-case drop either. I install about 3-4 of these set ups a month for a local dealer who "Does not want any problems" I have had none yet... Stay with the 33" tire and you wont have to re-gear either....




Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok.....so I recently bought a 2003 Rubicon (everything is factory). What I really want is a Lift and about 33-35 inch tires. This is my only vehicle and I do not go off-road. Since I am now due for new tires, I figured it would be the best time to make a change if I was going to. I do not know much about lifts and tires and everyone on here seems to be really helpful. Can anyone suggest what lift/tires I should get? I would like to keep it as cheap as possible. Any advice given will be much appreciated! Thanks!
02-04-2007 04:24 PM
Rawkon i average 14 to 16 with 33s and 3.73s fresh oil, 89 octane, 3 speed auto, E fan, egg on the gas pedal. your geared right for your tire size so it wouldnt suprise me your getting 14

I would pick RE over OME any day, I get tons of articulation and a very nice ride on road. definatly better then stock on road.

my re3.5 superflex kits\ came out to about 4.5 inches. and hasnt sagged yet. (kit has been on for 4 months)

im running trxus mts and they have been awsome on and off the road.



trail pic

02-04-2007 03:44 PM
Rockodile
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiTJ View Post
I believe you said earlier that you have a Rubi. Rubi's don't have speedo gears, they require a electronic speedometer calibrator such as superlift's. According to many that have tried having their Rubi reprogrammed for different tires and gears, the dealer programming "doesn't take" either.

-Chuck
I was never to worried about it as it isn't a DD and the GPS has kept me from getting pulled over for speed. But spewing bs numbers is not a good thing to do even if it doesn't matter. The above mention of the gear was the first I had heard of, I had heard all the fellers over at ROF complaining about the stealership and recalibration but really wasn't paying all that much attention (foolish). My question would be if I can get to that part of the TCM with a Modis or is it only accessable with the manufacturers scan tool equipment? Once again I am not overly concerned, the mileage on the computer doesn't matter to me nor does speedo accuracy, as I will keep using my GPS. But it would be nice to be able to go and figure out what kind of mileage I am really getting as 14 MPG's is sounding false to you guys. I really don't have anyone with a similar set up to compare notes with so I was just going with most likely bad input data which brought bad output data into my post thus making me look like an dumbarse. :o

EDIT: Not that I have ever had a hard time looking like a dumbarse!!
02-04-2007 02:44 PM
RedRubiTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockodile View Post
Nope I have been using a GPS which could very well be my problem. Figured it might actually be more accurate then the changing the gear as they only have to be within 10%. Well back to the drawing board, never hurts to be humbled by my own stupidity!! :o
I believe you said earlier that you have a Rubi. Rubi's don't have speedo gears, they require a electronic speedometer calibrator such as superlift's. According to many that have tried having their Rubi reprogrammed for different tires and gears, the dealer programming "doesn't take" either.

-Chuck
02-04-2007 02:33 PM
Rockodile
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Jeepn View Post
That is nice.. I get about 12 with 35's and 4.56's.. you did change the t-case speedo gear right?

Nope I have been using a GPS which could very well be my problem. Figured it might actually be more accurate then the changing the gear as they only have to be within 10%. Well back to the drawing board, never hurts to be humbled by my own stupidity!! :o
02-04-2007 09:32 AM
4Jeepn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockodile View Post
I am kinda at a lose myself. I didn't get 14 when I was bone stock????
That is nice.. I get about 12 with 35's and 4.56's.. you did change the t-case speedo gear right?
02-04-2007 03:35 AM
Rockodile
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
14mpg with 37's and 5.13's is impressive

I am kinda at a lose myself. I didn't get 14 when I was bone stock???? But I did my calcs with a machine so I am pretty sure the math is correct. We shall see I only have about 1500 miles on it since the jump to 37's in August. Good miles though!! Got two and a half trips through the Rubicon and my first time into Barrett!
02-03-2007 11:17 PM
Johna56 Please post up pix when your done - I'd also like to get 305's in (on moabs), but need to drop about $1400 to regear from 3.07 to 4.56 so I am looking for a less expensive way to get 3-3.5" extra.
02-03-2007 11:15 PM
mrbigjeep 14mpg with 37's and 5.13's is impressive
02-03-2007 07:43 AM
Rockodile Here goes, we are going from stock to 37's and I will eexplain every step. Note: I could not find any pics with the 285's so all you get is 245's(33 x 10.5 r16, 305's (33 x 12.5 r16), 33x 12.5" r15 and 37 x 12.5" r15.

Bone stock







First jump was to a BBL with an Nth TT, Nth HD stock replacement LCA's and a set of their adjustable UCA's. In addition I got a Tom Woods CV driveshaft. This put the jeep at about 2" above stock. This set up was on 285's no photos as that lasted about a month, I had an option on a used set of 305's on moabs and a set of OME 3" springs so I grabbed em and sold my rims with the 285's. Then promptly headed for the Rubicon Trail.





The set up worked OK but was missing the handling I wanted so I decided to save up and get the RE LA kit and a set of steelie 15" rims with some 33 x 12.5 15's on em.







Then I was mulling over 35 or 37....and finaly I came to terms with 37's and saved a step IMHO. anyway that is where I am at. Hope this helps a bit and feel free to ask any questions you want to me as I can probaly give you the straight scoop. I am a mechanic and I might ad a damned good one!!







Have a great one!!
02-02-2007 06:23 PM
RUBICONVICT Thanks Rockodile.....What kind of lift did you have when you were running the 33 x 10.5"? Do you have any pictures? I'd really like to see what it looks like with the different size tires/lifts since you have the same year and model.
02-02-2007 04:07 PM
Rockodile
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
Ok, so a 4" suspension lift won't hurt the Jeep if I'm not going off road? And if I went from the factory tires (31") to 33" or 35" would I need to get new wheels also, or would my factory wheels work? I am worried about spending this money and regretting it since it is my everyday vehicle. Will gas mileage be way worse?
If you have the stock wheels on they are a 16" wheel. I have same year and model as you. I had a set of 285 75 r16 = 33 x 10.5" with no rub issue. I then had a set of 305 70 r16 = 33 x 12.5" and they rubbed but by putting 3 washers behind each steering stop I was able to keep it from rubbing at the expense of a larger turning radius. Only an issue on the trail. Both of them were on the stock Moab wheels that come on Rubi's. There is also a 315 75 r16 which is a 35 x 12.5" that fits the stock wheels. All the above have been Goodyear MTR's which I like. In fact I liked em so much that I am running a set 37 x 12.5 15" MTR's now.

Yes your gas mileage will get worse, but if you stay with the 285 75 r 16 you are not going any wider then what you are currently running. I am assuming you have the stock 245 75 r 16's on now? Anyway as you go wider and taller you will see reduced mileage. My thinking is that if you don't do both you might have a slim advantage over a 12.5" wide tire. I averaged between 10-12 on all forms of 33's I had. Now on the 37's I regeared to 513's and I got my overdrive back as well as improved mileage!!!! I am getting a wopping 14MPG's now!!!! ROFLMAO

Good luck with your lift and such!
02-02-2007 04:00 PM
RUBICONVICT Thats great news.....thanks a lot. So if I get 5 new 33" tires and around a 3" lift that I can install myself I can keep it around $1500. Thanks for the help. Should be a while but I'll get some pics up as soon as its done.
02-02-2007 03:38 PM
erickpl Since his jeep is for the street mainly, why not recommend something that rides great on the street?

I installed my OME, body lift, motor lift... all of it by myself. The only tool I used that might be 'specialty' is a spring compressor I rented for $40.00 from Autozone (and got the $$ back after returning it). Not always required, but it sure made it easier to get them in there. I did the suspension lift in about 4 or 5 hours, with a break for lunch, and taking my time (it was a hot summer day - even in the garage!)
02-02-2007 03:35 PM
MR.CLIFFORD
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BLKJP View Post
Installing a lift where you are not changing the control arms is a snap. All you need is some jack stands a couple floor jacks and basic hand tools. Air tools would be much nicer of course.

I agree with Quadratec. If you are just trying lift your jeep for on road appeal then you really can do it pretty cheaply. In fact I would say to clear 33's. You could do a 2" coil spacer lift and a 1 or 1.25" body lift and you'd only be out about 400 - 500 bucks.

Boys stop trying to sell the guy stuff he doesn't need already. You know he doesn't need that Ultimate kit Andy. He only needs 3 quick inches of lift to get him enough to clear 33's for show not for wheelin.

Stock Rubicon wheels are already 8" wide so you can run the metric version of 33's on there without having to replace them. I'm thinking it's the 305 version, but someone can tell me if I'm wrong on that.
your version of what you "need" might be different from others. In my book, there is no quick 3" lift.
02-02-2007 03:27 PM
1BLKJP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBICONVICT View Post
OK, so has anyone installed one of these (OME or RE lift)themselves? Do you need special tools or anything? It would save me hundreds if I could do it on my own.
Installing a lift where you are not changing the control arms is a snap. All you need is some jack stands a couple floor jacks and basic hand tools. Air tools would be much nicer of course.

I agree with Quadratec. If you are just trying lift your jeep for on road appeal then you really can do it pretty cheaply. In fact I would say to clear 33's. You could do a 2" coil spacer lift and a 1 or 1.25" body lift and you'd only be out about 400 - 500 bucks.

Boys stop trying to sell the guy stuff he doesn't need already. You know he doesn't need that Ultimate kit Andy. He only needs 3 quick inches of lift to get him enough to clear 33's for show not for wheelin.

Stock Rubicon wheels are already 8" wide so you can run the metric version of 33's on there without having to replace them. I'm thinking it's the 305 version, but someone can tell me if I'm wrong on that.
02-02-2007 03:14 PM
RUBICONVICT OK, so has anyone installed one of these (OME or RE lift)themselves? Do you need special tools or anything? It would save me hundreds if I could do it on my own.
02-02-2007 01:57 PM
binaryking You must live near me then if you're close to quadratec. I live in Elverson, which is about 10 mins down the road from Downingtown.

Quadratec can be over priced on some items, but not having to pay shipping and being able to pick up your merchandise the same day, usually, does make up for it. If I didn't live so close, I would probably never use them.
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