|10-29-2013 11:23 PM|
|wa_troop||Can I go straight to the shop and buy them or do I have to order and wait/pay for shipping?|
|10-29-2013 02:14 PM|
|Philmycrackin||Do you guys still sell the fenders without a flare like the one Jerry installed at the beginning of this thread?|
|10-29-2013 11:38 AM|
|08-08-2013 05:38 AM|
|HarryJeepGuy||Sweet! I've been waiting a long time for these to come out. Ironically I was just on the MCE site yesterday checking up. Any more pics than whats on the site, maybe a side view? Just to let you know, your link in the above post isnt working.|
|08-07-2013 10:59 AM|
TJ REAR PRE-SALE! 3", 4.5", 6"
MCE Modern Classic Enterprises, LLC
-Made in the USA-
Modern Classic Enterprises
MCE – Flexible Fenders
|07-14-2013 02:59 AM|
|oaky1717||so i know this isn't suppose to be on this thread but if anyone is willing to sell me your first generation mce tj fenders i would be willing to pay you $180 i know that its more than the original price but i really want them|
|05-08-2013 08:00 PM|
Just linked this to the MCE FB page
|01-11-2013 07:24 PM|
|01-11-2013 05:44 PM|
|01-11-2013 02:38 PM|
|01-10-2013 09:29 PM|
|Mulvihill64||How big could I go with tires if I did this mod. I have a 2" bb|
|01-07-2013 07:34 PM|
Sorry about them If the pic is sideways
|01-07-2013 07:29 PM|
|01-07-2013 04:12 PM|
|01-07-2013 02:56 PM|
|jstone326||I also had one of my hood latch bolts spin when I tried to take it off. What I did was use a cut off wheel on either side of the rubber part to get access to the top of the bolt. Then I used the grinder to cut a notch into the top of the bolt, but a big flathead screwdriver in and held it with vice grips. I was then able to back the nut off. Then I reinstalled the latch with a bolt through the rubber part and ordered a new latch online. I had my latch like that, with the bolt, for about a week without a problem before I installed the new latch.|
|01-07-2013 02:33 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||When you cut the fender sheet metal around the old hood latch mounting holes, the latches can move over a tad without the sheet metal there to support them. Move the hood latch bracket underneath the fender over a tad to where it needs to be & drill/elongate the holes in the sheet metal itself to move the latch over enough to where it matches the hood half of the latch.|
|01-07-2013 02:20 PM|
Well, I got mine on this weekend and I love them! A few suggestions/thoughts for anyone doing this (sorry if they have already been posted):
1.) Having a couple of different cutting tools on hand would be helpful. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel and it worked great except for the area towards the front. There is some detailed cutting there that a Dremel would have been perfect for (I think I saw that mentioned upthread, but it bears repeating). It's doable with just a grinder, but it was a lot more work and took some creative cutting of the old fender.
2.) Start putting PB Blaster on the hood latches and grill bolts several days ahead of time. I had to drive an hour each way to get new hood latches because mine just spun. I also broke one bolt on each side of the grill. Left side, no big deal as it was the bottom bolt and isn't used anymore. Right side- of course it had to be the top bolt which means I can't install the grill bracket until I can drill it out. Not entirely sure why the grill brackets are needed in the first place- the right side doesn't seem to be any weaker or different shape than the left even without it. I'll drill out the broken bolt and put it on eventually though (I hate trying to remove broken bolts ).
3.) If you have rocker armor that goes wheel well to wheel well, see a couple of posts up. Unless you want to hack that up (I didn't), you'll have to make a cutout in the fenders and probably drill a hole in the armor to accommodate the lower bracket. Not a big deal at all.
4.) For some reason when I got done, my right side hood latch didn't match up. I have no earthly idea how that happened (or even could have happened) because everything else lines up fine. I was able to get it close enough that I can just bend the lower latch into it's channel and get it to latch (see pics). Has anyone else encountered this? Any ideas?
Overall, not too bad. It took me about a full day, but I work slow and had a couple of setbacks. So far I really like them! I had some trail damage to my right front fender, so I'm glad to have a clean looking Jeep again! Still waiting on the parking lamps that are on backorder, but here it is so far:
Hood latch issue:
|01-07-2013 01:50 AM|
|01-04-2013 07:43 PM|
Thanks for the pics Dave! I've been searching around for direct side-view pics all afternoon to no avail, so that's a big help. It looks like that's what I'll have to do. No big deal, I just like to have it all planned out. I'll be tackling it sometime this weekend.
|01-04-2013 07:33 PM|
One good thing when I installed my fenders after the rockers, they did not line up with them very good the way they hang. I just bent them back to match the rocker edge before I drilled the hole.
Maybe you will get lucky and they will line up with one of the holes on the WW to WW rockers. ??
|01-04-2013 05:17 PM|
|Beer30||Did you guys who have the flared version and rocker armor that goes from wheel well to wheel well have to do anything special to the fenders? I can't really tell from the pics and would like to know what I'm up against before I start this. I have Rockmen rocker armor. It looks as though I may have to cut a notch in the fenders to accommodate the armor, then drill through the armor to mount the lower bracket?|
|01-04-2013 02:19 PM|
|01-04-2013 02:18 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||That looks like an LED light in the second photo. I think that is probably Mike's at MCE's TJ, PM him and ask him. He's very responsive, he'll answer any questions about them you might have.|
|01-04-2013 02:15 PM|
|01-04-2013 02:09 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||The hole size is back on page one, but it's 3 1/8". I just eyeballed the location but have it at least close to what is in the photos so everything clears.|
|01-04-2013 02:00 PM|
How did you measure and mark for the hole? And what size hole do you need to cut? I gotta see if I have the right size hole saw
|01-04-2013 01:22 PM|
|01-04-2013 01:16 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||The first time I installed those JK turn signals on my previous TJ, I cut & spliced in new wiring. Then when installing them on my current Jeep, I figured out I didn't have to do that... it was like a wonderful thing to make that discovery.|
|01-04-2013 01:07 PM|
|01-04-2013 01:01 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||One thing to know about converting to the JK front turn signals...you don't have to cut the bulb connector off the harness to pass it into the area behind the hole cut for the new JK turn signals. The original TJ bulb connector can be fished into that area & then connected without needing to splice any wires. The OE TJ turn signal bulb housing twist-locks into the JK turn signal housing without modification.|
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|