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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-10-2012 04:19 PM
jk'n From what I understand, there are two of these bushings. I am familiar with the one underneath the jeep. That one is pictured in photos above. It is difficult to get to because it is tucked up above the exhaust and the skid plate. You are just barely able to see it from under the jeep. If the exhaust is hot, I don't recommend trying to get to it. It is doable with no special tools. You shouldn't need to drop the skid plate.

The one above I am told is under the console. Thus the reason they had to dismantle the console. If it was under factory warranty within 36,000 miles or three years, there should be no charge for the repair. If it is under the extended warranty, anything you bring it in for will cost 100.00 or whatever your co-pay amount is. That has been my experience on cost of repairs. If it is out of warranty, do it yourself, or have a repair shop do it that you trust. I wouldn't bring it to the dealer outside of warranty.
07-10-2012 09:41 AM
jeffjquinn Little disappointed with the World Jeep dealer in Shrewsbury, NJ. While they did fix it for me and quickly, they nailed me for $95 out the door. He admitted it was a $2 part but told me they had to take the center console out to get to the broken clip. So $87 in labor and they failed to put the console back together, though I was able to finish it myself. Ironically they just called to follow-up as I am writing this post.

Can anyone explain to me (send pix!?) how to access the part from underneath so I can fix this 'on the fly' should it happen again? Have no problem carrying a socket set if I have to drop the skid plate.

Thanks everyone for all your posts,

FatJack
Red Bank, New Jersey
07-10-2012 08:09 AM
roger456
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
Have you thought of using a "Jesus" clip? (an E clip).
Yes, I had one, but it fell on the ground and I was not able to retrieve it, so I used the next best thing. But, It would work very well with an E clip also in my opinion. It's just that even with the skid plate removed, access is not that good, so it's difficult to put in place.
07-09-2012 06:17 PM
jk'n
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger456 View Post
No I did not drill a hole through it since I was not able to unscrew the bolt holding the arm (I think it is red-locktited by the factory) because I did not have the leverage needed for it, and I did not wanted to break it and open a brand new can of worms...

So, I wrapped the cotter pin around it. There's a little groove all around the shaft, so by opening the cotter pin and wrapping it around, it is pretty sturdy. Other people did that and reported it works and stays there, this is why I did it too.

Hope this helps!
Have you thought of using a "Jesus" clip? (an E clip).
07-09-2012 12:26 PM
SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
For the carter pin did you drill a hole through the pin? Seems logical to do that or else the pin could slip out of the groove. I like the fix. It seems simple. That is what most of us look for in situations like this one. I still don't understand the whole plastic weak bushing thing. I've heard that in an accident, it is designed to break away and not be accidentally shifted into a different mode. Seems plausible.
Not an automotive engineer, but i believe the plastic bushing does 2 things: by design it snaps onto the lever thus holding the cable onto the lever and protects the plastic head on the end of the cable from internal wear. The wear takes place on the bushing and not the cable itself.
07-09-2012 12:02 PM
roger456
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
For the carter pin did you drill a hole through the pin? Seems logical to do that or else the pin could slip out of the groove. I like the fix. It seems simple. That is what most of us look for in situations like this one. I still don't understand the whole plastic weak bushing thing. I've heard that in an accident, it is designed to break away and not be accidentally shifted into a different mode. Seems plausible.
No I did not drill a hole through it since I was not able to unscrew the bolt holding the arm (I think it is red-locktited by the factory) because I did not have the leverage needed for it, and I did not wanted to break it and open a brand new can of worms...

So, I wrapped the cotter pin around it. There's a little groove all around the shaft, so by opening the cotter pin and wrapping it around, it is pretty sturdy. Other people did that and reported it works and stays there, this is why I did it too.

Hope this helps!
07-09-2012 11:04 AM
jk'n For the carter pin did you drill a hole through the pin? Seems logical to do that or else the pin could slip out of the groove. I like the fix. It seems simple. That is what most of us look for in situations like this one. I still don't understand the whole plastic weak bushing thing. I've heard that in an accident, it is designed to break away and not be accidentally shifted into a different mode. Seems plausible.
07-09-2012 10:13 AM
roger456 I did it the redneck way. Is solid since!

I used a gutter nail "cover" (the aluminum tube around the nail)


Then I placed it on the lever :


And finally added a cotter pin wrapped around the lever.



I used the lever quite extensively (2H, 4H, and 4L) and it did not fail me yet. I try to be gentle with it though
07-09-2012 07:09 AM
jeffjquinn Towed a pontoon boat out of the water this past weekend using the 4L to be careful. As I had done in the past I was gingerly trying to roll it and shift the TC to 2H and sure as could be, the handle popped loose in my hand. After a few minutes I was able to push it indoors (since my doors and windows were out and I was fr from home). Then I checked this forum for ideas. Went back the next day and still couldn't find the problem from underneath, perhaps I should have pulled off the skidplate? Nonetheless, was able to get a flatbed to tow it to the dealer - with the extended warranty and 39k miles on my 2009 Sahara Unlimited, I'm hoping I'll get the 'good news' call that it's covered under warranty. Going to ask the boys there to show me how to acces and throw some extra pieces and perhaps an 18mm socket in the GB for the next time.

Stay tuned,
FatJack, NJ
05-21-2012 03:40 PM
jeffk42 Just wanted to jump in here and add my thanks for getting this worked out. Found myself temporarily stranded on the trail this past weekend, but thanks to some friends we got it back into 2wd and I got home. Dealership replaced the piece today and I picked up two more for 20 cents each before I left.
07-17-2011 05:53 PM
thenorsepole
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyinJeeps View Post
Thanks man, I've been looking hard for a cargo net like that because my dog gets in and out through the back and all the other cargo nets a PITA to open and close and get him in and out. Is it as easy to open the swing gate and unzip the back as it looks in the pictures?
It connects the same as the soft top back window. It attaches to the tail gate bar so you unzip, pull the bar and flip it up.

I posted this on a another thread, but here ya go on what I found with the C.res:

Pro's
1) Zipper to access cargo from the back
2) Wraps around the roll cage which leaves more room in the back

Cons
1) Need to leave the door surrounds on as it tucks into them like the soft-top windows
2) Made of soft-top material NOT cargo netting
3) looks OK, but sits funny on the roll bars so it seems kind of crooked
4) straps securing it to the sound bar are kind of cheesy and don't cinch down real well
5) sides attach to the "tub channel" like the soft-top windows do so that the use of a soft-top is almost un-doable
6) Due to #5 - can't bring the soft top with you in case of pop-up showers. Solved by a bikini top or something like, but I don't have one, only the dirty dog shade.
07-17-2011 05:22 PM
FlyinJeeps
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenorsepole View Post
Smittybuilt C.Res. It's OK, but Safari Straps will replace it after a while.
Thanks man, I've been looking hard for a cargo net like that because my dog gets in and out through the back and all the other cargo nets a PITA to open and close and get him in and out. Is it as easy to open the swing gate and unzip the back as it looks in the pictures?
07-17-2011 05:03 PM
thenorsepole
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyinJeeps View Post
Hey what kind of straps are those on your jeep in ur display pic?
Smittybuilt C.Res. It's OK, but Safari Straps will replace it after a while.
07-17-2011 03:11 PM
FlyinJeeps
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenorsepole View Post
Thanks jk'n. I'll be picking up a few spares at the dealer tomorrow.

I may need to get the J8 kit to have more room for all the spare parts I need to carry.

Hey what kind of straps are those on your jeep in ur display pic?
07-17-2011 02:45 PM
AEsco48 I looked at it and the plan is to get a couple replacement bushings and then go ahead and try and modify it to put a washer and cotter pin on the end... We will see...
07-17-2011 02:41 PM
thenorsepole Thanks jk'n. I'll be picking up a few spares at the dealer tomorrow.

I may need to get the J8 kit to have more room for all the spare parts I need to carry.
07-17-2011 12:22 PM
themoneypit you got to be slow rolling, about 2-5 mph, and it goes in smooth. doesn't like it if your stopped.
07-17-2011 10:30 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbreeze View Post
What year did they start with this trouble prone plastic piece?

linkage has been crap on wranglers since for ever. There is a TSB out for all TJs to replace all bushings in ours because they wear out. I would have thought that the JK would be better designed. Glad your gettin it all figured out jk!
07-17-2011 10:26 AM
AEsco48
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
Cut end off new bushing/1" washer/hitchpin-or

Buy Advance Adapters JK xfer case shift cable-or

Be gentle

JIMBO
I am going to get under there and take a look at doing the cut end off,washer, e clip... Problem is I have no idea where I would get a clip in Egypt...
07-17-2011 10:26 AM
JIMBOX Internet !-or


Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmEC View Post
Where is this piece at?
Advance Adapters
4320 Aerotech Ctr way
Paso Robles Ca 93446
1-800-350-2223

JIMBO
07-17-2011 10:14 AM
JimmEC Where is this piece at?
07-17-2011 10:02 AM
JIMBOX Cut end off new bushing/1" washer/hitchpin-or

Buy Advance Adapters JK xfer case shift cable-or

Be gentle

JIMBO
07-17-2011 09:58 AM
AEsco48 https://picasaweb.google.com/riknapo...34350805419282
Be Warned!!! - Page 2 - Jeep Forum
07-17-2011 09:55 AM
JimmEC I read about this in all the other threads. Could someone post a picture of where this piece is and possibly some instructions for a field repair? Greatly appreciated
07-17-2011 09:39 AM
AEsco48 I agree, but some aftermarket company should be selling these bushings for $25 (at a huge profit) to enthusiast who know they cant put all their force on the lever to get it in gear/know how to properly engage the transfer case.
07-17-2011 09:32 AM
FlyinJeeps I believe I heard it's designed to break before the T-case does. Forcing the leveler can really grind your gears.

It'd be better if it was designed to "break" and have a manual reset (like a fuse switch) to lock it back into place to try again (say after an engine restart), that's really what someone needs to design, so the T-case getting FUBARed isn't a liability.
07-17-2011 08:37 AM
AEsco48 Cant believe no one has had a shop make a brass bushing on a lathe and use an E-clip to hold it all together... I if I was not living in the middle of the desert...
08-26-2010 09:22 PM
WranglerX2009 Not that I am aware of. They sure need to. This happened to me on my very first trip off the pavement..... scared the heck out of me........
08-26-2010 12:03 AM
SLIM_SNOOPY Hello Everyone:


Anybody know if Chrysler ever came through in making an updated heavy duty part for the transfer case problem? Part#s ????.


Thanks.
03-29-2010 01:29 PM
Hilldweller
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
I agree, how do we get that to happen?
I sent it in as a request on the site feedback link. Seemed like the right way to go about it.
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