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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-15-2010 12:30 AM
Flyguychad I finally got it figured out, it wasn't the locker at all. It was the track bar. A bolt had come loose and undone and it was flopping around when the clutch was depressed.
02-25-2010 11:26 AM
Flyguychad Found out its a Dana 35, and from what I have been reading.... Locking a 35 is not a good thing.
02-17-2010 09:57 AM
slolane I would recommend having someone who is proficient driving a manual take the Jeep for a spin, that would be one way to easily rule out if it's because your new and learning to drive it. With an aggressive locker in the rear and some finesse you should be able to handle it on the street... from what I have seen and heard.

If it's still a problem I would take it in to a shop to have them take a look at for you. I just had a Detroit No-Slip installed in my Jeep last year and you can barely tell it's back there. I replaced the stock LSD unit, the shop I took it to had several LSD's that they replaced with ARB's, Detroits, etc... maybe you could have them do a swap for you and save you some money... my 2000 TJ only had 37,000 miles on the LSD when I took it out and let them have it. Just some things to consider.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.
02-17-2010 09:27 AM
burton160w No, a D44 is not standard on a Jeep Wrangler X. The X model is actually an inline-6 version of the SE model and then you can add on the options you desire. It's possible you have a D44 axle, but somewhat unlikely. Post a picture of your rear diff. (the pumpkin) and we can tell you.
02-17-2010 08:36 AM
s3nt3nc3d That's prolly why I was quoted so high then... he did mention that I'd be responsible for providing bearings and a shim kit (since I told him I'd provide all parts).
02-17-2010 07:20 AM
jpdocdave i would say its not guaranteed that pinion depth won't change, it could end up being more than just setting back lash, a lot of times you get lucky and sometimes you end up making changes 10 times before its right, and you're also talking pulling and pressing bearings, or replacing bearings.

anywho, it sounds like you need to pull the covers and look inside, post pics if you need help determining what you have in your diffs.
02-17-2010 01:30 AM
Flyguychad Definitely could be partly the new manual driver I say partly because even when I shift slowly it still bangs and just sounds awful. I swear sometimes I think the rear end is going to fall off. I had all the bushings replaced, and I have yet to check the motor mount. I did just read a previous post about that, and i have been meaning to check that out. So when I jacked up the backend with both tires off the ground I had both tires spinning by hand. When I spun one tire the other one never moved.

Now I am sitting here typing this and thinking to myself.. (remember I am new to this locker business) that if the other tire never spun then they aren't locked together????

When I am driving this Jeep it definitely grabs and turns when I let off the gas, and get on the gas like a locker would. I just have the mentality that I would rather fix it before something really goes wrong and costs me even more money. I was looking online and a Dana 44 spider gear set was around $100 bucks. Not even sure if that's what it is, but that's what I am guessing since its a 2002 X model. Thanks again for the input and insight!
02-16-2010 11:10 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
i hope we're not talking about a reset up of a r&p, jerry i was pretty sure you wouldn't suggest a price that low. its hard to find a shop much less than 100/hr these days, and thats 4.5-6 hrs in labor. you're talkin less than 50/hr.

if we're installing a different carrier it involves a whole new set up of the gears. don't let anyone touch it for 200 bux. maybe two hundred to remove a lunchbox locker and install spiders.
To just install a full case locker or LSD like a Truetrac, you only need to set the backlash, there's no need to do a full R&P setup unless you're also changing ratios with a new R&P gearset.
02-16-2010 09:16 PM
jpdocdave
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
That's a bit high, it seems like $250 is more the going rate with it sometimes only being $200.

Most labor rates can be negotiated so long as you're not using the dealer.
i hope we're not talking about a reset up of a r&p, jerry i was pretty sure you wouldn't suggest a price that low. its hard to find a shop much less than 100/hr these days, and thats 4.5-6 hrs in labor. you're talkin less than 50/hr.

if we're installing a different carrier it involves a whole new set up of the gears. don't let anyone touch it for 200 bux. maybe two hundred to remove a lunchbox locker and install spiders.
02-16-2010 04:28 PM
ChrisTX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyguychad View Post
Just bought a 2002 Wrangler X with rear lockers. This is my first rig with lockers and after driving it for a month and a half I am starting to hate them. I do a lot of highway driving and around town driving, but I love being able to to go anywhere if need be. The lockers really kick and drag, and click and bang and make all kinds of noise. In second gear it really bangs when I let off the gas, and get on the gas. It also bangs and jerks really bad when I shift into second. My first question is this all normal? My second question is if someone could point me in the direction of a good read about installing, and preferably uninstalling lockers. Actually any diagrams or info would be great. I really don't know too much about them, and I would love to learn more. From what i have read... they help with traction because they lock both tires together and one won't spin freely.

Anyhelp is appreciated!
It sounds like you have an auto locker that was improperly installed, or the springs are worn out. An auto locker is not intolerable in the rear.
02-16-2010 03:14 PM
SPDNJOE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyguychad View Post
Thanks Dan, the shifting part may be totally unrelated as I am still learning to drive a manual it could be the transmission??? Not sure really, but If I was to get rid of the locker how would I go about doing that?
Maybe this has a little to do with it ?
The jerking of learning to drive a stick maybe ?
02-16-2010 03:00 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d View Post
I just got a quote from my friend's shop to install a LSD unit... $300 in labor alone.
That's a bit high, it seems like $250 is more the going rate with it sometimes only being $200.

Most labor rates can be negotiated so long as you're not using the dealer.
02-16-2010 02:45 PM
jwm1986 I'd hate to go too far off-subject, but to me it sounds like you have more of a problem with motor mounts or control arm bushings being bad or going out...
02-16-2010 02:42 PM
s3nt3nc3d I just got a quote from my friend's shop to install a LSD unit... $300 in labor alone. I'd imagine you're looking at something around that price range to have it replaced with something else. Plus the cost of all parts.
02-16-2010 02:40 PM
Jerry Bransford Did both tires spin freely in the same direction when you spun one tire by hand? Spin them by hand, not with the engine.
02-16-2010 02:34 PM
Flyguychad Ok how can I tell what lockers I have? I was told to jack it up and spin the tires. I jacked the whole back end up and both tires were off the ground and both tires spun freely. I am thinking maybe I should have only jacked one side up? Anyways easiest way to tell which lockers I have?
02-15-2010 10:44 PM
Jerry Bransford Several lockers are pretty notorious for their poor manners when installed into the rear axle, as opposed to those same lockers being fairly well behaved when installed into the front axle.

So no, most lockers that are popular for the rear axles are not poorly behaved like that. I just sounds like the previous owner installed the wrong locker back there. I would suspect it's ether an EZ-Locker, Lockrite, or Aussie locker that you have in your rear axle.

My own rear locker, a Detroit Locker, is very well behaved 99% of the time. The 1% it is not is really not all that bad either.
02-15-2010 10:21 PM
jpdocdave it depends on what locker, if you're lucky it could be just reinstalling regular spider gears, if its a whole carrier it is not a diy job to reset up your gears to an open carrier.
02-15-2010 10:17 PM
Flyguychad Thanks Dan, the shifting part may be totally unrelated as I am still learning to drive a manual it could be the transmission??? Not sure really, but If I was to get rid of the locker how would I go about doing that?
02-13-2010 02:06 AM
dan188 Hi Chad,

I guess it depends on the locker, but some are barely noticeable at all. For example, the ausie and tru-track are supposed to be very good on the street. maybe you just have a really tightly sprung locker or something is wrong. I had a very tightly clutched locker in a race/street car of mine and it used to click around corners, but never when shifting. Someone else better chime in on that one. Good luck!
02-13-2010 12:54 AM
Flyguychad
Lockers, performance, uninstall?

Just bought a 2002 Wrangler X with rear lockers. This is my first rig with lockers and after driving it for a month and a half I am starting to hate them. I do a lot of highway driving and around town driving, but I love being able to to go anywhere if need be. The lockers really kick and drag, and click and bang and make all kinds of noise. In second gear it really bangs when I let off the gas, and get on the gas. It also bangs and jerks really bad when I shift into second. My first question is this all normal? My second question is if someone could point me in the direction of a good read about installing, and preferably uninstalling lockers. Actually any diagrams or info would be great. I really don't know too much about them, and I would love to learn more. From what i have read... they help with traction because they lock both tires together and one won't spin freely.

Anyhelp is appreciated!

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