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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-29-2014 09:54 AM
Serge627 Good build thread. I will be doing some of the same with my project 87. I will be keeping an eye on this one, so keep it updated! LOL
12-11-2013 03:44 PM
Hooz I haven't posted any updates for a while. Cold weather and anon-heated garage have slowed me down a bit... and the fact that my wife kicked me out of the garage so her truck could go back in didn't help either.

I am making progress, though! I think I've got the t-case linkage figured out, the new exhaust is in and (I think) I've assembled everything I'm going to need for the rear disc conversion.

Now I just need a nice space heater for the garage.
11-21-2013 09:40 PM
samizdad Nice job. I'm so glad we don't have a rust problem in NM. Looks like you are on your way to a nice Jeep.
11-21-2013 06:56 PM
Originally Posted by W5KVV View Post
So glad my Jeep is a lifelong Oklahoma Jeep. Working with rusty components sucks, but looks like you got it knocked out! Keep up the good work. You're way ahead of me. I've been working on a clutch job for dang near 2 weeks due to other projects getting in the way, not to mention my helpers flaked out on me. It's always something!
Where are you in Oklahoma?
11-21-2013 02:27 PM
W5KVV So glad my Jeep is a lifelong Oklahoma Jeep. Working with rusty components sucks, but looks like you got it knocked out!

Keep up the good work. You're way ahead of me. I've been working on a clutch job for dang near 2 weeks due to other projects getting in the way, not to mention my helpers flaked out on me.

It's always something!
11-21-2013 11:41 AM
Hooz Yeah. And the list is still pretty long as-is, so "shorter" is still relative.

Are there any good write-ups anywhere for taking the slop out of the shift lever? I've found bits and pieces about springs for the 1-2 and 5-R sides, and something about a bushing on the bottom of the lever, but I haven't seen any write-ups or pictures of where they are and/or how to change them.

I also need to take out the spacer bracket and fix the transfer case shifter linkage. I guess I'll start Googling that now too.
11-21-2013 11:26 AM
daddyjeep Don't worry, the To Do list will grow again.
11-21-2013 08:52 AM
Hooz I finally got the last piece of the exhaust puzzle last night, so I'm hoping to get the new pipes all put on tonight. Turns out that nobody local had the little square gasket that goes between the downpipe and the cat. That little $3 part held me up for days while I waited on delivery.

If all goes well I'll be starting on the brake rebuild/rear disc conversion this weekend!

I also started collecting parts to do the Taurus e-fan conversion using the Volvo controller. If I can get everything here in time, that will give me something to do over the long holiday weekend after I finish up the brakes.

My to-do list is getting shorter!
11-19-2013 11:05 AM
Hooz Yeah. It's in the manifold, way before the cat.
11-19-2013 10:11 AM
daddyjeep The o2 sensor would be befor the cat right? I don't see why it would make any difference.
11-19-2013 09:16 AM
Hooz As a side note/question - The old exhaust was cat-less. Since I'm putting a cat back in and changing the entire exhaust, should I just go ahead and replace the O2 sensor while I'm at it?
11-18-2013 07:28 PM
daddyjeep Take the track bar off and don't put it back on. Might not be what you want to hear, but you don't need it anyway.

I like the thought of putting the GC brakes on your D35. I thought about that a while back when I had my drive train donor GC.
11-18-2013 07:05 PM
simonclay I don't know personally. But I've read probably have a dozen posts asking the same question and they all get told to remove the track bar. Just saying
11-18-2013 07:04 PM
yjdave Had the same problem when I went to replace mine. The trick is to jack up the body on that side and the resulting droop will give you enough room to get it through there. Good luck, Dave
11-18-2013 06:39 PM
Hooz I got the old exhaust off tonight. I got the downpipe and new cat in place, but I'm having issues routing the tailpipe over the trackbar. Is there a way to do it without taking the trackbar off, or am I stuck taking it off?
11-17-2013 11:27 AM
Hooz I haven't posted any pictures of my Jeep for a while, so here are a couple with the new Prothane 1" body lift (2" drop for me ) installed.

I still have a bunch more frame painting to do, and the exhaust, and the brakes... I also have to fix my transfer case linkage now that the body is back down to a more normal height (it has the spacer bracket in there for the 3" BL that was installed).

But I'm making progress!
11-04-2013 09:43 AM
Hooz I made some really good progress on my Jeep this weekend. I did a LOT more scraping, wire-brushing and painting on the frame and underbody. I'm ready to drop the passenger side back down onto the new body bushings. Then I can start on the driver's side.

I started looking for all the bits and pieces I'd need to rebuild the rear (drum) brakes. Did I mention I *HATE* drum brakes? I got to thinking, and did some online reading, and then I bought the entire rear disc setup off of a 1996 Grand Cherokee instead. I've got the backing plates, calipers, rotors, brake lines, and e-brake cables on the way. Total cost was $100 + $35 shipping.

I swear it's a sickness.
10-29-2013 10:12 PM
daddyjeep You are making progress and you will get there. I am on 2 1/2 years on my current build... these things take time.
10-29-2013 09:24 PM
Hooz I guess I should've qualified that by saying that body lifts that stack a puck on top of the factory bushings suck. A lot.

I did have some rust issues, but that's not my main problem. I got all of the bolts loose without cutting or breaking any. The big problem is that having the stacked spacers gives everything too much play, and the extra long bolts just make things worse.

I've got a few bolts that are actually worn out-of-round because, evidently, they had to much play and rubbed on the factory retainers. The "lips" worn into the bolts are making them difficult to remove as they are wedged in to the factory retainers at an angle.

Having the stacked spacers has also caused the top part of the rubber factory mount to get hammered down into the holes in the perches. Since it's mushroomed out the bottom, it puts even more pressure on the retainer's sleeve, locking it fast in place. I've had to cut out what rubber I could get to and use a crowbar to pry out the retainers.

Now I see why the 4x4 shop wanted to charge me $200-300/bolt!

It's frustrating, but I'll get it!
10-29-2013 06:54 PM
daddyjeep I agree that body lifts suck, but I think your issue is more of a "buying a Jeep in the rust belt problem". I feel for you. When I was tearing down my Jeep I got to the point where I just stopped trying the wrenches and cut everything.
10-29-2013 05:39 PM

Taking this 3" BL out is proving to be a lot more of a job than I anticipated. The (3") longer bolts are bent, worn or rust-welded into the retainer sleeves. Every single mount is a new problem!

My angle grinder and sawzall have never gotten so much use... and I'm not even done with the first side yet!
10-27-2013 08:58 AM
Hooz I didn't get a lot of time to work on it yesterday, but I hit a couple more snags. Today I have to run out and see if I can find some taller jack stands locally.

I did get the last couple of bolts loose, though!
10-24-2013 06:08 AM
Hooz I may end up having to cut quite a few of the bolts, but not because they're not turning. I'll post a picture of what I mean when I get time but, let's just say that my opinion that big body lifts are bad has been reaffirmed with this project.
10-23-2013 06:48 PM
daddyjeep Good idea with the small holes for PB Blaster. Again, feel free to cut #2 because it can be accessed from above.
10-23-2013 05:58 PM
Hooz I got bolt #4 (as pictured above) loose, and I drilled some little access holes for the two rear bolts so I could get some PB Blaster on the business ends. I'll hit them tomorrow and Friday again, then try the impact wrench again on Saturday. If they come out I should have the body drop done this weekend!
10-23-2013 11:33 AM
OhioLugg Thanks for the thread, I have this to do too! and Hi from Columbus lol!
10-22-2013 01:22 PM
Originally Posted by DuckWarrior View Post
How are you prepping the frame for the chassis paint?
Blasting? drill? Hand and paper?
Scraping it with a 5-in-1, various wire brushes in a drill and wire brushing by hand. Also using Purple Power degreaser and a power washer.

According to the manufacturer of the Chassis Saver frame paint, I only need to remove the loose scale and degrease. Then I'll just paint over what surface rust is left.

I'm not going for full restoration. When it's all said-and-done, it'll still be a beat-up, old Jeep.

I'm going to paint the tops of the frame rails and all the body bushing perches while I'm swapping body mounts (one side at a time). Once it's back down on the new mounts I'll do the internal frame paint, then finish the outsides of the frame rails.
10-22-2013 01:05 PM
DuckWarrior How are you prepping the frame for the chassis paint?
Blasting? drill? Hand and paper?
10-22-2013 12:12 PM
Hooz IIRC (haven't looked at it since Saturday), the red stars are not moving, the yellow are spinning and the green are loose without issue.

I've tried the "pry down with a crowbar while turning the bolt" deal on the spinners. No go.

As for the frame rust, it is all superficial. A lot of the rusty scale in the picture was old undercoat and surface rust. I scraped and wire brushed the crap out of it and it looks pretty damned good. No rot. I drilled the drain holes in the frame while I was under there and washed it all out.

I've also got some Eastwood internal frame paint and some Chassis Black for the outside. I'll be doing that while I have the body mounts off each side and the tub in the air.
10-22-2013 11:42 AM
cueball13 Please be sure to check the frame rails at the rear wheels (near the spring mount).. From the looks of the rust on the frame in your pics, you may have some cancer there. You may want to be prepared to take care of it while the in is up.
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