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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-28-2013 09:23 PM
lovemachine I have the aluminum Currie Antirock in the front, factory sway bar in the rear.

I love the way it handles on the road. I love it so much, that I'd like to run it in the rear as well.

I cannot wait to try the AR offroad. I'm hoping to go soon and test it out.
10-28-2013 09:58 AM
Imped
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trendsetter75 View Post
ORO Sway Loc reviews I see they are more money than Curries, which I would think the Sway Loc would be better.
I think it should be very obvious why it costs more.

Dual rate = dual bars = more parts. More parts = more $$.

"Better" is completely subjective and is a function of many factors. I run custom sway bars on both ends using Currie components and a couple custom fabricated parts. Both are single rate and my Jeep is flat out stable on and off the road.
10-27-2013 08:44 PM
Trendsetter75 ORO Sway Loc reviews I see they are more money than Curries, which I would think the Sway Loc would be better.
10-27-2013 11:29 AM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOtestpilot View Post
$689 for the lever operated. Dang! Looks to be a sweet setup though.
I got mine for about $500 shipped from quadratec. You find sales on em here and there if you pay attn.

But hey if you don't want ANY COMPROMISE for on AND off road, then its the best ticket to get. Love mine. One of the best upgrades I made to my rig. Money well spent and spent only once.
10-27-2013 11:27 AM
UFOtestpilot $689 for the lever operated. Dang! Looks to be a sweet setup though.
10-27-2013 11:16 AM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Dealer View Post
Yes, these days alot of us are on a budget. That makes the point even stronger. Save your money, pay a little more and get quality. Once you buy a pair of disco's you will see how they really are. No matter how good of a brand they are, they will still be a pita to re connect. Before anyone says anything, I have owned jks ones. Having to bounce, shake, move, push on the rig to line up gets old after awhile. Notice how all of the people reccomending the ar,are the ones that wheel alot more then some? Plus when everything gets wet and nasty its not fun. Reconnecting in a sudden downpour sucks. The beauty of the ar is the multiple settings. The ones complaining about street manners have prolly never owned an ar. As a matter of fact, who gets one, and sells it because they liked the disco's? Plus if the guy in the lowrider Honda next to you pisses you off, you don't have to get out and get prepared before you drive on his hood
The multiple settings on the AR are fine. But not like you can just flip a switch to change it. You can only do that with the ORO Swayloc.

Good write up on the Swayloc(this is the actuated version), and this gentleman went from an Antirock to the ORO Swayloc: SwayLOC - 1

Good quote from the last section on that article
Quote:
Happily, I can say that the 20 hours spent on the highway were very good ones. Even though we had the typical cross winds as we traveled through Northern Arizona (high desert), the highway mode of the SwayLOC kept things nice and stable. The handling was everything I hoped it would be. My buddy with his Anti-rock was behind me by a couple hundred yards and he could easily see the improved performance (compared to his setup).
As for the off-road performance, it was as though my Currie Anti-rock had never been removed. It provided the same stability that I've come to know during these past years of running the AR.


The Dealer above made a good point.........save the money, budget or not, quality and functionality in reality saves time and money in the long run.

To the OP: You already have disconnects. Don't waste money on another set. If your rig is off road mainly, look at the AR, if its a split DD/off road toy, then strongly consider the ORO Swayloc also. Its basically a refined and improved dual rate Antirock. Most people can't even tell the difference between them if the sticker isn't present.
10-27-2013 11:06 AM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOtestpilot View Post
$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking. One track day in any car will surpass that significantly. A good battery costs that. A decent tire costs that, unmounted even. Just saying. Now back to your regularly scheduled argum, err debate.
I agree as well $200 is a drop in the bucket in the reality of things when it comes to this hobby.
10-27-2013 06:22 AM
jp2611
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPi1 View Post
JKS discos: $160, Antirock: $360
It appears my thought process wasn't clear yesterday..I will blame the pain meds...I got hit in '14 JKU yesterday and have a broken collar bone.....I think the Jeep is totalled.

My statement was based on the OP's first post...that said he already had QD's......IMO QD's are all pretty much the same.....so why switch to another variation of the same thing?

If he is not satisfied with one brand IMO he should get a Currie, not replace with the same thing i.e. another set of QD's.
10-26-2013 11:57 PM
The_Dealer Yes, these days alot of us are on a budget. That makes the point even stronger. Save your money, pay a little more and get quality. Once you buy a pair of disco's you will see how they really are. No matter how good of a brand they are, they will still be a pita to re connect. Before anyone says anything, I have owned jks ones. Having to bounce, shake, move, push on the rig to line up gets old after awhile. Notice how all of the people reccomending the ar,are the ones that wheel alot more then some? Plus when everything gets wet and nasty its not fun. Reconnecting in a sudden downpour sucks. The beauty of the ar is the multiple settings. The ones complaining about street manners have prolly never owned an ar. As a matter of fact, who gets one, and sells it because they liked the disco's? Plus if the guy in the lowrider Honda next to you pisses you off, you don't have to get out and get prepared before you drive on his hood
10-26-2013 11:27 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOtestpilot View Post
I'm not saying $200 isn't a lot of money. What I am stating is that in a recreational hobby involving a vehicle (wheeling is not a practical form of transportation) $200 is nothing.
When compared to other improvements, sure. I'm just saying that some people are on a budget. Which leads me to Jerry's comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
We are trying to answer the OP's question and not bring in all the world's other possible scenarious right?
I've referenced many threads where I'm not the OP but still used the advice it contained.
10-26-2013 11:01 PM
The_Dealer the mc ones come with a piece that you screw into the frame or inner fender to hold them.

And on ufo's behalf, what he is saying, save your money and do it right the 1st time. Make your own with $6 worth of hardware to get you by. Then save your cash until you can get better quality parts. Also $200 really is nothing compared to what you are facing later on as you build. $200 compared to an 8.8 swap to go with your big tires, plus regear and lockers. I bought my bb. Paid around 100 bux for it. Then I bought shocks, which was about $180 more. 3 months later I bought pieces to put my own 3" lift together. I could have saved that money I wasted to get what I wanted in the 1st place.

Another thing that is going to open up a whole new can of worms is usable travel with ar vs disco's. I constantly see people bragging about their coil falling out of the bucket while disco's. There is no downward force on the axle. No force=no traction. The ar can also serve as a limit strap. You might not be worried about that right now in the build, but as you build up you will.
10-26-2013 09:54 PM
UFOtestpilot Do those rings act as keepers when they're disconnected?
10-26-2013 09:51 PM
themadhatter On a completely different note, I purchased a set of Metal Cloak disconnects. I will be installing them tomorrow and will report back on my thoughts. Factory link included for comparison purposes.

10-26-2013 09:50 PM
UFOtestpilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school." Even in college or at my first job, $200 was a huge difference.
I'm not saying $200 isn't a lot of money. What I am stating is that in a recreational hobby involving a vehicle (wheeling is not a practical form of transportation) $200 is nothing.

To suggest that my statement is erroneous in a thread where the issue at hand is a $160 part that does NOTHING that can't be done with a couple of $1 yard sale wrenches in a few minutes is a pretty weak point to base an argument from. But to each their own.

OP: regardless of what you choose, and the information is here if you sift through it all, I hope you get what you want and enjoy your rig!
10-26-2013 09:07 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school."
Where did Trendsetter75 say he has either of those issues? I don't believe he did.

We are trying to answer the OP's question and not bring in all the world's other possible scenarious right?
10-26-2013 09:00 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOtestpilot View Post
$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking.
Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school."

Even in college or at my first job, $200 was a huge difference.
10-26-2013 08:55 PM
The_Dealer The thing I really like about the ar, is the fact that you don't have to dick around with anything as soon as you hit the dirt. How many of you guys just up and go screw around offroad on a whim. It is worth half the money in convenience. Its on my list of things to do
10-26-2013 08:47 PM
UFOtestpilot I'm not into the whole argument about this vs that or what's best per sé. I will state though that not only will I acquire the antirock in the future but more importantly:

$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking. One track day in any car will surpass that significantly. A good battery costs that. A decent tire costs that, unmounted even. Just saying. Now back to your regularly scheduled argum, err debate.
10-26-2013 08:36 PM
JPi1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611 View Post
I agree even though it is almost 3 times as much as the discos....why replace that part with another that is gonna do the same thing?
JKS discos: $160, Antirock: $360
10-26-2013 08:17 PM
jp2611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen_TJ View Post
I vote you spend a little extra and get the currie antirock...
I agree even though it is almost 3 times as much as the discos....why replace that part with another that is gonna do the same thing?
10-26-2013 08:08 PM
JPi1 I run antirocks on my coil over JKUR with 40" MTRs. Drove to the Rubicon trail, along with 4 other customers/friends, 550 miles each way, mountain roads. I daily drive it, go to Vegas, Reno, wherever, and would never never be afraid or regret recommending Antirocks to any customer. On road: great, off road: nothing better! Anyone that doesn't like antirocks doesn't actually own them. JKS: very good Disco, Antirock: better option if it's within your budget.
10-26-2013 04:41 PM
VTBalla34 .
10-26-2013 04:10 PM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post

Uh, this is a tech board. Calm down, pull up your pants, and put away the ruler.
Wrangler forum boards offer little in the way of knowledgeable "tech" beyond the "my heater core isn't blowing heat" threads, or, "which lift kit should I buy"? Actual tech talk in terms of how to really improve performance aspects of your vehicle for the duty they will perform in real deep discussion is nearly non existent in the Wrangler forums which honestly is a shame.
10-26-2013 04:05 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJO View Post
Post what you have on a tech board discussing performance handling......you would be laughed off after the first thread with the comments made from this thread.
Uh, this is a tech board. Calm down, pull up your pants, and put away the ruler.
10-26-2013 03:52 PM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post

And no matter what NJO claims, he is absolutely 100% wrong that my TJ doesn't handle well on even the twisty mountain roads I am drive all the time. That includes the routine emergency evasive maneuvers I've had to take over the years even when towing the trailer,

With the right shocks, you can run an Antirock set even to its loosest setting, as I do, and still have very good and very safe handling. Certainly the handling would not be good with soft mushy shocks, AS ALREADY SAID ABOVE, but with good quality shocks as also mentioned above, the Antirock is fine for a daily driver. Anyone who claims otherwise has either an agenda or simply has never driven a properly set up TJ running good quality shocks and an Antirock. I would not put up with poor handling, especially having been a sportscar fanatic for many years, and I don't put up with poor handling with my Antirock equipped TJ. Especially since I have to tow a trailer through my local mountains on a regular basis to go wheeling. To claim my TJ doesn't handle well simply because it has an Antirock is pure bull****.
Jerry your full of it. I wheel with ALOT of people who use and love the antirock, but NO ONE will state in my group that it does anything to aid in on road handling. Just the opposite.

And it doesn't matter what shocks you run, your springs are more critical now at this point running a much weaker roll bar in combination with a much higher vehicle COG, not the shocks.
Post what you have on a tech board discussing performance handling......you would be laughed off after the first thread with the comments made from this thread.

If you think your jeep handles fantastic compared to one that actually is competently setup, that's your perogative. Just don't expect everyone to drink your kool aid. The Antirock is not in the same class as the stock roll bar, one a dual rate roll bar that is as stiff as the stock bar for on road use.
10-26-2013 02:46 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Clear something up for me: I noticed you said "twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly." Would Antirock be somewhat overkill for someone who lives in the Midwest or doesn't get out to offroad very much?
That depends on the terrain you offroad in, even if you don't wheel all that often. No matter how often you go offroad, an Antirock makes a huge improvement in stability & offroad ability if you wheel on uneven terrain that is more difficult than a fire road. If the trail is uneven enough that you're lifting tires or getting way offcamber, an Antirock makes a dramatic improvement.

But for mild offroading, an Antirock could be considered overkill by some... though it's never a bad choice for offroading. I'd certainly rather run an Antirock than simply disconnect the front antiswaybar.

And no matter what NJO claims, he is absolutely 100% wrong that my TJ doesn't handle well on even the twisty mountain roads I am drive all the time. That includes the routine emergency evasive maneuvers I've had to take over the years even when towing the trailer,

With the right shocks, you can run an Antirock set even to its loosest setting, as I do, and still have very good and very safe handling. Certainly the handling would not be good with soft mushy shocks, AS ALREADY SAID ABOVE, but with good quality shocks as also mentioned above, the Antirock is fine for a daily driver. Anyone who claims otherwise has either an agenda or simply has never driven a properly set up TJ running good quality shocks and an Antirock. I would not put up with poor handling, especially having been a sportscar fanatic for many years, and I don't put up with poor handling with my Antirock equipped TJ. Especially since I have to tow a trailer through my local mountains on a regular basis to go wheeling. To claim my TJ doesn't handle well simply because it has an Antirock is pure bull****.
10-26-2013 10:55 AM
BLK00TJ I didn't think there was all that much of a time savings when I had disconnects over stock links. You still need to get down and pull pins and latch them up. It took maybe two minutes more to get a wrench and torx to do the same thing when I ran stock links. Price/performance, disconnects were the least valuable of the mods I ever tried; high price for JKS discos and little time saved. $150+ was not worth two minutes of time saved each wheeling session

I now have a Currie AR and don't have to do a thing to my suspension before going offroad and have more stability.
10-25-2013 09:47 PM
NJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
You forgot to mention that your system is four times as expensive as quick disconnects and twice as expensive as Antirock.



So everyone else in this thread and every other thread suggesting JKS are wrong? Somehow I doubt that.



Clear something up for me: I noticed you said "twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly." Would Antirock be somewhat overkill for someone who lives in the Midwest or doesn't get out to offroad very much?

(Not trying to be a smartass with you, BTW.)
A. Your absolutely right that the ORO Swayloc is a lot more expensive than quick disconnects and the Antirock. Is that a reason NOT to mention it? Or should the OP be made aware of it as an option? Or should we all assume the OP is poor or can't afford the top tier quality products?

B. I personally think disconnects suck. And its due to the significant body roll and increased instability off road. And the higher your lift and larger the tires, the worse it becomes.

C. Antirocks are great off road. They are NOT great on road. Jerry loves to make it seem like there is no appreciable difference in on road stability running an Antirock on road, and its just not the case. Sure you can get used to driving with it just fine on road, just like you can with NO front swaybar. Its not the expected you have to worry about with it. Its the potential for needing to do a quick action or reaction to a situation that could involve an accident. Say you have to make a sudden hard cut on the steering wheel to one side to avoid an accident or animal in the road..............or a back and forth cut to avoid a road hazard while keeping from going off the road.........this is where the Antirock can be a huge hazard. Since the body does not have the same control it throws the COG off quicker and with a lot less control. The higher your lift/raised COG the worse it will be. One big reason why Currie has a disclaimer of "for offroad use ONLY" on it.

Which is why the ORO Swayloc is the best unit out there for true dual purpose functionality for those who run their Wranglers as DD's and not just offroad toys. Its an off road Antirock.........with a secondary on road bar that locks on to it for on road stability.


To the OP: If you already have quick disconnects......keep em, till you can afford something much better. If this is a rig that mostly runs off road, the Currie Antirock is a great choice and worth saving up for, just be aware of its limitations on road(hazard situations that require fast cutting/turn of the wheel). If this is a DD rig that does true double duty, the ORO Swayloc is the best of the best, with no compromise in design.
10-25-2013 08:37 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJO View Post
That's what the DUAL RATE ORO SWAYLOC is for. That's what I run. FLip a switch, in on road stiff mode, flip it again, now soft. Its basically 2 swaybars in one.
You forgot to mention that your system is four times as expensive as quick disconnects and twice as expensive as Antirock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NJO View Post
Quick disco's SUCK, worthless.
So everyone else in this thread and every other thread suggesting JKS are wrong? Somehow I doubt that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
TI have run Antirocks on their very loosest setting in two TJs for 12-13 years yet my TJ handles superbly on the twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly simply because I am running good quality shock absorbers.
Clear something up for me: I noticed you said "twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly." Would Antirock be somewhat overkill for someone who lives in the Midwest or doesn't get out to offroad very much?

(Not trying to be a smartass with you, BTW.)
10-25-2013 08:16 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trendsetter75 View Post
Doesn't the AntiRock ruin onroad driving performance?
That is a trait only opined by those who either don't run Antirocks themselves or ran them with soft mushy shocks.

I have run Antirocks on their very loosest setting in two TJs for 12-13 years yet my TJ handles superbly on the twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly simply because I am running good quality shock absorbers. I'm running OME Nitrochargers but similar quality shocks like from Bilstein, Fox, Rancho R9000XL, etc. will produce the same results. And that is also during those times when towing a tent trailer on those same twisty mountain roads, I keep up with the traffic without problem.

Pay zero attention to those who claim otherwise about Antirocks, they have no clue and have no personal experience with them. I'm on my second Antirock equipped TJ & wouldn't go any other way.
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