|04-29-2010 08:01 PM|
|TKorona||As a new Jeeper I just decided to do the easiest thing possible. I went to my local harley shop today and asked if they had any mirrors for cheap and that I wanted to stick it on my doorless YJ. The guy behind the counter new exactly what I wanted. Hooked me up... then showed me his TJ, also with the doors off today!|
|04-29-2010 07:44 PM|
emgo mirror found the style that is very close
emgo mirror mount black - Google Product Search
the emgo are a very inexpensive mirror to go with for this project so you do not have to spend the money on the brackets. The harley dealer has a style for 29.98 each.
|04-29-2010 06:08 PM|
Does anyone know where I can buy just the mirror and not the bracket? I think I will just buy one and place it in the bracket. Thanks!
|04-29-2010 01:49 PM|
|04-28-2010 03:03 PM|
|jaeger24||I had trouble gettin mine out on my 08, however I did not need the anti breakaway pcs. mine stay put without. I did put my pass side back to the original location after a few months. I pull a trailer and backing up was almost impossible with it on the pillar, so moving it back made that alot easier. I live in Pa and we only need the drivers side to be legal. I do like the harley mirror idea, might give that a try. I have a good set of Arlen Ness mirrors sitting around with nothing to do w/ them.|
|04-28-2010 01:18 PM|
You'll need a torx socket as opposed to a driver to tighten that bottom screw.
|04-28-2010 01:09 PM|
How do you get the mirror out of the door mount after removing it from the door? Do you just hammer it out from the bottom?
Also, because the bottom Torx screw for the frame mount is blocked by the replacement bracket, I can't fit the torx screwdriver in the limited space to tighten the bottom screw. Does anyone have any suggestions?
|03-20-2010 02:15 PM|
I just installed my relocation and broke my mirror too Well, the damage isn't severe the plastic shell is just loose around the mirror now because it's mounting point inside the mirror broke so I don't think I'll be replacing it. Getting the mirrors off the stock bracket is very tough and the only way as the OP said is to punch them out through the bottom. I have some pics of how they look with half doors. As you can see the passenger side mirror is blocked even more by half door skins - they were a little better with the factory doors but not much.
|03-17-2010 09:37 AM|
2. As Schmo stated. They are indeed stable, even at highway speeds. You don't need tools to install or remove. Also they have the same feature of folding in if you hit something, as they rotate on the hinge with that much force.
|03-17-2010 09:36 AM|
|03-16-2010 08:59 PM|
Yes they are very stable . . . especially coming off of a Harley which vibrates like crazy, these are solid mirrors that don't bounce around, shake, etc. Seeing that you bolt it to something like a beefy door hinge, it's really solid. I would recommend getting a real motorcycle mirror and not some cheezy thing like my buddy bought at Pep Boys . . . that thing bounces all over and you couldn't see something out of it to save your life.
|03-16-2010 06:48 PM|
2> Are they stable? They look like they would shake alot.
|03-16-2010 03:20 PM|
|03-16-2010 03:13 PM|
This cost 10 buck and 5 to ship.
|03-16-2010 02:58 PM|
Take one from the opposite door and thread it all the way in the bottom of the mirror. It will stick out about half and inch. Give it a couple of sharp strikes with a hammer and your mirror will pop up. You want to thread the bolt all the way so as not to strip it when you strike it.
|03-16-2010 02:46 PM|
|Schmo||If the hinge set up on a JK is the same as that of a TJ, you can pick up a motorcycle mirror for any Harley and it'll fit right in there. Will probably set you back about 10 bucks and you don't have to mess around with removing the mirrors off of your doors, installing the brackets etc. Just slide the mirror into the hinge and put the nut on the bottom and you are in business!|
|03-16-2010 02:32 PM|
|apo8307||I too have had the same problem the drivers came off great the passenger side first the bolt was already rusted, second the mirror due to hard times was put togeather by superman i tryed to hit it off the way you said and all that did was mess up the metal housing on the inside. my buddy then told me that you can't even see out the passenger side soooo i left mine off! $50.00 for one mirrior yeaaaaaaaaaa|
|03-16-2010 02:20 PM|
My opinion is the Rugged Ridge (and maybe the Mopar) brackets are a total waste of time. The only reason to buy the Rugged Ridge is to get the plates that cover up the holes after you take the mirror off the door.
I did what vze2372e said about hitting the mirror from the bottom mount point to get the mirrors off, it worked after I beat on them long enough. Installing the mirrors, just keep in mind when the RR instructions say to make the mirrors parallel with the doors when the doors are open, that means when you are pulling as hard as you can on the open doors, because wind will push against the door straps and cause the door to hit the mirror. An inconvenience but something to watch for.
Putting the bolt back in the stock mirror? Forget it. Get some green Loctite and hand-tighten the bolt in place and leave it. The RR brackets, when you have to use the plastic shims on 08 or later (or whatever the year, mine's a 2010) lift the mirror up so that the stock bolt only gets about 4 or 5 threads into the aluminum mount at the bottom of the mirror. Any tightening to get the "breakaway" feature - mentioned in the RR instructions - results in stripping out the aluminum.
I drilled a hole into the mount and the mirror base itself and pinned it all together with a steel screw. That's just until my set of Lange quick mirror II mirrors get here from Quadratec, because the passenger mirror in the RR brackets doesn't have 1/3 or whatever visible, it has none visible and is useless to 5' 8" tall me who doesn't have the driver's seat shoved all the way back.
Final result: I paid $50 for two Rugged Ridge plates to block the holes in the doors and I got a stripped out mirror for free since the stock bolts will NOT engage enough thread to hold.
Hopefully, $130 worth of Lange mirrors (+ a staggering $25 to ship) will give me some usable mirrors again.
I know everybody is a better mechanic than me, but give this some thought before you try to use the RR brackets. I honestly don't mind that I spent $50 for the door plates, they are great, really well done. Wish they just sold them separately and they'd discontinue the worthless brackets.
|02-21-2010 11:25 AM|
|daggo66||I'm thinking that I'm going to do this, but only do it to the driver side. I use my mirrors mainly for backing up so I don't want to lose the passenger side when the doors are on.|
|02-21-2010 11:08 AM|
|02-21-2010 10:34 AM|
ha ha ha look at my big belly and hairy back ... yea I figured they would just pop off and the drivers side did ... just not in one piece. The mirror head and shaft are attached to the black plastic mirror housing with four plastic mount points. I broke them giving the mirror a little elbow grease but realistically anybody stronger than a 5 year old could apply the same force, hence the issue.
For the record, the relocation mounts are Rugged R's and I got them through Quadratec, which delivered as promised. Nice pieces.
|02-21-2010 10:20 AM|
|inzgary||Did you go with the Mopars or the Rugged Rs?|
|02-21-2010 10:17 AM|
|tiny terror||You shall forever be orangutan man. Now show us pictures of said breakage.|
|02-21-2010 10:12 AM|
Mirror relocation brackets - Oooops
OK just a heads up if your planning on moving your mirrors from the door to the A pillar with mirror relocation brackets.
After removing the set screw from the base of the mirror, the instructions state that the mirror may need considerable force to remove from the door mount, and you can work it back and forth until it comes free. It shows a hand holding the mirror by the mirror housing for this purpose.
My brand new Ruby with only 700 miles on it had mirrors that may as well been press fit into the mounts. Considerable force is right - the expectation is it lifts right out; in my case at least, this was far from the case.
By placing the force on the mirror housing, your putting the stress on the (4) plastic mount points inside the housing. Guess what? yea ... SNAP
Instead, I found that taking a small nut driver and hammer, and tapping firmly upward on the base of the mount (i.e. where the locking screw came from, the metal shaft) I was able to cleanly lift the mirror free without damage.
Now I'm a self professed orangutan so it's my fault, but after looking at how the mirrors are constructed, I'd suggest the nut driver and small hammer approach (just watch the paint and make sure you don't launch the mirror when it finally does come free). It would have saved me the $106.00 for a new mirror.
As for the relocation brackets. They attached quickly and easily with a #40 Torx driver, and the mirrors slid right in. The drivers side is perfect. The A pillar blocks 3/4 of the passenger mirror though, so a $1.99 investment in a 4" round wide angle stick on mirror from Autozone is a lifesaver. With the doors off, both mirrors are fully in view.
I like to drive around with a big stupid grin on - this mod cost $50.00 and keeps me compliant with State and Federal law - I highly recommend it