|04-13-2010 09:09 PM|
|adkjoe||your the man or woman?, congrats!! seems like you learned some important lessons during this week of brake work good job!|
|04-13-2010 08:56 PM|
|bato||Bck in action!! Bled the all 4 lines, everything id good to go. took it for a test drive the brakes work amazing!! thanks guys!|
|04-12-2010 08:47 PM|
|bato||So I got a little bit of time today and I put the caliper on, put in the new banjo bolt with washers, filled the reservoir back up and pumped the pedal a few times to get fluid back in the line. No leaks everything is good so far. The pedal is really mushy and goes just about to the floor but I think that's only because of all the air in the line. I'm going to bleed them tmrw when I get home and be back in action. What's the proper sequence to bleed? Pass rear, driver rear, front pass then drivers front?|
|04-10-2010 12:14 PM|
No one else mentioned it, but when bleeding the brakes it helps to have the right size "line wrench" they work better on the bleeder screws so you dont round out the screw. Should be able to pick one up at the NAPA for a couple bucks. Better then messin up a bleeder and having to go back to the store to get a new one.
Also spray all your bleeder screws with PB Blaster now so they are easier to loosen when you go to bleed, just be careful not to get any lube on the brake surfaces i.e rotors/pads. If you do overspray just clean it off with brake cleaner.
|04-10-2010 11:30 AM|
|04-10-2010 10:22 AM|
haha...just went to napa, they had to order it but it will be here at 9am tomorrow. Then I can finally drive my jeep again. $3 for the bolt, turns out it's the same as ford trucks as well. 3/8" 24 thread.
I'm happy to give a small Napa my business, the guys are knowledgeable and nice. I went to advanced auto on my way to napa this morning and the guy had no idea what I was talking about. He goes "um we got bolts over there" and pointed to an aisle. I left shaking my head, the guys there are something else. So tmrw is the day to fix the brakes!
|04-10-2010 08:58 AM|
|canoeman||Does it work, does it? Reading this was like watching a made for TV series, I want to know how it ends now. Please don't make mt buy the DVD set.|
|04-10-2010 08:51 AM|
|bato||thanks that helps a ton. I just called napa and he said he has a bunch of different ones that will probably work, I'm gonna bring the caliper in with me in about 10 minutes. Thanks!|
|04-10-2010 08:23 AM|
|04-10-2010 08:01 AM|
|bato||It was $5.49 for the rebuild kit. It's all together, seal i, piston pushed in, dust boot on. I'm ready to put it back on the Jeep but I lost the banjo bolt that connects the brake line to the back of the caliper. My pants have a hole in the pocket and guess where I put the bolt when I took it off.|
|04-10-2010 12:36 AM|
|lykanjt||hmmm ... I dont know where you live but I did that to my caliper too when I changed my brake, I've tried to push it back in and gave up, then i brought it into autozone thinking im going to pay dearly, it's only $18.99 to get a new one. You bring back the core, the broken one, and they gave you a $17 credit, because it cost $35 without core. why waste another $10 on a rebuilt kit when adding $8.99 more and get a new one. That's just mine 2 cent, I dont know how much it cost where you're at and I dont know how cash strap are you, but hope it help.|
|04-09-2010 09:15 PM|
well thanks to you guys I got the caliper back together with new seals and all.
One problem... Somehow I lost the banjo bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper. Its too late to call auto zone so Is this something I can buy locally at a parts store or am I going to have to order one? This is the bolt with the hole in it to connect the line to the back of the caliper.
|04-07-2010 11:04 AM|
attach caliper to line, put it all back together - open bleeder screw on the drivers front to get the fluid down there...it should come on its own (this is called gravity bleeding). WATCH THE RESERVOIR, DO NOT LET IT EMPTY.
once you get fluid to the wheel tighten bleeder screw.
Now start the pressure bleeding process which as stated above will require 2 ppl. (unless you buy a fancy gadget that I advise you avoid buying).
RR, LR, RF, LF.
did I mention to watch the reservoir, if it goes dry you lose, and must start over, no passing Go, no $200.00
Damn that seal kit is cheap.
Don't worry too much about the old boot until you get the new kit in, and look at how the boot attaches, make sure that the new boot will be able to seal up properly (its there to protect that sensitive little seal.)
|04-07-2010 10:14 AM|
|bato||Yea I plan on bleeding all four thats not a problem, just wondering if I should flush out all the old fluid before I fill the resevoir and everything back up. The front driver side line is empty but I'm sure theres plenty of fluid in the other 3 lines. are all dot 3 fluids compatable or should I flush the whole system before adding new|
|04-07-2010 09:59 AM|
|jpdocdave||you will need to bleed all four wheels, you'll need an assistant|
|04-07-2010 09:56 AM|
The reservoir under the hood is empty and I took off the drivers side caliper and that line is empty. When I get it all back together do I need to drain the other 3 lines to get all the old fluid out before I add new brake fluid? Can i just hook it back up, fill up the reservoir, and pump the brakes until there full of fluid then bleed?
|04-07-2010 08:25 AM|
|jpdocdave||ya, the boot protects the seal. you do wanna get as much of the old boot out, just pick at it and maybe wire brush, just don't score up the bore or o ring sealing surface.|
|04-07-2010 07:13 AM|
Don't quite on me yet guy!
anyone have an answer/ suggestion to the above post?
|04-06-2010 12:40 PM|
Thank you Adkjoe I just ordered the set from napa, should be here in 2 days. Also thanks for the procedure that helps a lot. Don't worry I'm not beating myself up, I enjoy doing this stuff, just a learning process.
Here's where I'm at. I had a break in between the rain so I went out and took the caliper off the line to bring it inside. I took out the seal inside, it had a good nick in it. The boot was also in rough shape. I ordered a new seal and boot kit. For the time being i'm trying to get the boot out of the bore. It's glued in there REALLY well. I took a gasket scraper and cut some of it off but it's stuck to the inside of the bore. Any suggestions on how to get it nice and clean? How important is it to get it all out, it's the seal that holds the fluid in not the boot correct? It's stuck to the rusty rim.
|04-06-2010 09:59 AM|
Just to help some more, the napa part # for the caliper seal boot kit is UP 1473, it's $5.49 that's as cheap of a mistake your ever going to make
One more thing, when you put the piston back in the caliper make sure you coat the piston with brake fluid so it's lubricated when you slide it into the bore.
|04-06-2010 09:54 AM|
What he said!
One note. Bleed until you think all the air is out and then bleed some more.
Definitely bleed the entire system.
Don't beat yourself up. The way I have always looked at it is "if nobody got injured and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to fix then its not worth getting upset over." I'm a fairly relaxed person due to my "I don't give a shit" attitude. As they say "don't sweat the small stuff". Sometimes its difficult not to be mad at yourself, but I can guarantee that you won't do it again. so it was a lesson learned.
This is a fantastic forum with a bunch of nice people on it. I'd say the vast majority love helping others out. Good luck, and rock on
|04-06-2010 09:39 AM|
Been there done that Bato, don't feel bad! You have a good attitude about it and you learned a valuable lesson. Take the caliper off the brake line since theirs already air in the system and the pistons out it will be easier to work on. Check the seal and feel for nicks, cracks etc... if your lucky this might not cost you anything but time and some brake fluid. If the seal is bad they have a boot seal kit at napa for $5.49
Push the boot down so its flat and put the piston in the bore STRAIGHT. Take an old brake pad and put it in the piston. Use a c-clamp to slowly compress the piston making sure its going in straight (very important unless you want to buy a new caliper, trust me) once it's in put the boot in the groove around the edge of the piston. Put in your new brake pads, connect the caliper back to the line and put it on the rotor. Fill your reservoir up and pump the brakes a few times until they become solid and filled with fluid again. Helps to have a friend adding fluid while you pump the brakes. after the fluid stops going down have a beer your almost done. Then start with the passenger rear (farthest from the master cylinder) and bleed all four brake lines. After that you should be rockin and then have another beer cause you just fixed your mistake.
If you need help bleeding the lines just ask, we will point you in the right direction.
|04-05-2010 08:26 PM|
chalk it up to learning experience, never apply the brake when a caliper isn't together, never add or let any idiot quick lube add brake fluid. and if you can't get it figured out, reman calipers are not hard to find for 20 bux.
|04-05-2010 07:22 PM|
|04-05-2010 05:32 PM|
I really appreciate the advice/help, and I appreciate you guys not tearing me apart for doing something I'm kicking myself for. I'm a patient person and if I didn't screw things up from time to time I would never know what not to do
Anyone know if a rebuilt kit is something you can get at Napa or AZ or is that something I need to order? It's going to rain so I'm done for the day (need to drink some beer after this anyhow) but I'll get back at it and check my seal for nick's this week before I take another crack at it. I think I'm going to try and fix this one instead of buying a new calliper, don't care about the money but I need to make myself feel human again and accomplish this.
|04-05-2010 05:20 PM|
sounds like a good plan IMO.
feel the seal, if its nick free and not hard/dried up it just might work
good luck with it. and take your time, since you aren't on the clock no reason to get too excited.
|04-05-2010 05:19 PM|
|04-05-2010 05:16 PM|
|Bignuke||That might work. Good luck!!|
|04-05-2010 05:14 PM|
Great video. That looks easy. I think I know what I have to do, I don't think it will be to bad. As you can tell i'm not a mechanic but I'm learning, just F'ed up here a bit lol.
How do I know if I even need to rebuild it with the seal and boot mine might be fine. I think I'm going to take the calliper off the brake line, clean it up, maybe put a new seal in it, push it back in, hook it up, refill the cylinder, and bleed them. What do you guys think?
|04-05-2010 05:04 PM|
|baja||make sure there are no nicks in the seal.if it started hard then it might have shaved the seal abit.I just put a new caliper on my zr2-50$ food for thought.I don't like repacking them either.Be patient and put the piston back in gently-just a little force and it should slide right back in for you.Spray everything down with brake clean when you are done and check your caliper periodically,you don't want that thing leaking,any paint it touches will be history.Good luck its beer thirty!|
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|