|11-15-2013 12:32 PM|
You're absolutely correct - it all depends on how the OP wants to build his rig - I'm trying to give him another viewpoint.
Aside from the other advantages of SOA, if you just want to net 3.5" of lift, there might be easier and less expensive ways to do it.
|11-15-2013 11:30 AM|
|The Silver Gorilla||I live in Florida so no mountain trails. I do a lot of budding and woods trails, iv also done some dune climbing. So i could do a t case drop cuz clearance isn't a huge issue|
|11-15-2013 11:23 AM|
I would personally still prefer a motor mount lift over a transfer case drop for improving driveline angles. But we all build our Jeeps to make ourselves happy...
|11-15-2013 10:43 AM|
|Wombat Ranger||Because you can fit bigger tires with it and get more flex. Those are great reasons to do spring overs. And last I checked a spring over nets 5"+ of lift, so 1 1/2" of tcase drop doesn't 'ruin' the ground clearance gain. I would not do a tcase drop on my rig because I wheel tight mountain trails. But there is nothing wrong with someone else doing what they need to do to get the job done.|
|11-15-2013 07:29 AM|
|11-15-2013 07:21 AM|
|StanF||What am I missing? Please explain why you would go SOA for more ground clearance, and then add a TC drop that reduces your ground clearance?|
|11-15-2013 05:36 AM|
|Mowrangler||My t/c drop war actually done with longer bolts and sections of heavy pipe about 1.5 inches long.|
|11-15-2013 04:24 AM|
|87YJnTX||cheapest way I have found for a T case drop is to remove one bolt, go get 1 to 2 inch longer ones, and add in a nut between frame and skid plate.....cost me less than $10|
|11-15-2013 12:14 AM|
Like some have mentioned - it can be done relatively cheap. I have seen many done on the cheap, and I have seen many done not so cheap.
Pick your poison. What I mean by that is - be savvy with your decisions and build plan. I assist folks with build plans regularly. I lay out the basics, and talk with them about what I feel is important according to what they mention to me are there end goals & budget, then go from there.
It can be a long weary process. In the end - if I know they want to cut a corner that I know is going to give them headaches, (IE: use a cut down drive shaft out of an XJ in an application that guarantees bind & a grenaded drive shaft) I'll inform them of the potential outcome or inevitable outcome & let them pick there poison.
If they want to play in the big rocks (think of Johnson Valley/Hammers trails) and want to run stock steering with just a DPA on an SOA rig, they are setting themselves up for a horrible day not just for them self, but for whoever else is with them. In other words - it needs to be a good game plan for where you want to play on a regular basis.
When you've done this long enough, time & time again, you learn what works well & what's an inferior way of doing things. It can be a real can of worms if not planned out correctly. I have seen it all too often & have fixed more screwed-up Jeeps then I can remember.
|11-14-2013 10:08 PM|
|The Silver Gorilla||hmm, i starting to really see this coming more and more into focus, once i get some money issue done with, iim a start looking around for parts.|
|11-14-2013 05:34 PM|
|harleydragon||I would make some blocks to drop the transfer case 1 -1 1/2 inch..you may need a driveshaft 1 or 1 1/2 inches longer..I would also build a traction bar if I planned to romp on it at all..I personally wouldn't worry about the high steer|
|11-14-2013 02:23 PM|
|The Silver Gorilla||Rusty's YJ Wrangler Spring Over Axle Kit so i found this kit, has a lot that i might need, but i might also add a high steering kit. Is there anything else i could be missing?|
|11-14-2013 02:04 PM|
|The Silver Gorilla||
|11-14-2013 08:26 AM|
|11-13-2013 07:13 PM|
|The Silver Gorilla||
|11-13-2013 02:30 PM|
|11-13-2013 01:02 PM|
|11-13-2013 12:12 PM|
|Ibuildembig||Read the sticky, that's the most efficient way to do it IMO|
|11-13-2013 11:42 AM|
|theYeti||The guy in the first post mentioned that you need a steering upgrade. You don't. Get a drop pitman arm from a Cherokee (stock pitman arm) and maybe an s link drag link and you'll be fine as long as you don't plan on racing. New perches , brake lines, and extended drive shaft is all you need. Get the anti wrap perches to help against axle wrap. Some vehicles get it an some don't. Axle wrap can happen soa or sua. A drop t case kit might be helpful as well. Just depends on. How big you plan to go.|
|11-13-2013 07:11 AM|
|harleydragon||I grew up on the farm helping build and modify farm equipment to meet our needs.As I grew up and started building choppers,at that time there was not a tremendous amount of custom parts available and usually I couldn't afford them anyway.By the time I started screwing with jeeps I owned my own fabrication and welding business.So,while aftermarket parts might have been available it was already second nature to me to build my own custom parts.When I first did spring overs on willys and cj's,I built my own spring perches,driveshafts,traction bars,drop limiting chains,body lift brackets,modified and fabed frontend parts and anything else needed. I bought very little.It did take a lot of time and a little trial and error,especially on the first couple.But,I ended up with machines that performed great on and off road..Many talk about all these big dollar figures to do a spring over and swear that your machine will not handle as it should unless you spend it.That is just not so.If you understand mechanics,can fabricate and don't mind doing all the work then you can build a great handling,spring over jeep without laying out a ton of cash..My green cj7 has a 350 putting out close to 400 horses and is sitting on 37 inch military good years.It will accelerate and handle in traffic like a 68 camaro SS.At 80 mph I just have my hand layed up on the steering wheel,not fighting it. It is a great daily driver and it has none of these high dollar parts that have been mentioned..Bottom line is,you can fabricate most anything that you set your mind to..|
|11-13-2013 02:00 AM|
SOA can be costly do the lift right heres what you will need....
1) Preaches for both front and rear
2) SYE and new rear driveshaft (recommended)
3) New U bolts
4) Stock springs can work but I have bent 3, one old and two new ones. Rubicon Express SOA springs are nice. Rancho 4044 springs you can stretch the front or rear 2in each.
5) Some type of steering upgrade, drop pit-man wont cut it you will need a high steer or knuckle over set up like Teraflex kit.
6) Shocks, cant order thse till you get your lift all dont and flexed out so you can measure for the right length.
7) Brake lines
8) Anti wrap bar/traction bar...not to be confused with trac bars that the YJs come with, btw those should be removed and scrapped.
9) Longer sway bar links/disco..I personally dont run a sway bar.
Might be missing something but I believe thats the list. All in all this lift cost me around $2400 and I can clear 37's with fenders.
|11-12-2013 11:10 PM|
|The Silver Gorilla||
When talking to a few of my real country friends, i was telling them how i am going to be putting new axles in once i find a front one. As we talked and he said how he would help me do a SOA lift as long as i paid for the wire for his gas welder, oh and a few beers. He was telling me that i wont need to replace anything to do a SOA lift, but from what iv heard on this forum you need to collect parts to do it. Just give me a little advice so i know if i can kill 2 birds with one stone when replacing these axles.