|06-20-2014 05:58 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Yeah I have been reading quite a few. I will check yours out as well! Thanks.|
|06-20-2014 03:44 PM|
|06-20-2014 03:38 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||That makes sense to me. I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get there. I have a lot of stuff to do. Hahaha.|
|06-20-2014 03:19 PM|
No, no issues with the finish yet. The one thing I considered was taking a flap disk to the bolts that go on the pin and angling them to allow the pins to sit angled, but it would be hard to get exactly right without messing up the threads.
For now l, I just left the pins a tad loose so they can angle which seems to be working fine
|06-20-2014 03:01 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||I see what you mean, the hole should be angled or something so the hole is flat. Any issues with rust or oxidation on the pins/clip? Daystar looks like it might have a slightly better finish.|
|06-20-2014 02:04 PM|
|06-20-2014 01:26 PM|
|06-20-2014 09:59 AM|
|kdilly||You are going to love the defender xc's. I just finished installing mine this week. What do you plan to do for hood restraints?|
|06-19-2014 08:03 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Made more progress on the skid. The spidertrax spacers are sittin in garage. My big order is waiting on the defenders gears and 1 other part to ship. Gettin impatient. Went to pull my hp30 but didn't come home with one. Looking for a 3.73 or up first at another yard or too before I go back and finish pulling the one we were one. Got some warm hubs for a friends cj7 and a master cylinder for my brothers truck however. Been working the past few days. Doubt this will get done for the rausch trip but I'm fine with that as I'm already plenty capable. Next year will be different.|
|06-12-2014 06:21 AM|
Got a little more done on the engine skid not much though. Need a drill bit for a hole for the LCA bolt to fit. I only have up to 1/2. I need to grab some angle too for my arm to the MM. And build that bracket as well. Not too much more there. Then final weld the skid and add some brace material. Then paint.
Welds were decent for being rusty but I ground them a little more flush because I only have my 3/16 (IIRC) rods right now and they were a little tall/ugly. Ill let the rocks shave the rest. The studs aren't going anywhere though. Engine skid fits nicely. It was fun getting the studs straight because the weld wants to pull them to that side. So I focused on straightness there not perfect welding. This project will be wrapped up soon.
Got my 1.25" spidertrax spacers in for the front to match the width I'll gain from the ultimate 88 in the rear I'll be ordering soon. Got a steal on them. And got a great quote from Dave's offroad supply on the ultimate 88 kit on pirate and will be ordering from him.
Artec truss and c gussets alloy USA HD balljoints gears and install kit and poison spider 3" defender xc and inners are on the way as well.
|06-10-2014 03:36 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||I don't have anything else done so no didn't buy tires yet just shopping around. I'm not worried about it. I was fine at 3.07s and 33s so 4.10 will be fine with any of the tires I choose.|
|06-09-2014 09:31 PM|
I thought you were ordered 37's. I went from 3.07 to 4.56 and were definitely to deep that's how I ended up with 36's.
I know you have a plan and so far it's turning out great. Just wanted to give you a heads up
|06-09-2014 09:09 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||3. I have 4.10s now with my 33s and they are too deep. I'm not sure if I'll end up on 35,36,or 37s. But they will be plenty. Stronger gears and less torque to break stuff with when you have 4.10s too.|
|06-09-2014 08:25 PM|
|Hums99||I know you have an auto but is it a 3 or 4 spd? Are 4.10's going to be low enough? I have 3 spd with 4.56 and 37's, I think I could almost go with 4.88's.|
|06-09-2014 09:43 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||I'm going sleeved trussed and gussetes cryod 4.10s etc, I don't think it will hold up without the added strength to prevent deflection and twisting the diff. I'm building with all new joints etc too. If its a 4.10 axle near pa I might consider though.|
|06-08-2014 08:00 PM|
|06-08-2014 07:20 PM|
Current game plan is a polished hp30 and stock shafts as a fuse with 36s and my light foot which has served me well so far.
Almost jumped on a set of narrowed 60s but I don't have the means or time to finish them or run them right. I can't run a much bigger tire either without doing major steering mods and stretch etc, at Least to my standards. The rest of the build will give me a jeep I can use and abuse for the next half a decade before I do the "dream build" and go all out.
|05-30-2014 12:39 PM|
|tkfx||40s on a front HP44 is very doable. I know multiple people who wheel with 40s on 44s without breaking anything. Ill be running 40s on my soon to be HP44 in the future.|
|05-30-2014 11:31 AM|
I've seen first hand that a HP44 can't handle 37" Pitbulls. It was trussed and locked with after market shafts and still bent and twisted them. Unless you have a light foot and no Pitbulls (which are an unforgiving tire) you will probably have troubles with 40's.
Now on the other hand I'm running 37" with HP30 with stock shafts without problems ( insert knock on wood) but I've been told I have a light foot.
I believe it to be mostly tire and how much they slip as to how much carnage you have. IMO.
|05-23-2014 11:33 PM|
The worlds shiniest hp30 or a hp44 narrowed to waggy with. Both would have RCVs sleeves trussed gussets cryod gears, the works. Hp30 is 1800ish hp44 is 3k. Plus some more for other stuff I want but wouldn't do right away. Hp44 can handle 40s, the 30 would top out around 36s or 37s with more maintenance. I will be doing a small front stretch as well.
Plan is to buy tires and lower my suspension and maybe BL height, outboard shocks and hiline. Then enjoy. And lock the rear finally + super 8.8.
|05-23-2014 10:19 PM|
|05-23-2014 04:59 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Been working on an engine skid out of some steel I had sitting around. Trying to decide which direction to take the build... Can't pull the trigger though. I know the end product I want but I'm hung up on the front axle (and the cost difference).|
|05-21-2014 11:10 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||And this is square tubing. The weak point is still at the bushing mounts and plate mounts and those will flex way more than the tube no matter the thickness. So I decided to save a few dollars and pounds and go with 3/16ths.|
|05-21-2014 10:58 AM|
|elclipo||Thank you sir. I agree it would be overkill as most skid plates are only 3/16s.|
|05-21-2014 10:03 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||Yes 2x2, but I believe that it was 3/16th thick. 1/4 will work fine but I believe that's a little overkill.|
|05-21-2014 09:02 AM|
|elclipo||Hey Ryan, What's the size of your crossmember tubing? Is it 2x2x.25? I have the crossmember kit now in my possession and want to go get the rest soon.|
|05-10-2014 11:14 AM|
|Medixtj01||Thanks for all the help. I was looking at doing something like yours. I would rather fab something than buy it off the shelf. And I'm on a high school kid budget so your way is cheaper. So I'll probably be getting a BL when/if I do the tuck|
|05-10-2014 11:10 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||No worries man. I used a BL but it's possible to do it without. If you're buying off the shelf they have ones that require one and some that don't. Mine is custom and completely flat which is why I needed the body lift. If I wanted to hammer on the tub a little I could and reduce it which I am considering. It really depends on the setup you want. So, you can tuck without a body lift. But for some tucks you do need one. Unless you're going the extra mile to not have it.|
|05-10-2014 09:54 AM|
|Medixtj01||Hi Ryan did you need a body lift to tuck it or could you do it without one? Sorry for all the questions.|
|05-08-2014 04:37 PM|
|Medixtj01||Ok. Thanks for the help|
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