|06-02-2010 03:49 PM|
1) I agree buying a new axle and replacing the D35 with a D44 would be a good idea. I'd suggest you see if you can get it with a selectable locker instead of the Detroit though - like an ARB. It would be a little pricier but I think you'd be happier if you could disengage it when it's not needed. Remember you still have to re-gear the front D30 the same as the rear. Adding a locker or Limited Slip Diff (LSD) would be up to you.
2) The D35 is a pretty weak axle. It is probably more likely break with 33s, especially if locked, and if you do anything more than mild to moderate offroading than the D44. That's not to say the 44 can't be broken though.
3)Yes as long as they are geared the same.
4) With a 5 speed 6cyl I would go with 4.56
5) The higher the spline count the stronger the shaft. I think the increase cost is due to the higher spline not the lower gear ratio.
|06-02-2010 03:05 PM|
|06-02-2010 02:52 PM|
Again its a 2004 X 5 speed manual 4''pro comp lift with 33'' pro comp tires.
1) I know I need to re-gear for sure. I have given thought into adding a locker as well, but at that point shouldn't i just buy a full new axle like the "Dana Model 44 Rear Axle Assembly by G2" that comes with...
* 1997-06 TJ Wrangler
* Detroit locker
* G2 30 spline axle shafts
* G2 4.56 gears
$2,245 + labor
2) How much of a gain is it from a D35 to a D44?
3) Is it fine to run D30 in front and D44 in rear?
4) What gears should i run? Ive heard everything from 4.10, 4.11, 4.56, and 4.88.
5) what exactly is the difference between 30 and 33 spline axle shafts?
why would the "Dana Model 44 Rear Axle Assembly by G2" with 33 spline axle shafts with 4.10 gears be more expensive?
Thanks to everyone for help im new to this and want to build it right the first time around and have no regrets.
|06-02-2010 01:51 PM|
And welcome to WF!
|06-02-2010 01:11 PM|
|Russ13||cool, thanks again|
|06-02-2010 12:07 PM|
Towing I don't know. That's a different animal than street cruising or offroad. I've never towed with a chipped Jeep before.
I'll take an educated guess and say a chip won't cut it. It's one thing pushing big tires, it's another pushing big tires...with a trailer. I could be wrong though, but that's my guess. Gears might be the best for that.
The high octane programs are great in TJ's. You guys are correct however in saying the JK 3.8 does better than the 4.0 when responding to that chip. It's true. I wouldn't say TJ's don't benefit though. I'd chip a TJ without second thought for more streetability.
Towing though I'm not sure.
|06-02-2010 11:32 AM|
|Russ13||That's what I have read so far today GMINTON...|
|06-02-2010 11:31 AM|
From what I've read from other people, the superchips help newer JK's tremendously.
On TJ's it only really helps throttle response, and thats about it. Everyone says they are a waste of money for TJ and older.
|06-02-2010 11:24 AM|
|Russ13||I just need some extra nuts when towing my boat. My wrangler is manual tran. Will this superchip help??|
|06-02-2010 10:55 AM|
Quadratech and 4wd are good places to start. I'd reccomend Superchips. They seem to be the best ones at it. $300-330 is a good price.
If you've got an automatic the power gains are pretty noticable. The speedometer gets corrected, as well as the trans shift points. Just those 2 things go a long way in gaining power back. You'll gain noticable acceleration due to engine timing changes. So manuals do benefit from programmers. The power with either transmission is noticeable, but it's no turbo or supercharger. It feels like you gain about 10hp or so. Mostly in the lower gears. I'll honestly say a chipped Jeep FEELS like it's got lower gears under 50mph. Acceleration is the most noticable improvement, so if your looking for top end speed and/or your final gear back...it might not do it.
Also keep in mind you'll never get that "stock feel" back. Nothing, not even gears correct the fact your pushing heavy tires and the aerodynamics of the empire state building.
I always reccomend chips. If it works, great...you just saved yourself over a grand. If it doesn't fullfill your power needs, regear...and being chipped will make your new gears run even better. You can't lose.
|06-02-2010 08:36 AM|
GroundHawg = Were is a good source for a chip? Summit Racing?? Also how much improvement will I see if I install a chip??
|06-02-2010 07:49 AM|
The gears you want is going to depend on how you drive and where you live. 4.11 is the cheap answer you'll get for 33's. If you live at high elevations or in a hilly area, go 4.88. Another thing is to ask yourself "is 33" the biggest I'm going to go?" because if you think you'll go to 35's, you'll have to gear again. Gears are so expensive, you'll only want to do it once.
Another thing to think about is the offroad activity. Rock Crawlers should be geared a tad lower to get a nice slow crawl ratio and a little more muscle with little to no gas pedal. Mudders should get a little higher for high rpm's at lower speeds.
For 33's I would suggest no lower than 4.11, no higher than 5.13. That leaves you with those ratios and 4.88.
4.11 really is the best ratio for daily driving, mudding, and most areas of the country. West Virginia, Colorado, etc I'd probably want 4.88. If you're climbing rocks with a trail rig that sees no street use, go with the 5.13. If you might get 35's go 4.88 with the 33's.
I'm in Ohio, flat. I've got 4.11 with 35's. It's fine. I drive in western PA frequently, it's hilly. The 4.11's are still ok, and I play in rocks in occasion. I'll chip my rig soon for a little power boost, but it's not bad. 4.11 with 33's will be great most places.
|06-02-2010 12:12 AM|
|06-01-2010 11:56 PM|
Is $800-$1400 for each front and back or for both? And as i understand you can upgrade rear axle without doing front correct? D44 axle run about $2,300?
|06-01-2010 11:46 PM|
|06-01-2010 11:38 PM|
I6 = inline 6 cylinder engine "the 4.0L''
NV3550 = New Venture 3550 model....it is the name of the transmission.
The underpowerment is due to the tire size and stock gearing.
If it is completely clean...original..(no engine replacement) or anything else. Yes it will sell at 16.5k. But it is altimately up to you and if it is what you want. Just gear replacement front and rear (((yes you have to do both))) will set you back $800 to $1400 depending on the installer. With 33's you should really look into upgrading from a D35 to a D44 or Super 35 kit from superior.
Engine "mod's" on the 4.0L are not much of any improvement. A stroker motor or V8 is the only real motor mods for real gains.
|06-01-2010 11:32 PM|
[QUOTE=distortedtj;641438]The 2004, I6 manual trans is the NV3550.
New to this...what exactly does that mean?
And I understand its a brick and im not trying to fly down the highway at 80, but ive driven jeep before and this was by far the most underpowered. I just want to be able to cruise at 70 without it being floored.
I am in the debating process of buying it. It has low miles (8,600), lift, tires, winch, rear rack, and looks beautiful. But engine completely stock. A good foundation to build upon. I realize im going to be sinking money into the performance right off the bat. Is $16,500 too much to pay?
|06-01-2010 11:19 PM|
The 2004, I6 manual trans is the NV3550.
NV3550 - 2000-2004
5 speed manual
Used with 6 cyl models
10 spline input
23 spline output
1st - 4.01
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.39
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.78
Rev - 3.57
With that trans and 33's , 4.56 is a good ratio.
Always remember though. A wrangler is a brick on wheels. They just don't perform as a car when accelerating. And never will.
|06-01-2010 11:11 PM|
Look on the rear diff cover at the 9 o'clock postion,,,there should be a tag held on by the diff cover bolts. Stamped into the tag is the factory gear ratio.
|06-01-2010 11:05 PM|
|06-01-2010 11:01 PM|
2) Little to no improvement for any of them.
Again best is gearing for the much larger tire size.
|06-01-2010 10:59 PM|
Here are the "specials" of the willy's edition....
Water resistant Camo and black seats
Unique "WILLYS" decal at cowl side
Diamond plate rocker guards painted Dark Green
Body-color fender flares
AM/FM stereo radio with CD player and seven speakers (includes subwoofer in center console) - no extra charge
4.0L Power Tech I-6 engine
Full-size spare tire with matching wheel
Basicly...stickers, color matched flairs/green softtop and the camo seats...everything else is also an option of any other wrangler model.
|06-01-2010 10:54 PM|
Here is a link to axle identification...... http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-l...ion-50307.html
Welcome to the forum.
|06-01-2010 10:53 PM|
Gearing for the 33's will depend on your transmission...is it an auto or manual?
Also to check what the rear axle is just look at it....oval shaped center section and a rubber fill plug it is a D35
More Hexagon shaped and metal fill plug it is a D44.
PS...most ALL willys editions came stock with a D35 rear. But still check.
|06-01-2010 10:48 PM|
|Mgahan||Id rather do things right and start with the big stuff and work my way down to the small stuff. So if I plan on staying with the 33'' should i go 3.73, 4.10, or 4.88? Is 4.88 overkill or will it only increase performance? Also what does an axle upgrade run? Dana 35? Dana 44?|
|06-01-2010 09:21 PM|
Sounds to me like she's needs some lower gears. This is the correct, and most costly way to correct the issue.
Another option is a chip. It's much cheaper than gears, and will get you some power back, but not as much as gears.
Don't even bother with the exhaust systems and intakes. They do next to nothing for ANY of the Jeep engines. It's a waste of money.
Gears are $1000-2000
this is common when upgrading to larger tires.
|06-01-2010 09:12 PM|
So I have been in the market for a Wrangler for a few months now. I found a 2004 Willy edition 4.0L with 4'' pro comp lift and 33'' pro comp tires with 8,800 miles, practically brand new. The only problem is I drove it and it felt way under powered and bogged down, especially in the higher gears on the highway. I had a hard time keeping it at 60 mph.
1) Is that normal for a stock (Wrangler X) with 4'' lift and 33'' tires?
2) What are some solutions, price, and expected gains (exhaust, chip, gears, axle, air intake, ext.)?
Thanks for all suggestions