|08-28-2010 12:47 AM|
|88YJPostal||To the guy with the Carb for sale ...Is your weber still for sale?|
|06-07-2010 12:52 AM|
I do it all. . . . None of my cars ever see a shop(except for alignment or tire installs). . .
This is my 1st 4x4 so it is somewhat new to me. But, I have worked on anything and everything(pretty much).
I have not worked on a carbed card over a decade.
|06-06-2010 10:17 PM|
all the carbs we are talking about use a adapter plate to bolt them on , but once you get them jetted right and fuel air set and no vacuum leaks the difference between stock and a mc 2100 or weber is unbelievable .
the gains you get are well worth the time and money.
but do the nutter by pass first .
it is free and will give you instant results.
do you do your own wrenching on your jeep ?
|06-06-2010 02:32 PM|
I don't think it's internal at all. . . .
It runs pretty damn good when warmed up. Just hard to start if you don't do it the "special" way and use to miss a bit while idling. But, after I adjusted the carb it idles smooth after warmed up.
|06-06-2010 02:15 PM|
|wivelljeep90||it could also be your cam gear broke a few teeth off of it.. this happened to my 90 and it threw it out of time and ran like crap i fixed that and it ran fine ever since|
|06-06-2010 01:40 PM|
Cool, looked at the link for the de-nutering. . . Looks nice and simple, should get this thing to run a bit better.
I knew this POS feed back carb was causing some of these issues.
The stocker carb on here looks pretty decent otherwise, might be a reman. . . Looks real clean and does not leak. . . .
|06-06-2010 10:03 AM|
|samson_420||I didn't know other carbs were a direct fit. . . What specific ones can I use?|
|06-06-2010 09:35 AM|
Here is the info on how to do the nutter by pass http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/p...bypass-476720/
and i prefer the mc 2100 with the 1.08 vent
and if you do go with a mc i can send you the set up instructions by fax or e-mail.
the stock carter carb is a pain but if you do the nutter by pass and set the metering rods and air-fuel it will work better until you get a new carb.
But do the nutter by pass first no matter what carb you go with.
it will make a hugh difference. the motor will rev out faster , smoother and farther
you will get better mpg and it will start a lot better.
And if you add a cdi dist. with goo plug wires then you will have a very smooth running motor.
feel free to give me a call no matter what you go with if you need help .
|06-06-2010 08:58 AM|
|windsoreight||The nutter and rush mods will not make much difference on your carb issues. The nutter should be done though. It elminates the computer from controlling the timing. I would go with the motorcraft swap or holley 350 swap. I am not a fan of the webers. The motorcraft and holley have few parts are are very simple to tinker with.|
|06-06-2010 08:52 AM|
Can't find crap on the nuter bypass. . . . Hmmmm
As far as the distributor upgrade. . . Is there a list of components I need somewhere on here?
|06-06-2010 04:31 AM|
|Vector6||i have a Weber 32/36 DGEV for sale, it's ready to bolt on and run|
|06-06-2010 02:57 AM|
|mameyj||I got my yj with the weber already on it so i cant compare, but my jeep idles really smooth and starts right up, if you do get the weber i recommend you also do the nuter bypass and the team rush upgrade did it to mine and was a big improvement.|
|06-06-2010 12:41 AM|
I seem to have kind of a hard start issue on my 88. It is carburated with a stocker 2 barel. And it just seems like it is holding it back. It starts rough, runs rough and I cant figure it out.
Fuel pressure is good and steady, the carb does not leak. Yet it idles like ass and accelerates like a 72 VW Bus.
I seen the Weber carburator upgrade kits with the air filter and linkage pieces. Is that the way to go?
Everything else seems damn decent so far.
P.S. It tops out at 70 MPH and just feels like it can't pull any faster, can the carb be the issue?