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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-06-2010 05:21 PM
EdJonesJeeper Should I have any kind of tolerance at all once the shafts are bolted into the housing of the D44? Passenger side has less than a millimeter of play in and out. Heard loud pop this morning on my way to work from the rear passenger side. Thought it might have been track bar frame bolt b/c its under pressure from the sye kit and RE's track-bar re-locator but doesn't seem to be the problem.

I had trouble getting the "locking collar?" pressed on top of the bearing of the shafts. 1st one popped going on, I'm hoping this one didn't pop going in a turn.
07-06-2010 12:11 PM
Jerry Bransford For budget shocks, Skyjacker's Hydro shocks are liked by a lot of people. The ES-9000 number doesn't mean they were designed for a 9000 lb. vehicle though it might seem like it from their stiff ride. Same with ProComp's ES-3000, that shock is well known for its notoriously stiff ride too.
07-06-2010 11:27 AM
EdJonesJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yes, ProComp's ES3000 and ESPECIALLY their ES9000 shocks are well known to give a very stiff ride. Who talked youi into the ES9000? Those are normally only installed on big heavy trucks.

I would certainly run them can-side up to fix the problem, I can't see that particular shock giving any problem run like that.
4wheelparts.com guy. They were cheapest shocks they had at the time. Are those for 9000lb vehicle? What shocks on a budget would u recommend?
07-01-2010 04:22 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdJonesJeeper View Post
Thanks lanecetkenyon and Jerry! I am borrowing a die grinder from a fellow Jeeper and thought of taken it to the buckets but I am running the procomp es9000 shocks. I think I'd rather flip the shocks. Will the procomps give me any probs? I haven't been too fond of their performance (extremly stiff ride).
Yes, ProComp's ES3000 and ESPECIALLY their ES9000 shocks are well known to give a very stiff ride. Who talked youi into the ES9000? Those are normally only installed on big heavy trucks.

I would certainly run them can-side up to fix the problem, I can't see that particular shock giving any problem run like that.
07-01-2010 02:01 PM
lancetkenyon Not really. D60 front is 70 WMS and rear is 66 WMS. The Cherokee in the background has a 609 front at 64" WMS and a 14 bolt rear at 63" WMS.

07-01-2010 10:21 AM
EdJonesJeeper Killer. Is that a jeep width d60? Rig looks awesome.
07-01-2010 09:24 AM
lancetkenyon Here was my D44 when I swapped in the D60. You can see the rear of the coil buckets cut off. Ran them for about 5 years that way with 0 issues. Then I raised the rear shock mounts up on the tube to clear bigger rocks, so that eliminated the problem too.



Here is my current rear D60 coil bucket.





06-30-2010 09:20 PM
EdJonesJeeper Thanks lanecetkenyon and Jerry! I am borrowing a die grinder from a fellow Jeeper and thought of taken it to the buckets but I am running the procomp es9000 shocks. I think I'd rather flip the shocks. Will the procomps give me any probs? I haven't been too fond of their performance (extremly stiff ride).
06-30-2010 06:41 PM
Jerry Bransford Well I'm flattered but there are any number of people here that give great advice, Lancetkenyon above already having proven himself as being a great source of tech info.

On the shocks being dented, that is due to the axle being rotated for a CV driveshaft which moves the shocks in closer to the axle tube. You can do one of several things to fix that... 1) flip the shocks upside down so the strut is at the bottom. That will give the added clearance you need. Most shocks work fine mounted in either direction, only a few don't. The many shocks I ran can-up on my last TJ all worked fine mountd in that direction. Or 2), as Lance suggests, you can simply grind additional clearance on the lower spring bucket. However, I would not install any type of aftermarket shock extender bracket which just provides enough added leverage against the mount weld to tear the lower shock mount away from the axle tube.

Regarding the control arm lengths, they are identical between the TJ versions of the D44 and D35c. The axles even use the exact same tube diameters (thickness too) so there are zero dimensional changes for the brackets on the D35c vs. D44. Examine the axle end of the control arm brackets, they are known to bend or tear away from where they are welded to the axle tube. Either of those can cause the control arm length to look wrong.
06-30-2010 04:23 PM
lancetkenyon Cut the back of the coil buckets off. Common issue with a lift on a Jeep. Or youcould cut off the shock mounts and rotate them up.

Your CAs should be the same length, unless a bracket is bent. Looks like the RE arms, so just adjust them evenly and reinstall.
06-29-2010 09:23 PM
EdJonesJeeper
How bout' this thread..."aaahh Jerry Help!!!!"

The know all, be all, God of the Jeep threads that has done it before... probably twice and gives the best advice of anyone.

I've hope I've only flattered the beast.

Jerry i'm doin the d44 swap on my tj and from what I can tell the track bar is pulling the upper driver side control arm further away than passenger side. About a half an inch.

Or is it? Does the driver side control arm for the d44 need to be longer by half an inch?

Oh and the spring hanger on the axle pushed both shocks and dented them. What problems am I going to be looking for with that?

Sorry pics are blurry but trust me it's half an inch.Attachment 21091

Attachment 21092

Attachment 21090

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