|12-24-2013 02:19 PM|
I did fab up a small truss to put on my long tube also. Nothing special just a bent piece of DOM with some metal that was laying around.
So my setup is knock in sleeves ( that required a huge press and 50,000psi to press them into my bent axle) and a small throw togher truss. C gusset of courses and a RR diff cover. My axle probably sees way more abuse then most and so far nothing has bent any more.
|12-24-2013 02:10 PM|
|JKralph||WT, I remember a while back (maybe a long while back) you talking about putting a small truss up front, what ever became of that?|
|12-24-2013 02:04 PM|
|12-24-2013 01:55 PM|
|12-24-2013 01:45 PM|
|JKralph||even if you're removing the knuckles and shafts, there's the additional time of drilling all the plug weld holes in the axle tubes...assuming we're still talking about the weld-in sleeves|
|12-24-2013 01:42 PM|
|12-24-2013 01:26 PM|
|WatchThis!||If you do a weld in sleeve it is way more work. You can weld a truss up without tearing the axle down. You dont have that option with sleeves.|
|12-24-2013 12:34 PM|
Isn't welding the Artec truss more involved than sleeves? I should probably check to see what my 4x4 shop would charge but I thought the cost of installation would be substantially more.
Also, how advisable is it do both sleeves and truss? I already have sleeves and gussets on my D30.
|12-24-2013 10:38 AM|
|12-24-2013 09:46 AM|
|12-24-2013 09:35 AM|
The numbers below are from a post of mine from a year ago but the prices should be close. I had flipped back and forth on how I was going to beef up my axle when I went with 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec armor was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.
Well . . .
Looking at Synergy parts, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.
And that brings the total to $200.
So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?
Some friends helped my with my Artec kit. I also decided to upgrade my ball joints at the same time (which I recommend).
Went from wimpy to bunches of beefy goodness.
|12-24-2013 08:49 AM|
The only locker ARB makes for the D44 front is a 35spline unit and the weld in sleeves have to small of an I.D. to slide a 35spline shaft in. Something to think about when deciding what to go with.
|12-24-2013 06:29 AM|
|12-24-2013 03:15 AM|
|12-23-2013 06:59 PM|
When we did the fronts we took it all apart and welded the truss on to the axle on a table away from the truck.
We did that one in a driveway.
The second time I did it, I did the rear at Rock Krawler in NY State. I had them putting the coilovers in and asked that they do the rear truss. If anyone's rigs cannot fail on the trail, its these guys.
Nate welded it on, in about an hour. brushed the paint laid the truss on in the rear, and zipped it on faster than I expected.
When he was done, I asked if my gears were melted because they were still in there when he worked. He laughed at me. Thats about 1500 miles ago now.
I've come to think we are more delicate with this stuff than we need to be.
|12-23-2013 03:53 PM|
The entire Artec kit is like $250 shipped
- Ca skids
- Upper and lower gussets
- track bar mount (stock or raised)
I already replaced the ball joints but we are doing Currie bushings as well. We are pulling the axle
|12-23-2013 12:06 PM|
This is one I did off the vehicle I do ALOT on the rigs.....I did my last 2 on rig...this is typically the build I do for myself as far as this exact set up....
Sleeves, gussetts, synergy HD control arm pockets, Artec track bar bracket, spring retainers, relocated shock mounts, synergy ball joints........
Yes I keep stock bj in this one just cause I didn't get around d to swapping them yet.
Cool rag for top ball joints a little wet, slow weld a smidge and cool it, continue till top section is done.
I sold the fig I run miller 251 mig,,,,love this machine.
Truss take it slow go from side to side and end to end switching it up don't burn big runs. As far as housing get a tor h and preheat it up where your going to weld small areas either use a temp gun or get it hot ie around 400 degrees and then proceed to weld the points at which the mesh will be close enough and get good penetration.
|12-23-2013 08:02 AM|
Brut, a few questions regarding the sleeve/truss work...
I take it you disassembled the entire rear prior to welding. But I still see the factory ball joints left in. With their Teflon sleeves, is there a worry about the heat from nearby welding?
Was the cast carrier portion preheated and post weld cooled when welded? Did you use a different filler rod for either the cast carrier area or the forged 'C' ends? Did you Mig the whole thing or Tig any of it?
|12-22-2013 11:48 PM|
Sleeves : pretty much the same for weld in Terraflex or synergy I use all synergy for jobs.
Trusses: Artec Industries makes a bomb proof unit that is nice install these only, there's others out there but love Artec.
I'd do control arm skids as well.....
Nitro makes a pound in sleeve but I'd opt for weld In.
Mine has sleeves and truss
|12-22-2013 10:06 PM|
to sleeve or to truss, that is the question
Okay, I got the lift, tires, bumpers, winch, and other goodies, now I need to beef up the d30....should I sleeve or truss? I am going to gusset the c's no matter what...but what should i go with and what brands do you recommend