|11-09-2013 10:16 AM|
|07-02-2013 04:17 AM|
|ThatWhiteMachine101||Thought I'd toss in my two cents. Did a brake cleaner transmission flush not 2 days ago and almost all my issues were resolved. It still grinds a little from time to time but at least I got my second gear back. It took me 30 minutes as I discovered the air pump used for airing up my camper air mattress just so happens to fit perfectly into the fill plug hole. 10 minutes of high rate of air blast later it was what I would consider acceptably dry as I didn't want to let my seals and gaskets dry out. But thanks again, work great!|
|09-03-2012 08:37 PM|
Update on my Transmission. after a short period all the same nonsense returned....so the step son has just been driving it, and starting in 2nd, skipping 3rd...and it's tolerable.
Now I have to decide whether I rebuild/replace/sell/set fire to the transmission/Jeep. Step son now has pickup....so Jeep is now a "spare vehicle".
Considering replacing transmission w/ a "smart parts" new NV3550 off fleabay. And if I still hate shifting it, sell the Jeep, if I like it, keep the Jeep and move forward with mods I had considered 2 yrs ago.
just thought I'd update.
|07-30-2012 08:03 PM|
|07-30-2012 07:40 PM|
|mark2215||would this same flushing procedure be appropriate for my NSG370 that grinds going from first to second?|
|07-30-2012 12:20 PM|
|shanes04wrangler||nice, thanks for the info . yea i only have a prob with 1st in winter and reverse is some times a pain.|
|07-30-2012 11:54 AM|
NV3550 trans flush:
Drain transmission and clean magnetic drain plug.
Add approx 2 qts of kerosene to transmission (also read that parts cleaner works). I added until it started coming out the fill plug, like a normal change, just with kerosene.
Put t-case in Neutral, set e-brake.
Start engine, IDLE in every gear (including reverse) for 1 minute each. Turn off engine.
Drain transmission, clean magnetic drain plug.
Let transmission dry out. I left the plugs out while I did other things. I've read of people letting it sit overnight, but I found that jacking up the rear end of the Jeep after it was done dripping got a lot more out. After changing my diff fluid and doing some other things around the house, I noticed it was still wet when I put my finger in the drain plug and felt around, so I took my air compressor set around 30 lbs and a blow nozzle and held it about 5 inches away from the fill hole and blew into it until the drops stopped coming out of the drain.
Now it felt dry, so I filled it up with a little over 2 qts of Redline MTL.
Put the t-case back in 2H, took it for a spin, checked for leaks (none), better than new!
|07-30-2012 11:37 AM|
|shanes04wrangler||so if you flush with kerosene will you need to change the new fluid agin due to the kerosene residue? and my fluid looks new in my trans so should i even bother flushing it? i want to swap out for redline mtl since winter the trans wont go in 1st most the time.|
|04-24-2012 10:28 PM|
I had the RP synchromax in for a few years, then it started to grind again. I changed to Mopar oil around a month ago and it shifted into gears better without grinding, but then it was sticky shifting out of gears.
I thought it was the detent plunger sticking, so I pulled it out and greased it. It shifted out of each gear better for around 3 weeks, then started sticking again as I tried to shift out of gears.
I just drained the Mopar oil and did the kerosene flush. I used the Mopar oil again and now it's like butter. Both times I flushed it there was some micro metal slivers on the magnet.
I had already ordered a new detent plunger, so I went ahead and replaced it.
Thanks for posting this thread, hopefully I'll have a smooth tranny for another 100K.
|04-14-2012 10:52 AM|
For a 2000 and newer 4.0L TJ transmission, there are a few non-factory gear lubricants that perform well. In no particular order... Redline MTL, Royal Purple Synchromax, and Amsoil Synchromesh. All three of those are synthetics and all three perform well in those transmissions. They are not appropriate for 1999 and older 4.0L transmissions or the AX-5 used with the 2.5L engine.
Personally, I would not use GM Synchromesh or Pennzoil Synchromesh. Neither of those are synthetic (both are actually the same product made by Pennzoil) and neither receives universal good reports from everyone trying them. More than a few owners of 2000 and newer manual transmissions have reported poor results with those two products even though they technically meet the specifications for the NV3550 and NGS370 transmissions.
|04-14-2012 07:04 AM|
|00tj2||Update on my shifting... So I'm gettiing grinding going into 1st from a slow roll or complete stop.... I think it's time I check the slave cylinder? Once I do that I'm going to give it a flush and then go back to the only recommended fluid by jeep which happens to be their really expensive stuff...|
|04-14-2012 06:48 AM|
|Redsand||Don't use 10 30, use syncromesh|
|04-14-2012 03:17 AM|
My 72 cj was stuck in 2nd when i bought it years ago. I drained the gear lube filled it with diesel and drove it a few miles. Tranny started working flawlessly. I put another 50k on it before i crashed it with no issues. Diesel had more lubricating properties back then compaired to the new stuff. I guessing that's why the kerosene was used here. We are having some shifting problems so I think I'll give the kerosene and holy water a try. Do I add the holy water with the new 10 weight 30 or add it to the kerosene or both. Does auto zone sell HW? Or do I need to call a priest.
|04-13-2012 10:42 PM|
|04-13-2012 09:56 PM|
|sawick420||Wait, I am totally lost after 3 pages. Can I put 10W-30 in my NV3550? or is that just for the AX-15?|
|10-03-2011 07:16 AM|
I think there are a lot of varying reasons why people are having issues. No bottle of anything is going to add metal back on the surfaces. While the OE fluid could pose some issues for brass synchros over an extended time, more damage will be done by someone who just does not know how to shift properly.
Anyway, I suspect that some folks are having issues because their fluid is dirty and changing it to anything is going to be an improvement.
In my case, a fluid change showed positive results and matching the rpms a bit seems to make for silky smooth shifts. But that's just me.
|10-02-2011 06:36 AM|
|00tj2||Funny to hear that the synchromesh didn't fix some people's shifting problems. I was having grinding issues with the 1-2 up and down shifts and the min I put that yellow bottle in it fixed everything. From what I'm reading that might have the gl-5 additive which is bad but with 130k on my nv3550 I think I'll keep using it till it dies. Interesting thread to say the least.|
|10-01-2011 06:23 PM|
|WaterDR||Good point....I had my serviced at a Valvoline Quick Lube. Not sure what they used. Not overly concerned, as I have 130k on it, and will likely re-build the tranny soon anyway. I only put a few k on the jeep per year, but I am gonna check with Valvoline on the lube rating.|
|10-01-2011 03:12 PM|
No, Jeep did not change the spec from 10W-30 to 75W-90, it has been 75W-90 (GL-3 or GL-4) since day one.
Aisin, the manufacture of your AX-15 (AX-5 too), only added synthetic 10W-30 a couple years ago as another acceptable lubricant. 10W-30 engine oil and 75W-90 gear lube are very similar in actual viscosities since engine oils and gear lube are measured on two different viscosity scales. Aisin added synthetic 10W-30 as an acceptable lube after testing it because it's not easy to find acceptable 75W-90 gear lubes that are rated GL-4 (or GL-3) as is required. Some GL-5 75W-90 gear lubes are ok, as described below, but most are not.
A friction modifier additive is not something that should be recommended for the transmission, that so-called Jeep "mechanic" only repeated incorrect information he heard from somebody else who was equally clueless. A friction modifier additive is only meant to be added to the gear lube when there is a Tracloc limited slip differential present. That is because the Traclock has a friction clutch pack inside which requires the additive.
Note that addiing a friction modifier is in no way harmful to the transmission but it serves absolutely no purpose in a manual transmission so there is no need to pay extra for it.
Some synthetic GL-5 75W-90 gear lubes should not be used in the AX-15 (or AX-5) because they are harsh on the synchronizers. The only (!) GL-5 75W-90 gear lube that is safe for use inside the tranmission is one that specifically says (on the back label) it is safe for soft or yellow metals which means it is safe for the synchronizers.
What are safe gear lubes for the AX-5 and AX-15? Redline MT-90 (a synthetic GL-4 75W-90), Amsoil 75W-90 which is a GL-5 that is safe for the synchronizers, and Royal Purple's Max-Gear 75W-90 (also a "safe" GL-5) is also safe for the syncronizers. There are other GL-5 gear lubes that are safe (most are synthetics) but caution most GL-5 75W-90 gear lubes are not safe for a manual transmission.
Using the wrong kind of GL-5 75W-90 will not cause immediate harm to the synchronizers, the harm is something that happens over the long term.
|10-01-2011 02:52 PM|
While entertaining to read this thread, I thought I should tell you what the deal told me. I have a 1999 with 130k miles on it. The second gear synchro is not happy when shifting until the car warms up. If I allow the rpms to drop before going into second, I do not have any problems.
I was told by a Jeep mechanic to use 75-90 Synthetic and then add a friction modifier. He told me that Jeep had changed the spec from 10W-30 to the 75-90.
The shifting issue has improved, but has not gone away. I did not expect that it would just go away as I believe the synchro is going and the only permenant fix would be a re-build.
So, did I use the wrong fluid?
|09-13-2010 11:06 PM|
HMM I may just try that
|09-13-2010 10:07 PM|
|bjtoth||I'm glad we all get along and agree on everything.|
|09-13-2010 07:20 PM|
I wouldn't put Seafoam in my transmission, ESPECIALLY an automatic transmission, no matter what a few say. It's ok for some things but it's not the universal cure-all like some want to think it is. It sure doesn't have a place in an automatic transmission that is already fussy enough about what ATF it runs on.
|09-13-2010 07:12 PM|
|09-13-2010 07:07 PM|
|09-12-2010 11:46 PM|
|09-09-2010 12:22 AM|
|Loic||water...tsk tsk tsk.... only whisky !!!|
|09-08-2010 11:43 PM|
I just run the garden hose under the jeep and flush the transmission with water, should I not do that?
I thought that is what 10 W 30 stood for 10 or WATER or 30
Jerry that Redline product you mentioned in the other thread will that be okay in the NV3550, or just use a good 10W30? This thread has gone way around the bend and I have lost track.
|09-08-2010 05:21 PM|
|09-08-2010 05:20 PM|
LOL... ok, when I had a Discovery II, some guys , if I remember well, were using seafoam to flush the AUTO transmission. it was something like : remove the old fluid, buy cheap trans fluid and 1 big can of seafoam, start the truck DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK and keep moving the gear selector to D, R 1 2 3 etc.. then flush the fluid, and refill with the good stuff.
I do not know if it was good or not and if I missed some step here, but just to give an idea ;-)
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