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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-28-2012 02:01 PM
KingTJ Know I'm knocking on an older thread but thanks to all the help, I was able to successfully complete this job yesterday on my 2000 4.0 auto! Woke up this morning hoping not to find any tranny fluid under my rig and sure enough, dry as a bone thanks for all the help jeepers.
09-07-2012 11:48 PM
crustybutt Been dealing with the same rear output seal leak since I purchased my jeep a few months ago. 99 TJ, 32RH transmission with the NP231 transfer case.

The first attempt at fixing this was with a seal from NAPA. No luck - ATF drips on the driveway the following day. My second attempt I used a different brand seal from AutoZone. Same thing, still leaking.

The seal on the transfer case shows no visible signs of wear or leaks. My leak looks identical to the photos on this post.

I ended up having a local jeep shop swap the seal out the other day. But I am unfortunately still suffering from this dreaded leak

Mechanic said everything else looked good (no excess play, grooves/dings in the metal housing where seal seats, etc.).

I will not be able to get the jeep back down there for him to take another look until next week.

Do any of you have any input on whether or not something else could be causing these seals to fail, or causing the fluid to bypass the seal somehow? I made sure to take extra precautions when seating the seal, as well as greased up the inside portion of seal before mating transfer case back on. I am at a loss and very bummed out that I cannot get this leak fixed.

Thanks for any and all help.
12-02-2011 01:22 AM
Liontamer911
Notice this.!.!.!

One of the first questions I asked when I baught my 98 Wrangler was is it auto or manual....It was Auto...This forum showed me that between late 97 and early 99 all the auto trannies have an open vaccume on the tranny just inside the bellhousing...The problem was corected in late 99 models. But for us who own them prior to this we need to drop the tranny and custumize a vacume tube that will be above water.... IE your problem is your tranny is sucking in water...Looks full, leaking everywhere, well find that hole or stay out of water...Its in this forum...The hole is in the top part of the tranny between the transfercase and tranny. I based my buying of an automatic on this because I knew I could fix it before there was a problem....I just wish I could find the thread right now....
01-31-2011 05:28 PM
Wordgie Great write up and description, but I have a few questions.

About this time last year I noticed the same type of leak under my TJ (4.0/Auto). Did some checking and it felt as if it was coming from the trans pan. I never felt anything on the top side of the lip and nothing up on the trans case anywhere.

I changed the filter, gasket and fluid, buttoned it back up and the next morning it was back. Not as bad, but still there. Torqued the bolts, checked back. Still there. Finally I pulled the pan again, saved the fluid, put another gasket on with some RTV along the perimeter. I also noticed that the pan had a slight bend in the are I was getting the leak from so I used a piece of wood and carefully tapped it until it looked a little more straight. Checked back. No leaks. Week later. No leaks. Year later. Leak.

I'm parking in the driveway now which is on an incline, so my first thought was left over fluid dripping from the skid plate. Got under again, looking for the weep hole and couldn't locate it. I did locate the area in which it LOOKS like it's comng from, and once again looks like it's center of the back edge of the pan, just like last time. I couldn't feel any on the upper lip, but did get a trace along the seal.

If you're looking at the bottom of the Jeep, starting from the front, it looks like the fluid is draining along the front side of the trans mount which is directly under the back lip of the pan.

Now, based on this description, is that the area that the weep hole is in or is it further back? My thought is, because of gravity, if the hole is further back, then it would leak behind the skid plate more.

So, am I looking at a detailed fix like the output shaft seal or something more like a bad pan?

Oh, yeah, it's got 90Kmiles +/-.
10-09-2010 08:36 AM
Foxmotorsport I did mine a few weeks ago, Everything went smoothly except when we dropped the skid plate the bolts came out really easy. I was fully expecting from all the horror stories that we'd break the nutserts or the bolts. Well, living in the rust belt I ended up pulling the threads off the inserts... Ended up tapping oversize and using larger bolts. Took longer to mess with that than actually fixing the leak.
10-09-2010 07:37 AM
greene91 Completed the job on my own in one afternoon. Jeep is back on the road! Thanks for the great information in this post!
10-05-2010 12:40 PM
greene91 Ok, this post is great and has alot of information. Thanks, diyengineer! I have the same exact issue with leakage from the weep hole, but my leak must be from the Transfer Case input seal because I am getting fluid from my transfer case.

The pics and write up on this post are great, and took away any fears I had of doing this job myself. Also thx for the tip on replacing both seals while I am in there........I will do that!

I have the next 3 days off of work, hopefully I can get this knocked out and have my jeep back on the road.

again............great post!!
09-01-2010 02:22 AM
IslandTJ Nice and useful post.
09-01-2010 01:10 AM
98wranglertj OK, she is back on the road and the only thing leaking under it was the condinsation from the air conditioner after a long drive today...want to say thanks to everyones help on here..dont know how much I saved but I have spent less than 50 bucks fixin it...you guys saved me a lot and I really do appreciate all the help and advise..
08-28-2010 11:31 AM
Jerry Bransford It doesn't take much of a specialty tool to seat that kind of seal into place. The key thing to take your time on is simply getting it started all the way around. They can want to cock to one side when if you are not careful to stop when that happens, can ruin the seal. I have a very small smooth-faced hammer that I use to start my seals with a careful tap-tap-tap-tap gently all the way around until it finally starts seating squarely all the way around. Then you can either carefully continue with gentle taps with a small hammer (if that's all you have) until it bottoms out, or then use a big round flat disk the diameter of the seal to finish seating it. If you're careful, the hammer by itself can work... if you're gentle and careful to tap-tap-tap all the way around until it finishes seating. Just don't let it cock to one side which can kink and ruin the seal.
08-28-2010 02:33 AM
diyengineer I used a quill off a cnc machine i had taken apart that fit perfectly, it was meant to be haha (which im sure you wont have lying around). I was going to cut a piece of wood out. Just trace the seal to the wood with a pen or marker. Then use a pvc pipe to drive it in.=) You have to be crafty!

Between some cheap PVC pipe, wood, marker and cheap jig saw you should be good!
08-28-2010 12:46 AM
98wranglertj ok, got the transfer case removed today THANKS DIYENGINEER the istructions were to the T not a difficult job at all. Removed seal and have new one ready to go in just looking for something right now to drive new seal in..ANY IDEAS with out buying specialty tool???
08-24-2010 08:33 PM
98wranglertj
Quote:
Originally Posted by ej_fireman View Post
I have an annoying tranny fluid leak my self havnt wrked on it yet but when I do I hope I dnt have the same trouble as u all did
hopefully it isnt the same..you will know it if you do, I just walked out one day and had a massive BP type oil spill under and around the jeep
08-23-2010 07:42 PM
ej_fireman I have an annoying tranny fluid leak my self havnt wrked on it yet but when I do I hope I dnt have the same trouble as u all did
08-18-2010 01:04 AM
diyengineer
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98wranglertj View Post
ok, im starting this adventure...question??? I couldnt really tell by the pic, do you take the transfer case off and leave the adapter on the back of the trans or did you remove the bolts at the adapter and take the adapter and transfer case off all together.????..thanks
You take the transfer case off. leave the adapter connected to the transmission.
08-17-2010 08:42 PM
98wranglertj ok, im starting this adventure...question??? I couldnt really tell by the pic, do you take the transfer case off and leave the adapter on the back of the trans or did you remove the bolts at the adapter and take the adapter and transfer case off all together.????..thanks
08-16-2010 10:19 PM
98wranglertj
Quote:
Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
Hey sorry for that torque converter typo!
I typed it up from memory in like 2 minutes. It was actually very easy and straight forward! I can only imagine how much money i saved compared to bringing it into the jeep dealership or a tranny shop.




On a more funny note, that Torque converter typo must have doomed me because now i have a little leak from the Torque converter seal. Nothing to really worry about but its annoying! I would have to pull the whole transmission out to get to that huh?
well i would be happy with a small leak right now...gonna take off a day and have a go at it probably next week...and your step by step is gonna be a huge help!!!
08-16-2010 08:25 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
... now i have a little leak from the Torque converter seal. Nothing to really worry about but its annoying! I would have to pull the whole transmission out to get to that huh?
Yep, unless you can do a "Honey I shrunk the kids" thing and make yourself REALLY small so you could get up in there.
08-16-2010 07:45 PM
diyengineer Hey sorry for that torque converter typo!
I typed it up from memory in like 2 minutes. It was actually very easy and straight forward! I can only imagine how much money i saved compared to bringing it into the jeep dealership or a tranny shop.




On a more funny note, that Torque converter typo must have doomed me because now i have a little leak from the Torque converter seal. Nothing to really worry about but its annoying! I would have to pull the whole transmission out to get to that huh?
08-14-2010 04:34 PM
TJ Terry Also put some grease on the splines. I have seen them stripped out. They get dry and rusty.
08-14-2010 04:04 PM
98wranglertj yea, im gonna change mine out but was reading that and was about to second guess that one
08-14-2010 08:16 AM
baja Had me abit cornfused.I thought he went really deep into that seal r+r!
08-13-2010 11:56 PM
Jerry Bransford Yep I see that now, calling the section behind the transmission the tq converter was an error in his terminology.
08-13-2010 09:20 PM
98wranglertj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The torque converter is in front of the transmission. The spacer between the t-case and rear of the transmission is essentially empty and is not supposed to have any ATF in it. So no gasket is needed or used between it and the t-case. The ATF is kept inside the transmission via the unds the transmission's output shaft.
i understand the torque converter is in the front of tranny..but he refered to the tq converter..this must just be the transfer case he is refering to??
08-13-2010 06:17 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98wranglertj View Post
the tq converter this is the spacer looking piece that is between transfer case and tranny right?? can you not buy a gasket for this area??
The torque converter is in front of the transmission. The spacer between the t-case and rear of the transmission is essentially empty and is not supposed to have any ATF in it. So no gasket is needed or used between it and the t-case. The ATF is kept inside the transmission via the seal, replaced above, that surrounds the transmission's output shaft.
08-13-2010 06:03 PM
TJ Terry The easiest way i have found to remove that seal is to drill a small hole in the metal part, put a self tapping screw into it. Then snap a vice grip on to the screw and use a slide hammer to remove it.
08-13-2010 06:00 PM
98wranglertj
Quote:
Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
You are very much welcome!

Skid pan comes off, 6 big bolts, 4 nuts will still hold the skid pan to the bottom of the tranny. remove those. Detach shifter cable bracket from TQ converter. detach breather tube (top of transfer case), remove sensors (2 sensors),use a scratch tool to mark one big line on each axel, this will make sure everything is inline when reinstalling and make your life a hell of a lot easier, remove the 4 small bolts on each of the axels and let them hang down. remove the remaining 4 or 5 bolts that bolt the TQ converter to the transmission. Support transfer case with jack, slide transfer case towards the rear and it will slide right out.

Use pry tool to remove seal from rear of tranny. Use a flat cylindrical object to bang new seal gently in.

TQ converter seal- You will need to unbolt the 4-5 bolts from the front of the TQ converter. This will give you the seal holder. Use a small pry tool to break the silicone gasket seal. Scrape seal clean and clean both surfaces. Use a punch to punch out the old seal. Install new seal in aluminum seal holder. Now use high temp silicon seal and lay a 1/8" bead around the entire vicinity of the mating face, surround each bolt hole. DO NOT COVER UP THE HOLE LOCATED IN THE TOP OF THE SEAL, go above that hole. that hole is the return for the fluid. If you seal that hole off you will destroy the TQ converter. install all bolts and tq to 20 inch lb's. Let dry for 24 hours before adding fluid. You can however install it in the mean time. Drag under jeep, put it back up on the jack. jack it back up into place. You must slide it into the splined output shaft. make sure all your markings you previously marked are in line, before sliding it into the spline! They MUST line up so you can reattach the axles easily. Slide TQ converter into the splined tranny and install nuts. reattach all sensors and hose. Reattach the shifter. re attach the axles.

If you did NOT line up the lines on the axles don't worry, your not in that much trouble. The front axles out of the TQ converter should spin freely and shouldn't be locked up. Spin it until it lines up and bolt it up.

The rear shaft will not spin, jack the rear of the jeep up using the jack and use 2 jack stands. Spin the tire until you can line up the axle bolts again and bolt it up.

Leave the pan off and wait 24 hours to silicon to full cure.

1.25 quarts atf+4 in TQ converter.

If you changed the filter in the tranny and dumped all the fluid, i would put about 2-3 quarts in and see where you stand. It took 5 quarts for me. I was a half quart too high and used a small tube shoved down the fill port to suck excess out.

No leaks yet Drives like a champ!

Hope that really helped!!!
Good luck buddy!
the tq converter this is the spacer looking piece that is between transfer case and tranny right?? can you not buy a gasket for this area??
08-13-2010 05:42 PM
98wranglertj great to hear yours was a success, hope mine will be...should be good with those detailed instructions...Thanks you again!!!!!
08-13-2010 03:54 AM
diyengineer You are very much welcome!

Skid pan comes off, 6 big bolts, 4 nuts will still hold the skid pan to the bottom of the tranny. remove those. Detach shifter cable bracket from TQ converter. detach breather tube (top of transfer case), remove sensors (2 sensors),use a scratch tool to mark one big line on each axel, this will make sure everything is inline when reinstalling and make your life a hell of a lot easier, remove the 4 small bolts on each of the axels and let them hang down. remove the remaining 4 or 5 bolts that bolt the TQ converter to the transmission. Support transfer case with jack, slide transfer case towards the rear and it will slide right out.

Use pry tool to remove seal from rear of tranny. Use a flat cylindrical object to bang new seal gently in.

TQ converter seal- You will need to unbolt the 4-5 bolts from the front of the TQ converter. This will give you the seal holder. Use a small pry tool to break the silicone gasket seal. Scrape seal clean and clean both surfaces. Use a punch to punch out the old seal. Install new seal in aluminum seal holder. Now use high temp silicon seal and lay a 1/8" bead around the entire vicinity of the mating face, surround each bolt hole. DO NOT COVER UP THE HOLE LOCATED IN THE TOP OF THE SEAL, go above that hole. that hole is the return for the fluid. If you seal that hole off you will destroy the TQ converter. install all bolts and tq to 20 inch lb's. Let dry for 24 hours before adding fluid. You can however install it in the mean time. Drag under jeep, put it back up on the jack. jack it back up into place. You must slide it into the splined output shaft. make sure all your markings you previously marked are in line, before sliding it into the spline! They MUST line up so you can reattach the axles easily. Slide TQ converter into the splined tranny and install nuts. reattach all sensors and hose. Reattach the shifter. re attach the axles.

If you did NOT line up the lines on the axles don't worry, your not in that much trouble. The front axles out of the TQ converter should spin freely and shouldn't be locked up. Spin it until it lines up and bolt it up.

The rear shaft will not spin, jack the rear of the jeep up using the jack and use 2 jack stands. Spin the tire until you can line up the axle bolts again and bolt it up.

Leave the pan off and wait 24 hours to silicon to full cure.

1.25 quarts atf+4 in TQ converter.

If you changed the filter in the tranny and dumped all the fluid, i would put about 2-3 quarts in and see where you stand. It took 5 quarts for me. I was a half quart too high and used a small tube shoved down the fill port to suck excess out.

No leaks yet Drives like a champ!

Hope that really helped!!!
Good luck buddy!
08-12-2010 10:33 PM
98wranglertj thanks for all this info...gonna be a huge help for me...the weather here has been 100+ so havent started on mine, supposed to cool off next week so hope to get started.. THANKS for aLL THE DETAIL in the how to that is gonna be a HUGE help to me when i start...THANKS AGAIN
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