|08-11-2010 11:13 AM|
|at7190||Ok so.. I have been to three places regaurding my tranny issue. First place says cooling issue ($500), second place sensor malfunction ($150) and the dealership says valve body ($900). My question is who wins? The dealership is the only place that did an actual diagnostic on the code that's comming up. I have come to terms with having to spend a chunk of change but I need the problem fixed. So what's your opinion?|
|08-07-2010 11:21 PM|
|doclouie||I always put in a tranny cooler in line with the stock one as you can't keep the temp too cold. Heat kills transmission. The cooler I install is rated for a motorhome and works great. Took about $75 in parts and a couple hours workl|
|08-07-2010 08:02 PM|
|at7190||Sounds good. I will try the cooler and go from there. It just started banging into first and second about three days ago but its at less than 2.5K RPM when it happens. I have had it about six months and never experienced anything like it before. It seems to go away quickly and if I let it warm up before I start driving I don't have the problem at all. I am not sure it the previous owner has ever flushed the trans fluid so hopefully that will give some good results.|
|08-07-2010 07:42 PM|
|jeepjones||If you are going to get it replaced just DO NOT GET IT DONE AT THE DEALER! Take it to a reputable transmission shop. You will save a ton of money!|
|08-07-2010 07:37 PM|
generally a hard 1st to 2nd shift is normal in autos when cold. that should leave quickly though.
debris isn't though. if all you're experiencing is a hard 1-2 shift when cold, unless it slips hard, say to 3k or higher RPM under light throttle I wouldn't worry. I'd wait till it really starts acting up before it's rebuilt.
make certain it's ATF4 and the good stuff, not that Auto Zone special stuff. this trans is grouchy like I said, and it doesn't play nice
|08-07-2010 07:30 PM|
|at7190||Thanks for the info I think he planned on removing the original but I will tell him to leave it. He is also doing a trans flush with the synthetic fluid and a computer code retrieval and clearing. This will cost me about $500 (pretty much all labor). I don't think have the skills to install the cooler myself but I was wondering it that's a fair price? I was also wondering if you guys think this will fix the prob? It seems kind of counter-intuitive that I would need a cooler as my problem is occuring when my jeep is warming up not after? Also would a temp gauge for the trans be a good investment? Thanks again for the advice!|
|08-07-2010 07:27 PM|
|sbregister34||I'm not a transmission expert,but I've been working on cars a while, and any Jeep that says use atf4 on you better use it. You said your transmission was serviced at 30k I think did the problems occur shortly after that? Check to see what fluid was put in. There are additives to make normal atf into the atf4, but make sure that atf4 or the additive was used in the jeep.|
|08-07-2010 07:00 PM|
at7190...my trans operates at 198-205 degrees. same as my engine. I've gotten it up past 220 twice and got dinged with a hot warning, both times wheelin'.
I'll be getting an aux cooler. sounds like you're in the same boat as me. it's a great $60 investment.
change your fluid a bit early since you run hot. 25-30k to prevent damage. even if the ATF looks and smells good. I'll be doing a flush in around 3,000 and installing my cooler at the same time.
|08-07-2010 06:41 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||If you end up adding a cooler, make sure it is plumbed in series with the output of the OE cooler which is part of the radiator. Don't replace the OE tranny cooler with something else. Make any cooler that is added an auxiliary cooler that further cools the output of the OE transmission cooler, not the only cooler. And a big welcome to WF!|
|08-07-2010 06:27 PM|
|at7190||I am having the exact same problem. I also have a 2006 Jeep wrangler (65th ed) with about 36k miles. What did you end up doing with yours? I went to a transmission shop today and he wants to put on a cooling system that is significantly longer than the factory one that's in there now. He did say that my trans was running hotter than my engine. Anyone else have any suggestions?|
|08-07-2010 02:34 PM|
I've been using a Superchip controller to manipulate my 42RLE to gain power and eliminate torque converter chatter via shift schedule manipulations. I can't name any, but I know dealerships and auto repair shops have a high end controller that can get into the nitty gritty of making better TCM adjustments. for example, if I shifted to reverse and had a delay, my SC can't fix it. or if my Jeep only drove in reverse, I don't have the controller to correct the computer issue causing it. so simple band adjustments need a $700 programmer/diagnostic. anything more advanced pretty much gets a rebuild, which looks insanely difficult on this transmission.
it sucks and I don't like it. I'm almost at the point where I can't do anything with an automatic except a fluid change
|08-07-2010 01:41 PM|
Good information GroundHawg, thanks. I kept pouring through the FSM and it was more about diagnosing its electronic brain than anything else, I was surprised. Very little was on how to repair anything mechanical inside.
Thanks for confirming my initial suspicion that it doesn't have adjustable bands. Discovering that was surprising to say the least.
|08-07-2010 01:37 PM|
it doesn't. all transmission manipulations and adjustment are done through the TCM and PCM. you'll need to buy a programmer if you want to correct sloppy shifting, or change the shift patterns.
this is an EXTREMELY b*tchy transmission. it will and does get hot fast. if you guys want to play with it, get a temp gage or programmer that can read out running temps. I've been playing with my shift pattern in my JK, particularly the OD. just be careful playing with it and watch those temps after any change in the stock programs. slight delays after a shift should be ok, but if you're forcing it to stay in gear till 2500rpm, just please be careful. like I said, this transmission is VERY picky and grouchy. any problems should be delt with fluid and filter changes. that solves alot, with a good ATF4 only fluid.
|08-07-2010 12:03 PM|
I was just looking in the '04 FSM at the info for the newer 42RLE and holy smoke, that thing is more like a giant computer than it is a transmission. I can't even figure out if it has bands that can be adjusted like the older transmissions use. It almost doesn't look like it but that doesn't seem right. I'll keep digging and if anything comes up for the '03 and newer where the band adjustment is concerned, I'll post the info up.
|08-07-2010 11:51 AM|
|Green Bay TJ||Probably has been 3 years. I have 75K miles on the Jeep, and I think this is a 25K service, so it is probably due just about now.|
|08-07-2010 09:50 AM|
|doclouie||I have heard the 2000 has bands that are adjustable. I do not know if this is correct or not, but that could be one of the problems. I would first start off with a new tranny filter and synthetic ATF +4. When is the last time you changed the fluid?|
|08-06-2010 10:38 PM|
|Green Bay TJ||Have a possibly related problem with my 2000 TJ automatic transmission. In winter it will start and run fine until I get to the stop sign at the top of the hill I drive up. I stop at the sign then when I hit the gas, the engine revs but the jeep does not move for a second or two. Then it lurches ito gear. Everything is fine after that. One cold day after work it happened (just once), but routinely happens in the winter mornings. I asked two different dealer shops to take a look at it when it was in for oil change, but they found nothing. One suspected and O2 sensor, but I had it in the shop about 2 days after I passed my last emissions test.|
|06-07-2010 09:49 PM|
|doclouie||I have heard that the transmission in the newer Jeeps run quite a bit warmer than they should. I even believe there was a recall because of that problem. Run synthetic fluid rather than the stock fluid as it will flow better at colder temperatures. Then I would just wait for it to fail and bite the bullet, but that is just me.|
|06-07-2010 09:36 PM|
Need Help. My 2006 Jeep wrangler automatic is having problems and I need help. its a daily driver with about 46,000 miles on int.
the vehicle shifts hard from 1st to 2nd when cold. when the vehicle warms up, usually 5-10 minutes of driving, it seems to shift fine.
the dealer dropped the tranmission pan and states they found debris in the bottom of the pan. " more than usual". the say the entire transmission needs to be rebuilt for a cost of 2200 to 2400.
when I questioned more about the debris, the dealer told me it was clutch material, metallic in nature. not much of an explanation of why it runs fine when warmed up. So, do I have a big problem here, or is the dealer trying to get a big job out of me. I had them put the pan back, and I have the car back. I am so pissed that the car with that limited mileage and the tranny was serviced at 30,000 new fluid, automatic filter change. I have a call into Chrysler to see what they will do. maybe they will step up to the plate and take care of this.
any thoughts out there, opinions, advice..please help.