Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum > HELP! jeep won't run right

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: HELP! jeep won't run right Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
10-05-2010 09:52 PM
The Yeti The Albino Rhino is alive! The fuel pump fixed it. Finally after 3 monthes of fighting this stupid thing it's finally fixed. Thanks to everyone on here who gave suggestions and helped me get her fixed.
09-29-2010 12:56 PM
The Yeti if it doesn't raise until I clampthe return line does that mean the fuel pressure regulator is bad? or is it supposed to do that. I haven't been home to try it yet. I will let you know what I come up with.
09-29-2010 11:33 AM
Ibuildembig You can test it 2 ways....put the gauge on the rail and start it...if it doesnt pressure up, clamp off the return line and see if it raises
09-29-2010 11:25 AM
The Yeti K, I will try the O2 senser then if that doesn't work, I will try the fuel pump. I have already swapped the entire fuel rail with my 93 and the 93 still runs on my fuel rail and mine won't run on its. I am leaning towards the fuel pump though, because when you press the pressure release valve on the fuel rail it doesn't seem to be anywhere near 30 PSI
09-29-2010 10:19 AM
Ibuildembig If its red you have a fuel problem bigtime...its leaning it out or the timing is way off. So, its either an O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, or fuel pump. Getcha a FP gauge and read it on the rail, it should be over 30psi (not sure what the spec says for sure)
09-29-2010 10:09 AM
The Yeti forgot to mention that last night i was working on it late and had ran it down the road a little, and it wasn't showing hot on the gauge but when I opened the hood in the dark II could see that the exhaust manifold and down the pipe a little ways was cherry red. if that helps anything.
09-29-2010 10:00 AM
The Yeti Hey guys, It's been a few since I have been on here, I took the jeep to a mechanic and asked him to run the scanner on it, and a fuel pressure gauge. A month later and a few not so pleasant conversations he hadn't done either, so I went and picked up the jeep and got it home. Since then I have replaced the wiring harness, and it seems to be doing alot better than it was before. Now I am gonna start all the sensor changing process again. I also wonder if some how my vacuum lines got mixed up, does anybody have a vacuum map for the 94? I am also gonna try swapping the fuel pumps this weekend from my 93. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
08-18-2010 08:25 AM
UABYJ94 Take a can of cleaner and spray around the manifold and the TB to check for leaks.
It sounds like you have a leak somewhere causing this. If no leak then put on a pair of rubber gloves and pull 1 plug wire at a time/replace it and move to next one and see if any of one of them being off does not change the idle of the engine. Could be bad plug or plug wire.
08-17-2010 09:37 PM
The Yeti The jeep doesn't run right even with nothing attached to the throttlebody, so I know that it couldn't be airflow. and I bought an ARB snorkel.
08-17-2010 06:15 PM
tng6664 do you still have snorkle on???? r the holes on the airbox still sealed shut,,u said it runs like crap even if you take pipe back off, correct????just a thought,,we ride atv's all the time,,we snorkle all of them,,with the pipe out if u still have box sealed you have restricted airflow,,if with the pipe on and box sealed you could still be restricting air.same concept on any motor,,did u make homemade snrkl,,or buy,,if u made it,,make sure somehow,,maybe from others with same motor,,that your pipe isn't too small,,,just a thought.,.,airflow is very tricky,,will cause loss of power
08-12-2010 01:20 PM
argyll1984
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
yeah, the other wires are right. I am lost, I think I am just gonna have to swallow my pride and take it to a mechanic.
Dang, I'm sorry to hear that. But some times you have to do it. Heck, I think I'm pretty mechanically inclined but just recently I had to take my '00 XJ to the shop because I couldn't fix my blinkers. It ended up being the flasher relay and I just couldn't find it
08-12-2010 01:08 PM
The Yeti
Quote:
Originally Posted by argyll1984 View Post
I cant remember exactly, but if the rotor is pointing at the terminal for the spark plug that runs to the front of the engine when the piston is at the top it should be right. The only other thing I can think of is maybe a couple of the spark plug wires got mixed up. If you have a Haynes manual or something like it, double check if the wires are ran correctly from the distributor.
yeah, the other wires are right. I am lost, I think I am just gonna have to swallow my pride and take it to a mechanic.
08-12-2010 12:56 PM
argyll1984
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Yeti View Post
I didn't have it at TDC when I put it back in but I had it marked. I pulled it up at TDC and pulled the cap and it seems to be pointing at number one cylinder but I still think I might be off 1 tooth. The rotor is at 3 o'clock when the motor is at TDC does this sound about right?
I cant remember exactly, but if the rotor is pointing at the terminal for the spark plug that runs to the front of the engine when the piston is at the top it should be right. The only other thing I can think of is maybe a couple of the spark plug wires got mixed up. If you have a Haynes manual or something like it, double check if the wires are ran correctly from the distributor.
08-12-2010 12:41 PM
The Yeti
Quote:
Originally Posted by argyll1984 View Post
Did you make sure cylinder #1 was at top dead center when you put the distributor in? Back when I did a motor swap on my 93 4 banger I was told it wasn't necessary for the first cylinder to be at TDC when putting it in and I found out after an hour of it not starting that I got some bad advice. Found TDC put in the distributor and it fired right up.
I didn't have it at TDC when I put it back in but I had it marked. I pulled it up at TDC and pulled the cap and it seems to be pointing at number one cylinder but I still think I might be off 1 tooth. The rotor is at 3 o'clock when the motor is at TDC does this sound about right?
08-12-2010 12:34 PM
The Yeti
Quote:
Originally Posted by VolForce View Post
any chance your problems are not related? almost sounds like your timing chain/belt has slipped a bit.
I don't think that the timing chain has slipped because I still have really good compression 125PSI
08-12-2010 12:33 PM
argyll1984 Did you make sure cylinder #1 was at top dead center when you put the distributor in? Back when I did a motor swap on my 93 4 banger I was told it wasn't necessary for the first cylinder to be at TDC when putting it in and I found out after an hour of it not starting that I got some bad advice. Found TDC put in the distributor and it fired right up.
08-12-2010 12:22 PM
VolForce any chance your problems are not related? almost sounds like your timing chain/belt has slipped a bit.
08-12-2010 12:18 PM
The Yeti Ok guys sorry for the delay, I was out of town for a few days and then hadn't had time to get out under the hood till today. So I checked the pushrods and all of them were straight and not bent. I also picked up a timing light and checked it today and it is staying at about 0 degrees advance is this about right? I was wondering if when I changed the dist. that I got it a tooth off maybe? What advance does a 94 usually run?
07-25-2010 11:07 PM
The Yeti
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott howard View Post
did you use the correct wire when splicing the wires ?? most electricians use solid wire where auto wiring is stranded wire. and yes it will make a difference especially when talking about something like the dist. trigger.
Yes we used stranded wire. and if it would cause a problem like that how would you go about fixing it? Because it was showing a higher voltage than the other running jeep
07-25-2010 11:05 PM
The Yeti
Quote:
Originally Posted by qman2 View Post
I had a similar headache with checking everything and my 95 still wouldn't run.

It finally turned out that I had two worn camshaft lobes along with their corresponding lifters and the push rods were bent. Compression was good.

I've been told that over-revving will cause bent push rods and then trashed cam and lifters. If you over revved the rig this could be a maybe. All you gotta do is take off the valve cover and turn the crank. If something is wrong in there you'll see it by rocker arms not moving correctly.

I know it's a stab in the dark but it's all I got.
it's a strong possibility, because I was on the interstate rpm around 3k when it started to buck and snort like it did. because it was slightly missing before hand which was most likely the water in the tank, and if it was getting water in the motor with it turning 3k it is very possible something bent like that. I will check for that in the morning.
07-25-2010 09:21 PM
scott howard did you use the correct wire when splicing the wires ?? most electricians use solid wire where auto wiring is stranded wire. and yes it will make a difference especially when talking about something like the dist. trigger.
07-25-2010 12:20 PM
qman2 I had a similar headache with checking everything and my 95 still wouldn't run.

It finally turned out that I had two worn camshaft lobes along with their corresponding lifters and the push rods were bent. Compression was good.

I've been told that over-revving will cause bent push rods and then trashed cam and lifters. If you over revved the rig this could be a maybe. All you gotta do is take off the valve cover and turn the crank. If something is wrong in there you'll see it by rocker arms not moving correctly.

I know it's a stab in the dark but it's all I got.
07-24-2010 11:34 PM
The Yeti Well the snorkel didn't cut out the factory air box. it comes in from the side of the air box and you plug the holes at the front of the air box. and the theory behind the snorkel is it works like a cool air intake pulling cool air from high up outside and not from close to the 210 degree engine. and also the jeep runs nasty idling if you have the tube from the air box attached or not attached. One thing I forgot to mention earlier is that it will back fire out the throttle body when it is missing which leads me to believe that something in the electronic timing advance is bad. or that something telling the timing advance what to do is bad.
07-24-2010 11:24 PM
FNjeep Don't know if this will help:

From what I've been told, the 2.5 engine want's a *cool* intake pipe along the line. You can't just cut out the filter box and slap on a new air intake system (snorkel, performance air filter) into the line.

You still need to get cool air into the carb. for everything to work correctly.
07-24-2010 10:43 PM
The Yeti Does a 94 have one? and where would I find it if this is the case? and all the parts I swapped looked identical. The wiring harnesses are exactly the same too. I know they 93 and 94 harnesses differ from a 91 and 92.
07-24-2010 02:20 PM
flatline I don't think so. on the 4.0 there are some differences between years for computor and distributor parts. 91-92, 93 , 94-95. don't know if the same for 2.5. could be a problem when swaping parts. I might change the cam sensor.
07-24-2010 12:21 PM
The Yeti there was only one wire that was hurt badly, the others just had a little stripped insulation. I traced the one wire that we had to cut a replace the section and it ran to the distributor sync pickup. I checked the voltage on this wire at the distributor and checked it with the wire at the dist. on the 93 and the 94 read 9.48 volts and the 93 read 9.12 volts would that much of a difference be enough to hurt anything?
07-24-2010 11:56 AM
flatline the problem sounds like it's still in the wires you messed up. I would go back and start there.
07-24-2010 10:33 AM
The Yeti
HELP! jeep won't run right

Ok, this is one is about to melt my brain. So I have a 94 YJ with the 2.5 and 5 speed. This Jeep was an everyday driver/weekend warrior until I decided to put a snorkel on it and drilled into the wiring harness. I didn't realize at the time that I had drilled into the wiring harness so I drove it about 30 miles and it had a slight miss then it started bucking and wouldn't pull above 35mph. So after looking at the wiring harness, I had my uncle who is a electrician fix the few wires that had gotten mangled. After much soldering and crimping it still wouldn't run right. so I assumed I had shorted a sensor or something. So I had a 93 yj with a 2.5 and 5 speed that I was swapping sensors with hoping to find the bad one to know which one to buy. I ended up switching the throttle positioning sensor, the mass air flow?(other sensor on TB), the Crank positioning sensor, the air temp sensor, the map sensor, and the O2 sensor, all off the other jeep. The other jeep still ran like a dream.

So I reverted to K.I.S.S. and did a tune up (cap, button, wires, and plugs) Still no avail. I checked the fuel coming in and found water in the fuel. so I drained the tank and dropped it. I took a rag to the inside of the tank to make sure there was absolutely no water in the tank (I am MAD by this point) I took the old fuel filter off and sprayed the lines out with an air house and replaced with a new fuel filter. so then I checked and had pure gas going to the fuel rail. Still same deal. hard start, and missing horribly

So I decided to swap the entire fuel rail with injectors with the other jeep. after all of this my jeep still would not run right and the 93 would crank and drive wonderfully.

I forgot to mention I tried swapping computers and that the 93 ran perfect on either computer when the 94 would not.

I also checked the compression and found 125 psi on all 4 cylinders

I even cut the cat. converter out and still have had the same problem. I am at a complete loss. I have tried everything I know to do and no matter what parts I switch the 93 runs fine and the 94 won't pull out of it's tracks. I can take pics of where we fixed the wiring harness if that would help the diagnosis. Any ideas at all would be helpful at this point. I have fought this thing for a month and a half straight and am ready to steal all the goodies and burn it.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:15 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC