|09-18-2010 09:12 AM|
|bumperman||My 92 went dumb on me after installing a homemade snorkle and using it. I let mine sit for a week and just started running right again. Dumbfounded. As for Your Chevy eating fuel pumps make sure ur mechanic is replacing the fuel filter.|
|09-18-2010 04:10 AM|
After changing the TPS, Crank shaft sensor, fuel filter, Spark Plugs and cables I finally decided to change the O2 sensor and wala! it doesn't sputter like it used to (its been 3 days) but I think its gone
GL with yours
|08-31-2010 08:20 PM|
Code 62 is failure of the engine controller to store emission maintenance reminder mileage. This just turns on a light to remind you to take it in for an inspection. Shouldn't cause a problem.
Code 33 is an A/C clutch relay problem.
My temp gauge has always run one tick mark to the left of 210 with the factory thermostat.
|08-27-2010 07:20 AM|
since my last post I have done a tune up which did include the coil bar, and I took care of all the usual suspects but check engine was still on and I was still having the same trouble you are. I then went to a shop and they checked the cat converter and it was "clogging" and showing an "efficiency code" so I went to a muffler shop and they changed the Cat Converter for 300 and it has been perfect for a month now. The dealership wanted 1800 to change cat converter so go to a muffler shop, it's what they do and do it quickly...
|08-26-2010 11:25 AM|
|Dr. Venture||Once it gets hot, means that something is expanding. Possible you have a cracked head.|
|08-26-2010 09:03 AM|
Still supporting the local parts shop
Since the last post I have had the radiator flushed and filled, replaced coolant sensors and thermostat. Changed the oil just for fun, dropped the fuel tank to see if the sock was catching any trash, no trash in the tank, had the fuel lines tested again for good pressure, had all vacuum lines checked, added some sea foam just for giggles...oh and a throttle position sensor.
It was running a little better, I could go about 30 miles without a problem, now it is worse than ever, I can only go about 6 - 8 miles before it starts sputtering, no longer backfires though. Oh, and the temperature still only gets to 180 maximum even with a new thermostat. Let's see what else..
Just went outside and checked for any codes today...it is now giving a 33 and a 62....that's an O2 and something about a turbo, I think....I'll have to verify. It has never given any codes before. Maybe the new pcm is confused with all of the parts I have replaced. I don't know but I am broke and my babies need some new clothes, so I will just have to limp along until I can find a job. Savings is dangerously low so I can't do much more.
When I get the funds to continue searching for the Loch Ness Monster, I'll certainly post any results.
|08-25-2010 10:14 PM|
So Far I have changed my Spark Plugs, Cables, both my coolant sensors, Thermostat, Throttle Position Sensor and my Fuel Filter
No Luck how about you ?
|08-13-2010 05:07 PM|
|jkp||Yeah, you guys are just getting them broken in, my '92 is pushing 240,000.|
|08-12-2010 11:38 PM|
Well we have a problem right here with the Thermostat. That Thermostat should not even open until 195. Your engine needs a certain amount of heat in order to keep itself clean. You have a condition called "Under-cooling" in which the T-stat is either the wrong part or it's stuck open preventing the engine from reaching it's normal operating temp of 210. Over time this can cause carbon deposits, increased emissions, and oil sludge. I'm not sure how this could be related to stalling unless your plugs are getting fouled too. Though it may explain the "Running Rich" fault code. 180 is not that far off but it's still not right. I have 2 YJ's and they both run at 210.
I think we should replace that T-stat with a new 195 and also check and clean the Coolant sensor while the housing is off. If the sensor is gunked up that could cause a lot of problems too. Replacing the T-stat may not solve your problem. But it's cheap and relatively easy to do and imo worth a try.
If you need help with the procedure pm me and I'll walk you through it.
On a side note, 82,000 miles is nothing. I have a '92 with 170,000 miles on it's original motor and it still pulls like Hercules.
Your Jeep is not old. It's just sick.
|08-12-2010 04:22 PM|
These guys have the '93 shop manual online. I don't think there's a big difference between the '92s and '93s.
Jeep Knowledge Base
|08-12-2010 10:50 AM|
|susanatkinson||ok, on the topic of sea foam: I have heard good and bad stories. I tried fuel system cleaner when the Jeep first started sputtering, along with using premium fuel with no improvement. If I tried sea foam, how much do I put in and do you think it is a wise move?|
|08-12-2010 10:36 AM|
It starts stalling about 160 - 180 degrees, it actually has never gotten to 210, and I have never smelled antifreeze , if it was steaming I would smell it, right? I mean if my thermostat is bad and it's actually getting hotter than I think, wouldn't I smell it? I have been under the hood several times immediately after it stalls and there's never been any indication that it has been too hot.
I don't know if its related, I thought it is just because my baby is getting old, but I don't have much power anymore. I live in extreme Southern Illinois and I am barely able to climb some of the monster hills we have here, on the Highway I mean, not just offroad. 5th gear is almost useless, NO power at all, and I am having to downshift to 3rd to climb one of the hills on my way to the house.
I would love to buy a new Jeep and put ol blue on the shelf but I am currently unemployed, my husband abandoned me and our two babies about four months ago, can't find work, and now my Chevy truck is broke down again (three fuel pumps in 8 months). My '92 is really the true love of my life (college graduation gift) besides my kids so I guess I'm too emotional about it.. thanks again for trying to help. Just tired of mechanics thinking I'm stupid. My Daddy was a Chrysler mechanic for 40 plus years, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, just don't have tools to do these jobs myself and both of my parents have passed away. And now I'm sharing my personal anguish with the world....I really need a break, I guess I'm losing it!
|08-12-2010 09:32 AM|
|kelsco||I have been having same issue with my 04, it does not happen all the time. Three mechanics and the dealership later and the only thing they all agreed on was a PO304 code, a misfire on the 4th cyclinder. The dealer wanted $1800 to do the Cat Conv. but the muffler shop said the cat conv only was showing efficiency issues and would not cause this problem (honest man only wanted 400 to replace). One mechanic said he drove 5 times and two of the five times the oil was hot. Last night I did a "Tune Up", not only Plugs like I see all the time in here, I replaced the Coil Bar and Plugs, I also slowly poured some sea foam in the fuel intake, a little smoke later all the build up was gone, it ran perfectly after. I did the plug tune up before and it always helped but I can tell a difference this time. I am still gonna wait to throw a party since my problem was once in a while but it always seemed worse in the Texas Heat. The more I read the more I see this is a pretty common issue and you can change parts all day long and spend so much money. I took all the opinions of all the shops and found their common diagnosis, the misfire, and started there, I am relying on Occam's razor (the principle that "entities must not be multiplied beyond necessity", or the simplest explaination is usually correct!) I will let ya know...|
|08-11-2010 10:36 PM|
Susan what's your temperature on the gauge when it starts stalling? You should be at 210 all the time and never over unless you are pulling a trailer and then only briefly. My concern is that your coolant may not be circulating as it should which could cause hot pockets inside the engine to boil your coolant to steam. Once you start climbing a hill the steam pocket would naturally move to the top front of the engine causing the sensor there to momentarily dry out. This would cause the ECU to pull timing to protect the motor just the same as if you ran out of coolant. The steam would then escape the system by burping out into the reserve tank leaving you none the wiser. Adding more coolant would only be a band aid.
The causes of low circulating or boiling coolant are:
Failing Water Pump
Blocked Coolant passages.
Replacing the Coolant Sensor is a good time to change the Thermostat. But while the coolant is drained, you may also consider having the entire system back flushed and the water pump checked.
|08-11-2010 08:50 PM|
The temp gauge has its own sending unit. I think it's on the head, driver's side. It does not use the computer sensor that's on the thermostat housing.
O2 sensor is on the exhaust manifold/header on the driver's side. You'll see the wires going to the exhaust.
|08-11-2010 08:04 PM|
I havnt not replaced all of the sensors. I did replace the
spark plugs and wiring
and Coolant sensor
(my temp gauge never worked and still doesn't work after i replaced the sensor)
I would like to try the O2 sensor if I knew where to find it. I have alot more research to go. This is my first jeep so im learning as I go.
|08-11-2010 05:21 PM|
|susanatkinson||I did add about 16 ounces of coolant and the Jeep has been running alot better. I have put about 60 miles on it, half on road, half off. It has not backfired again, but it has continued to stall and sputter about five times in that 60 miles, all at times when climbing steep hills. Both rides I was able to get home with it, so that's a huge improvement! I plan on replacing the remaining sensors that I haven't already, your advice about the problem being once its on closed loop makes sense. As for the last post, xpocad, I believe....you said you have the same problems and your next step is replacing the fuel pump, have you replaced all of the sensors already with no success? thanks everyone for all of your input! If I ever get it fixed, I will certainly let everyone know what does the trick. First I will try the coolant sensor because it really improved tremendously by adding extra coolant to the overflow resevoir!|
|08-10-2010 11:57 PM|
|xpocad||My problem sounds exactly like yours. Sorry I dont have any useful information to add but my next step is to replace the Fuel Pump.|
|08-10-2010 04:50 PM|
It sounds as if your problems begin once the engine warms up, and the computer goes into closed loop. At that point it begins running on the inputs from all the sensors. The '92s have the following sensors:
Cam Pos, aka sync sensor, stator
Manifold Air Temp
Manifold Absolute Press
The cam pos sensor is in the distributor. I found that it was cheaper and easier to replace the entire distributor than just the sensor. To replace the sensor, you have to remove and disassemble the distributor.
The Manifold Absolute Press sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the valve cover and is connected to the intake manifold with vacuum hose.
The coolant temp sensor is located in the thermostat housing at the front of the engine.
Several yrs back, I replaced all the sensors on my '92 to get rid of an aggravating, intermittent miss.
|08-08-2010 07:35 PM|
Susan how's your coolant level? Not the level in the radiator but the level in your reserve tank?
There is a coolant sensor near the Thermostat. This is not the temperature guage sending unit, this is a sensor used by the ECM. When the engine is cold the Thermostat is closed and the sensor may be submerged in coolant. When the engine reaches normal operating temperature the Thermostat opens allowing coolant to flow through the radiator. If you have low coolant level, this sensor may momentarily run dry which will cause the ECM to pull timing in order to protect the motor. The motor will still idle normally but as soon as you try to accelerate, the motor will stall. When you shut the motor off, the pressure may build just enough to submerge the sensor again until you start driving and the flow resumes. Check the coolant level in your reserve tank at normal operating temperature and make sure it's to the "Full" line.
|08-08-2010 07:10 PM|
|susanatkinson||Mechanic #2 put on a new coil and it didn't help...thankfully didn't get charged for that one. Put it on and took it right back off. I know it's not the catalytic convertor because it doesn't have one...basically a straight pipe for three or four years now. Loud pipes save lives, you know. Just at a loss, dealer won't help because they don't know how to repair a car if it doesn't give a code. No mechanics I have contacted have any ideas except to keep throwing parts at it. LOVE my jeep, never had any problems with it and it's just getting good, old enough I don't have to worry about scratches and dents...But it's not doing me any good to just keep spending money and having to get pulled back home.|
|08-08-2010 05:47 PM|
|GatorDeve86||i'm having same issues currently with my 92.. It doesnt do it all the time but every once in awhile it does I was told it was the cat by a mechanic but i've had a bad cat before and know the difference|
|08-08-2010 05:45 PM|
|sbregister34||I am not familiar with that particular model engine if it has a coil or not, but I have seen many engines run good until they warm up and then the coil starts what we call breaking down inside sometimes they will leave a white arc spot on them. I have even had them not throw codes.|
|08-08-2010 01:55 PM|
|susanatkinson||I forgot to list the O2 sensor, that was the first thing I tried. And, Jerry, you mention camshaft position sensor...is this different from the crankshaft position sensor?|
|08-08-2010 01:13 PM|
Camshaft position sensor going bad? Located inside the distributor and under the rotor, it provides the camshaft timing signal to the engine computer and can cause the same type of symptom.
And of course running too rich is often nothing more than a bad upstream 02 sensor. The upstream 02 sensor (located just below the exhaust header) is what is responsible for helping the computer set the correct air-fuel mixture so when that sensor starts going bad, it can fool the computer into setting the air fuel mixture too rich (or too lean but that is less common).
|08-08-2010 01:04 PM|
1992 wrangler can someone help?
I have a 92 Wrangler with 82,000 miles. Bought it new and still love it! I have a problem and hope someone can offer advice. Jeep runs great about 10 - 12 miles, until engine gets warm. Then it starts stalling, like it's out of gas, backfires, sputters, if you shut it off it will run okay a little farther, then start missing again. I have taken it to three mechanics and am about $1000 into repairs and it's still not fixed. Not giving codes, just "running rich". One mechanic thought it was fuel issue, other thought it was in the fire, third said it was the engine control module. I have replaced fuel filter, pressure regulator, crankshaft position sensor, fuel sensor, cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires, and the computer. Still not fixed. Any ideas? Does my model have a ported vacuum switch and could that cause this type of problem?
Fuel pump is working, relay is good. Not the cat convertor....