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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-17-2010 08:11 PM
rogertc1 stay clear..sounds shady..you could get the shaft
08-17-2010 07:33 PM
crozewski Guys so here's the deal. The Jeep checked out OK on everything you mentioned however here's the thing I noticed. The guy has this registered under his father's dealership, so he's driving with dealer plates. There's no inspection sticker on the car. That's a concern to me. He says that I can hold a portion of my money until I pass it, and that then I can pay him the balance, but can't he just register it under his dealership?! FYI, this is in NJ.

Thanks!
08-17-2010 01:58 PM
crozewski
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn91YJ View Post
In general you're better off with a fuel injected engine. You'll just find yourself tinkering more with a carbed engine. Plenty of 91-95 YJs around. Just my 2 cents!
Glen, any experience on how a carbed wrangler deals with our winters/summer fluctuations?

Thanks
08-17-2010 10:47 AM
UABYJ94 As true a statement as Glenn made it shouldn't be a reason to walk away from a good running carb'd engine. Yes, a MPFI engine is more dependable on off-canter and steep incline/decline hills,but there is not computer to crap out on you when it's gotten dunked in a deep water crossing either.. lol There are arguements for both sides.
I am looking to buy an older CJ-5 and bring it back to life for a daily driver and make my 94 a trailer queen. No I don't deal with the harsher climates of the north, but apparently the PO has dealt with it on this car'b engine aswell asd the ones before him according to that carfax report and it consistantly passed emmision tests..
Dont be afraid of it especially if you drive it and it runs really good. Buy it you wont regret it anymore than others for things they sacrificed on the rig they purchased..
08-17-2010 10:38 AM
Glenn91YJ In general you're better off with a fuel injected engine. You'll just find yourself tinkering more with a carbed engine. Plenty of 91-95 YJs around. Just my 2 cents!
08-17-2010 08:06 AM
chensley Just a heads up when buying a used, older machine...especially a Jeep..There is a thread lingering around here somewhere addressing this...but in a nutshell just remember...

1.Jeep owners tend to pay more attention to their machine than regular car drivers
2.They also tend to "abuse" them more...(trails, lakes (chadwick),and other stuff)
3.Check the vitals! (engine,clutch,tranny,transfercase,differentials)
4.Don't purchase a Jeep if you have to make life decisions at the gas pump.
5.With any older machine, you can expect components to fail, expect it.
6.Check the suspension, and shocks.
7.You get a handy outside bonus 5th tire, make the other four are bolted to the machine.
8.Last but not least, Jeeps are highly dependable machines-you will dump capital into them though, either thru willingness or thru necessity as with any used machine, the only difference between a Jeep and the rest is about 10 words, "Jeeps are awesome"

If all of those basic things are covered above, then buy away and welcome to the club!
08-17-2010 08:02 AM
crozewski Well I plan to head back to see the Jeep on Wednesday afternoon and give it a drive around. I'll be sure to check the areas mentioned more. How temperamental is the carbureted engine? Can I count on it to start up or am I going to be crossing my fingers and then cursing when it won't start and I'm late to work?


Thanks
08-17-2010 07:44 AM
UABYJ94 If it hasn't already been done you can look research the nutter bypass and the team rush mod on it and if it still has the weber carb I would definetly upgrade to the 2100. You will think its night and day between the 2.
Can you post pics for everyone to see. Take pics of the places mentioned by ibuildembig
that way ppl can give you a better response.
08-16-2010 08:42 PM
crozewski So here's what I found out. The Jeep has some rust on the outside of the vehicle, rust bubbles and whatnot. The undercarriage seems pretty straight with minimal rust. The guy is a mechanic and works on big rigs. He showed me that he put a new gasket on the rear diff. Interior is in pretty decent shape as well.

Just ran the carfax:

Total Loss
No total loss reported to CARFAX.

No Issues Reported
Structural / Frame Damage
No structural / frame damage reported to CARFAX.

No Issues Reported
Airbag Deployment
No airbag deployment reported to CARFAX.

No Issues Reported
Odometer Rollback
No indication of an odometer rollback.

No Issues Indicated
Accident / Damage
Accident reported on 10/15/2005.

Accident Reported
Manufacturer Recall
At least 1 manufacturer recall requires repair.
Recall
Reported
Basic Warranty
No data reported to CARFAX.
No Data
Reported
06/15/1990 55 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Hasbrouck Heights, NJ Title issued or updated
First owner reported
07/23/1999 101,801 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Hasbrouck Heights, NJ Title issued or updated
06/20/2001 105,324 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Caldwell, NJ
Title #WN20011710040 Title issued or updated
07/18/2001 105,340 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Newark, NJ
Title #WN20011990052 Title issued or updated
02/20/2002 108,000 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Newark, NJ
Title #NK20020510377 Title issued or updated
New owner reported
09/27/2002 Chrysler Manufacturer Safety recall issued
#B03 PARK BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Click here for a copy of the owner letter for this Recall or call 1- 800-853-1403 if you have any questions or need additional information on this recall.
03/02/2003 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Newark, NJ Registration updated when owner moved
the vehicle to a new location
11/10/2003 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Charlotte, NC
Title #777664033144122 Registration issued or renewed
New owner reported
10/20/2004 139,601 North Carolina
Inspection Station
Pineville, NC Passed emissions inspection
10/15/2005 New Jersey
Damage Report Accident reported
Involving left front impact
It hit another motor vehicle
Left front primarily damaged
10/21/2005 148,490 North Carolina
Inspection Station
Charlotte, NC Passed emissions inspection
09/25/2006 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Newark, NJ Registration issued or renewed
Vehicle color noted as Tan
09/25/2006 157,000 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Newark, NJ
Title #SP20062680452 Title issued or updated
New owner reported
03/05/2010 166,892 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
West Orange, NJ
Title #V320100640020 Title issued or updated
New owner reported
Vehicle color noted as Tan
03/11/2010 New Jersey
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Orange, NJ
Title #EO20100700210 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
Vehicle color noted as Tan
08-16-2010 02:05 PM
Ibuildembig Specifics about what's in my shop and driveway? lol
Honestly, I think you would be better off with a 91+ Wrangler. They are fuel injected and run a ton better in climate changes. But, if the 90 is what you want you better be looking at the frame and tub for one. I already mentioned the prone frame areas...but the body ones can differ. Tops and side of the front fenders, winshield frame inside and out, driver and passenger kick panels where it says "jeep" on the sides, then right behind the trailing edge of the door behind the seatbelt, and for some reason right above the rear fender flare.

As far as the motor is concerned, they have been around for a long long time so they are proven. But, you don't know who has messed with all the wires and vaccum lines up till now, and if you don't know what your looking at you may never see a problem if there is one.
08-16-2010 02:00 PM
crozewski
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
Oh wow, didnt realize you were up there ....no way I could survive up there, I have way too much junk in my shop/driveway lol. Carbs work ok but only if they are driven frequently, but they will require some attention every so often.
Can you give me some specifics? Stuff I should be asking/looking for today?
08-16-2010 01:39 PM
Ibuildembig Oh wow, didnt realize you were up there ....no way I could survive up there, I have way too much junk in my shop/driveway lol. Carbs work ok but only if they are driven frequently, but they will require some attention every so often.
08-16-2010 01:30 PM
crozewski Thanks for the advise thus far guys. One thing to note, being in the NYC metro area means there is no place to work. Good luck getting someone to allow you to work in their driveway for a few hours.

So I'll check the frame. I've never owned a car with a carb, just direct injection. I know there are many differences. On a day to day basis, what will be different? Warm up? Adjustments to the carb? Reliability?

Thanks again
08-16-2010 01:20 PM
Ibuildembig There are 3 main rust prone areas if its a northern vehicle...steering box area, fuel filter area, and rear shackle area. But honestly, its not that big of a deal if your mechanical to swap out a frame. I can have the body off one in about 45 minutes.
08-16-2010 01:15 PM
4Jeepn Check frame over real good for rust. Also this is a carb, so make sure all the vac lines are there or appear to be there.
08-16-2010 01:13 PM
toshpate yeah I paid abuot that for my 89 but it has since fallen apart, be careful and hope you are mechanical or no someone who is, love my YJ but they have issues ha ha
08-16-2010 01:01 PM
Ibuildembig No matter what I would say its worth it...top and doors will sell no problem if you decide to part it out. Where is it at? That has alot to do with rust damage
08-16-2010 12:52 PM
crozewski
Looking at a '90 Wrangler today. What to check out?

Hey all. Looking at a 1990 wrangler today. Looking for some advise on what to be on the lookout for. This will be my first Jeep. Looking for something to be a daily driver and take me through the tough NJ winters, and then have a good time with the top off in the summer.

Here are the details from the ad:

1990 JEEP WRANGLER SAHARA - $2400
WRANGLER SAHARA, 6 CYL, 5 SPD MANUAL, HARDTOP, FRAME IN VERY VERY GOOD SHAPE, MINOR BODY RUST, RIGHT FENDER DAMAGED, 90% ON TIRES, RUNS GOOD, CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS OR TO TAKE A LOOK 166,000MI

Appreciate any advise I can get.

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