|04-28-2011 10:16 PM|
|04-14-2011 06:32 AM|
|BigHazard||My 99 is a closed system. No bleeder at all. STOOOOOOPID|
|04-13-2011 05:40 PM|
|Jitney||idk if this will help but just put a new slave cylinder in one of my 94's pump the clutch pedal like 20 times or more then unscrew the bleeder real quick and then keep doing that until the pedal feels good, and do it with the cap off the master cylinder.|
|04-13-2011 10:47 AM|
|Undead-89||I was going to say, be glad you have the external Slave, but since you had to replace the throwout Bearing anyway, it was almost the same as the internal.|
|04-13-2011 08:41 AM|
I hope I save someone else some time here.
I have a 99 wrangler with a 4.0 I was driving down the road and my clutch pedal got rock hard so I forced it down and all of a sudden I had nothing. So I see fluid at the slave cylinder and I bought one.
I bought my stuff from Oreilly’s for 100$ that’s a 150$ discount over the dealer and its identical (clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder). I called my buddy Griff and had him check and he could get the system at 100$ over my local auto parts store and he told me to buy Oreilly’s stuff. (Griff is a Jeep Master Tech). If you got the cash not having to do all the bleeding would be great. But well. I don’t.
I did my slave cylinder first and this is how. Fill it as full as you can get it remove the straps and pump it by hand 30 times. Reinstall the straps and fill it again and have it waiting. Remove your old one get the pin out and just put the line in and reinstall roll pin. I put a cotter key through my pins just because it made me feel better about it. Take your door off and run your hood back to the windshield. You can pump it by hand and still look at the top of the master cylinder. So I thought it was all good.
Still nothing. I pull it back out and I put a long screw driver into the housing to depress the clutch fork and it seemed like it would move 3 inches. So now I am thinking pressure plate. I bought an entire kit with bearings, clutch and pressure plate and all put it in and I am glad I did. Anyway throw out bearing was bad and so was the bearing in the engine (pilot bearing). This is probably the hang up that caused all of this. Maybe you shouldn’t force your clutch pedal down? So I put it back together again and still nothing. This is where I think I screwed up. I didn’t disconnect the slave from the lines. I unbolted it from the bell housing. So I shouldn’t have had to bleed it again. (SIDE NOTE: Jeep engineers your idiots!!! How is it that a transmission has 5 different bell housing bolts in it from 2 different directions? The 2 biggest bolts hold on the dustcover? You also need a special socket for the top 2. It’s a 6 point reverse torx. That’s what I would call it. I am sure it has a better name.)
I took the slave cylinder back off and checked it and it seemed to be fine. I re bled it again off the jeep by hand refilling it again. Nothing. So I decided its worth 30$ at Oreilly’s to know its not my master cylinder. I bought one and put it on. Put the stupid little plastic cap on the end of the rod, if you don’t do it now you will get to later.
Bleed it again and a again and then bleed it some more. I seriously had to pump it 100 times before I started counting and I pumped it a 100 more and I was still getting air. I took my door off so I could see in the master cylinder while pumping the clutch and I was still getting air. Oh and take the little cone seal out of the master cylinder. it was hard to see on mine and it doesn’t do any good to bleed it with it in there. The only reason I noticed this was because I looked at the cap. I am like where the hell is the seal ( I am thinking it should be like a brake master cylinder seal just up in the cap. Looking all over like and idiot so look at the old one and its missing too. Then I see it. Felt like a moron. But now I am a moron that knows.
I am not sure I needed the master cylinder but oh well it’s on there and its fixed. If I was going to do it again it would be a breeze. But the school of hard knocks never is. I hope this helps you. I would do this again because I am going to keep this little Jeep around for a long time and I will go through this again. Next time I will know and it won’t take me several hours.
|08-29-2010 10:49 AM|
|brain||im haveing the same problem but i have a hydrolic thro out bearing replaced master cylinder an bleed it drives great when its cold but when gets hot it dont shift good and want go in reverse. HELP ME PLEASE|
|08-26-2010 12:20 PM|
|hermesgrafix||Update. Well got the new Master Clutch Cyl in today and installed and bleed. This was the problem with the soft clutch. Something popped the day all this happened and I guess that was the problem. Installed the new and pressed on the clutch and had pressure, now drives good again.|
|08-20-2010 06:02 PM|
Update. Well today I got home and re-bled the Slave, ran almost a small bottle of the fluid through it, and it helped a little bit. Still have to go to the floor to get the clutch, and still having a problem with reverse. Felt like while driving around the block, some of the gears were tight to catch, but pumped the pedal and would catch. I am pretty sure I have all the fluid out of the system.
NOW Here is the BIG question. I had 2 people tell me today they had issues with something like this in the past and they cam out with the shaft in the Slave was not long enough, and they added 1/4 inch to the rod (not sure how) and it worked perfectly. With that being said, does anyone think this is possible with installing all new stuff? Should I take the old rod and try to extend it by welding or something to add 1/4 to it? Has anyone had this issue before and thought about fixing this way? If this doesn't work, then I am looking at replacing the Clutch master cyl? Thanks
|08-20-2010 07:39 AM|
|UABYJ94||Oh and get the prefilled kit, its already together and all you have to do is bolt it up and go..The tab on the slave is made to break the fierst time you step on the clutch pedal so remember not to cut that white tab off.|
|08-20-2010 07:38 AM|
Don't buy anymore clutch parts from the local parts house. They are getting them made cheaply and dangerously in China and are not worth the gas to go to the parts house.
Go to clutchcity.com or look online for an dealership online and get their price then go to your local dealership and try to get them to price match. Have the qoute from the website to show them and if they dont match then smile as you go home to order it.. OEM is the safest and longest lasting way to go with hydraulic parts aswell as most other parts. Otherwise we look at constantly changing them out...
|08-19-2010 09:23 PM|
|Mrjeepsta||Try replacing the clutch master that seems to be the only option left|
|08-19-2010 09:18 PM|
|hermesgrafix||Well, did not change the bearing in the flywheel. The throwout bearing is what went. When I removed everything the clutch was fairly new, someone had changed it not long ago, but did not change the throwout bearing. Well went out tand opend the M/C pushed the clutch all the way to the floor, and no fluid movement inside the M/C, next?|
|08-19-2010 09:05 PM|
|Mrjeepsta||Did you replace the berring inside the flywheel?|
|08-19-2010 09:02 PM|
|hermesgrafix||Tried to bleed like the brakes, but I could not build up any pressure. The pop was before I installed everything new. I will check out the fluid.|
|08-19-2010 08:28 PM|
Did you bleed it thru the bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder?
Bleed it just like you do brakes??
Did you buy the slave and m/c from local parts house or order from oem supplier?
Unless it was an OEM replacement part its not a very safe replacement. They will go out at the most unoppurtune time.
The pop you heard was one of 2 things 1st being the tabs on the slave doing what they are suppose to do the first time you depress the clutch after install or the seal in the master cylinder. Open the top of the reservoir and push the pedal to the floor and see if the fluid is slowly filling back up in there while the pedal is held to the floor. If it is then the m/c is bad.
|08-19-2010 07:26 PM|
Clutch Issue, New parts no pedal
OK, kind of lost at this point. Got a 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0. The clutch went out and so I replaced it. Installed a New Clutch, Pressure plate and throwout bearing. Got everything done and had issues with the clutch pedal. Had to depress the pedal all the way to the floor, and release about an inch and would catch, but could not put into reverse. Can turn the Jeep off, put in reverse and reverse would work. Well thought it was the Clutch Slave, removed to check and the end completely blew out! So ordered a new Slave, Installed and bleed the best I could and still have the issues. Like there is no pressure on the pedal. I really need some suggestions. The day the clutch went out the clutch pedal was locked in middle, got the truck home and my dad put some pressure on the pedal and it released with a loud bang. Need some suggestions.
1. Possible I did not bleed the system good? What is the best way to Bleed and how tight should it get?
Any suggestions that I can look at? Thanks??