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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-27-2014 04:26 PM
fljeepleo
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAG00 View Post

I believe it is 11mm.
Awesome! Thanks!
01-27-2014 10:31 AM
MAG00
Quote:
Originally Posted by fljeepleo View Post
Thread hijack! What's the bleeder wrench size?
I believe it is 11mm.
01-25-2014 07:23 PM
fljeepleo Thread hijack! What's the bleeder wrench size?
01-23-2014 01:00 PM
14JKU
Quote:
Originally Posted by fljeepleo View Post
I have the crown lines I haven't installed yet. They are much longer than stock but have the bracket built into them. I'm wondering if I should use the bracket or not.... Any opinions?
Yes...definately use the bracket. Keeps the lines out of harms way and looks cleaner. You will have to zip tie the ABS lines to the new brake lines.
01-23-2014 11:32 AM
Barmanvarn I did the same. Remove the bracket, ran the line between the coil and shock, and zip tied the line to the shock.
01-23-2014 11:29 AM
KrawlOff-Road.com MAG00, what year is your JK again? On the 2012+'s plus, the stock lines are longer than the earlier JK's. Now, as to what Matador said them being the same length as the RK lines, that might be true. I have never compaired the two. I DO know that RK changed the break lines around a bit since the 2012's came out. Not sure if they made them longer or what. Still at the end of the day, your going from the rubber hose to the stainless steel brake lines which is a nice upgrade in my eyes.

As for the routing, like jadmt said, as long as you get them most use out of the length and it clears everything during the suspension cycle, your good!

Hope that helps some...

-Jason
01-22-2014 10:27 AM
fljeepleo I have the crown lines I haven't installed yet. They are much longer than stock but have the bracket built into them. I'm wondering if I should use the bracket or not.... Any opinions?
01-22-2014 09:45 AM
Matador If you bought your new brake lines from RK your probably going to realize that they are the same length as the stock. The only advantage in terms of length is the fact that your not using that bracket. By zip-tying it to the bracket's mounting point your cutting off the needed length. I would just zip tie it to the shock, that gives you the added length you need for the new lift.
01-21-2014 09:15 AM
MAG00
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
I zipped tied mine to the lower portion of the front shock. I then went to the rti ramp and made sure it did not bind anywhere and it did not. go to AEV website and pull up direction for the 2" lift and it explains what I did. AEV told me they have not had any problems doing it this way.
Thanks for the information. I went to the website and saw what you are talking about. Thanks.
01-21-2014 06:03 AM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAG00 View Post
Any thoughts or recommendations?
I zipped tied mine to the lower portion of the front shock. I then went to the rti ramp and made sure it did not bind anywhere and it did not. go to AEV website and pull up direction for the 2" lift and it explains what I did. AEV told me they have not had any problems doing it this way.
01-20-2014 10:39 PM
MAG00 Any thoughts or recommendations?
01-20-2014 01:58 PM
MAG00 Here are some pics for reference. (Sorry for the sideways pic)

First pic is the new front brake line and the second is the factory line with the metal bracket on it that was mounted below the front spring perch.
01-20-2014 12:17 PM
MAG00
Routing new Front Brake Lines

I just installed my new SS brake lines in prep for my RK 2.5 Max Travel lift. I have a question as far as routing the new brake lines.

The factory front brake line and ABS line ran from the wheel to a bracket that was mounting just below the bottom spring perch and the lower shock mount. When I took the factory brake line off you have to take the bracket off cause it bends around the brake line. The ABS line was plastic tied to it so I just cut those off.

For the time being I just ran the new brake line with the ABS line and zip tied them together. But this puts the lines between the coil and shock. I zip tied them to the screw hole left from the bracket to ensure they down get into the coil. Kind of same concept as factory.

How do you have your front lines routed? What is the best way to ensure they don't get damaged or hung up in the coils? I think I may leave them the way I have them and just make sure they are tied down to where the original bracket was and make sure there is plenty of slack from that point on for flex.

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