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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-22-2014 06:06 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by basecamper View Post
off fender to straight edge on tire and off shock tower to edge of tire Jeep dealer or local garage for alignment? Thanks again!!
Do your tires have mold lines ? I found the best way to measure. Front spring perch to a mold line each tire.
07-22-2014 06:03 PM
basecamper
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I don't think toe in will. Steering wheel will be off again.

How do you measure axle center ...points of measure ?

off fender to straight edge on tire and off shock tower to edge of tire

Jeep dealer or local garage for alignment?

Thanks again!!
07-22-2014 03:31 PM
kjeeper10 I don't think toe in will. Steering wheel will be off again.

How do you measure axle center ...points of measure ?
07-22-2014 02:30 PM
basecamper
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Make some calls first A standard alignment won't have the axle centered. Go to a 4x4 or jeep shop that knows lifted jeeps.

The only adjustments are toe and steering.... You're right.

Toe always looks out on a JK the way the body slopes in. I bet it's fine. Doesn't hurt to dial in things perfectly thought.

You want .08 to .10 each side (toe in)
Caster is set with the brackets 4.5 to 5.0 each side.
Camber not adjustable.
kjeeper10 Thanks for the help! So if I have the alignment toe checked/corrected to .08-.10 and the steering wheel centered. Will me centering the axle after this cause issues to the toe/steering wheel centering?

Not finding a 4x4 shop near me so between a Jeep dealer or local shops which is best for alignments?
Thanks Again!!
07-22-2014 01:33 PM
kjeeper10 Make some calls first A standard alignment won't have the axle centered. Go to a 4x4 or jeep shop that knows lifted jeeps.

The only adjustments are toe and steering.... You're right.

Toe always looks out on a JK the way the body slopes in. I bet it's fine. Doesn't hurt to dial in things perfectly thought.

You want .08 to .10 each side (toe in)
Caster is set with the brackets 4.5 to 5.0 each side.
Camber not adjustable.
07-22-2014 12:31 PM
basecamper Great thread!! I have a couple questions for you folks

Set up: I just added a AEV dualsport 2 1/2" lift, TF Front Monster Adj Track bar, and Rancho control arm correction brackets to my 2012 JKUR with GY Duratrac 33" tires on 16" wheels.

Questions:
1) When I schedule a alignment what do I ask for/ exactly will they do? They will adj Toe (currently appears to toe out rather than in), Will they center the steering wheel (I got it close but not perfect), what about centering the axle (again I got it close but not perfect), Anything else I should ask for/about or make them aware of?

2) Where do you go? I have several places that do alignments within 10 miles of my house but my Jeep dealer is 25 miles away. Is it best to go to a Jeep dealer?

Any other tips would be much appreciated as I have never done this before.
07-14-2014 09:59 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurkTTR View Post
I've been wondering about this recently... I have adjustable UCAs and I've been thinking of adding adjustable LCAs and stretching the wheelbase just a little bit. I know that if I go too far, I'll have to move the shock mounts, sway bar mounts, get longer driveshafts, etc. But what is the limit to this? How far can I move the axles front and rear without having to start cutting and welding on the frame? I'm trying to push back that type of thing as long as I can...
I think 1-2" is the most. Don't forget the steering box, track bar mounts and perches, fender clearance.
Most common is the rear 1" or so.
I'm taking maybe .5 that's it. Nothing crazy.
07-14-2014 09:27 AM
TurkTTR
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
...I just installed upper arms at stock length and soon deciding on a lower. I may cheat wheelbase a little but leave the angles the sAme...
I've been wondering about this recently... I have adjustable UCAs and I've been thinking of adding adjustable LCAs and stretching the wheelbase just a little bit. I know that if I go too far, I'll have to move the shock mounts, sway bar mounts, get longer driveshafts, etc. But what is the limit to this? How far can I move the axles front and rear without having to start cutting and welding on the frame? I'm trying to push back that type of thing as long as I can...
07-12-2014 01:24 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax4499 View Post
I like when a person takes charge of a common problem. Im sure i will have a few questions when my 2.5 RK X-Factor kit gets to my door.
Welcome to the forum Max
07-12-2014 01:15 PM
madmax4499 I like when a person takes charge of a common problem. Im sure i will have a few questions when my 2.5 RK X-Factor kit gets to my door.
07-11-2014 08:04 PM
kjeeper10 Replied
07-11-2014 07:54 PM
Barmanvarn
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Personal preference. The brackets are fine up to 4.5". You gain clearance with tire size. I know a few guys running rock monsters on 37's + running drop brackets. I just installed upper arms at stock length and soon deciding on a lower. I may cheat wheelbase a little but leave the angles the sAme. Yoo dig
I dig.

Not upgrading tires. Sticking with 35s for now.

Just want a little more lift and personal preference is to ditch the drops for adjustables.

Still in the planning phase right now.
07-11-2014 07:48 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
It did handle a lot better but won't i want adjustable if I go up to 3.5? I like to get the clearance back and these drop brackets aren't the sexist thing in the world. Ya dig? I have a thread started to plan out my upgrade. Am waiting on feedback right now.
Personal preference. The brackets are fine up to 4.5". You gain clearance with tire size. I know a few guys running rock monsters on 37's + running drop brackets.
I just installed upper arms at stock length and soon deciding on a lower. I may cheat wheelbase a little but leave the angles the sAme.

Yoo dig
07-11-2014 07:43 PM
Barmanvarn
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You have the Rancho's right ? What's good about them .. You will drop some caster the higher you go. I'm at 4" and pinion angle is 1.5-2* (4 caster) 5-6 is not good at 4+ inches of lift height. You're really pushing the angle of the drive shaft. I bet the jeep handled a lot better ?
It did handle a lot better but won't i want adjustable if I go up to 3.5? I like to get the clearance back and these drop brackets aren't the sexist thing in the world. Ya dig?

I have a thread started to plan out my upgrade. Am waiting on feedback right now.
07-11-2014 07:19 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
Ok. Good. Figured I'd get to learning this as I hope to add adjustables soon in advance of going up to 3.5. Thanks Ken.
You have the Rancho's right ?
What's good about them .. You will drop some caster the higher you go. I'm at 4" and pinion angle is 1.5-2* (4 caster)
5-6 is not good at 4+ inches of lift height. You're really pushing the angle of the drive shaft.

I bet the jeep handled a lot better ?
07-11-2014 07:13 PM
Barmanvarn
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
= 5* caster. That's about normal for TF 2.5 and Rancho brackets. AEV = 4.5 +/- 4 to 5 degrees is perfect.
Ok. Good.

Figured I'd get to learning this as I hope to add adjustables soon in advance of going up to 3.5.

Thanks Ken.
07-11-2014 07:10 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
Finally got off my lazy butt. Running a 2.5 TF with the control arm drop brackets. If I did it correctly, I'm showing barely if even 1 degree of pinion. Discuss.
= 5* caster. That's about normal for TF 2.5 and Rancho brackets. AEV = 4.5 +/-
4 to 5 degrees is perfect.
07-11-2014 07:00 PM
Barmanvarn Finally got off my lazy butt.

Running a 2.5 TF with the control arm drop brackets. If I did it correctly, I'm showing barely if even 1 degree of pinion.

Discuss.
07-11-2014 12:43 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciphershort View Post
If I can't do both the track bar will definitely be priority for sure.
07-11-2014 12:23 PM
ciphershort If I can't do both the track bar will definitely be priority for sure.
07-11-2014 12:19 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciphershort View Post
Thanks. I figured it was spot on but its always good to get a second opinion. Hopefully I'll be able to get my front LCAs and front track bar this year to give me some better handling! Funny you should mention the 9/16 bolt upgrade. I actually had a nut randomly disappear from my rear axle-side LCA and could not for the life of me find a replacement. A quick search on the bolt quickly lead me to all sorts of stuff on the 9/16 bolts. So I bought one to replace it at a local Fastenal. I felt a lot better about it than the crappy factory bolt. I should have bought all new bolts to begin with and I think my philosophy will be now if I remove a factory bolt, replace it with a new one.
The front track bar is so important because of Death wobble.
07-11-2014 12:12 PM
ciphershort Thanks. I figured it was spot on but its always good to get a second opinion. Hopefully I'll be able to get my front LCAs and front track bar this year to give me some better handling!

Funny you should mention the 9/16 bolt upgrade. I actually had a nut randomly disappear from my rear axle-side LCA and could not for the life of me find a replacement. A quick search on the bolt quickly lead me to all sorts of stuff on the 9/16 bolts. So I bought one to replace it at a local Fastenal. I felt a lot better about it than the crappy factory bolt. I should have bought all new bolts to begin with and I think my philosophy will be now if I remove a factory bolt, replace it with a new one.
07-11-2014 10:45 AM
kjeeper10 5/8 longer then stock sets the arms about 23-231/8 which is perfect. Their response is spot on. You should look into the 9/16 bolt upgrade if you haven't done so. Northridge 4x4 sells a kit that supplies all nuts/bolts and washers for lower CA's and both TB's. 2nd option would be replacing just the two front TB bolts along with your track bar.

Tires have little do do with caster angle. You do want to make sure toe in is set properly. Too much or not enough can cause similar symptoms.

Thanks for the props
07-11-2014 10:23 AM
ciphershort So this thread has done me more good than probably any thread I've read since I installed my lift. So props to kjeeper10 for sure.

With all that being said, I installed a TF 2.5 coil lift on my JKU about 6 months ago. Since then, I've had flighty steering. I can compensate for it so it isn't terrible to the point of not being able to drive the thing but it makes me uneasy sometimes. So I did some reading and decided to look into front LCAs and a front Track bar. I emailed TF to ask them about measurements to correct my issue and this is what they said:

Quote:
Some Jeeps will get a little flighty do to the loss of steering caster. Front lower adjustable control arms #1653700 will correct the caster issue. You will adjust the arms about 5/8” – 3/ 4” longer that the stock arms, this will bring back the caster angle. I would definitely recommend our HD forged front track bar #1753418. This will allow you to center the front axle, and it’s strength will resist shimmy or death wobble. Both of those additions will make a positive difference in the handling of your Jeep.
I assume TF knows there stuff but is this about the LCA length people have found that is needed to correct caster? Now currently, I'm running the tires that came with my JK (265/70r17...roughly 31.6x10.4) but am looking to go to either 33s or 35s (if I can afford the re-gear) in the not so distant future. Will tire size affect the measurements or not? It doesn't seem like it would in my head but all this angle crap makes my head hurt so I just figured I'd ask.

Thanks!
07-10-2014 11:52 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMINUS View Post
You've been a great help. Thanks much. I still can't believe how much better it drives now. I just wish I got the initial printout before he corrected everything. I'll have to check the ball joint maybe this weekend.
Good luck man
07-10-2014 11:40 AM
DOMINUS
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Toe out of range was prob your issue. Besides caster (adjustable CA's) to is the only adjustable spec.
I assume your ball joint(s) are worn. Not enough to cause issues but show bad camber in the left wheel. Remember, you have dual Fox stabs up front. Any little vibe/shimmy is prob being masked.

Checking your ball joints is very easy. Just jack each tire up 3-4" and pry up with a shovel/pry bar. You will hear a clanking noise. And If you look at where the boot meats the knuckle .. You will see movement too.
You've been a great help. Thanks much. I still can't believe how much better it drives now. I just wish I got the initial printout before he corrected everything. I'll have to check the ball joint maybe this weekend.
07-10-2014 11:18 AM
kjeeper10 Toe out of range was prob your issue. Besides caster (adjustable CA's) to is the only adjustable spec.
I assume your ball joint(s) are worn. Not enough to cause issues but show bad camber in the left wheel. Remember, you have dual Fox stabs up front. Any little vibe/shimmy is prob being masked.

Checking your ball joints is very easy. Just jack each tire up 3-4" and pry up with a shovel/pry bar. You will hear a clanking noise. And If you look at where the boot meats the knuckle .. You will see movement too.
07-10-2014 11:04 AM
DOMINUS
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
How come he did not do a caster sweep ? Just curious.

Camber can be a bad ball joint or bent C. How many miles on your ball joints ?
I have 45,200 on mine now. I don't get any weird sensations coming through the wheel or anywhere. No vibrations, no wobbles, no unusual noises. Does anything look out of whack to you with the exception of the left front wheel? I mean all green should mean all is well right?
07-10-2014 10:45 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMINUS View Post
I finally was able to get my alignment done. What a difference that made in the handling. The Jeep doesn't wander anymore. It was a chore to keep her going straight. Now it is a relaxed affair. My left front tire is still a little off according to the printout and I wasn't able to get a printout of what it was before the corrections were made but man what a difference. The sloppy loose feel in the steering is all but gone because the tires are actually sitting properly on the road and giving some sense of feedback. I actually now know what the hell the front tires are doing.
How come he did not do a caster sweep ? Just curious.

Camber can be a bad ball joint or bent C. How many miles on your ball joints ?
07-10-2014 10:10 AM
DOMINUS I finally was able to get my alignment done. What a difference that made in the handling. The Jeep doesn't wander anymore. It was a chore to keep her going straight. Now it is a relaxed affair. My left front tire is still a little off according to the printout and I wasn't able to get a printout of what it was before the corrections were made but man what a difference. The sloppy loose feel in the steering is all but gone because the tires are actually sitting properly on the road and giving some sense of feedback. I actually now know what the hell the front tires are doing.
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