|01-18-2015 09:20 PM|
|JThorny||Will do. Thanks again kjeeper....|
|01-18-2015 07:03 PM|
Take this is measure true front coil height.
|01-18-2015 07:02 PM|
|JThorny||For a 1.5" front lift....|
|01-18-2015 07:01 PM|
No, have not checked caster yet. I really should. Are you are talking about this front LCA.
Synergy Manufacturing 8047 - Synergy Manufacturing Front Lower High Clearance Fixed Length Control Arms for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
I was thinking about this just don't have the experience to equate to in caster, but as mentioned in the link:
Stock: 6.5 Degrees
2" Lift: 5.5 Degrees
3" Lift: 5.0 Degrees
4.5" Lift: 4.5 Degrees
So I am guessing if I installed these I would be at 5.2 Deg ish??? They mention that with a 3" lift it would bring you back to the stock 5.0 deg Caster. What do you think???
|01-18-2015 06:36 PM|
Edit 3/16 .. Not much maybe a degree change if run alone.
|01-18-2015 06:30 PM|
|JThorny||Much appreciated kjeeper..... I think I will go with front control arms and put rear track bar and bracket on hold until if and when I really need it. Great stuff man.|
|01-18-2015 06:02 PM|
Flex or articulation is all shock travel. Up travel is limited by bump stop, tires (hitting flares) or component interference.
The AEV bracket is tall but bump stops are included. The track bar runs up closer to the exhaust pipe. It will contact without bump stop.
I just feel you don't have enough height to warrant a rear track bar bracket. If you're dead set on one ... The TF At least gives you a lower mounting hole. You will need a track bar because the axle will over correct. Then run a flex check and make sure nothing hits. Adjust bump stop as needed.
The shocks you mentioned, look at their compressed length. That's what matters. Stock rubicon shocks are just under 15" and I believe the 2" OME's are too.
|01-18-2015 05:43 PM|
Thanks for the quick reply kjeeper.
So front LCA or UCA sounds good. Do you have a recommendation between UCA or LCA? (I think you made mention earlier in the thread so I could look myself I guess.)
I took a quick measurement and found the rear axel 1/4" offset to the passenger side but as you mentioned no wife and kids on board so sounds like not enough to be concerned about.
I did not mention this before but one interesting piece of information I came across is that, as I understand it ,the AEV rear TB bracket raises the mount 6"? So the thought was that maybe lifting the roll center for better handling with a 3" lift TB bracket like TF (link below). Assuming that someone sells an adjustable rear TB that can be adjusted shorter than stock and not make contact on frame or exhaust pipe (could cut down myself I guess). Just don't want to have to add bump stop for a rear track bar at this height if possable. But again could be overkill.
Teraflex 1954776 - TeraFlex Rear Trackbar Bracket for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 2.5" Lift - Quadratec
Interesting that you mention shocks, I was looking at going OME 2" lift Nitro shocks which if I am not mistaken has about the same compression length and gives you about 3/4" longer drop in front and about 1" longer drop in back.
Adding bump stop is something I don't want to do if I can get away with it as I am going for maximum articulation with out much lift for now.
Anyway, awesome thread and special thanks for jkeeper for putting up with noobie's like me.
|01-18-2015 02:55 PM|
I'm not sure why the rear would feel like that. Assuming the shocks are in good shape ?
I'd think about a shock upgrade over anything.
As far as the MC bracket and TB. MC raises the rear TB really high, and you will need to add more bump stop. I know they had to reduce the height on 2 doors. I forget but 2 door guys had issues with a high roll center. Given your low lift height, I'm thinking you would have the same issues.
LCA's would not cure your rear end problems but would help with handling. I believe MC's uppers adjust smaller then stock ... Another option, and would save you some $$$
|01-18-2015 12:10 PM|
So this seems to be the place to get the low down on suspension adjustments. I have a couple of noobie questions. Running 10A shocks and springs on a 2014 JKU, About 1.5" front and 1" rear lift. Just wanted enough to run 285/17 33". After the install I notice the rear end being a bit more "waggy". Could be that I am just paying more attention though. The rear axel is visually off center to the passenger side. Right now this is my wife and kids car but in a couple years when they use all the new up I plan on some kind of LCG build with 35".
1) Been looking at the MK adjustable rear track bar and bracket which advertises "Max Travel".
2) Adjustable front track bar to center the front.
3)Front adjustable LCA for better handling on the road, but after reading some recent posts I think I may be good on this?.
Not afraid to spend a little money for a measurable improvement, or is all this just overkill.
|01-15-2015 10:50 PM|
|01-15-2015 10:46 PM|
|01-15-2015 04:33 PM|
Regardless, arms/brackets will improve handling.
|01-15-2015 04:25 PM|
Hey Man! I went and got my tires balanced today (they were pretty bad), and while there had them run an alignment...see attached.
the camber and toe seem good, I'm concerned (or wondering) about my caster...from the pic, LF is 2.9* and RF is 3.3*...these seem a little excessive to me, but the ride seems fine, I'm not noticing anything that seems off while driving...you think these caster numbers are ok for now? I'm not running any drop brackets or adj CA's, but was considering front lower and uppers...think that's warranted? just curious your thoughts?
|01-03-2015 03:38 PM|
one hell of a plan. The new JKS stuff looks pretty damn good.
Make sure you post a build thread. Can't wait to see it all together.
|01-03-2015 03:05 PM|
|01-03-2015 02:45 PM|
You said you have a full set of JKS Adjustable control arms. All 8 arms ?
Then you mention correction brackets. Typically control arms and brackets are not installed together. Both correct caster angle but the brackets correct geometry giving you better handling. Both brackets can be installed together as long as the arms adjust stock.
1) are you going to wheel ? If running longer shocks, it's a good idea to replace the front soon if not later. There's also bandaid fixed like exhaust spacers, Y-pipe or custom exhaust work to move the cross member back. If you don't wheel the jeep, you can wait on a front shaft.
4 door rear DS should last a while given its longer Length, just keep a eye on both CV joints for splits/grease splatter.
2) flipping the drank link andraising the track bar (need to be done together) correct geometry at 3+ inch lifts. I usually recommend installing the coils, get a feel for how the jeep steers. A Highsteer kit will fix Bumpsteer if you have it.
|01-03-2015 02:44 PM|
|abassillo||Yea I know, couple months and I will have 35 just one thing at a time|
|01-03-2015 02:39 PM|
|01-03-2015 02:22 PM|
First off thanks for all the info, this post is great! I am installing 3" lift spring this weekend on my jku w/ 33s. I also have a full set of jks adjustable control arms to put on with correction bracket.
1) is it recommended to replace the oe front/rear/both drive shafts when lifting a jk? Or is the caster caster correction enough?
2) at what lift height is there benefit to flipping the drag link?
|12-14-2014 05:20 PM|
Jadmt will second this, and his rig is the reason I'm going to start with only the RK 1.5" springs. Hie is all in spec with all stock control arms.
I'm currently putting together my gear. Swapping the stock rubicon bumpers for heavier 10A bumpers/winch combo and an AEV tire carrier (Craigslist score!). All I'm going to do to the suspension is RK 1.5" coils and 9000xls shocks with the teraflex rear swaybar relocator. (Just for starters)
|12-14-2014 07:12 AM|
Honestly-with a 4 door-You may not need caster corrected. It's not going to be life or death if the steering is a little flighty.
control arms or drop brackets can be installed easily later on. Id take the wait and see approach and save your money on alignment/caster angle.
|12-14-2014 06:31 AM|
Looking at 4 wheel installing the 1.5" RK coils with Rancho 9000's they said alignment cost would be 150 instead of 80 and $35 for some caster parts. Wouldnt they be better off installing the geometry brackets instead of a new caster and additional alignment costs?
They explained that to get it correctly after higher coils theres additional work drilling into the frame with caster, etc. I didnt understand what he was saying after that but I have not heard any of this mentioned on the forums before so thought I would consult with the pro's.
Sorry for the newb questions but I dont want them pulling a fast one on me and would rather take care of the problem correctly.
|12-13-2014 09:55 PM|
|12-13-2014 08:57 PM|
|Swampdigger||Finished up the alterations and locked everything down, Handles as good or better than new. Handles bumps and highway speed with no issue. Just got to center the steering wheel tomorrow. Thank you for your knowledge and help.|
|12-13-2014 01:10 PM|
|12-12-2014 11:59 PM|
|Swampdigger||Again many thanks and you have been most helpful|
|12-12-2014 11:22 PM|
|12-12-2014 09:32 PM|
|Swampdigger||The jku is now setup to carry a plow. I put on sumo spring bump stops and coil spacers. I plowed 14 years with a tj. Anything you suggest to do or watch out for with the jk ?|
|12-12-2014 08:02 PM|
|Swampdigger||Thanks. I'll try that and lock things down.|
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