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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-18-2015 09:20 PM
JThorny Will do. Thanks again kjeeper....
01-18-2015 07:03 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JThorny View Post
No, have not checked caster yet. I really should. Are you are talking about this front LCA. Synergy Manufacturing 8047 - Synergy Manufacturing Front Lower High Clearance Fixed Length Control Arms for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec I was thinking about this just don't have the experience to equate to in caster, but as mentioned in the link: Lift/Caster Measurements Stock: 6.5 Degrees 2" Lift: 5.5 Degrees 3" Lift: 5.0 Degrees 4.5" Lift: 4.5 Degrees So I am guessing if I installed these I would be at 5.2 Deg ish??? They mention that with a 3" lift it would bring you back to the stock 5.0 deg Caster. What do you think???
Yep, they are set I believe to the standard 23 1/8.

Take this is measure true front coil height.
01-18-2015 07:02 PM
JThorny For a 1.5" front lift....
01-18-2015 07:01 PM
JThorny No, have not checked caster yet. I really should. Are you are talking about this front LCA.
Synergy Manufacturing 8047 - Synergy Manufacturing Front Lower High Clearance Fixed Length Control Arms for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

I was thinking about this just don't have the experience to equate to in caster, but as mentioned in the link:

Lift/Caster Measurements
Stock: 6.5 Degrees
2" Lift: 5.5 Degrees
3" Lift: 5.0 Degrees
4.5" Lift: 4.5 Degrees

So I am guessing if I installed these I would be at 5.2 Deg ish??? They mention that with a 3" lift it would bring you back to the stock 5.0 deg Caster. What do you think???
01-18-2015 06:36 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JThorny View Post
Much appreciated kjeeper..... I think I will go with front control arms and put rear track bar and bracket on hold until if and when I really need it. Great stuff man.
did you ever run a caster check ? Synergy has a fixed arm. TF is releasing a fixed arm kit. Lowers are slightly longer then stock. I have the numbers somewhere if I can find them.
Edit 3/16 .. Not much maybe a degree change if run alone.
01-18-2015 06:30 PM
JThorny Much appreciated kjeeper..... I think I will go with front control arms and put rear track bar and bracket on hold until if and when I really need it. Great stuff man.
01-18-2015 06:02 PM
kjeeper10 Flex or articulation is all shock travel. Up travel is limited by bump stop, tires (hitting flares) or component interference.

The AEV bracket is tall but bump stops are included. The track bar runs up closer to the exhaust pipe. It will contact without bump stop.
I just feel you don't have enough height to warrant a rear track bar bracket. If you're dead set on one ... The TF At least gives you a lower mounting hole. You will need a track bar because the axle will over correct. Then run a flex check and make sure nothing hits. Adjust bump stop as needed.

The shocks you mentioned, look at their compressed length. That's what matters. Stock rubicon shocks are just under 15" and I believe the 2" OME's are too.
01-18-2015 05:43 PM
JThorny Thanks for the quick reply kjeeper.

So front LCA or UCA sounds good. Do you have a recommendation between UCA or LCA? (I think you made mention earlier in the thread so I could look myself I guess.)

I took a quick measurement and found the rear axel 1/4" offset to the passenger side but as you mentioned no wife and kids on board so sounds like not enough to be concerned about.

I did not mention this before but one interesting piece of information I came across is that, as I understand it ,the AEV rear TB bracket raises the mount 6"? So the thought was that maybe lifting the roll center for better handling with a 3" lift TB bracket like TF (link below). Assuming that someone sells an adjustable rear TB that can be adjusted shorter than stock and not make contact on frame or exhaust pipe (could cut down myself I guess). Just don't want to have to add bump stop for a rear track bar at this height if possable. But again could be overkill.

Teraflex 1954776 - TeraFlex Rear Trackbar Bracket for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 2.5" Lift - Quadratec

Interesting that you mention shocks, I was looking at going OME 2" lift Nitro shocks which if I am not mistaken has about the same compression length and gives you about 3/4" longer drop in front and about 1" longer drop in back.

Adding bump stop is something I don't want to do if I can get away with it as I am going for maximum articulation with out much lift for now.

Anyway, awesome thread and special thanks for jkeeper for putting up with noobie's like me.
01-18-2015 02:55 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JThorny View Post
So this seems to be the place to get the low down on suspension adjustments. I have a couple of noobie questions. Running 10A shocks and springs on a 2014 JKU, About 1.5" front and 1" rear lift. Just wanted enough to run 285/17 33". After the install I notice the rear end being a bit more "waggy". Could be that I am just paying more attention though. The rear axel is visually off center to the passenger side. Right now this is my wife and kids car but in a couple years when they use all the new up I plan on some kind of LCG build with 35". 1) Been looking at the MK adjustable rear track bar and bracket which advertises "Max Travel". 2) Adjustable front track bar to center the front. 3)Front adjustable LCA for better handling on the road, but after reading some recent posts I think I may be good on this?. Not afraid to spend a little money for a measurable improvement, or is all this just overkill.
The axle should not be shifted much at that height. @ 2.5" both axles shift about 3/8" .. Hardly enough to even need a adjustable track bar. I bet if you, the wife, and kids sit in the jeep. The axle would move back center under the jeep. Remember.. as the suspension moves up and down over the road. Thy also move sideways.

I'm not sure why the rear would feel like that. Assuming the shocks are in good shape ?
I'd think about a shock upgrade over anything.

As far as the MC bracket and TB. MC raises the rear TB really high, and you will need to add more bump stop. I know they had to reduce the height on 2 doors. I forget but 2 door guys had issues with a high roll center. Given your low lift height, I'm thinking you would have the same issues.

LCA's would not cure your rear end problems but would help with handling. I believe MC's uppers adjust smaller then stock ... Another option, and would save you some $$$
01-18-2015 12:10 PM
JThorny So this seems to be the place to get the low down on suspension adjustments. I have a couple of noobie questions. Running 10A shocks and springs on a 2014 JKU, About 1.5" front and 1" rear lift. Just wanted enough to run 285/17 33". After the install I notice the rear end being a bit more "waggy". Could be that I am just paying more attention though. The rear axel is visually off center to the passenger side. Right now this is my wife and kids car but in a couple years when they use all the new up I plan on some kind of LCG build with 35".

1) Been looking at the MK adjustable rear track bar and bracket which advertises "Max Travel".

2) Adjustable front track bar to center the front.

3)Front adjustable LCA for better handling on the road, but after reading some recent posts I think I may be good on this?.

Not afraid to spend a little money for a measurable improvement, or is all this just overkill.
01-15-2015 10:50 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mga088 View Post
Thanks man, as always your input is appreciated!
NP Man.
01-15-2015 10:46 PM
mga088
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Your call on that. Low 3's is not too bad. Your driveshaft is happier

Regardless, arms/brackets will improve handling.
Thanks man, as always your input is appreciated!
01-15-2015 04:33 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mga088 View Post
Hey Man! I went and got my tires balanced today (they were pretty bad), and while there had them run an alignment...see attached. the camber and toe seem good, I'm concerned (or wondering) about my caster...from the pic, LF is 2.9* and RF is 3.3*...these seem a little excessive to me, but the ride seems fine, I'm not noticing anything that seems off while driving...you think these caster numbers are ok for now? I'm not running any drop brackets or adj CA's, but was considering front lower and uppers...think that's warranted? just curious your thoughts?
Your call on that. Low 3's is not too bad. Your driveshaft is happier

Regardless, arms/brackets will improve handling.
01-15-2015 04:25 PM
mga088 Hey Man! I went and got my tires balanced today (they were pretty bad), and while there had them run an alignment...see attached.
the camber and toe seem good, I'm concerned (or wondering) about my caster...from the pic, LF is 2.9* and RF is 3.3*...these seem a little excessive to me, but the ride seems fine, I'm not noticing anything that seems off while driving...you think these caster numbers are ok for now? I'm not running any drop brackets or adj CA's, but was considering front lower and uppers...think that's warranted? just curious your thoughts?
01-03-2015 03:38 PM
kjeeper10 one hell of a plan. The new JKS stuff looks pretty damn good.
Make sure you post a build thread. Can't wait to see it all together.
01-03-2015 03:05 PM
abassillo
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Hopefully I can help you out

You said you have a full set of JKS Adjustable control arms. All 8 arms ?
Then you mention correction brackets. Typically control arms and brackets are not installed together. Both correct caster angle but the brackets correct geometry giving you better handling. Both brackets can be installed together as long as the arms adjust stock.
Thanks kjeeper10, very helpful! Yes I have all 8 arms and JKSMFG correction bracket (installing everything this weekend) my original plan was just to get the arms without the bracket, but I was understanding the geometry correction of the bracket was more then just caster. I figured the CA would allow for further fine tuning and allow for future expansion. Any negatives of running both? (they can adjust to less then oe length if needed)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
1) are you going to wheel ? If running longer shocks, it's a good idea to replace the front soon if not later. There's also bandaid fixed like exhaust spacers, Y-pipe or custom exhaust work to move the cross member back. If you don't wheel the jeep, you can wait on a front shaft.
4 door rear DS should last a while given its longer Length, just keep a eye on both CV joints for splits/grease splatter.
Yes not doing much wheeling now, but once everything is installed I definitely plan to, I will start looking at some front drive shafts, thanks! I so have the exhaust spacers in hand as well, I guess I will put them on for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
2) flipping the drank link andraising the track bar (need to be done together) correct geometry at 3+ inch lifts. I usually recommend installing the coils, get a feel for how the jeep steers. A Highsteer kit will fix Bumpsteer if you have it.
Great thanks I will keep it in the back of my mind for now. Appreciate it!
01-03-2015 02:45 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by abassillo View Post
First off thanks for all the info, this post is great! I am installing 3" lift spring this weekend on my jku w/ 33s. I also have a full set of jks adjustable control arms to put on with correction bracket. Two questions: 1) is it recommended to replace the oe front/rear/both drive shafts when lifting a jk? Or is the caster caster correction enough? 2) at what lift height is there benefit to flipping the drag link? Thanks!
Hopefully I can help you out

You said you have a full set of JKS Adjustable control arms. All 8 arms ?
Then you mention correction brackets. Typically control arms and brackets are not installed together. Both correct caster angle but the brackets correct geometry giving you better handling. Both brackets can be installed together as long as the arms adjust stock.

1) are you going to wheel ? If running longer shocks, it's a good idea to replace the front soon if not later. There's also bandaid fixed like exhaust spacers, Y-pipe or custom exhaust work to move the cross member back. If you don't wheel the jeep, you can wait on a front shaft.
4 door rear DS should last a while given its longer Length, just keep a eye on both CV joints for splits/grease splatter.

2) flipping the drank link andraising the track bar (need to be done together) correct geometry at 3+ inch lifts. I usually recommend installing the coils, get a feel for how the jeep steers. A Highsteer kit will fix Bumpsteer if you have it.
01-03-2015 02:44 PM
abassillo Yea I know, couple months and I will have 35 just one thing at a time
01-03-2015 02:39 PM
Seeuoffroad
Quote:
Originally Posted by abassillo View Post
First off thanks for all the info, this post is great! I am installing 3" lift spring this weekend on my jku w/ 33s. I also have a full set of jks adjustable control arms to put on with correction bracket. Two questions: 1) is it recommended to replace the oe front/rear/both drive shafts when lifting a jk? Or is the caster caster correction enough? 2) at what lift height is there benefit to flipping the drag link? Thanks!
Just an FYI those 33's are going to look small on a JKU with a 3" lift.
01-03-2015 02:22 PM
abassillo First off thanks for all the info, this post is great! I am installing 3" lift spring this weekend on my jku w/ 33s. I also have a full set of jks adjustable control arms to put on with correction bracket.

Two questions:

1) is it recommended to replace the oe front/rear/both drive shafts when lifting a jk? Or is the caster caster correction enough?

2) at what lift height is there benefit to flipping the drag link?

Thanks!
12-14-2014 05:20 PM
m4j2t
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Honestly-with a 4 door-You may not need caster corrected. It's not going to be life or death if the steering is a little flighty.
control arms or drop brackets can be installed easily later on. Id take the wait and see approach and save your money on alignment/caster angle.

Jadmt will second this, and his rig is the reason I'm going to start with only the RK 1.5" springs. Hie is all in spec with all stock control arms.

I'm currently putting together my gear. Swapping the stock rubicon bumpers for heavier 10A bumpers/winch combo and an AEV tire carrier (Craigslist score!). All I'm going to do to the suspension is RK 1.5" coils and 9000xls shocks with the teraflex rear swaybar relocator. (Just for starters)
12-14-2014 07:12 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaunswa View Post
Looking at 4 wheel installing the 1.5" RK coils with Rancho 9000's they said alignment cost would be 150 instead of 80 and $35 for some caster parts. Wouldnt they be better off installing the geometry brackets instead of a new caster and additional alignment costs? They explained that to get it correctly after higher coils theres additional work drilling into the frame with caster, etc. I didnt understand what he was saying after that but I have not heard any of this mentioned on the forums before so thought I would consult with the pro's. Sorry for the newb questions but I dont want them pulling a fast one on me and would rather take care of the problem correctly.
He wants to install cam bolts (aka caster bolts). They only provide a small amount of caster change and require squaring out the lower CA Mount holes.
Honestly-with a 4 door-You may not need caster corrected. It's not going to be life or death if the steering is a little flighty.
control arms or drop brackets can be installed easily later on. Id take the wait and see approach and save your money on alignment/caster angle.
12-14-2014 06:31 AM
Vaunswa Looking at 4 wheel installing the 1.5" RK coils with Rancho 9000's they said alignment cost would be 150 instead of 80 and $35 for some caster parts. Wouldnt they be better off installing the geometry brackets instead of a new caster and additional alignment costs?
They explained that to get it correctly after higher coils theres additional work drilling into the frame with caster, etc. I didnt understand what he was saying after that but I have not heard any of this mentioned on the forums before so thought I would consult with the pro's.
Sorry for the newb questions but I dont want them pulling a fast one on me and would rather take care of the problem correctly.
12-13-2014 09:55 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampdigger View Post
Finished up the alterations and locked everything down, Handles as good or better than new. Handles bumps and highway speed with no issue. Just got to center the steering wheel tomorrow. Thank you for your knowledge and help.
Nice glad to help.
12-13-2014 08:57 PM
Swampdigger Finished up the alterations and locked everything down, Handles as good or better than new. Handles bumps and highway speed with no issue. Just got to center the steering wheel tomorrow. Thank you for your knowledge and help.
12-13-2014 01:10 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampdigger View Post
Again many thanks and you have been most helpful
Anytime my friend.
12-12-2014 11:59 PM
Swampdigger Again many thanks and you have been most helpful
12-12-2014 11:22 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampdigger View Post
The jku is now setup to carry a plow. I put on sumo spring bump stops and coil spacers. I plowed 14 years with a tj. Anything you suggest to do or watch out for with the jk ?
Good move with the spacers. I don't foresee any issues.
12-12-2014 09:32 PM
Swampdigger The jku is now setup to carry a plow. I put on sumo spring bump stops and coil spacers. I plowed 14 years with a tj. Anything you suggest to do or watch out for with the jk ?
12-12-2014 08:02 PM
Swampdigger Thanks. I'll try that and lock things down.
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