Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum > 2011 Rubicon looking for lifts and need some advice.

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: 2011 Rubicon looking for lifts and need some advice. Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
10-08-2010 06:16 AM
thaduke2003 I don't run the center cap on mine Also, Jegs.com has the cheapest price around on the Soft 8's- Mark W.
10-07-2010 08:36 PM
TjTheo But watch out you have to buy the center cap seperatly with the crager 8s. If you want the center cap that is.
I didnt get them figured they'd look too pretty for a jeep .
10-07-2010 08:33 PM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by TjTheo View Post
Get crager 8s instead of those unique rims, they look exactly the same and cost a whole lot less, and they're still steel.
Im not sure about backspacing on jks.
totally right. Just looked up the cragers. that's a no brainer.
10-07-2010 08:32 PM
TjTheo Get crager 8s instead of those unique rims, they look exactly the same and cost a whole lot less, and they're still steel.
Im not sure about backspacing on jks.
10-07-2010 08:21 PM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003 View Post
Rock Krawler. They're up here by Albany, NY- Mark W.
Ah. gotcha. That kind of trip would be a couple day excursion for me. I don't think I can swing that anytime soon with my pregnant wife.
10-07-2010 08:17 PM
thaduke2003 Wheel linky no worky!

I'm running those same tires on 15X8 (4" BS) Cragar Soft 8's. Took a bit of grinding on the front calipers, but no major surgery. Love the look Mark W.
10-07-2010 08:13 PM
thedaego think I could get some input on my wheel and tire choice?
i'm looking at Unique 297 15X8 5-5 -12B rims and BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM2 (35X12.50R15C2 113Q W) tires.

Thoughts?

Would these rims work in regard to backspacing? I figured I'd just go with new steel 15" rims instead of wheel spacers.
10-07-2010 08:10 PM
thaduke2003 Rock Krawler. They're up here by Albany, NY- Mark W.
10-07-2010 08:08 PM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003 View Post
Well, MD is MAYBE a 5-6 hour drive to where they are. The discount may well pay for the trip, AND you might talk Jeremy into welding the rear track bar bracket in for you, if you're nice (or at least he'll show you what to have your shop do)- Mark W.
Wait, what shop are we talking about?
10-07-2010 08:05 PM
thaduke2003 Well, MD is MAYBE a 5-6 hour drive to where they are. The discount may well pay for the trip, AND you might talk Jeremy into welding the rear track bar bracket in for you, if you're nice (or at least he'll show you what to have your shop do)- Mark W.
10-07-2010 08:31 AM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003 View Post
Any shop should be able to weld that bracket for $10-20. It's a simple job- before you take it to be welded, take a grinder and grind around the edges where it'll be welded to remove the powdercoat. There's one bolt that gets removed when you weld it, as that's only for bolted-in applications. Don't let one LITTLE thing like a 5-minute weld job hold you back from a SICK kit! Also, go with the Bilstein 5100's- don't go cheap on shocks, or you WILL regret it Mark W.
I think you're right. I'm going to go with the 2.5 Max Travel System from Rock Krawler: Rock Krawler Catalog along with the Bilstein 5100 shocks.

Anyone have suggestions on where to buy it from? I've been looking at Jeep Parts, Jeep Accessories, & Jeep Tops (4 wheel Drive Hardware) and their prices seem to be msrp. Any vendors around here that give discounts for forum members?
10-06-2010 07:37 PM
thaduke2003 Any shop should be able to weld that bracket for $10-20. It's a simple job- before you take it to be welded, take a grinder and grind around the edges where it'll be welded to remove the powdercoat. There's one bolt that gets removed when you weld it, as that's only for bolted-in applications. Don't let one LITTLE thing like a 5-minute weld job hold you back from a SICK kit! Also, go with the Bilstein 5100's- don't go cheap on shocks, or you WILL regret it Mark W.
10-06-2010 03:22 PM
AOR
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedaego View Post
awesome! Thanks Allen!
Welcome. Let me know if I can help further.

Allen
10-06-2010 03:13 PM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
Check out page 8 on the doc.

Allen
awesome! Thanks Allen!
10-06-2010 01:25 PM
AOR Check out page 8 on the doc.

Allen
10-06-2010 01:04 PM
AOR It is highly recommended and can be done after the install. I would not skip this part. You can get any local shop to weld that up for the minimum charge. I definitely wouldn't let that stop you from doing a lift.

Let me dig out the Word doc, upload it to my server, and post a link. It's a good size file (9+ MB).

Allen

Link>>> JK Mid Arm System Directions
10-06-2010 12:46 PM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
I am a Rock Krawler dealer and all of the "Mid Arm Systems" are bolt on until you go to the "Plus" systems. No welding required (unless you want the adjustable poly bump stops).

You can get the 2.5" Max Travel in Aluminum or Steel. As far as the ride quality goes, a long arm kit will provide the best street ride. If you want to go with the 35" tires, do the 4.88s. With the 3.8L you will need the gearing to retain your existing power. I would even go to 5.13s with the 35s (possibility of 37s later ). When you read that 4.10s are ok, they are just that, okay/livable! Definitely where you don't want to be if the pocket can handle the extra $$$. Since you have a manual, it's more forgiving.

Allen
If I went with the Rock Krawler system I would probably go with the JK 2.5 MAX TRAVEL SYSTEM.

This comes with the rear track bar relocation bracket. All the install writeups that I have seen weld this bracket. such as this writeup here:
RK 2.5 Max Travel Pro Mid Arm Kit - JkOwners.com - The Community for Jeep JK 4x4 Owners

here is another quote from a Rock Krawler rep on the 3.5 kit:
JkOwners.com - The Community for Jeep JK 4x4 Owners - View Single Post - Rock Krawler 3.5 midarm
Quote:
The only recommended welding is of the rear track bar bracket where it attaches to the axle! This can be completed following the installation as long as it is done before serious off-roading occurs! This is to ensure there is no chance of the OEM rear track bar bracket tearing off the axle like has been done with alot of other systems.
Can you confirm this isn't necessary or maybe even send a link to the installation instructions for this kit? Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it.
10-06-2010 12:04 PM
AOR On the left coast, gears will run you $600+ depending on manufacture and labor is $300/axle unless you are installing an ARB or other locker needing drilling and tapping.

Allen

Have fun with it and built it wisely.
10-06-2010 11:53 AM
ZOMB1E Gears are definitely something you want done right. The parts aren't too expensive You'll need a ring a pinion for the front and back (the rubicon has a stock Dana 44 in the front and back), new carriers and bearings. The cost of labor is going to depend on where you go. Expect $600-1200.

I think the 4.10s will get you by for a while anyways. I had 3.21s on mine so an upgrade was required. I would get the lift and tires and see for yourself how it drives to determine if you want more low end or not. Good luck with your decision!

Btw my jeep is my daily driver and I try to get on the trails once a month if I'm lucky
10-06-2010 11:46 AM
AOR I am a Rock Krawler dealer and all of the "Mid Arm Systems" are bolt on until you go to the "Plus" systems. No welding required (unless you want the adjustable poly bump stops).

You can get the 2.5" Max Travel in Aluminum or Steel. As far as the ride quality goes, a long arm kit will provide the best street ride. If you want to go with the 35" tires, do the 4.88s. With the 3.8L you will need the gearing to retain your existing power. I would even go to 5.13s with the 35s (possibility of 37s later ). When you read that 4.10s are ok, they are just that, okay/livable! Definitely where you don't want to be if the pocket can handle the extra $$$. Since you have a manual, it's more forgiving.

Allen
10-06-2010 11:39 AM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOMB1E View Post
I'm running a BDS 3" lift with 315/70/16 Mickey Thompson Baja tires and 4.88 gears.

The BDS lift has a lifetime warranty on I believe everything but the shocks.

I would also strongly recommend 4.88 gears or you might feel like you're driving a minivan pulling a camper.
nice looking jeep. That's almost exactly what I'm going for. The whole re-gearing portion scares me though. If that's the route I need to take if I decide to go with bigger tires, it might be enough to deter me from upgrading at all.

I can't do the labor on the gears myself. i know that for sure. I'm a computer programmer that is mechanically inclined enough to just get myself into trouble. I'm sure I'd destroy a set of gears and that's a risk I can't take on my daily driver.
10-06-2010 11:23 AM
ZOMB1E I'm running a BDS 3" lift with 315/70/16 Mickey Thompson Baja tires and 4.88 gears.

The BDS lift has a lifetime warranty on I believe everything but the shocks.

I would also strongly recommend 4.88 gears or you might feel like you're driving a minivan pulling a camper.
10-06-2010 10:32 AM
thedaego
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaduke2003 View Post
Ok. STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM FULL TRACTION! Their bushings are absolute garbage, their tech support is horrendous, and the only thing they have going is they're (relatively cheap). Run a web search on Full Traction, JK, and you'll get the picture. For every positive story, there are 4-5 negative ones- NOT GOOD!

Teraflex is ok, but since you mentioned RC, I'm guessing you're here in the Northeast. I can tell you from personal experience that Teraflex's bushings do NOT last vs. salt/sand on the roads. Their grease fittings also are VERY good at snapping off in the cold. Ask me how I know this Their customer support and quality are good, but the aforementioned issues turned me over to...:

Rock Krawler! No grease fittings (they use 3-in-1 oil and TIGHT metal bushings instead of grease/grease fittings at the axle end, and high-quality rubber at the frame end- had them on for over a year, and minus some surface rust where I wanged the arms on rocks, they're good-as-new!), no major headaches, and they're great guys. If you're not too far (I'm between Albany and NYC), I'd be totally cool with taking you for a ride. PM me and I'll tell you more naughty details (like cash-and-carry discounts- ooh! ) Great company, and they won't see you stuff you don't need, which really earns them a gold star in my book (I'm a pro at spending too much! ) Mark W.

Edit:
By the way, if you plan on hitting anything beyond blues (blacks) at RC, you'll really want to re-gear to 4.56's at least, or 4.88's. Still 100% streetable (I run 4.88's and 35" KM2's, and get 17.3 MPG highway average, ~15.6 around town), and much better pick-up with the bigger tires. What 35's were you thinking of running? Mark W.
I'm in the Maryland area so I think a test ride might be out of the question. Thanks for the offer though!

I Don't have any ideas for the tires yet. i'm still working on my lift research. Should one beget the other? For example, should my choice of tire influence a particular brand or type of lift system?

Again, I really like the Rock Krawler stuff and that lifetime warranty is super bonus, but the welding portion of the install is the only drawback.
10-06-2010 10:27 AM
thedaego I really dig the Rock Krawler kits but my only problem is the welding for the rear relocation bracket. I don't have access to a welder and don't know the first thing about it myself. Anyone know a decent place to get that portion done in the Maryland area? Otherwise I'll likely go with a terflex kit.
10-05-2010 08:03 PM
ncossey Old man emu is by far the best out of all the kits you listed, they have been lifting land rovers and jeeps for over a decade
10-05-2010 07:46 PM
KBR97 You would be good with any of the Teraflex kits, The OME kits are good also.
Rock Krawler, and BDS also have great stuff and lifetime warranties.


The kit that I like is from Rock Krawler...the 2.5 Max Travel Pro Mid Arm System (Aluminum).

Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc.

10-05-2010 07:17 PM
thaduke2003 Ok. STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM FULL TRACTION! Their bushings are absolute garbage, their tech support is horrendous, and the only thing they have going is they're (relatively cheap). Run a web search on Full Traction, JK, and you'll get the picture. For every positive story, there are 4-5 negative ones- NOT GOOD!

Teraflex is ok, but since you mentioned RC, I'm guessing you're here in the Northeast. I can tell you from personal experience that Teraflex's bushings do NOT last vs. salt/sand on the roads. Their grease fittings also are VERY good at snapping off in the cold. Ask me how I know this Their customer support and quality are good, but the aforementioned issues turned me over to...:

Rock Krawler! No grease fittings (they use 3-in-1 oil and TIGHT metal bushings instead of grease/grease fittings at the axle end, and high-quality rubber at the frame end- had them on for over a year, and minus some surface rust where I wanged the arms on rocks, they're good-as-new!), no major headaches, and they're great guys. If you're not too far (I'm between Albany and NYC), I'd be totally cool with taking you for a ride. PM me and I'll tell you more naughty details (like cash-and-carry discounts- ooh! ) Great company, and they won't see you stuff you don't need, which really earns them a gold star in my book (I'm a pro at spending too much! ) Mark W.

Edit:
By the way, if you plan on hitting anything beyond blues (blacks) at RC, you'll really want to re-gear to 4.56's at least, or 4.88's. Still 100% streetable (I run 4.88's and 35" KM2's, and get 17.3 MPG highway average, ~15.6 around town), and much better pick-up with the bigger tires. What 35's were you thinking of running? Mark W.
10-05-2010 03:08 PM
phantomofrussia even though I can not really give you input about what you are trying to do with your rubicon(I am a noob with Vehicles in general).

Nice Jeep!! and that is the most detailed and easiest to follow outline of what you are going to do I have seen so far on this forum. Props to you
10-05-2010 03:03 PM
daggo66
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedaego View Post
Thanks. I've read that the stock rubicon gears with a 6 speed is not bad with 35" tires. True or false?

nvm. just found this thread:
Gears and Tire size with Auto and 6 Speed - JeepForum.com

Looks like my stock rubi with the 6 speed should be just fine with 35s without having to regear.
Since you have the MT you should be good, YMMV.
10-05-2010 03:02 PM
daggo66
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
Rubicons come stock with 4.10's

I totally overlooked the sticker on the hood.
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:33 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC