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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-20-2010 03:55 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Bay TJ View Post
Came right out with the last whack.
That's unusual, it normally comes out on the 3rd to last whack.
11-20-2010 01:39 PM
Green Bay TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Remove the antiswaybar entirely (takes five minutes) and hold the end of it in a vise so it can't move or flex during the next step. Then use a 2 lb. sledge hammer to whack the SIDE of the antiswaybar hard next to where the stud passes through it. That will pop the stud out. No, do not pound on the stud itself which will only make it worse by making it a tighter fit in the antiswaybar itself as the stud metal mushrooms out from the impact.
Jerry . . . Awesome. really works. Did not have a vise so I supported the end on a stack of wood. Needed about 20 whacks with the hammer (neighbors must have loved this at 9 PM). Came right out with the last whack.

[img=http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4449/swaybarlnk2.th.jpg]
[img=http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/9886/swaybarlink4.th.jpg]
11-14-2010 07:26 PM
RubiCobra One of the first things I did when my Jeep was stock-ish was remove the rear sway bar. It was a little sloppy, but ok for me. After a 5.5 inch lift it was BAD, so I put it back in. Now I have a Currie anti rock in front and GenRight sway bar (same idea) in the rear. That's the way to go.

@OP: Try disconnecting the rear bar and driving it around for a bit, if it's tolerable for you, leave it off. Definitely get discos for the front too.
11-14-2010 07:14 PM
ej_fireman Nice mod will do this soon
11-14-2010 05:55 PM
Green Bay TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Remove the antiswaybar entirely (takes five minutes) and hold the end of it in a vise so it can't move or flex during the next step. Then use a 2 lb. sledge hammer to whack the SIDE of the antiswaybar hard next to where the stud passes through it. That will pop the stud out. No, do not pound on the stud itself which will only make it worse by making it a tighter fit in the antiswaybar itself as the stud metal mushrooms out from the impact.
Thanks Jerry. That's where I was heading. Had the front bolts out of the bushing mounts but can't get a socket on the rear - they are blocked by the grill. I may be able to get them out with a 15 mm combo wrench. Also figured I'd sand off the rust, prime and paint the bar and replace the bushings while i was at it.
11-14-2010 04:56 PM
ohsixteejay
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I definitely would not run on the street with the antiswaybars disconnected. I drove back through my local mountains from offroading once with a broken rear antiswaybar link which disables the rear antiswaybar and the added body roll was significant enough that even the three Boy Scouts I had in my Jeep at the time noticed the difference. Having the front antswaybar disconnected too would make it even worse. And leave the rear antiswaybar connected even while offroading. It keeps things under control to reduce the likelihood of a roll or tipover while not reducing the rear axle's usable flex.

my 06 SE came from the factory without a rear sway bar. just found this out today while putting on my 2.5" lift.
11-14-2010 04:55 PM
Jerry Bransford Remove the antiswaybar entirely (takes five minutes) and hold the end of it in a vise so it can't move or flex during the next step. Then use a 2 lb. sledge hammer to whack the SIDE of the antiswaybar hard next to where the stud passes through it. That will pop the stud out. No, do not pound on the stud itself which will only make it worse by making it a tighter fit in the antiswaybar itself as the stud metal mushrooms out from the impact.
11-14-2010 04:55 PM
csamn2007 I used a balljoint puller to remove mine.
11-14-2010 04:52 PM
Green Bay TJ What is the trick for getting the upper end of the link off the swaybar? Got the nut off the end but the link won't budge. Broke a link a couple wekends back and will be installing a RE Gen II disco once i get the OEM links off Red Wrangler - lower link attaches to the axle with a T55 bolt and I believe a metric nut somewhere in the range of 16-18 mm (don't recall exact nut size).
10-30-2010 10:13 PM
monkeee2002
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
call me crazy but I enjoy the big truck ride and sloppyness in the body roll never on one of my trucks have i used sway bars
OK, done.

I ran without the front left swaybar link for a month, and it drove me nuts. Not good on-road manners.
10-30-2010 07:10 PM
Red Wrangler what size are the torx and the wrench i use to remove the link on the sway bar?
10-29-2010 11:04 PM
Cons_Table If you are interested in building your own discos, do not run the hitch pin clips...they are not strong enough and will just try to pull through and are a PITA to get off. I learned this through experience. Instead use something like this, they are much stronger and will not bend. Ive used a hitch pin and these clips for about 6 months and they hold up fine, and are quick.

10-29-2010 07:51 PM
doughenry I know alot of guys tell me I should change out my Currie set up for disco"s and I always tell them the currie is set up is made for all offroading I love it has great flex in my opinion. Hard to teach new tricks to some of the old dogs I run with.
10-29-2010 06:17 PM
yjkid95 Hotdog. To bad they don't make it for a yj
10-29-2010 06:14 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by yjkid95 View Post
So Jerry I just watched the video to me it sounded like the antirock swaybars help keep an equal amount of weight on each wheel while not compromising any suspension travel making it more stable and give it more traction on and offroad.
That pretty much covers it.
10-29-2010 06:02 PM
yjkid95 So Jerry I just watched the video to me it sounded like the antirock swaybars help keep an equal amount of weight on each wheel while not compromising any suspension travel making it more stable and give it more traction on and offroad. Is that basically it. And that it does this through the basic principle of leverage? If I'm wrong you can just call me a dumba$$ if not then I guess im just a gena$$
10-29-2010 05:26 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hostile JEEP T.J View Post
Jerry, exactly was is the currie antirock and what does it do? I've seen them on some rigs and in my JP mag but never really understood them and how they work or install!!
Basically the Antirock helps balance the front and rear suspensions so they work better together than fighting each other as they do with the ultra-stiff OE antiswaybar or no antiswaybar at all (or disconnected. It can dramatically improve how much traction the tires can generate by keeping downforce on both tires on the axle which completely disconnecting the antiswaybar removes. It also helps keep the body under better control too which can make the difference in tipping or rolling on extremely off-camber or steep terrain.

John Currie himself explains it best on a video on how it works at CurrieTV : Featured CurrieTV // on the PowerTV Network but you'll kinda have to scroll through their available videos to find the one on their Antirock. I can't figure out how to give the URL to the specific video but it should only take a few seconds to find it by scrolling through the list.

A shorter but still very good description of what it does is at http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1188
10-29-2010 04:32 PM
Hostile JEEP T.J
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Hostile Jeep TJ, I never bothered making a home made disco system since it only took me two minutes to remove the lower nuts that held my links on which disconnects the antiswaybar. I then used nylon zip ties to hold the antiswaybar up and out of the way afterwards. Later, I added quick discos from Tera but it wasn't long afterwards that I installed the Currie Antirock that eliminates the need to disconnect anything.
Jerry, exactly was is the currie antirock and what does it do? I've seen them on some rigs and in my JP mag but never really understood them and how they work or install!!
10-29-2010 02:37 PM
village idiot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherpa View Post
deleting the rear swaybar is always one of the first mods I make to my TJs.
Anti swaybar keeps you rightside up better, I think if you get off camber you need at least the rear hooked up. I have factory rear and Currie front and everything still flexes to its max when it needs to.
10-29-2010 02:36 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherpa View Post
I agree that I wouldn't intentionally drive on the street without the front swaybar being connected. The rear bar, however, can be deleted if you desire. After all, many 4x4 vehicles and even some Jeeps came factory-equipped without a rear swaybar... behaves, then go ahead and permanently remove it. If not, reconnect it.
Bad advice for the Wrangler TJ that has a coil spring suspension at all four corners. Vehicle that do ok without antiswaybar, like in the rear, are those with leaf spring suspensions that are highly stable in all directions other than up and down. Coil springs are unstable in all directions. It is best to leave the TJ's rear antiswaybar connected no matter what the conditions are. Front too if you have the right kind of antiswaybar for the conditions you are wheeling or driving in.

For those who are non-believers, notice that John Currie had both his front AND rear antiswaybars fully connected when he won the US National ARCA rock crawling championships. I took the below photos when I noticed even his championship level rock crawling TJ was running front and rear antiswaybars throughout the competition.
10-29-2010 02:27 PM
Sherpa
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I definitely would not run on the street with the antiswaybars disconnected.
I agree that I wouldn't intentionally drive on the street without the front swaybar being connected. The rear bar, however, can be deleted if you desire. After all, many 4x4 vehicles and even some Jeeps came factory-equipped without a rear swaybar... which is why deleting the rear swaybar is always one of the first mods I make to my TJs.

To the OP: you can temporarily disconnect the rear bar by following suggestings in this thread. If you are okay with how it behaves, then go ahead and permanently remove it. If not, reconnect it.
10-29-2010 02:16 PM
aelwero
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Integrating the antiswaybar into the control arms? Nope, they are not integrated and I don't see any way that combination could be made to work. Especially since an antiswaybar connects the right side of the axle to its left side through the frame or body and control arms are not installed in such a way that could happen.
I meant in general

Is it done on ANY type of vehicle? If I get a "kit" for the DJ, I'll still have to fab it to make it fit... makes more sense to get bare materials and fab all of it (especially since I want to get actual axles intead of the stubby narrow track D44 it has now... it flops if I sneeze) I can think of several ways to incorporate a sway bar into the control arms, but since I've never heard of it, it makes me wonder why... Surely someone has thought of it and attempted it before and found a good reason not to do it...

or have they???
10-29-2010 02:08 PM
aelwero Clevis pins in your suspension???

Taking the nut off the bolt that's already there, and drilling a hole through the end of the bolt for the cotter pin would be

A) cheaper
B) WAY more dependable... (the bolt that's there was meant to be the permanent part after all)

Replacing your bolt with a clevis pin full of holes is not a good idea if you ask me... and the guy shows right there on the webpage that the clevis pins aren't up to the job... I'm all about macgyvering stuff but clevis pins are not a super great idea...
10-29-2010 02:03 PM
TJeepman With proper tools and some knowhow, a sway bar link can be changed in 15 minutes, with the Jeep on the ground. Disconnecting one, at the bottom, will take a lot less than that for sure.
10-29-2010 01:52 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by aelwero View Post
While we're on the sway bar subject and Jerry's here, why are the sway bars not incorporated into the control arms? Or are they?

One of these days I'm going to wind up having some of that "spare" time and money stuff I keep hearing about and am going to off-roadify my DJ, and the concept of "swayed control arms" has crossed my mind many times.
Integrating the antiswaybar into the control arms? Nope, they are not integrated and I don't see any way that combination could be made to work. Especially since an antiswaybar connects the right side of the axle to its left side through the frame or body and control arms are not installed in such a way that could happen.
10-29-2010 01:48 PM
4Jeepn As Jerry said, remove the nut flip the bar up and secure with zip ties. Takes just a few minutes.
10-29-2010 01:47 PM
snobrder540 i checked that out if i hadn't just ordered a set of discos i would deff give this mod a try. i used cotter pins to make a quick release for my soft top.
10-29-2010 01:40 PM
aelwero While we're on the sway bar subject and Jerry's here, why are the sway bars not incorporated into the control arms? Or are they?

One of these days I'm going to wind up having some of that "spare" time and money stuff I keep hearing about and am going to off-roadify my DJ, and the concept of "swayed control arms" has crossed my mind many times.
10-29-2010 01:28 PM
Jerry Bransford Hostile Jeep TJ, I never bothered making a home made disco system since it only took me two minutes to remove the lower nuts that held my links on which disconnects the antiswaybar. I then used nylon zip ties to hold the antiswaybar up and out of the way afterwards. Later, I added quick discos from Tera but it wasn't long afterwards that I installed the Currie Antirock that eliminates the need to disconnect anything.
10-29-2010 01:25 PM
Hostile JEEP T.J
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
I definitely would not run on the street with the antiswaybars disconnected. I drove back through my local mountains from offroading once with a broken rear antiswaybar link which disables the rear antiswaybar and the added body roll was significant enough that even the three Boy Scouts I had in my Jeep at the time noticed the difference. Having the front antswaybar disconnected too would make it even worse. And leave the rear antiswaybar connected even while offroading. It keeps things under control to reduce the likelihood of a roll or tipover while not reducing the rear axle's usable flex.
Hey Jerry do you know if I can get those parts to make my own disconnects at any hardware store? Thanks in advance
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