|05-20-2013 04:08 PM|
Bumpstops ordered from performance, will trim down to whatever size I need.
I just want to do this properly and one time so i can move onto other things going on.
|05-20-2013 03:10 PM|
|Huelsmma||And thanks...this just reiterates my thinking that Im going to have to go over every bolt to see if he torqued them properly.|
|05-20-2013 02:44 PM|
Thanks. I dont have access to a computer until I get home each day at 8pm so 99% of my posts are via phone. My company blocks every website but 2.
I'll prob bother my buddy to use his driveway to do this even if hes not home
|05-20-2013 02:21 PM|
|05-20-2013 01:42 PM|
Ok...so Im beating my head against a desk right now. Im so overwhelmed with things to do & all this new jeep information.
OME/bilstein lift, 1.25 bl, 1" mml went on this weekend fine. Guy who installed it insists I wont need extended bumpstops for it but I was with him the entire time learning as he did things. But he never put it at full bump to check this. I dont want to question this guy because he knows his jeeps and works at a jeep dealership as mechanic. But why is he telling me this? After all my reading I know that cant be the case.
Also if it isnt...well then i guess I need to figure out how to remove my new coils and properly get it to fullbump. Remember...Ive never had or messed with a vehicle with coils. This is all new to me. Ive confused myself btwn 2 forums as to where Ive read what. I just want to get this taken care of.
To top it off Im not allowed per my condo rules to use jacks or stands or anything of that nature. If this was a quick deal maybe I can get it done but after reading below thread, this is over my head.
Using the search feature from my phone on the forum doesnt work worth a darn.
But Im going to reread this...
|05-06-2013 10:05 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||start w/ 2 inches an cut them down as low as 1.5, basically. as mentioned, check everything else first. If you can't alter your first instance of interference, that will be the point that dictates your bumpstop requirement, whether it be your shocks, fender interference, steering/track bar interference, or coil bind etc. Cycle, measure, cut bumpstops. Tada!|
|05-06-2013 09:59 PM|
I'll read through the jk post you linked.
I just dont want to be sitting here with all the parts minus the bumpstops knowing that i only have 2 days this month that help is available to install the lift. Besides I already sold the wheels/tires currently on my jeep and he needs them by memorial day.
|05-06-2013 09:40 PM|
The difference numbers are your hypothetical minimum bumpstop extension requirements. You may actually need more....thats why you do the full cycle tests, full bump, full flex, full droop, etc.
So...how do you come up with 1" front and 2" rear from those numbers?
You can always buy/make/fabricate/build 3"+ bumpstop extensions, then cut them down to whatever size you end up needing, after thoroughly testing the suspension. I like Performance Accessories body lift pucks because they are cheap and easy.
|05-06-2013 09:18 PM|
So still awaiting everything to show up but trying to get everything here for the install.
I'm going with Bilstein5100 shocks, OME 2.5 HD coils, 1.25" JKS body lift & 1' MML, stock trackbar for now just will relocate it.
If stock front compressed is 13.5 (Bilsteins are 24/14.88) = 1.38" difference
If stock rear compressed is 12.5 (Bilsteins are 22.44/13.98) = 1.48" difference
Then I go with 1" bumpstops (front) & 2" bumpstops (rear)??
I cant trust these shops around me, I found out half recommend me to get something wroong or bad advice.
Thanks, just want to order these bumpstops as Ive ordered everything else already.
Unlimited...please dont bash me
|11-09-2012 03:09 AM|
Good thread. Can't think of a better way to get this in my subscribed folder. I will have to do this soon. I am in the middle of replacing upper control arm's. Here is a link to my project. Lots of pictures.
broke a few things at the cliffs today! - QCJEEPERS 4X4 CLUB
|04-06-2012 10:04 PM|
|KrzyMoke||This should be a Sticky|
|03-15-2012 09:38 PM|
|02Prove||Unlimited always makes me feel like a dumb dumb when he starts talking bump stops and suspension travel...lol|
|03-15-2012 09:30 PM|
|jp2611||scribed for when i get disco's|
|07-08-2011 05:38 PM|
You major in mathematics or something?
bumpstops dont limit your downtravel though.
|07-08-2011 05:18 PM|
|07-08-2011 04:59 PM|
Not if you drive gentle like I do all of the time... never!
I just meant I want to get the most flex out of my rig (uptravel) as possible without damaging anything. I know I use my bumps alot
|07-08-2011 04:51 PM|
|07-08-2011 03:13 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||I'm sure someone has it on the Wx3(world wide web) lol. honestly I am not gona worry about it til I know if I need more flex and how it all works etc. I just wanted to personally understand it better.|
|07-08-2011 03:04 PM|
|07-08-2011 02:15 PM|
Yes, I do and understood most of that before hand to a degree but you made it slightly more clear
and yes indy, but that clearance is only useable if you arent hitting stuff or binding coils or blowing shocks.
Unlimited, I am running the 3 inch zone lift with 33s. so I was hitting into tub, aka the #4, because of tires too large for lift. I had .75 spacers up front, which helped some. mostly for leveling. I added the BL so I dont hit my fenders or anything anymore. But I believe I will still have some extra useable room. So I am trying to figure how this all plays out. I have had no issues with my set up, I think it is better off left alone. also I believe that my zone lift didnt come with rear bump stop extensions but I may just be forgeting when I installed them.
can I look up zones shock compressed size online and compare?
|07-08-2011 02:08 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||I am gona finish readed through, but what I meant was, my tires hit before, but with my BL I have more room for uptravel. I was contemplating how much I can reduce my bump stops to take advantage of that additional room. not that the springs/shocks moved.|
|07-08-2011 11:59 AM|
This is a good write up.
Also, clearance can be had from other things such as body modifications, but beware once you cut once there is no going back! I've become a skilled cutter since I've got this Jeep!
|07-08-2011 11:42 AM|
the only way a BL effects bumpstop extension is if you're running too large a tire on too low a lift. that would give you shorter compressed length shocks, but then #4 becomes the overriding requirement for bumpstop extension - you don't want to damage the tires/tub, so you need to add more bumpstop extension in than is required for #1-3. Only then will a BL constitute a reduction in bumpstop extension length.
an example of that can be seen in the ill-educated "Low Center of Gravity" crowd. Some think you can run 37s on 2.5" of lift if you just push the bumpstops way out....which kills all your uptravel. problem is you need uptravel, and running less uptravel than stock (around 4") is plain stupid.
thats why you see my posts harping on whats required to actually gain uptravel with a 2.5" lift when you start mixing and matching aftermarket parts, especially track bars and diff covers. In front you end up hitting the track bar into the diff cover or the tie-rod, and in the rear you end up hitting the diff cover into the gas tank or causing rear track bar binding issues.
thats also why most educated folks recommend 4" of lift for 33s. Most smart 4" lift companies use 15.5" compressed length front shocks and ~14.5" compressed length rear shocks, with 9-10" of total travel. That means you need 2" of front bumpstop extension and 2.5" of rear bumpstop extension.
Remember I said above thats the minimum you need to run 33's without a BL?
Well thats why 4" of lift and 33's is the most common recommendation - you gain 2" of uptravel, a good amount of downtravel and plenty of room for 33s.
If you don't have the right bumpstop extensions you end up blowing up the shocks, or ripping the shock mounts off the axle. If you're not bashing something else together first. YJ's that don't run front bumpstop extensions actually push the front axle housing into the oil pan. On TJ's, shock mount damage is most common in the rear, the fronts are beefy enough you usually only see blown shocks or broken bar pins. So next time you see a post where somebody says their shocks are blown/leaking, the bar pins are toasted or the bushings are shot, or they ripped the shock mount off the axle - you know right away the bumpstops are most likely not set right.
Similarly, based on criteria #2 (coil bind), next time somebody says they want to put a 1.75-2" spacer on the front of their Jeep because after they added a 120lb bumper and 80lb winch, their soft RC springs are sagging too much....remember the stock springs just barely fit with a 2" BB...so what do you think will happen at full compression when a spring thats 3-4" longer than stock is compressed? Yup, major coil bind and spring damage. Thats why smart companies that sell BB's, give you a bumpstop extension the same length as the spacer lift height - to prevent coil damage. This is most critical in the rear since the spring compression space is quite short already.
|07-08-2011 10:20 AM|
Yes, thanks that was a great outline! So basically, the body lift doesnt really affect BS extension because there are other things that it is there to protect. If I lessen all of those, I can lessed extension.
|07-08-2011 09:56 AM|
In front: 13.5" compressed length shocks fit with no bumpstop extension
In Rear: 12.25" compressed length shocks fit with no bumpstop extension
Regardless of lift height - Subtract the compressed length of the new shocks you're trying to fit and you've got a good starting point for the required bumpstop extension.
Example: 15.5" compressed length shock (like OME N66L) = 15.5-13.5 = 2" front bumpstop requirement.
The body lift benefit in regard to bumpstop extension length is that you can run less bumpstop for TIRE SIZE. You still need the same bumpstop extension based on shocks.
Bumpstop extensions are required for four main reasons:
1. Prevent major suspension interferences - like axle housing hitting the oil pan, or track bar hitting a diff cover.
2. Preventing coil bind - prevents damage to springs.
3. Prevent shock damage - prevents shocks from bottoming out.
4. Prevent tire vs steel tub rubbing - prevents damage to the body and tire damage.
Tires are the last on the list because thats the least important job.
If you add a 1" BL, you can fit 1" larger tires, provided #1-3 are already satisfied.
You have 2.5" of lift and have 14.5" compressed length shocks in front using the stock track bar, with 13.5" compressed length shocks in the rear using a track bar relocation bracket. Notice I've said nothing about tire size.
Now, following the above #1-4 list:
1. You don't need any bumpstops in front to clear the stock track bar, but in the rear you need 1.25"-1.5" bumpstop extension to prevent the relocation bracket from hitting the underside of the tub.
2. The front springs are under 20" in extended length, which means they'll fit in the stock spring towers. You'll need some bumpstop extension in the rear since the springs are longer, and the 1.25"-1.5" from #1 should suffice well.
3. The front 14.5" compressed length shocks require at least 1" of front bumpstop extension. The rear 13.5" compressed length shocks require 1.25-1.5" of rear bumpstop extension, which fits well with #1 & #2.
4. Now you know you need 1" front, and 1.25-1.5" rear. You can run a max of 32" tires on this setup. If you add a 1" BL, you can run a max of 33" tires. If you add a 3" BL, you can run a max of 35" tires.
|07-07-2011 06:48 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Hey guys, I added a BL now, and was wondering if you could help me determine if I can reduce or remove my bump stop extensions. I read through this and several other threads, but I just need a little more info about the shock length and all that. I was honestly a bit confused.|
|03-06-2011 12:39 PM|
|03-03-2011 06:45 PM|
here's some visual adds to help the above descriptions
Most think to check the axle under flex, and think if everything is ok there it must work...but this simply isn't the case. Flex is good for testing tire clearance, but you also need to check full bump with the springs removed.
Drivers side bumpstop stuffed, shocks disconnected:
That is 1-3/8" bumpstop extension. The 1" is provided by a Performance Accessories body lift puck ("Big Block"), which costs about $2 directly from their website.
Flexed, with the passenger side drooped:
You can see the track bar clears most of the diff cover well.Not even close to the "SOLI" lettering, right?
Now lets look at full bump:
^if you can't get to this point, with the bumpstop cup fully resting on the spring pad, you need to adjust your bumpstops. Shock length is too long, or there is some suspension interferences occuring. These need to be eliminated to achieve uptravel.
Track bar lands in front of diff cover significantly more here:
This demonstrates the track bar clearing the tie-rod & modified diff cover with 1-3/8" bumpstop.
The modifications to the diff cover were:
Now lets install the tires and see what it looks like:
Full bump with the springs removed, and 33's:
Under full flex the tires fit in the fenderwell, but its close
^this is now the time to turn the steering wheel left to right, lock to lock, and look for other interferences, such as the tires rubbing the sway bar or frame, the brake lines getting caught..etc.
You should also drop the axle to full droop, and turn the steering lock to lock to check brake line length. If the brake lines become tight, you'll need extended brake lines. You can use a string to help determine the proper measurement.
|11-26-2010 06:42 AM|
|11-25-2010 10:24 PM|
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