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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-21-2011 07:18 AM
TheDoc So anymore update pics, how time changes things. I guess the boat is happy its still in one peice.
04-26-2011 07:44 PM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3ntal View Post
Sorry to thread dig but I'm doing a very similar build and would love to see an update of how everything came out. Thanks!
Thanks for checking in and giving a bump. I almost forgot I had the jeep on here.

Well its been a long cold winter. The Jeep is no longer a 383 yj

Instead It has a 5.3 fuel injected vortec from a 2004 Tahoe


This is the latest pic, I need to find some older ones from putting it together

Aside from that the engine mounts and tranny adapter are from Novack
I installed a Rough Country 2 1/2 " lift spring kit, and replaced the Dana rear with a ford 8.8 from a 98 Explorer
For the chassis paint I went with Eastwood paints
04-25-2011 06:44 PM
M3ntal Sorry to thread dig but I'm doing a very similar build and would love to see an update of how everything came out. Thanks!
11-30-2010 12:14 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Well I have a small update The new frame is stripped, ground/cut out the bad spots, & welded in repair pieces. In addition replaced the spring hangers and relocated the rear shackle mount to under the frame





Ignore the rattle can Rustolium primmer, its on her so my welds don't rust before I finish. When its all done gonna have it sandblasted before painting

I am thinking of going with Eastwood chassis paint. Anyone have any opinions between that POR-15 and bed liner coating?
11-10-2010 12:38 PM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by uplifted View Post
Trust me, hammering the firewall was a last minute ''oh chit it don't fit'' decision.. Was not alot though at all... I'll take a pic of it as well when I pull the tub Friday night.

LOL Been there done that, I'm Just messing with you
11-10-2010 07:42 AM
uplifted Trust me, hammering the firewall was a last minute ''oh chit it don't fit'' decision.. Was not alot though at all... I'll take a pic of it as well when I pull the tub Friday night.
11-10-2010 04:49 AM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by uplifted View Post
Yes and no...When i first did my swap my jeep was running 100% percent and had zero driveline vibrations... I wanted to keep everything exactly as it was so i set the sbc in at the exact angle and height... Being that i had a T-case drop, you guessed it the angle was enough to plant a standard HEI into the firewall.. I had to do the unthinkable and "massage" the firewall with a hammer to make room......... OK now fast foward a year later.. I finally got around to doing my SYE kit so i was now able to ditch the T-case drop so with the engine at a better angle there is now plenty of room for the dist... truth will be told when i swap my new tub in this friday.. I refuse to touch the firewall on my new tub so i'm praying it will fit... I'll snap a few pics for you when i mount it..

you hammered your firewall I have a pretty new 1" body lift that I was thinking of using. My reasoning for keeping the stock location is for weight distribution, BUT I don't know if it will amount to a hill of beans.

My wheel scales are up at my sisters by Middletown still from back when I raced Dirt. Maybe I will stop by and grab them and push the engine around just to see . I am not lifting the suspension that much I am going with a 2 1/2" lift kit. For the woods I run through I need a good balance between clearance and CG.

One of the other things I am thinking of is moving the rear spring hanger under the frame instead of the eye through the frame . it just seems like it will be stronger
11-09-2010 08:37 PM
uplifted
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC-Cruiser View Post
Last question, did you have to move the driveline forward so to the distributor clear the firewall?
Yes and no...When i first did my swap my jeep was running 100% percent and had zero driveline vibrations... I wanted to keep everything exactly as it was so i set the sbc in at the exact angle and height... Being that i had a T-case drop, you guessed it the angle was enough to plant a standard HEI into the firewall.. I had to do the unthinkable and "massage" the firewall with a hammer to make room......... OK now fast foward a year later.. I finally got around to doing my SYE kit so i was now able to ditch the T-case drop so with the engine at a better angle there is now plenty of room for the dist... truth will be told when i swap my new tub in this friday.. I refuse to touch the firewall on my new tub so i'm praying it will fit... I'll snap a few pics for you when i mount it..
11-08-2010 09:00 PM
T2000J good people as yjkid said-------->Converting the TJ / LJ Jeep Wranglers to GM Engines
11-08-2010 06:43 PM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by uplifted View Post
First...Holy chit that frame is rotted... .....J/K.. it's not that bad

OK now that i got that out of my system, to answer your question I went with Novak's adapter for my AX-15.. It simply bolts to the trans and then up to a stardard sbc bellhousing.. I'm also running their slave cylinder setup... All which i highly recommend..
LOL If you think that frame was bad you should see the one thats under my YJ now. It looks like a U channel with the open end on the bottom My front spring perch is now inside the frame Oops

So you like the Novak, I had been initially looking at it as a bang for the buck. Novak goes for $292 then its another $100 for the bell and 192 for the clutch retro BUT.... you are not limited to what clutch you can use. With the advanced adapters I can get it for $372 the toyota slave is $50 at Napa BUT you have to use a high profile clutch.

My other thought was to use a truck hyd bell with its slave on the novak but thats for the 168 tooth. That would actually be good for me because the 400 flywheel is stock at 168 ( right now I run a 153 with a balance plate) . The drawback to that I hear there is an interferance problem with the headers with the bigger bell.

Last question, did you have to move the driveline forward so to the distributor clear the firewall?
11-08-2010 12:20 PM
uplifted First...Holy chit that frame is rotted... .....J/K.. it's not that bad

OK now that i got that out of my system, to answer your question I went with Novak's adapter for my AX-15.. It simply bolts to the trans and then up to a stardard sbc bellhousing.. I'm also running their slave cylinder setup... All which i highly recommend..
11-08-2010 05:04 AM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by H2_recoveryteam View Post
Well for what its worth ive been reading the thread and feel that for what you want the rig for the straight six might be plenty. It just all depends how much money and time you want to invest right now.

Hey H2,

Thanks for the input, after researching it last night on the 4.2 and I think I am going to stick with the original plan. The engine only puts out like 117 hp with something around 180 ftlbs torque. With those numbers I might as well have stayed with the 4. If I did some performance mods on it, by the time I'm done it would be almost as expensive as doing the V8 conversion.

Well got some welding done on the frame yesterday

here is the cancer by the rear spring


I wound up cutting it out square and putting in a filler piece, both sides of this rail had rot so I cut it all out and filled


then I ground down the weld flush and welded up a gusset over the repair


Here is the other spot that was bad at the shock mount on the passenger side



Ground off the shock mount, cut out the rot, and again I filled in the area with 3/16 steel
No pics of that because my wife went out with the kids and took the camera
I will take pics today if I it is still daylight when I get home.

Question, with the rear spring mount I was thinking of installing under the chassis shackle mounts like on a CJ and abandon the through the frame hole. Seems like it would support better and have less stress on the frame.

The area around the hole in the frame was like Swiss Cheese
Any thoughts??
11-08-2010 01:50 AM
H2_recoveryteam
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC-Cruiser
OK, so now I have a dilemma

I started to strip the new chassis and get it ready for some minor welding repairs on the rear passenger side shackle area.

I started by pulling the engine and transmission out. While taking out the junk 4.0 ( the guy I bought it from said he snapped the crank) I just for kicks put a 3/4 wrench on the balancer bolt and turned the crank, I watched the flywheel turn , I the crank is NOT broken !!!!! I even jammed the flywheel to see if it was just hung up at the break, nope its solid.

NOW I only got the roller thinking that the engine was junk, now I am thinking it might just be a blown head gasket or something. As a result , do I still go ahead and spend the $3-4000 for the V8 swap or do I just rebuild the L6 put a set of headers on her and call it a day for maybe $1500-$1800??????

Grrrrrrrrr, it would have been easier it the engine was completely scrap metal

Any and all thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated
Well for what its worth ive been reading the thread and feel that for what you want the rig for the straight six might be plenty. It just all depends how much money and time you want to invest right now.
11-06-2010 06:47 PM
HVAC-Cruiser OK, so now I have a dilemma

I started to strip the new chassis and get it ready for some minor welding repairs on the rear passenger side shackle area.

I started by pulling the engine and transmission out. While taking out the junk 4.0 ( the guy I bought it from said he snapped the crank) I just for kicks put a 3/4 wrench on the balancer bolt and turned the crank, I watched the flywheel turn , I the crank is NOT broken !!!!! I even jammed the flywheel to see if it was just hung up at the break, nope its solid.

NOW I only got the roller thinking that the engine was junk, now I am thinking it might just be a blown head gasket or something. As a result , do I still go ahead and spend the $3-4000 for the V8 swap or do I just rebuild the L6 put a set of headers on her and call it a day for maybe $1500-$1800??????

Grrrrrrrrr, it would have been easier it the engine was completely scrap metal

Any and all thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated
11-02-2010 07:01 AM
HVAC-Cruiser Hey Uplifted,
Maybe I will keep the AX15 & 231, just upgrade the axles and see how it goes

OK, time for the NEWBIE questions
What adapter did you go with for the tranny? I am thinking of using the advance adapters bell housing as well as their engine mounts.

I really want to set up the drive line before I drop the tub back on. Do all my welding etc then paint the chassis etc.... Did you have to move the engine forward to clear the firewall? I am not running a GM distributor, mine is a mallory unilite with a small cap. I had read somewhere that there are firewall clearance problems if you leave it in the stock locations.
11-01-2010 09:20 PM
uplifted LOL... Yeah thats about what put the bug in me as well... Grew up building race cars so the only logical engine for my Jeep was a V8.. Probably the best thing i did as i'm enjoying the hell out of it now... I'm running an AX-15 and a 231 Tcase and so far so good....
11-01-2010 09:14 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Hi All,

I am only going to be running the 31's/32's??? off the Cherokee for now, can't remember what I put on her .

Hey Uplifted,
you just proved, "Birds of a feather flock together"
I ran a super pro Mercury Montego with a 9" then a pro 67 camaro with a 4 link and a D60 for years before switching over to Dirt small block modified, where I ran a winters and a Bert transmission, Ahh the gold ol days.

Lots of what I do is not beating on the jeep, its running through the woods checking posted signs retrieving deer during hunting season etc.

This all started cause I was tired of dropping 2 gears on Wurtsboro hill on Rt 17 . Its annoying and embarrassing when a Hyundai passes you like you are standing still

I started shopping for a frame and got into the While I am at it mode. Then I remembered the old commercial " I Could Have Had a V8 " and well, here I am.
11-01-2010 08:46 PM
uplifted
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC-Cruiser View Post
Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

Bill
I believe it's just the popularity of the 8.8" and the fact there a dime a dozen and the widths are almost dead on that make it such a common swap... Disc brakes and LSD's are icing on the cake...... The 9" is by far the superior axle though... I ran a prostreet Nova for 10 years with one..
11-01-2010 08:44 PM
yjkid95
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC-Cruiser View Post
The HP and torque #'s I gave you were on the Dyno with open headers, it was a boat, no mufflers or cat. Add that I will probably loose 30+ HP and the same for torque

AUTOMATIC Don't curse at me!!!! LOL JK . I was born and raised shifting learned to drive with a 3 on a tree 65 chevy c20 PU and that was all she wrote ...
All kidding aside we have 135 acres upstate on the side of a mountain. 100 of them are woods with logging roads that aside from my Jeeps I only travel with a D-8 dozzer Steep grades, logs across, mud bogs etc.. lots of real rough terrain. I use the house and property for my safety valve to stay sane.

I am lucky enough where I drive up on a whim and stay a week or 2 playing Grizzly Adams and am always there on weekends.

Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

I don't mind spending the money as long as its not going to grenade on me in the middle of nowhere


Bill
If your set on stick go for it man. I love stick but figured that sinces ill be wheeling it being on and off the clutch would be a pain in the butt. The thing is uplifted is running a 8.8 in the back and D30 up front. I got the pleasure to meet up with him and check it out. Hes got some 35's on it too and if i remember correctly said hes sitting on 350 hp. And hes doing just fine. But if your going to be running some bigger tires and really beating the snot out of it a ford 9 inch dana 60 or 14 bolt may be the way to go for you. Ecspecially if you plan on a bigger tire then 35's like lets sayyyyyy 37s. Chime in uplifted if it sounds like im talking out of my ass.
11-01-2010 08:42 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Hey Uplifted,

Just looked at you profile , NICE RIG!!!!!!!

Where abouts NY are you?
11-01-2010 08:39 PM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by uplifted View Post
Hvac... Where in NY are you located??

Hi Uplifted,

I am in Nesconset, LI, NY
11-01-2010 08:38 PM
HVAC-Cruiser
Quote:
Originally Posted by yjkid95 View Post
Another question is how much wheeling do you want to do with it. It may be a smart choice to go with a automatic if you are going to be doing a lot of wheeling. I'm going with a 700r4 myself.
The HP and torque #'s I gave you were on the Dyno with open headers, it was a boat, no mufflers or cat. Add that I will probably loose 30+ HP and the same for torque

AUTOMATIC Don't curse at me!!!! LOL JK . I was born and raised shifting learned to drive with a 3 on a tree 65 chevy c20 PU and that was all she wrote ...
All kidding aside we have 135 acres upstate on the side of a mountain. 100 of them are woods with logging roads that aside from my Jeeps I only travel with a D-8 dozzer Steep grades, logs across, mud bogs etc.. lots of real rough terrain. I use the house and property for my safety valve to stay sane.

I am lucky enough where I drive up on a whim and stay a week or 2 playing Grizzly Adams and am always there on weekends.

Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

I don't mind spending the money as long as its not going to grenade on me in the middle of nowhere


Bill
11-01-2010 08:34 PM
yjkid95 ^^I'm jealous of this guy.
11-01-2010 08:28 PM
uplifted Hvac... Where in NY are you located??
11-01-2010 08:10 PM
yjkid95 Another question is how much wheeling do you want to do with it. It may be a smart choice to go with a automatic if you are going to be doing a lot of wheeling. I'm going with a 700r4 myself.
11-01-2010 08:08 PM
yjkid95 Thats a whole lot of power to be putting through that ax15 I'd look at upgrading the tranny. That ax15 may last for a bit but it WILL eventually pop ecspecially if your right foot has a intimate relationship with that skinny pedal. A 8.8 rear and D44 upfront would do it for you as long as your not going to go over 35's but with that amount of power id get some beefy shafts in those axles and truss them as well. A detroit locker would be great in the rear. They're supposed to have excellent road manners but make driving in snow a little iffy at times. I'd go with a detroit locker in the rear and a detroit trutrac (LSD) upfront since your in ny and will be driving in some snow. A locker in the front would not be good in snow at all.
11-01-2010 07:58 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Hey YJ,

The engine turns 414hp @ 5k and 457ftlbs @2280 on the dyno. I built her for the boat BUT would rather have her in the YJ ( more fun time )

What would you recommend for axles, should I go for a 44 or a 8.8 in the front and a 9" in the rear or can I get away with Detroit lockers and new shafts?

If the trans is fine I will order the new bell tomorrow.... Hum.. thats another question I have, with all I have read the advanced adapters bell & toyota slave seems like the better $ wise choice, although it looks like it limits clutch choices. Going with the Novak I have to get a truck slave bell in addition to the conversion kit

I am at the point that I am afraid to order a lesser adapter and make a big $ mistake
11-01-2010 07:07 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Hi YJKID,
Thanks for the input, I will post eng specs, in a few time to put the kids to bed . Wife is yelling
11-01-2010 07:03 PM
HVAC-Cruiser Hey RSC,
Thanks, and I hope you are right about the trans and transfer case. I am sure I can find a HD rear laying around one of my racing buddies shops, its the front axle that I will have to Craigslist or flea-bay
11-01-2010 06:52 PM
yjkid95 Alrighty amigo, heres the scoop...
1. Check out this website and read up. They also have excellent parts and customer service. I personally am dealing with them and love these people.... novak-adapt.com

2. The D35 would hold up if you could control yourself with a STOCK 350 a 350 stroked to a 383...well I guess it would be funny to watch the D35 to blow to pieces Tell me what tire size your planning on running as well and I can point you in the right direction.

3. The AX-15 transmission can hold up to 400 ftlbs. of torque and matched horsepower. So I don't know how long that will last since your really pushing it here.

4. Your np231j transfercase will be just fine with the swap. You can also upgrade literally just about every aspect of it if you wanted to have a bullet proof drivetrain.

5. Don't drop the HP the more the merrier
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