|01-08-2011 12:50 PM|
Been a little bit since I have replied to this, so I figure I would jump on and give you a little update on what I have found. Due to a flaw in the design of the after market starter I have the starter is getting moisture in it and freezing solid and causing my issue. There is two sets of vents on the front of the starter and on my 94 YJ the starter faces forward, which if you hit a good puddle of water and don't have a chance to dry it out completely when the ambient temperature is 20 degrees and then the over night low is 5 to 8 degrees causes some issues. In my apartment complex where I park has no direct sunlight to warm the Jeep up enough to do anything, so I parked in the sun and could walk out and start it right up.
I got a garage from my apartment complex and have not had an issue up to this date. So my dad and I are going to think outside the box and make something to go over the starter to deflect the water and crap away from the vents up front. I will try and post some pics afterwards if I get a chance.
Thank you for all your ideas and other options to look at. Also thank you Jim from Optima at things to try with the battery and I am happy with my optima and have not had an issue to this date.
|01-07-2011 01:15 AM|
hannahuffster, the reason I ask if they are our batteries, is because other companies now also produce batteries with colored tops and they are sometimes generically referred to as “YellowTops,” just because of the color of the battery. By stating that you are not an “authorized representative,” I don't know if that means you are an employee at that company or not employed by them at all. From what you have described, it sounds like this company is a retailer of our batteries and if that is the case, it is very concerning to hear they are opening our batteries, modifying them and re-installing them in customer vehicles. Regardless of their level of expertise, this is not proper procedure for returned batteries (warranty or not) and could present a serious safety risk for those customers. If they are a retailer, at the very least, I would encourage you to ask them to contact Optima and inform them of what they are doing.
I understand your concerns about warranties and I think most manufacturers try to strike a balance between backing their products and bailing out people who abuse or misuse their products. When I purchased a new Camaro, I was very honest with my dealer about my intended use (it's hard not to be when you install a roll bar and racing harnesses). When I burned up my first rear end at Road America, the dealer was nice enough to replace it under warranty, but told me they couldn't replace it again, due to my use. I was expecting to pay for it, so I thought that was more than fair. While we come across stories quite often of folks who see ten years of use or more from our batteries, we also process warranty claims from a lot of folks who are sorting out electrical issues at the expense of our batteries. We certainly want to take care of our customers, but a line has to be drawn somewhere.
Garyk, if your battery is still within the factory warranty, I would encourage you to bring it to your retailer for warranty service.
|01-06-2011 02:26 PM|
|01-06-2011 02:16 PM|
|01-05-2011 05:22 PM|
I could PM you the contact information that you would like to receive but choose not to because I am not an authorized representative of that particular company. I dont see how a person can blame somebody with the ability and know-how to fix something that is no-longer in warranty (weather it is by a month or a year)? Maybe I didnt make my self clear enough to begin with, but this is not how they are taking care of warranty claims, but helping repeat customers who spent 220$+ on a battery that barely lasted 2 years (which seems a lot more common than it should in my small town). This isnt you standard auto parts store. This place services auto, industrial forklift fleets, and etc. All they do is batteries and they have the tools and ability to know if there is something wrong with an auto's 12 system or the battery itself.
While I couldnt agree with you more about the best kinds of warranties I do have to say that the worst kinds are the ones that consecutively run out just prior to the items life, practically time and time again. I am not saying that most companies (yours or any others) regularly set them up this way, but it doesnt "suck" for the purchaser any less. Especially when the purchaser believes they are paying <almost double> for supreme quality.
Also while remembering that warranties are not the only reason a person buys a particular product - Remember that warranties are many times a person is not a repeat customer, which I can attest to my situation. I have had 2 different optima batteries in the last few years and feel the MUCH under-performed, especially for the price.
|01-05-2011 04:40 PM|
hannahuffster, are we talking about Optima YellowTops or some other battery brand with a yellow top? If they are Optima YellowTops, could you please PM me the contact information for your local battery specialist? If one of our retailers is attempting to “repair” our batteries by taking them apart, we'd really like to talk to them.
The best warranty is the one you never need to use, but if a battery fails from a manufacturing defect, it is likely to occur well within the first year of use, if not the first month. Many companies use warranties as a marketing tool, sometimes reassuring consumers who may not have a great deal of confidence in the quality of a product. Other companies will offer long warranty periods, but begin pro-ration immediately or include a myriad of exclusions for things like batteries that are discharged below 10 volts. If the length of warranty were the only consideration people made in making purchases, we'd be having the conversation on a Kia or Hyundai board.
|01-04-2011 11:19 AM|
|01-04-2011 10:42 AM|
Blindndyslexic, I'm sorry to hear about the problems you've been having and I'd like to help. Fully-charged, your YellowTop should measure approximately 13.0-13.2 volts. If you can fully-charge your YellowTop and disconnect it from your vehicle, it should measure close to your maximum voltage 12-24 hours later. If it can hold a charge when disconnected, but loses voltage when connected to your vehicle, there is something else going on with your electrical system that is discharging your battery. If your battery does not hold a charge when disconnected from your vehicle, send me a PM with your contact information and your retailer's information.
Hannahuffster, I believe what you are calling “little tin jumpers” are the straps, which make the connections from cell to cell within the battery. In an Optima, these straps are 99.99% pure lead, and are cast (as opposed to welded in most other batteries). A cast strap is unique to Optima, proprietary, more expensive, and more difficult to manufacture, but it is a process that gives superior performance. A larger and/or better-designed, manufactured or connected strap will allow better high current flow due to lower internal resistance, which can be reflected in the CCA rating.
These straps are not little in an Optima and are actually larger than most batteries. A lot of work has been done to ensure that an Optima's strap design allows the greatest possible power flow through the battery. The care taken in design and manufacturing, and the highest quality materials used in Optima's straps are a big part of the reason why an Optima battery's CCA rating is better than other batteries of the same weight.
Garyk, I'm sorry to hear about the problem you had with your battery. Was it replaced under warranty?
|01-01-2011 08:41 PM|
|01-01-2011 04:11 PM|
|hannahuffster||Knowing now that you have an optima, to me, almost guarantees the battery is at fault. There are little tin jumpers that run on to of each cell- from cell to cell (under the plastic casing of course) and those are the first thing to go. They start to corrode and cannot conduct enough power from cell to cell (before they finally fail) like having a dead cell in a standard battery. If you have a battery specialist place in town they can usually repair them (or maybe replace them I think the yellow top has a 2 year warranty). But those "jumpers" typically only last about 2 years (sometimes much less). IMO your best bet is to avoid deep cycle or dual purpose batteries and just get a good high power CCA standard battery & avoid sealed or gel batteries as they sound great, but are usually over priced and over rated and fail prematurely.|
|01-01-2011 01:40 PM|
Yeah, I mis-read that. I cleaned the terminals even though there was not much on there before I put the new cables on.
I have an Optima Yellow top battery that is just a little over a year old.
|01-01-2011 01:27 PM|
|90YJinPC||The sad, slow death of your battery. Been thru the same myself, crank fine on warm days and click on cold. Replaced my battery and all is good now.|
|01-01-2011 12:18 PM|
What is the CCA of you battery? Do you have any stereo equipment or anything that could have a small short or be a power hog? If your battery is underrated and you have some kind of small short it could be draining your battery just enough to not start on those cold morns. Your battery was obviously low if when hooked to your dads truck it dropped his RPMs. When I got my jeep the PO had a 400CCA battery and mine wouldnt hardly start in cold morns it was S_L_O_W and I only got one shot at it.
I also agree with gennybro 100%...
What size and how old is your battery?
|01-01-2011 08:42 AM|
|gennybro||It's possible that it is your battery,which i'm tend to think is your problem. It may have tested good at the parts store when it was warm,but you may have a bad cell in your battery. Causeing it not to have a full charge when it gets cold. When it gets cold enough that ya think the jeep may not start,before youtry to start it, put a meter on your battery and check the voltage.|
|01-01-2011 08:29 AM|
|jsawduste||You did not answer the question. Go back and reread what was asked.|
|01-01-2011 01:05 AM|
|Blindndyslexic||Wen I replaced my cables they were the full cables with the new terminals and ends on them.|
|01-01-2011 12:48 AM|
Welcome to the Forum
When you replaced your cables, did you make sure that the battery posts are corrosion free. Just a thought.
|01-01-2011 12:46 AM|
Welcome to the forum!
Someone on here has experienced the same or a similar issue as what you are describing & will post soon! I found this site looking for help myself.
|01-01-2011 12:41 AM|
A rather odd issue
Ok, so I am having a rather odd issue I have never encountered before. When the temperature drops into the teens or lower for the over night lows and I go out the next morning to start my jeep all I get is a click, it will not even crank.
First thing I did was pulled the starter and took it to have it tested, it tested like it was brand new. Frustrated I went home and put my starter in and it fired right up, I took it back to the parts store and they did a battery, starter, and charging test all on the vehicle. All normal. So I moved to the cables, I had a bad negative cable so I just sprung for two brand new cables and checked my relays. I did not have a problem again, granted, it was not nearly as cold. Well the temperature dipped again and now it is doing the same thing. I had my dad come down with his truck and we hooked my jeep up to his truck with some jumper cables and it actually dropped the RPM on his truck when I tried to turn it over.
Any ideas? I am fresh out.