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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-18-2011 01:20 PM
jeepjones I think the guy doing your brakes is an idiot.
01-18-2011 01:11 PM
jasonwrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrich View Post
Doubtful it has anything to do with the ground straps - but it is plausible.
Think about it - the engine is mounted in rubber, everything on the drive train is. Without a ground strap between body to engine, there's no connection. The parking brake cable runs to both - drive train and body. It could be tack welding itself in the engaged position. There should be blue marks where it's doing it.

Not likely, but stranger things than that have happened. No body to engine strap can cause all kinds of weird problems. Chryslers had a big problem years ago with that. The only connection was the thin shifter cable - the starter would draw all it's current through that cable and it would weld itself to the inside the cable's housing - or burn it through - causing it to be stuck in gear.

My guess without seeing it - when they replaced the brake springs they used the wrong ones. The new drum is smaller, the springs on that side are not stretched as much.
If they got the springs from a cheapie China parts house like Autozone, that's a good possibility. They combine part numbers way too much. Even the shoes could be wrong.


Take it back again!
I agree on the parts opinion. I was rebuilding my rear drums and bought some new parts from Autozone found that the parts were slightly different such as the hook length on the springs and the adjuster cable guides. no matter what I did they would not fit like the stock ones. so I ended up reusing the old ones. glad thing was the old ones were not in a bad shape.
01-18-2011 12:57 PM
rrich Doubtful it has anything to do with the ground straps - but it is plausible.
Think about it - the engine is mounted in rubber, everything on the drive train is. Without a ground strap between body to engine, there's no connection. The parking brake cable runs to both - drive train and body. It could be tack welding itself in the engaged position. There should be blue marks where it's doing it.

Not likely, but stranger things than that have happened. No body to engine strap can cause all kinds of weird problems. Chryslers had a big problem years ago with that. The only connection was the thin shifter cable - the starter would draw all it's current through that cable and it would weld itself to the inside the cable's housing - or burn it through - causing it to be stuck in gear.

My guess without seeing it - when they replaced the brake springs they used the wrong ones. The new drum is smaller, the springs on that side are not stretched as much.
If they got the springs from a cheapie China parts house like Autozone, that's a good possibility. They combine part numbers way too much. Even the shoes could be wrong.


Take it back again!
01-18-2011 10:22 AM
jasonwrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuckerm View Post
Guys,
Took the thing back, and they replaced the left drum. Drove away, got home, drove some more and relaize that now the left was fine, and now the right rear was burning up. Through trial and error, determined that if I started the vehicle with the parking brake engaged, it seems to catch and starts overheating the left. If I start the vehicle with the parking brake not engaged, it is fine. A guy here at work suggested that the problem may be that the engine grounding wire my have come loose, and that may be what is causing that parking brake to stay engaged? Does this make sense as a plausible explanation?
Thanks,
Tucker
hes BSing. parking brake is manual controlled, has nothing to do with electrical connection.
I think they guy might just messed up installing the shoes.
01-18-2011 09:16 AM
Tuckerm
Left Rear brake burning up issue - strange

Guys,
Took the thing back, and they replaced the left drum. Drove away, got home, drove some more and relaize that now the left was fine, and now the right rear was burning up. Through trial and error, determined that if I started the vehicle with the parking brake engaged, it seems to catch and starts overheating the left. If I start the vehicle with the parking brake not engaged, it is fine. A guy here at work suggested that the problem may be that the engine grounding wire my have come loose, and that may be what is causing that parking brake to stay engaged? Does this make sense as a plausible explanation?
Thanks,
Tucker
01-11-2011 09:18 AM
Tuckerm FYI, my computer's keyboard is sticking, hence the moronic typos.
01-11-2011 09:16 AM
Tuckerm
Thanks guys!

I will take it back your suggestions. By the way, just s eeryone does not think that I was a complete idiot, took the thing to a recognized tire and brake shop, and they provided written guarantee for the aprts and labor for 24 months, so we shall see. Thanks, this is a great site! Tuckerm
01-10-2011 05:13 PM
willysmb Tuckerm,
Have you replaced both rear wheel cylinders?Also, check for rear axle seal,if it leaks,they tend to run onto the shoes,destroying them.On my jeep,I had a small axle seal leak on one side of my super 35 c-clip kit.I fixed the leak,cleaned the brand new shows with brake cleaner,and reinstalled.NO good,once the shows are wet with oil,there shot.As soon as you hit the brakes,the pads heat up and exude the oil causing the other side to overheat.My Jeep has 35,s,stopping with one rear wasnt working out LOL!.New shoes took care of it....
01-10-2011 03:46 PM
jasonwrangler loosen the handbrake adjuster inside the drum
01-10-2011 03:26 PM
Hammerwalk left rear huh? That sounds eerily familiar after the dealership worked on my brakes. Come to find out, they "didn't bleed the brake system" after all those parts were replaced. Do your brakes feel mushy?
01-10-2011 01:32 PM
elevatorman I would say a possible proportioning valve as well but due to it only being one brake the cause is most likely a shoe adjustment or a bad return spring not pulling the shoe back in once hydraulic pressure is dropped.
You can heve someone apply the brakes for you while you inspect travel and return this of course being observed with the tire and drum removed etc...but I would think the tire shop would have done this...ughhhh I take that back,I was a Snap-On dealer in the early 80's and these mechanics are generally fly by night go where the $ is types. See post above and if needed go to a good brake shop.
01-10-2011 01:22 PM
jeepjones I have a feeling they're going to try and screw you over on something they screwed up and can't figure out how to fix, try getting the top master mechanic to have a look (if they have one).
01-10-2011 01:20 PM
jeepjones Welcome to the forum. How about getting them to properly adjust them, another reason why if you have to take a vehicle to a shop always take it to a shop that specifically does the work you need done. I wouldn't go to a dentist if I needed a brain surgeon, same reason why you shouldn't let a tire shop do your brakes.
01-10-2011 01:05 PM
composto86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuckerm
Just replaced rear master cylinder, drum, springs pads etc on both rear wheels on 2004 Wrangler, have taken the thing back twice to the tire store that replaced them because after 10 minutes or so of driving, brake overheats and and is burning up. Anyone know what to do, they can't figure it out.
Ebrake cable needs to be adjusted??? Maybe?
01-10-2011 01:04 PM
Tuckerm
Left rear brake burning up -help

Just replaced rear master cylinder, drum, springs pads etc on both rear wheels on 2004 Wrangler, have taken the thing back twice to the tire store that replaced them because after 10 minutes or so of driving, brake overheats and and is burning up. Anyone know what to do, they can't figure it out.

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