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-   -   What have I gotten myself into? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f290/what-have-i-gotten-myself-into-102892.html)

The Yeti 07-16-2011 11:12 PM

What have I gotten myself into?
 
Hello Guys and Gals. Did the cranks change from 92 to 97? I have a 97 cherokee 4.0L I am swapping in my 94 YJ 2.5L. I am using a 92 model computer and sensors off a 92 cherokee. I have the flywheel and 5 speed out of a 91 cherokee behind all this. Crazy right? Where I am at is I have everything working, wiring and such but I'm not getting fire at the right time. My coil is firing and I know my distributor is in time I've went through that like 10 times. My guess right now is that They changed the cranks and it is throwing my Crank position sensor off. I looked it up online at oreilly's and they say that the flywheels are the same. I also found online where it says that 92 and 97 crank numbers are different cast numbers. The flywheel bolted to it fine but maybe the bolt holes are rotated or something crazy. I'm at a loss. This engine may just may not work. Cap, button, wires and plugs are all new. I'm getting fire on the wire going from coil to cap but I'm not getting any fire on any of the plug wires. Any help would be appreciated.

The Yeti 07-16-2011 11:13 PM

I also just replaced my Distributor sync pickup.

2xs 07-17-2011 12:42 AM

Quote:

Cap, button, wires and plugs are all new. I'm getting fire on the wire going from coil to cap but I'm not getting any fire on any of the plug wires.
You replace the distributor rotor?
Did you crack it or the cap?

Sounds to me like the rotor is burnt through.

The Yeti 07-17-2011 01:40 AM

No the rotor is brand new, No Issues with it. Cap isn't broken or cracked. The computer is good also. I put it on my friends 92 cherokee and it fired up and ran perfect. I'm worried that the crank might be different. It appears that the coil is sending spark to the cap when the rotor is between two plug wires and not sending it anywhere. I'm not sure.

laervin 07-17-2011 02:50 AM

not sure if this helps
 
Maybe this is obvious but, 1992 is OBD 1 emissions and 1997 is OBD 2 emissions. I'm surprised this is working even a little bit. Anyway, I think you could be onto something with the crank sensors, Jeep may have had to change something there to help comply with OBD 2 emissions. Hope this helps ya!

RLaFitte 07-17-2011 08:04 AM

Hey Yeti, where in East Tennessee are you? If near Sevierville, call Spence's 4WD there. They know everything about it.

Beaver5 07-17-2011 08:38 AM

Hey, another east tn guy here. There is a place called the jeep doctor in dandrige tn. Jeeps are all they work on. They are really good. I had a 94 cherokee no one could fix and he called me about 2 hrs after I dropped it of telling me to come and get it its done,never had another problem with it. They are located on hwy 92 off the 417 exit. I will try and find there # I have it somewhere. Will post if I find it.

Beaver5 07-17-2011 08:43 AM

Jeep Doctor 865-397-0995 They will probobly help you right over the phone unless they are slammed.

The Yeti 07-17-2011 10:29 AM

Thanks for all the input. I am in chattanooga and I will call Jeep Doctor and Spence's 4WD and go from there.

2xs 07-17-2011 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Yeti (Post 1385682)
It appears that the coil is sending spark to the cap when the rotor is between two plug wires and not sending it anywhere. I'm not sure.

No, the spark HAS to go somewhere, if its making it to the cap, its making it to ground somewhere.

Are you SURE your distributor isint 180 out?
OBD anything wont magically stop the spark in the cap, somethign has to be askew. the OBD is making the coil fire so rule that out.

Try this, use Carb clean to see if it starts, could be your just not seeing the spark at the plug wire end, and your issue is no fuel injector pulse. But do this AFTER making sure your rotor is pointing at #1 at TDC compression stroke. I know you have probably checked it, but check it again, id hate to see you pull an engine to find out later your distributor WAS 180 out. it is an EASY mistake to pop that in 180 out.
Remember #1 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE.

Beaver5 07-17-2011 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xs (Post 1387158)
No, the spark HAS to go somewhere, if its making it to the cap, its making it to ground somewhere.

Are you SURE your distributor isint 180 out?
OBD anything wont magically stop the spark in the cap, somethign has to be askew. the OBD is making the coil fire so rule that out.

Try this, use Carb clean to see if it starts, could be your just not seeing the spark at the plug wire end, and your issue is no fuel injector pulse. But do this AFTER making sure your rotor is pointing at #1 at TDC compression stroke. I know you have probably checked it, but check it again, id hate to see you pull an engine to find out later your distributor WAS 180 out. it is an EASY mistake to pop that in 180 out.
Remember #1 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE.

I was thinking the same thing about the distrutor being 180 out. My cousin did that on his sammy.

The Yeti 07-17-2011 11:23 PM

The distributor is not 180 out. I pulled number one plug and turned the engine with a wrench till i felt compression. I also checked the fuel injector pulse with a light set and it is getting pulse. I did some more research and I found that they changed the flywheels in 91. The crank position sensor teeth on the flywheels are different. I am not sure what year my flywheel is. I am gonna check it tomorrow and I know what to look for. If I do have the earlier flywheel it would cause the problems I am experiencing right? It would be confusing the computer and causing the timing issues. I will check that tomorrow and let you know what I find out.

The Yeti 07-17-2011 11:24 PM

I also have tried spraying carb clean and pouring gas straight in the intake and it had no effect.

2xs 07-18-2011 01:32 AM

Ok, well, do your flywheel idea and let us know the end result.

Seems you have covered all my ideas, so Im verry curious about the end, please let us know.

laervin 07-18-2011 02:32 AM

Dist. and coil.
 
Ok, I installed a brand new distributor cap once and somehow managed to chip the center carbon thats on the inside of the cap clean off. Thats one thing to dbl check. Also I would bench test your coil with a multi-meter. Check both primary and secondary winding's. Since you are getting spark you would be looking for out of speck resistance. It is possible to get a spark that is too weak for spark plugs but you can still see it. Sorry in my earlier post, I didn't realize till after i posted that you are getting rid of all the 97 stuff:facepalm:. Anyway, again, hope this helps.

The Yeti 07-18-2011 06:56 PM

Hello all. I checked my flywheel today and sure enough I have the older style flywheel :banghead: So I ordered the correct flywheel and am gonna go pull the engine and get it ready to put the new flywheel in tomorrow after it arrives at the part store. This should fix my timing problems. I will let all of you know what happens after I get her put back together. Thanks for all your input so far!

2xs 07-18-2011 08:06 PM

might be easier to pull the trans back 4-5" and swap out the flywheel.
MUCH easier then pulling the whole engine.

could you post pics of both flywheels side by side so we can see the difference?
tyvm.

The Yeti 07-19-2011 12:12 AM

Yeah it would be easier to do the transmission that way but I already have the fenders and grill off. I also wasn't able to get good welds on the back of the engine mounts so I figured I'd go ahead and pull the engine so I can make the mounts a lot more solid. I finished pulling the engine out and got the old flywheel off about an hour ago. I am going early in the morning to pick up the new flywheel and I will take pictures of them side by side to post for you all. I plan on working on it most of the day tomorrow so I will try to update everything on here tomorrow night.

The Yeti 07-19-2011 11:58 PM

IT LIVES!!!! The jeep roared to life today. If you had saw my reaction you would have thought I just made the winning touch down at the superbowl. I felt like I had. The flywheel ended up fixing the timing issues but I still wasn't enough fuel to the fuel rail. So I pulled the fuel pump and took it back to the store as it was still under warrenty. I got back put it in and nothing. Well after some trial and error I realized that I had the fuel lines switched. There are quick releases on the engine and they are different sizes so I didn't have them mixed up there but they are both the same size on the frame side of those lines. So after I fixed those I realized I had a bad o-ring in my fuel pressure regulator and after that she cranked right up. But as promised Here are the pictures of the flywheels you all were curious about.

Here are the two side by side. The shiny one in the box is the correct one.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/...719_093826.jpg
Here is a more up close picture of the correct flywheel. Notice the three groups of four teeth.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/...719_093835.jpg
Here is the older style flywheel. It is covered in teeth and has 3 larger gaps around it.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/...719_093905.jpg
It's easy to see why the computer was thrown off haha. Well there is my nightmare story.


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