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-   -   WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater Installation (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/warmseats-waterproof-seat-heater-installation-113328.html)

yomondo 09-17-2011 08:03 PM

WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater Installation
 
Weather turning cold? About to put the top and doors back on the Jeep? Not so fast! Consider installing seat heaters instead, and extend your topless/doorless driving season!

Note that this installation was done on a 2009 2-door Rubicon. Compatibility and installation may differ for your JK, especially with 2011's and newer as many interior features of the JK changed starting with the 2011 model year.

There are several aftermarket seat heater options on the market today, but the two main reasons I went with WarmSeats are 1)The heating elements are waterproof, which I feel is essential for a topless Jeep, and 2)The big 11"x22" heating element size fits very nicely in the JK seats, covering the full length of the seat and back and nearly the full width of the center channel of the seat.

Parts and Supplies Needed Per Seat:
1 WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater
1 18-22 gauge wire tap
1 spade connector for 18-22 gauge wire
2 or 3 zip ties (about 4" long)

Tools Needed:
Breaker bar
Impact wrench
18mm impact socket
Socket wrench
3" socket extension
6" socket extension
7mm socket
10mm socket
10mm box or slip wrench
T20 Torx driver
T30 Torx driver
C-ring removal pliers
Slip joint pliers
Long nose pliers
Small, 1" wide pry bar, chisel or putty knife
Wire cutter
Wire stripper
Connector crimping tool

1. This is what comes in each package (I bought two packages, one for each front seat):
- two heating elements, identical, one for seat, one for back
- wiring harness with relay and switch
- inline fuse holder with fuse (I didn't use this)
- a few small zip ties (I didn't use these, I used my own slightly bigger zip ties)
- general installation instructions
- sheet of tape strips to tape heating elements to cushions (not needed)
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7284.jpg

Although I've heard it's possible installing such seat heaters without removing the seat, I highly recommend removing the seat to make it much easier to access all the areas you need to get to.

Before removing the seat though, first determine whether or not your seats have side airbags. If they do, you should see an "SRS" tag on the seat, like this:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7291.jpg

and a circuit plug underneath the seat that looks like this:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7289.jpg

If you don't have side airbags and don't have any wiring connected to your seat, you can skip to Step 6.

2. Using a 10mm box or slip wrench, loosen then disconnect the negative battery post connector from your battery's negative terminal.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7276.jpg

3. Place a non-conductive barrier underneath your negative battery post connector to prevent it from making electrical contact with your battery's negative terminal.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7279.jpg

4. Pump your brakes several times and wait five minutes for the system to discharge. It's important to do this before disconnecting any airbag connectors.

5. After waiting at least five minutes, disconnect the circuit plug(s) underneath the seat. If you don't want to wait, you could use this time to start removing the seat bolts (Step 6).

6. Using an 18mm impact socket and an impact wrench and/or breaker bar with 3" or 6" socket extension, remove the four bolts holding the seat to the floor. These bolts are on there pretty tight, as one would hope they'd be. I started off with the breaker bar to get the bolt initially loosened, then finished removing it with the impact wrench.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7293.jpg

7. I removed my back seat and used the back of the Jeep as my workbench.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7296.jpg

We'll start by opening up the seat cover.

8. Remove the seat cover retainer in the front of the seat.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7302.jpg

9. Remove the seat cover retainers on sides of the seat.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7304.jpg

10. Peel back the front of the seat cover.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7308.jpg

11. There are five clips across the seat, holding the cover to the cushion. This is what they look like before removal:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7310.jpg

12. I used a pair of C-Ring Removal pliers like these to open up the clips for removal:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7295.jpg

Here's what one of the clips look like removed:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7341.jpg

The three clips in the center will not be replaced, so you could just use a pair of dikes to cut them for quicker removal.

13. Using a screw driver, poke a hole from the bottom of the seat cushion to feed the heating element wire through.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7316.jpg

14. Feed the heating element wire through the hole in the seat cushion.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7318.jpg

Continued below....

yomondo 09-17-2011 08:04 PM

Continued....

15. Slide the heating element under the seat cover.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7321.jpg

16. Use a pair of slip joint pliers to squeeze the two clip on the sides back into place.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7322.jpg

Here's the seat heating element in place after replacing the two clips on the sides.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7324.jpg

17. Put the cover fully back on the seat and put the front and side seat cover retainers back in place.

18. Now it's time to open up the back cover. Tilt the seat forward and remove the back cover retainer along the bottom. This is on quite tightly, and is a bit difficult to remove.

19. In order to peel back the back cover, we need to remove the levers on the side. Use a pair of long nose pliers to pull off the retaining clip holding the levers in place.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7326.jpg

Here's the front passenger seat with the side levers removed.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7327.jpg

20. With the side levers removed, we can now peel back the back cover. If you have side airbags, this is as far as you'll be able to peel it back.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7331.jpg

21. Slide the back heating element underneath the back cover and feed it in all the way up to the top rib.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7332.jpg

22. Route the heating element wire to the side that would be closer to the center console of the Jeep.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7334.jpg

23. Put the back cover back on, pull down tightly and put the cover retainer back in place.

24. Put the side levers back in place on the seat.

25. Tie down the heating element wires underneath the seat.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7336.jpg

26. Set the seat aside and repeat Steps 6 through 25 for other seats being fitted with these seat heaters.

Now it's time to mount the switches and do the wiring. There are many options for switch placement, but because of the length of wires provided, you'll need to keep the switches pretty close to the seats unless you want to extend the wires. For the front seats, this means switch placement somewhere along the center console. Disassemble the center console to find a place to mount the switches.

27. This step isn't absolutely necessary, however it's easier working with the center console door removed and out of the way. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four screws attaching the center console door hinge to the center console.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...r_DSC_1784.jpg

28. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four small screws at the four corners of the side panel of the center console. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the one larger screw on the bottom of the panel. Do the same on the other side.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...s_DSC_1786.jpg

29. Pull the center console side panels outward a bit and unlatch the side clips holding rear cup holder and rear panel in place.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...r_DSC_1787.jpg
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...l_DSC_1788.jpg

30. Fully remove the center console insert by lifting up and pulling outward the side panels while wiggling the center console insert out the back.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...t_DSC_1790.jpg

31. I decided to put both front seat switches here on the passenger side of the center console. Not necessarily a great place for the driver side switch to be, but that's where I found space close to the seats.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7338.jpg

Continued below....

yomondo 09-17-2011 08:04 PM

Continued....

32. There's an existing ground point under the front seat which I used to connect the ground wire from the seat heater wiring harness to. Crimp a spade connector to the white ground wire from the seat heater wiring harness and use a 10mm socket and wrench on the nut at this ground point.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...p/DSC_7339.jpg

For power to the wiring harness, I decided to tap into the switched power point on the left side of the front console. Since each seat heater draws only 3 amps of current, I figured this 20 amp fused switched power source should easily handle the load in addition to whatever I might plug into the power point, which is usually just my phone charger.

The front console will need to be pulled apart in order to gain access to the wire that we'll be tapping into.

33. Remove the bottom panel of the front console. Start by using a small pry bar, chisel or putty knike, and pry away the top edge of this bottom panel. There are two snaps on the top edge to pop out. Once these two snaps are popped out, you can lift the panel off.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...e_DSC_1770.jpg
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...e_DSC_1771.jpg

34. With the bottom panel of the front console removed, you can now access the two bottom screws holding the front console main panel in place. Use a 7mm socket and a 6" socket extension to remove these screws.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...l_DSC_1775.jpg
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...l_DSC_1774.jpg

35. With the bottom screws removed, carefully pull away the front console panel starting from the bottom. There are I think three snaps on both sides to pop out.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...e_DSC_1777.jpg

36. Tap the positive wire going to the switched power point on the left side of the front console, and run the red wire from the wiring harness (or red wires from the wiring harnesses of multiple seats) to this tap.

37. Reassemble the front console and center console.

38. Put the seat(s) back in place, connect the seat heater wires to the seat heater wiring harness, reconnect any factory circuit plugs underneath the seat, and rebolt the seat(s) to the floor.

There you have it. Enjoy your extended topless doorless driving season!

ESP 09-17-2011 08:07 PM

Fantastic write up yomondo.

yomondo 09-17-2011 08:10 PM

Thanks!

trennmaschine 09-17-2011 09:51 PM

Great write-up! How long did it take to do the job start to finish?

Armadaskier 09-17-2011 11:01 PM

Good write up! I installed the Mopar heated seat kit in my 2010 myself. Wasn't too hard, I really liked the way the Mopar kit plugs right into the back of the cigarette lighter for simplicity. Heated seats rock though. Deff worth it.

Armadaskier 09-17-2011 11:02 PM

And for anyone wondering most of these installs take 2-4 hours depending on how good you are with doing interior things.

aelwero 09-17-2011 11:20 PM

X2 on taking the seat out... it will be less work than trying to reinstall those retaining strips with the seat still in the jeep.

yomondo 09-17-2011 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trennmaschine (Post 1579553)
Great write-up! How long did it take to do the job start to finish?

It's been a little while, I actually did this installation back in April, but I think it took about 5-6 hours to do both seats and take pictures.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armadaskier (Post 1579708)
I really liked the way the Mopar kit plugs right into the back of the cigarette lighter for simplicity.

I liked that about the Mopar ones too. I really wanted the waterproof ones though, plus the WarmSeats heating elements are bigger than the Mopar ones.

Armadaskier 09-17-2011 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yomondo

It's been a little while, I actually did this installation back in April, but I think it took about 5-6 hours to do both seats.

I liked that about the Mopar ones too. I really wanted the waterproof ones though, plus the WarmSeats heating elements are bigger than the Mopar ones.

Yea that's about my only thing I can complain about is the size. Mine have been rained on 3 times and still work perfect though, so far.

yomondo 09-17-2011 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armadaskier (Post 1579771)
Mine have been rained on 3 times and still work perfect though, so far.

That's good to know. Mine have been rained on twice, and as should be expected, they survived as well.

fuelcell 09-12-2012 07:22 PM

switch placement
 
1 Attachment(s)
i followed this tutorial, except bought wire extensions and placed the switches in the center of the dash console.

RB-10rubicon 09-12-2012 08:16 PM

Nice write up .i have the mopar ones and love them .they get HOT .how much was the warmseat kit.i know that the chech corp makes the mopar kit for them

yomondo 09-13-2012 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuelcell (Post 2786233)
i followed this tutorial, except bought wire extensions and placed the switches in the center of the dash console.

Awesome! That looks like a good spot for the switches.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RB-10rubicon (Post 2786494)
Nice write up .i have the mopar ones and love them .they get HOT .how much was the warmseat kit.i know that the chech corp makes the mopar kit for them

The WarmSeats ones get pretty hot too when on high. I think I read they get to 115F on high and 95F on low. Unless I'm driving topless and doorless in pretty cold temperatures (which I do occasionally, and where these really help), I have to turn it off or put it on low after a little while.

If I remember correctly I think I paid around $82 each for the WarmSeats kits about a year and a half ago.

aarona1000rr 09-13-2012 03:53 AM

I put a set of these in my LS1 miata and love them so far, plus they warm up very quickly!

arncota 09-13-2012 07:00 AM

Excellent write up! Anyone done this on a 2011 or 2012, any changes?

flyfish29 09-13-2012 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arncota
Excellent write up! Anyone done this on a 2011 or 2012, any changes?

I'm curious too about 2012.

yomondo 09-15-2012 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arncota (Post 2787762)
Anyone done this on a 2011 or 2012, any changes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfish29 (Post 2790755)
I'm curious too about 2012.

That'd be good information to know. :popcorn:

IBgeocaching 09-15-2012 03:25 PM

I did it the lazy way on my 11, it was winter and cold out with no garage when I did it. I already had tapped into the cig outlet with a kit so used that for power, used a daystar lower dash panel to put the switches in, and instead of taking the seats apart I just put the heaters under my seat covers. Girlfriend thought it was a waste until she used them and now loves them.

docsackett 12-10-2012 07:02 AM

SO...You installed them Under the seat covers?? my seats in my 99 were pretty worn so since I have owned it I have had covers on them, I bought nice thick neoprene ones..I should be able to install them right under the covers? Thoughts?

IBgeocaching 12-10-2012 12:48 PM

Yup, I just put them under my neoprene covers. They moved a little now & then but i can reach under & pull them into place. It's been over a year since I had to though.

Md_rubi 12-10-2012 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yomondo
Continued....

15. Slide the heating element under the seat cover.

16. Use a pair of slip joint pliers to squeeze the two clip on the sides back into place.

Here's the seat heating element in place after replacing the two clips on the sides.

17. Put the cover fully back on the seat and put the front and side seat cover retainers back in place.

18. Now it's time to open up the back cover. Tilt the seat forward and remove the back cover retainer along the bottom. This is on quite tightly, and is a bit difficult to remove.

19. In order to peel back the back cover, we need to remove the levers on the side. Use a pair of long nose pliers to pull off the retaining clip holding the levers in place.

Here's the front passenger seat with the side levers removed.

20. With the side levers removed, we can now peel back the back cover. If you have side airbags, this is as far as you'll be able to peel it back.

21. Slide the back heating element underneath the back cover and feed it in all the way up to the top rib.

22. Route the heating element wire to the side that would be closer to the center console of the Jeep.

23. Put the back cover back on, pull down tightly and put the cover retainer back in place.

24. Put the side levers back in place on the seat.

25. Tie down the heating element wires underneath the seat.

26. Set the seat aside and repeat Steps 6 through 25 for other seats being fitted with these seat heaters.

Now it's time to mount the switches and do the wiring. There are many options for switch placement, but because of the length of wires provided, you'll need to keep the switches pretty close to the seats unless you want to extend the wires. For the front seats, this means switch placement somewhere along the center console. Disassemble the center console to find a place to mount the switches.

27. This step isn't absolutely necessary, however it's easier working with the center console door removed and out of the way. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four screws attaching the center console door hinge to the center console.

28. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four small screws at the four corners of the side panel of the center console. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the one larger screw on the bottom of the panel. Do the same on the other side.

29. Pull the center console side panels outward a bit and unlatch the side clips holding rear cup holder and rear panel in place.

30. Fully remove the center console insert by lifting up and pulling outward the side panels while wiggling the center console insert out the back.

31. I decided to put both front seat switches here on the passenger side of the center console. Not necessarily a great place for the driver side switch to be, but that's where I found space close to the seats.

Continued below....

Warning!! Those controls are not waterproof and can cause your seat to overheat and burn the wires How do I know??? It happened to me. I replaced this controls with the waterproof ones.

yomondo 12-10-2012 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Md_rubi (Post 3088203)
Warning!! Those controls are not waterproof and can cause your seat to overheat and burn the wires How do I know??? It happened to me. I replaced this controls with the waterproof ones.

What "controls" are you referring to? My seat warmers have been rained on heavily two or three times, and I haven't had any problem yet.

Md_rubi 12-10-2012 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yomondo

What "controls" are you referring to? My seat warmers have been rained on heavily two or three times, and I haven't had any problem yet.

The controls for the heated seats. I have those same ones. Check under the seat from time to time and make sure everything is okay. Mine stopped working after 4 months and they replaced it under warranty. I also purchased their waterproof switch and no more problems.

yomondo 12-10-2012 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Md_rubi (Post 3089257)
The controls for the heated seats. I have those same ones. Check under the seat from time to time and make sure everything is okay. Mine stopped working after 4 months and they replaced it under warranty. I also purchased their waterproof switch and no more problems.

I'm still not sure when you say "controls", if you're referring to the switches or the the relay under the seat.

If you're referring to the switches, where did you mount yours? I've seen people post up about mounting their switches in the coin tray facing up. I can see how that location and orientation can easily catch water if rained on even lightly.

If you're referring to the relay under the seat, I suppose in heavy rain, especially if the floor gets flooded, some water may find its way in there, and possibly blow the fuse or kill the relay.

I haven't had any problem with my setup yet, even after several light and heavy rains.

Nice to hear at least that they took care of you under warranty.

sircody 03-03-2013 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yomondo (Post 3089710)
I'm still not sure when you say "controls", if you're referring to the switches or the the relay under the seat.

If you're referring to the switches, where did you mount yours? I've seen people post up about mounting their switches in the coin tray facing up. I can see how that location and orientation can easily catch water if rained on even lightly.

If you're referring to the relay under the seat, I suppose in heavy rain, especially if the floor gets flooded, some water may find its way in there, and possibly blow the fuse or kill the relay.

I haven't had any problem with my setup yet, even after several light and heavy rains.

Nice to hear at least that they took care of you under warranty.



he was talking about the switches that are waterproof

13/16" (21mm) Waterproof Switch Cover


This is a clear plastic cover for 13/16" (21mm) round switch. Cover snaps on and offers protection from the elements. It only covers the top of the switch.


13/16" (21mm) Waterproof Switch Cover
waterproof-switch-coverhttp://ep.yimg.com/ca/Img/trans_1x1.gifRetail: $2.00http://ep.yimg.com/ca/Img/trans_1x1.gifSale Price: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sports-imports_2253_5071064 (You save: 10%)http://ep.yimg.com/ca/Img/trans_1x1.gif
Qty:

Ta Tonka 03-03-2013 05:16 AM

WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater Installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by IBgeocaching (Post 3087430)
Yup, I just put them under my neoprene covers. They moved a little now & then but i can reach under & pull them into place. It's been over a year since I had to though.

Hey IBgeocatching - I have often wondered if I could get away with just putting an element under my CoverKing Neoprenes. I thought that the material might insulate and keep the heat from getting to my butt though. Do you still get most of he heat through the material?

IBgeocaching 03-03-2013 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ta Tonka (Post 3447296)
Hey IBgeocatching - I have often wondered if I could get away with just putting an element under my CoverKing Neoprenes. I thought that the material might insulate and keep the heat from getting to my butt though. Do you still get most of he heat through the material?

I have the Rugged Ridge neoprene covers and it gets hot enough through them that we have to turn them down or off or like the fiance says start melting down the fat in or backside.

rd3i 12-22-2013 07:16 PM

I just completed this mod on my 2012 JK Sahara. It took me about 6 hours - which is much longer than I anticipated. I got hung up on a few areas, details to follow.

I will describe any differing changes by noting the original step numbers in yomondo's original post. By the way, yomondo, you rule. Your post was super detailed and exceptionally helpful. Thanks!

1. My WarmSeats kits looked exactly the same. When unplugging your seats, you only need to unplug the "master" plug. That is, there's only ONE connection between the seat and the chassis. The other plugs under the seat can be left alone. My passenger seat had a larger yellow plug, compared to the black/gray plug on driver's side.

6. I used an 18" torque wrench to give me the leverage I needed to undo the seat bolts. The wrench is max rated at 75lbs and this was sufficient to loosen all bolts.

9. The outside sides of each seat also had a black zip tie, helping keep the fabric on. I cut this and did not replace. Seems OK so far. You can see it in this picture of my driver's seat on the right side, just inside the seat cover. (oriented NNW - SSE)

http://imgur.com/MbHKkCj.jpg

12. I used two pair of needle nose pliers to manipulate the C rings. Wasn't too bad, but would have been easier with the right tool.

13. The seats already had a hole! Centered, at the very back. Was plenty large to fit the plug/wire. (My index finger fit easily.)

15. When sliding the pad under the passenger seat cover, be mindful of the occupant pressure sensor (used by the air bag system). I place the heating element above the sensor. The sensor's wire also went through the existing hole in the foam.

http://imgur.com/iTTwHhg.jpg

19. The driver's seat also has an adjustment lever that needs to be removed. Simply pop off the center cap with a screw driver. Then, use a T40 and unscrew - it helps to hold the handle to prevent it from moving during loosening/tightening. Once removed, you can easily pull the seat cover over the mechanism.

http://imgur.com/TF4m2GB.jpg

21. When sliding the pad up the seat back, I found it easier to place my hand,
palm up, between the pad and the foam. This allowed me to keep some space between the pad and the foam within the seat, sliding it easily right to the top.

23. #@*&!!*&%$#! This part cost me time and some skin. Manipulating the seat back fabric was incredibly difficult and time consuming. I cut myself twice and had to open another beer to cope. Getting the front and back fabric to reconnect was painful. I ended up using a screwdriver-sized nail puller to help "hook" the plastic clip and pull. As always, the second seat was a bit easier than the first.

25. I still haven't zip tied the wires. I think I'll be able to do this at a later date.

27 - 30. Holy center-console-batman. I wasted a ton of time here, trying to get the console loose enough for me to install the switches. I wish my console disassembled like the OPs. Hopefully these instructions help:

a. Remove the two T30 Torx screws located on either side of the console, towards the back. You will have to slide each seat forward to see them.
b. Remove the shift boot. It has clips to the rear of the car and forward pointing hooks/tabs pointing forward. Therefore, grab that sucker on the rear and pull up to disengage. You did remove the shift knob first, right? Get the 4wd selector knob too, while you're at it. :)
c. Loosen the forward portion of the center console. This part contains the cup holders and trim surrounding the shifter and 4wd selector. This is done by grabbing either side (left and right) and pulling up until the clips become undone. Work from forward to back or vice versa.
d. Lift the forward portion slightly to reveal two additional T30 screws on either side of the console. They're about 5 inches back from the front of the console.
e. This next part was difficult. Remove the forward portion of the console by wiggling, twisting, bending (slightly), and shimmy-ing. It helps to pull the e-brake up as high as possible. Having the entire console (forward portion and main portion) loose during this was helpful. Not sure if it was necessary, but I also removed the center console "net", located just in front of the shifter. I did this by hooking a screwdriver into where the net disappears into, on either side, and pulling. There are clips on the top edge, and tabs on the bottom. Pull back and lift out.
f. The center console should now be quite loose and you should be able to lift the rear about 6-8 inches high. This was enough for me to look up and inside and reach the necessary wires.

31. I decided to place my switches on the front side of the arm rest - just above the cup holders. I felt this was convenient since there is switched power for the 12V plug inside of the console. I used a 3/4" wood drill bit and then expanded the holes slightly with my Dremel and roto-bit.

There is one bundle of 4 wires (red, black, green green/red), running up the passenger side of the console, which feeds both the Aux 120V outlet and the inside 12V socket (in the arm rest). I pulled off some of the tape and then used a quick-splice connector for one seat. Another quick-splice connector completed the job. Ground wires were mounted where OP placed them. I secured the red/black power wires with some black tape every 6 inches or so to help keep them orderly.


That's it! Hopefully these extra steps for a 2012 JK help you guys.


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