DEI 508D Proximity Motion Sensor addition to factory alarm system
Like many of you, I like to run my Jeep topless and doorless during the warm, sunny months between spring and fall. Having your Jeep wide open like this presents an obvious security risk, so I've been looking at ways to install a proximity motion sensor which would trigger an alarm when someone decides to hop into my Jeep to do whatever, perhaps break open my glove box or center console to see what goodies may be in there, or maybe to rip out my myGig stereo/nav system. You may even want to do this for added security with a soft top and doors on. After doing some research, I found a very affordable solution that connects into the existing factory alarm system.
Note that this installation was done on a 2009 2-door Rubicon. Your setup may differ, requiring modified installation steps. In particular, the tail gate trigger wire may be a different color than what I describe below. Also the 4-door center console is different from the 2-door, and the 2011 and newer center consoles are also different.
Parts and Supplies Needed:
DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor
4" strip of good quality self-adhesive velcro
3' of 20 gauge black wire
3' of 20 gauge red wire
3' of 20 gauge white wire
4' of 20 gauge blue wire
6" of 1/16" or 3/32" diameter heatshrink tubing
4' of 1/4" diameter split loom tubing
4 18-22 gauge wire taps
12V 5-pin automotive relay
4 female blade connectors
Small SPST switch (optional)
6-10 small zip-ties (optional)
T20 Torx driver
T30 Torx driver
6" socket extension
Small, 1" wide pry bar, chisel or putty knife
Mini flathead screw driver
Connector crimping tool
1. I purchased the DEI 508D Any Car Alarm Proximity Radar Motion Sensor, sold by AudioSource, at Amazon.com for $35.85.
2. This is what comes in package: sensor, wiring harness and instructions.
The motion sensor is best installed somewhere central within the vehicle, so I figured somewhere in the center console area would be great. So I proceeded to disassemble the center console to find a place to install the motion sensor.
3. This step isn't absolutely necessary, however it's easier working with the center console door removed and out of the way. Using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four screws attaching the center console door hinge to the center console. Once you remove the door and take a look at it, feel free to curse Chrysler for wasting all that potential storage space on a fat a$$ center console door.
4. Move the driver's seat all the way forward, and using a T20 Torx driver, remove the four small screws at the four corners of the driver-side side panel of the center console. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the one larger screw on the bottom of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side.
5. This step is optional, but you might find it easier to work with the rear cup holder removed. Pull the console side panels outward a bit and unlatch the side clips holding rear cup holder in place.
6. The center console rear panel can be removed the same way that the rear cup holder was removed. This is optional, but depending on your setup and your specific installation, you may want to remove this.
7. Fully remove the center console insert by lifting up and pulling outward the side panels while wiggling the center console insert out the back.
Note: If you have a 4-door model with electronic windows, it won't be as easy to remove the center console insert.
8. I found that the DEI 508D sensor fit nicely in front of the center console insert, just below the top lip. I have a 2-door JK. If you have a 4-door, perhaps mounting the sensor towards the back of the center console or in the center console door would position it more centrally. I used a strip of 3M self-adhesive velcro to stick the sensor here. I suggest using velcro so that you can easily remove and reattach the sensor when making sensitivity adjustments.
9. I snapped the center console insert back in place to make sure that it fits. You can see the LED lights of the sensor through the hole where the center console door latches to.
With the sensor in place, now it's time to wire it into the OEM alarm system.
There are four wires in the wiring harness that comes with the sensor.
Red: (+)12V constant fused
Black: (-) chassis ground
Green: (-) First-stage Warn-Away output
Blue: (-) Second-stage trigger output
I'm not using the green wire for the first stage warning. Only the second stage trigger is used. To trigger the alarm from the motion sensor, I tapped into the wire that triggers the OEM alarm system when the tail gate is opened. For constant power, I tapped into the wires connected to the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. Since the motion sensor doesn't require much current, I don't think I have to worry about overloading this circuit.
10. I ran three wires along the passenger side of the center console to my motion sensor. I would have wanted to use a blue wire instead of the green one, but the electronics store I went to didn't have blue in stock. I zip-tied the three wires together about every 12" just to keep it neat, then wrapped them in split loom tubing.
11. I snipped off about a foot length of the wires on the DEI 508D wiring harness, and soldered the wiring harness wires to the wires that I ran along the right side of the center console. Only a few inches of the wiring harness wires is really needed, but I wanted to have extra length in case I screwed up and needed to redo any soldering. Again, I'm not using the green wire from the sensor's wiring harness. The solder points were covered with heatshrink tubing. I also covered up the end of the unused green wire with heatshrink tubing. The DEI 508D wiring harness may also be long enough to reach all the way to the front console, so you might want to do that instead of running your own wires along the center console as I did.
12. I bundled up and zip-tied the extra wire, then connected the wiring harness to the sensor.
Now that the motion sensor is wired in, we need to connect the other ends of those wires. The red and black wires will tap into the constant power outlet on the bottom right of the front console. The front console will need to be pulled apart in order to gain access to the wires that we'll be tapping into.
13. Remove the bottom panel of the front console. Start by using a small pry bar, chisel or putty knike, and pry away the top edge of this bottom panel. There are two snaps on the top edge to pop out. Once these two snaps are popped out, you can lift the panel off.
14. With the bottom panel of the front console removed, you can now access the two bottom screws holding the front console main panel in place. Use a 7mm socket and a 6" socket extension to remove these screws.
15. With the bottom screws removed, carefully pull away the front console panel starting from the bottom. There are three or four snaps on both sides to pop out.
16. I tapped into the red and black wires that provide constant power to the power outlet on the bottom right of the front panel.
17. Unplug the wiring harness connected to the back of the power outlet. Press in the bottom of the black connector, and pull it away from the grey connector. Tap into these two red and black wires, and connect to the red and black wires from the sensor via the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
18. The blue trigger wire from the motion sensor will be connected to the wire that triggers the tail gate opening, which can be found to the right of where the front passenger's right foot would be. To orient yourself with this picture, behind the bunch of black-with-white-stripe wires at the top-right, is the connector where the passenger side door wiring harness would plug into. In my JK, the tail gate trigger wire is the purple wire that I separated out from the big bunch of various-colored wires. Your tail gate trigger wire may be a different color. Pop open the small plastic panal in your tail gate and inspect the wires back there to help you identify what color your tail gate trigger wire is. Tap into this tail gate trigger wire, and connect back to the blue wire on the motion sensor wiring harness via the the wires that were run along the right side of the center console.
19. Reassemble the front (not center) console panels.
20. Now it's time to calibrate the motion sensor. Snap the center console insert back into place, place the center console rear panel back in place, and put the center console door back on top of the center console insert, but NO NOT REPLACE ANY OF THE CENTER CONSOLE SCREWS YET.
21. Arm your alarm system, wait for the red blinking light on the dashboard to change from fast blinking to slow blinking (I think this takes about 15 seconds), then wait another 4 seconds, and test the motion sensor by slowly approaching then entering your Jeep until the alarm is triggered.
22. Remove the center console insert again, and using a mini flathead screw driver, adjust the motion sensor's sensitivity accordingly. Only adjust the left adjustment screw, as shown in the picture. Turning clockwise increases sensitivity.
Repeat from Step 20 until you're satisfied with the sensor's sensitivity. Be sure that the motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted just right before putting the center console all back together and replacing all the screws, because it's a big time-consuming hassle to disassemble and reassemble the center console again later to make further sensitivity adjustments.
23. Once your motion sensor's sensitivity is adjusted, put the center console back together fully and replace all the screws.
Note: The above steps were my initial installation of this sensor, however after taking the Jeep for a little spin, I found a significant problem with this setup. Since the sensor's trigger taps into the tail gate's trigger, as you're driving around and someone inside the Jeep moves around, the dashboard will say "gate", as though the tail gate has opened, and you may hear a beep. In addition, the dome light will also come on. To deal with this, I installed a 5-pin relay that will supply power to the sensor only when the ignition is off. That's enough to take care of the problem, but I also installed a switch inside the center console to quickly and easily enable or disable the sensor at will, particularly in the winter when the hard top and doors are back on. Here's how I did it.
24. I wired the manual sensor disable switch inline with the power source to the motion sensor, and mounted the switch inside the center console. This is a simple, small SPST switch that was labeled as an "alarm switch", and cost $1.20. I feel this switch is nice to have, but optional.
25. I bought a 12V 5-Pin Automotive Relay for $3.95, and female blade connectors to connect to four of the pins. I mounted the relay on the inside of the passenger-side center console panel below where you see my wires coming out in the picture for Step 11. Sorry, I didn't take a picture of where I mounted it, because I was running out of daylight and wanted to get done.
26. I ran a white wire along side the previous three, to power my relay coil from the ignition-on power outlet at the bottom left of the front console. See Steps 13-15 for how to access the wiring behind the front console.
Below is a wiring diagram showing how I connected everything together.
That's it! Now you can have a little more peace of mind when leaving your topless doorless Jeep unattended.
^^^ Just, WOW! Ingenious!
Great post btw!
Great write up thanks!!:punk:
Wow, a standing ovation. I guess for an encore, here's another one of my write-ups for you topless/doorless fanatics.
WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater Installation
Excellent stuff - been looking for something like this myself.
Does anyone have any ideas on hooking up the green wire for the second zone?
Hmmm... Further investigation has revealed whilst we get bigger front brakes, we got no alarm...!
So no stock alarm to fit this to so now on the hunt for a decent alarm to start with!
2012 JK dual 508d sensor + horn relay + power only on lock/unlock diagram.
Cudos and mega thanks to Yomondo and all those who have done the majority of the work on this modification. business.
I humbly submit my plans here for what I hope is a successful implementation of the warning beep along with the full scale alarm.
I am most of the way through this, I have to order the "two coil latching relay "(a.k.a DPST-NO/NC) from the internet to complete the power enable/disable portion and complete the second stage wiring and placement, but Ill keep you posted.
The colors on the graphic represent the 2012 jeep wire colors I saw. Your results may vary depending on year or model.
In my first run, I failed to notice that the warning wire from the 508d is a negative voltage.:doh: Needless to say, another 508D and I'm back in
If I have time, Ill look into adding a siren instead of the horn and a motion sensor too!
I welcome comments and while I am new to the forum, I've owned several Jeeps over the years.
Lol looks intense. I will stick with getting the viper installed. I know I won't have the patience for something like this! Great write up!
Oh and welcome to the forum BTW.
Thanks to you guys for the write up and schematics. where are the best places to mount the sensors for a 4-door to get the best coverage?
this would also work with DEI's 504D Shock Sensor. Same concept of dual zones. One zone is a light trigger or warn away, and second zone is a full pulse.
Talk about a value added first post, welcome :thumb:
Wrangler JK 4 door Factory Alarm modification design update.
Thanks for the warm welcome. Ill update that profile as soon as I wrap up this project and get some photos taken. It is nice to contribute to the forum as I am sure I will take much more away than I'll ever be able to give back. Technology is my forte' so I'll need all your help with mechanics later
SO... I spent several days trying to purchase a 2 coil latching relay.
The only place I found them only sold them in lots of 1000 for only $5.00 each!!! LOL that's one expensive Alarm system, I think I could buy a big F Dog and feed him for a lifetime for that price!
Then I visited the good guys over at the12volt.com ( if you have 12 volt questions for alarms and such, check this resource out...
Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference)
There I found a schematic for creating the exact power on lock, disable on unlock scheme I was looking for.
This project has taken me a lot of time becuase I tried so many options along the way.
I am pleased to report,
I have succesfully wired up the horn relay and knowing that the warning signal is a Negative Voltage makes this an easy add on.
I ran the wire from the hazzards Flasher for my constant power inside the cab, and I chose the front power outlet for my ingition on power source. In the 2012 there are only three screws that hold the dash together. one is in under the rubber insert int he trya above the radio. The other two are on the drivers side below the steering wheel panel that you will ahve to remove first. This will give you unfettered access to the area around the radio.
I grounded to the ground straps on the right side fender wall on the passengers kick panel.
A word of caution before I continue. The passenger side wiring harness sits on top of a thin black cable that runs the length of the vehicle. I believe this is is part of the side impact SRS, so don't zip tie wires to it or otherwise inhibit or restrict it's normal operation.
I wired my first sensor to the underside of my center cosole lid with the top facing DOWN ( metal backing of the 508D is skyward held in place with strong velcro and pressure from the inside of the console lid. I was able to run the wire behind the hinge and it is impossible to tell it is there after a little 1/16th inch deep trimming to the ribs to avoid pinching the 508D flat wires) I ran the 508D wire harness to the passengers kick panel where I performed all wiring and joining.
I put my second sensor in the Roll Bar behind the rear seat. I did this by unzippering the drivers side back part of the rear roll bar cover. I Removed the hard foam which is conneceted by one plastic trim retainer, and carefully trimming the size and shape of the 508D sensor to fit snugly from the back side of the foam towards the front so the tabs on the 508D help to hold it in place.
This foam is fragile like florists foam so be careful and go slow and use a razor blade or exacto knife. I ran the wires back to the passenger side, down the roll bar to the mount, under the plastic mount to the wall, and along the wall to the post between the doors. At this point I went below the seatbelt mechanism to avoid interfering with its normal operation. I then terminated the wires near the front passenger seat where I made my connections.
This rear sensor is slightly off center but acceptable since it broadens my desired coverage and I can turn the sensors down to cut down false positives. It is a PITA to adjust in this location but I really did not see any other place to put a second sensor. I did it at night so I could see the lights go green / red as I moved and I wire tied the roll bar cover out of the way a bit while I worked.
I ran the horn wire through the drain plug below front passenger seat and mounted the relay to the hood ground strap bolt and encased all the wires in a flex tube. I thin ran a second wire across the firewall to the drivers side, up the fender well to teh horn where I used a blade splce and attached to the horn wire. During the testing and adjustment phase, I suggest you leave the horn side wire off at the relay and just listen for the relay clicks. Your neighbors will thank you!!!! you don't realize it, but 1/2 second is a long beep. I'd like to find an alarm chirp siren instead.
You might be wondering why I decided to leave in the ignition on disable relay. The last thing the jeep does as you start to drive is lock all the doors. The relays would interpret this as an arm scenario and power on the sensors. you may get some people telling you your number one as you drive by honking at them.
This new schematic made a lot more sense to me, and it only cost about $25 in relays + shop supplies such as wire and connectors, flux, solder, etc.
If this is still too much wiring for you consider this, I was working on another schematic where I tried to use the DEI 611T latching relay plus two diodes to control power to the 508D. I didn't use (or finish) this method because it alternates power states with each press of unlock or lock so you wont ever really know if its powered up until the horn honks it's dissaproving violation.
Using the method in the schematic I posted here; no matter how many times you press unlock, the power stays off until you hit lock on your keyfob, but only if the ignition is off. This is the only solution that I have come across that fully emulates an aftermarket alarm using the built in factory alarm as the base. I plan to extend this support one more step in the future by adding a shock sensor to the mix.
so, until next time,
keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down
P.S. My dealer installed remote start feature came with a hood pin. I tested this today and I found it WAS connected into the factory alarm. I had seen some posts questioning this and others reported findings that were contrary to this so your results may vary but If you have a hood pin and the factory alarm, you may want to check it out to see if you need to add something.
Great write up thanks
Just curious if anyone knows or has a picture of the radar field. I read on one site that it is a figure 8 pattern. Does anyone know if it is a fairly flat field, more of a dome shape or is it more like having two balloons tied together? I am just curious so that i can figure out if i want to go with the suggested locations or come up with some place a little different.
Final Schematic and some photos
Sorry, I had to pull the schematic off line when I found an error yesterday.
This is my as-built drawing.
Best place is where you are willing to put it
Get creative, I almost pulled the sound bar out to see if I could mount it inside!
but generally, I think these are about the best places in a 4 Door.
1. In the dash facing rearward
2. In the console
Lid face up (better choice if only using one sensor -hard to adjust)
Lid face Down (less false alarms restricts coverage -easy to adjust)
Under rear of Console facing up. (blocked front seat coverage)
Front of Console facing forward (limited back seat coverage)
3. In the rear roll bar
Has good coverage, not centerline, lacks front coverage
4. under rear seats facing up.
5 Mounted to tailgate facing forward
Good luck and let us know what you did.
I was thinking of pulling the light out of the sound bar and seeing if it would fit in there just to the pass side of the light. Maybe doing the second one on the rear roll bar on driver side of light. I was going to cut some string, pin in location of mod and estimating what the coverage would be. From there maybe trying different locations.
Thanks for the responses.
It does work as expected. I found it works better if you set up the KeyFob to Unlock all doors on first press.
I want a way to verify the power to the devices without setting them off. My wife wants to hear the warning beep each time to make sure it is armed. So, I'm thinking of adding an LED to the power on the rear unit. Maybe have it visible in the rear roll bar light?
I will also be adding an alarm siren for the warning and the DEI 504D Shock Sensor.
I DID find a 2 coil latching relay that I plan to test and I will post information on both Where to get one and what to do with it after testing is complete.
re:Private request for a better Schematic
Thanks for the request mijku,
I printed it to PDF which should be easier for everyone to get a good view and print from. Visio does not print a good JPG.
let me know if there is anything else I can do for you!
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