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-   -   4.0 Engine Rebuild price (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/4-0-engine-rebuild-price-119597.html)

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 08:11 AM

4.0 Engine Rebuild price
 
coyoteenginerebuilders.com/Cached quoted me $2600 for a complete overhaul of my engine. They will come get my jeep, tow it to their shop (engine still in it, remove the engine) and do the following-

All cast iron components are magnaflux to guarantee integrity. Engine blocks are precision bored, decked and honed to the specified RMS. Crankshafts are ground and polished to an 8-12 RMS finish. Valve seats are precision cut to three angles, and heads are resurfaced and vacuum tested.
  • New Pistons
  • New Rings
  • New Timing Components
  • New Freeze Plugs
  • New Installer Gasket Set
  • New Main Bearings
  • New Rod Bearings
  • New Cam Bearings
  • New or Reground Cam Shaft
  • New Push Rods
  • New Hydraulic Lifters
  • New Oil Pump
  • Remachined Block, Crank Shaft, Connecting Rods and Cylinder Heads
What do yall think?

meyers 10-26-2011 08:15 AM

What kind of warranty are they giving and does the warranty include labor if they need to repair or replace something?

uf20wop 10-26-2011 08:26 AM

you can get a golen stroker motor for like $3500

270 hp/320 ft lbs and a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty

:p

UnlimitedLJ04 10-26-2011 08:28 AM

see if they can do a long rod stroker with a new 4.2L YJ Clevite brand crank & Keith Black pistons for the same price, or similar price. basically the same amount of work

Tonycrd 10-26-2011 09:39 AM

Have you thought about taking the head off your engine to see if it is really necesary to rebuild the whole thing?

A 4.0 does not have 'heads' btw.

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meyers (Post 1692506)
What kind of warranty are they giving and does the warranty include labor if they need to repair or replace something?

12 months unlimited miles... kind of lame

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonycrd (Post 1692690)
Have you thought about taking the head off your engine to see if it is really necesary to rebuild the whole thing?

A 4.0 does not have 'heads' btw.


I have thought about it but I really am a little apprehensive because this would be my first time to do something of this mechanical level.

oilwell1415 10-26-2011 11:20 AM

That price is good.....too good. By the time they get done with the labor to R&I the engine they aren't leaving nearly enough there to rebuild the engine using good quality parts and good machine work. I would be very skeptical of what you will get from them. I'm also curious why they are replacing pushrods on a stock rebuild. They don't go bad unless you run them dry or bend them.

Look into a Jasper longblock. They offer a very good warranty (3yr/100k mile IIRC) and your Jeep will only be down for a few days instead of a few weeks. There are also lots of other companies out there that sell similar engines that you can check into.

Ibuildembig 10-26-2011 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 (Post 1692529)
see if they can do a long rod stroker with a new 4.2L YJ Clevite brand crank & Keith Black pistons for the same price, or similar price. basically the same amount of work

Eeeek Keith Black

Tonycrd 10-26-2011 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itsfun00 (Post 1692878)
I have thought about it but I really am a little apprehensive because this would be my first time to do something of this mechanical level.

Time to learn!....and it's already broken so there's little harm you can do.

Take of the rocker cover, that's a good start, then you can see what else you have to take out.

Due to not having a OHC (overhead camshaft) taking the head off is pretty easy, no worries about engine timing/ chains or belts etc. Here are some pics of mine. ( it's a 4banger, but basicaly the engines are the same except you have 2 cylinders more :))

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonycrd (Post 1684583)

Engineblock

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/919...2019931042.jpg


Here's a pic of the head

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7...2420191042.jpg

New gasket

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/7...6820301042.jpg

And the head back in place

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2...8420591042.jpg

Keep the rockers and pushrods in a box like this, then you will place them back where they came from.

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6...0420391042.jpg


tailhole 10-26-2011 01:20 PM

I do them for 1300 with one year warranty.

tailhole 10-26-2011 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ibuildembig (Post 1692947)
Eeeek Keith Black

There a forged piston, not that cast crap.
pretty nice piston

Tonycrd 10-26-2011 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailhole (Post 1693274)
I do them for 1300

How?

Ibuildembig 10-26-2011 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailhole (Post 1693290)
There a forged piston, not that cast crap.
pretty nice piston

Is that right? Well thats better I guess.....I won't run anything with his name on it, but thats just me :)

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itsfun00 (Post 1692873)
12 months unlimited miles... kind of lame

OOPS messed up, Its 3 yr 50k miles (got confused between all the places I called)

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonycrd (Post 1693012)
Time to learn!....and it's already broken so there's little harm you can do.

Take of the rocker cover, that's a good start, then you can see what else you have to take out.

Due to not having a OHC (overhead camshaft) taking the head off is pretty easy, no worries about engine timing/ chains or belts etc. Here are some pics of mine. ( it's a 4banger, but basicaly the engines are the same except you have 2 cylinders more :))


So true, so true... I can't screw it up to badly.... Then once its out I just have to take it and get it planed.
I need to get the FSM for mine so I can get the torque specks and all.

bardb 10-26-2011 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonycrd (Post 1692690)
Have you thought about taking the head off your engine to see if it is really necesary to rebuild the whole thing?

A 4.0 does not have 'heads' btw.


The previous owner overheated it and kept driving. He knows the coolant is mixing with the oil and has no way of knowing how long it's been sitting with coolant in places that only oil should be. I would go deeper than just pulling the head, but maybe I'm over reacting.

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 02:47 PM

I'm just worried that when I open it up, repair the gasket, have the head planed and put it back together..... that there will be something else I didn't see that needed to be replaced and I will not have recognized it and have to do it all over again.

Is there any need to (since I will already have it off) do any other work on the cylinder head? or pull the block? How would I know there is other stuff to be done other than if a piston is cracked or really messed up looking? or a rod is bent.

Tonycrd 10-26-2011 06:09 PM

Ok people, relax. A cylinderblock can take a beating. If Itsfun00 doesn't find a melted piston or a badly scraped cylinder sleeve he can be pretty sure there is no other damage done from overheating. My 2.5 has been used repeatedly by the girl that owned it before me with a broken waterpump that leaked a gallon of water in a minute. ('but I always put in some water befor I drove it' yeah, like that helped...)

IIRC from the other thread the engine runs without any funny sounds so it has no bent rods or rod bearings. The clicking nose Itsfun00 heard was probably a lifter that had some sludge in it.

I say try it. You got nothing to loose. Have the head checked and planed if necesary, change the gasket and the engine oil/filter and run it. Any left coolant in the block will evaporate when the oiltemperature goes above 140F. Doesn't cost you $2500 (more like $250 if you do the work) and if it runs fine you can be proud of yourself for a job well done. If it throws a rod bearing 2 years from now...you still win imo.

Itsfun00, you can find the FSM online here: Jeep Knowledge Base

It took me 2 hours to get the head off, TJ's are easy to work on.:thumb:

When you have the head off post some pics of the block and the head and we will look at it and tell you if there is anything fishy there, ok?

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 06:42 PM

Thank you. I think I am going to attempt it... I will post tons of pics.

I'm going to AutoZone after work for the Gasket kit, head bolts, belt (its pretty dry rotted), and the Autolite APP985's. I believe I am taking a vacation day on Friday...lol

Tonycrd 10-26-2011 06:50 PM

Good for you! Lets do this :dance:

When you go to Autozone, make sure you have a fitting socket for the head bolts. Or buy one while you are there. Mine have funny 12 sided boltheads.

tailhole 10-26-2011 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ibuildembig (Post 1693432)
Is that right? Well thats better I guess.....I won't run anything with his name on it, but thats just me :)

They call there forge piston (icon). I've used them a few times with no problems. Plus they got the only shelf piston for the stroker builds at a fair price.

Stay far away from that KB piston. I've had nothing put problems with them

tailhole 10-26-2011 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonycrd (Post 1693316)
How?

Well. I don't see how other shops charge the prices they do. I wish i could.

I've doing it for 22 years now. and stay like a month behind. I build what you bring. dont mess with the swap out stuff, you know i give you a rebuilt motor and you give me a buildable core.

I still build 350 chevys for 950-1150 depending on year.

All the parts for the 4.0 is around 700.

one of the easiest motors to build.

To give ya a idea.
I bore and hone for 12 dollars a hole = 72
deck for 40 a side,
surface head 35
stock valve job 85
grind crank 65
rework rods 8 a piece = 48
install cam bearing and freeze plugs 25
you get the idea

tailhole 10-26-2011 08:39 PM

One thing over looked when a motor is ran hot (other than the obvious).
Rings lose tension.

UnlimitedLJ04 10-26-2011 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailhole (Post 1694500)
Plus they got the only shelf piston for the stroker builds at a fair price.

Stay far away from that KB piston. I've had nothing put problems with them

yup IC944-060 was what I was thinking of. Only off-the-shelf option besides Hesco for a long rod stroker.

ICON Performance Pistons IC944-060 - ICON Premium Forged Pistons - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Deck the block a fuzz, use a stock head gasket, new Clevite 4.2L YJ crank and 4.0L rods, and you've got 9.3-9.6:1 compression ratio depending how much you deck the block. Gives a quench height damn close to stock. Those are the pistons I'll probably use when I stroker my 4.0L.

tailhole 10-26-2011 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 (Post 1694619)
yup IC944-060 was what I was thinking of. Only off-the-shelf option besides Hesco for a long rod stroker.

ICON Performance Pistons IC944-060 - ICON Premium Forged Pistons - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Deck the block a fuzz, use a stock head gasket, new Clevite 4.2L YJ crank and 4.0L rods, and you've got 9.3-9.6:1 compression ratio depending how much you deck the block. Gives a quench height damn close to stock. Those are the pistons I'll probably use when I stroker my 4.0L.

Yep. my thoughts exactly.

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailhole (Post 1694615)
One thing over looked when a motor is ran hot (other than the obvious).
Rings lose tension.

I will do a compression test when I get it put back together... If it runs...lol

I dont know of anything I can do right now to check.

Itsfun00 10-26-2011 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailhole (Post 1694594)
Well. I don't see how other shops charge the prices they do. I wish i could.

I've doing it for 22 years now. and stay like a month behind. I build what you bring. dont mess with the swap out stuff, you know i give you a rebuilt motor and you give me a buildable core.

I still build 350 chevys for 950-1150 depending on year.

All the parts for the 4.0 is around 700.

one of the easiest motors to build.

To give ya a idea.
I bore and hone for 12 dollars a hole = 72
deck for 40 a side,
surface head 35
stock valve job 85
grind crank 65
rework rods 8 a piece = 48
install cam bearing and freeze plugs 25
you get the idea


Any chance your moving your shop to Dallas? Say in the next few days?:D

tailhole 10-26-2011 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itsfun00 (Post 1694753)
I will do a compression test when I get it put back together... If it runs...lol

I dont know of anything I can do right now to check.

Its not that bad, really. Just keep it clean. torque the head bolts to 110 the bolt in the front driver side you'll need to put a little thread sealer, it goes into water, and torque it to 100.

make sure the push rods are in the lifter, its to get them off, torque rockers to 25. Make sure when your tightening the rockers the rocker doesnt turn with ya

tailhole 10-26-2011 09:57 PM

It happens a lot.
Guy brings in head wanting it pressure tested and surfaced, cus its ran hot,
Gets it back together and now it smokes.


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