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-   -   wiring--add lights (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/wiring-add-lights-122447.html)

45 RPM-ACP 11-12-2011 07:58 PM

wiring--add lights
 
Hi...Installing additional driving light 2011, JKU 4dr Sport
Looked in fuse box BUT couldn"t find a spare jack that was power only on acc.
Looking for a relay control hot tap that goes dead with the key turned off...i.e. Acc. Help

Ran into deer @ 60+MPH on free way...Headlights didn't get the job done. Pleasantly surprised how little damage, Front bumper cover only, and how well the Jeep handled the running over it with the right front tire, very stable!!!

daggo66 11-12-2011 09:30 PM

Most lights come with a wiring kit that includes a relay. connect that relay directly to the battery. There is no need to connect anything to the fuse box.

cavsvet74 11-12-2011 10:16 PM

The power outlet/cigarette lighter is switched with the ignition. Try tapping that.

mikekeeper 11-12-2011 10:18 PM

I power all of my light switches from acc fuse. On the 2012 in the M8 - M11 area there are usually some empty slots run off the acc - unless you have all the options on your Jeep.

jmb6420 11-12-2011 10:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Get a fuse tap and do as mikekeeper said. If you don't have ALL the options, there are empty slots for seat heaters, etc. Just find something you don't have on your jeep that is switched.

SeaComms 11-12-2011 10:53 PM

Additional lighting is as mentioned before usually powered directly from the battery through a relay operated from the high beam circuit. If not overly electrically knowledgeable, there are aftermarket wiring kits available that simply plug in. You remove the plug on the back of the headlight and plug the new loom onto it, then the original plug connects to a socket on the new wiring kit.

Very simple!

45 RPM-ACP 11-12-2011 11:00 PM

This guy's....fuse tape it shall be

Chrispy 11-13-2011 06:37 AM

SeaComms, do you have a source, or a name for the aftermarket kit? Thanks

Benjy 11-13-2011 06:46 AM

Glad you didn't get much damage from the deer.

Just started this myself yesterday. Got a painless wiring kit installed, but the A-Pillar switch pod from Rugged Ridge was for 2007 - 2010, the 2011 has a different dash and color (gray not black) so I picked up some simple rocker switches and I'll install myself above the mirror. I'd already bought the supplies to do it all myself, otherwise I might have invested in a SPOD, 4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System.

PM me if you'd like pictures of what I've done to get my lights going. Should have the lights installed by the end of the day. I spent more freaking time trying to route the wiring through the same path that I took for the CB wiring. Should have just pulled the CB wiring out and tapped the painless fuse box for CB power.

jmb6420 11-13-2011 12:03 PM

I should have stated above that the fusetap is used to power the switch only, you still need to run a power wire to a relay to power the lights.

daggo66 11-13-2011 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrispy (Post 1741026)
SeaComms, do you have a source, or a name for the aftermarket kit? Thanks

Painless wiring harnesses. Any decent light kit should come with a wiring harness and relay.

Chrispy 11-13-2011 01:41 PM

Yea my Hellas came with the wiring harness and relay, I was looking into the plug for the head light high beam tap, don't like the idea of cutting the factory wires.

From Sea Comms:
"You remove the plug on the back of the headlight and plug the new loom onto it, then the original plug connects to a socket on the new wiring kit."

kbwwolf 11-13-2011 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 45 RPM-ACP (Post 1740466)
Pleasantly surprised how little damage, Front bumper cover only, and how well the Jeep handled the running over it with the right front tire, very stable!!!

Best review of mowing down a critter I've ever heard. :thumb:

MD_Jeep 11-19-2011 09:37 AM

Where did you guys run your wires through the firewall? I don't see any openings under the drivers side dash.

krutj 11-19-2011 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MD_Jeep (Post 1756518)
Where did you guys run your wires through the firewall? I don't see any openings under the drivers side dash.

Open the hood, drivers side, above the master cylinder and right below the large wiring loom...there's a rubber plug, make a hole and push the wires through.

MD_Jeep 11-19-2011 10:55 AM

Found it, thanks.

robtbritn 11-19-2011 11:07 AM

Here's a simple diagram on how to wire fog lights using a Bosh Relay...I would use a 30 amp relay.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm

Paintslinger16 11-22-2011 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krutj

Open the hood, drivers side, above the master cylinder and right below the large wiring loom...there's a rubber plug, make a hole and push the wires through.

Awesome jumped on here just to find this info. My kit did not come with a relay though. What's it do?

cu in oz 11-22-2011 05:44 PM

I have mine wired directly to the battery using an inline fuse. I wanted the light to work without the key 'on'. I'm new at this but is there a downside to this way?

I have a relay with the wiring kit but figured a 20A inline would protect the expensive stuff ok.......I trust this is a safe option.

willee51 11-22-2011 06:00 PM

YOu will not believe this.........
 
Called my 4x4 shop to get a quote on installing "rear" lights as the stock backup lightes suck!

1. They quoted 2 - 3 hrs labor at $60 per hour :banghead:

I will learn to do this MYSELF :thumb: and save $120- $180 :Thanx:

jmb6420 11-22-2011 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cu in oz (Post 1764986)
I have mine wired directly to the battery using an inline fuse. I wanted the light to work without the key 'on'. I'm new at this but is there a downside to this way?

I have a relay with the wiring kit but figured a 20A inline would protect the expensive stuff ok.......I trust this is a safe option.

The only problems are...
1. If not using a relay, the same amps that your lights pull is also going through your switch, which will shorten it's life and possibly cause a short unless it's rated for those amps.

2. Another purpose for a relay is to keep the 'high amp' connections under the hood and out of the cab. A trigger wire to the switch is of much lower amperage. If there is a short, you don't want it inside the cab.

robtbritn 11-22-2011 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmb6420 (Post 1765427)
The only problems are...
1. If not using a relay, the same amps that your lights pull is also going through your switch, which will shorten it's life and possibly cause a short unless it's rated for those amps.

2. Another purpose for a relay is to keep the 'high amp' connections under the hood and out of the cab. A trigger wire to the switch is of much lower amperage. If there is a short, you don't want it inside the cab.

And I would add that with all the power going through the switch it will reduce voltage going to the lights...resulting in dimmer lights.

saharaguy 11-23-2011 02:44 AM

OK...a couple of questions and a switch location solution...

I plan to install some auxilliary LED lighting both inside the Jeep and outside. They take VERY low current...so, I plan to run the wires directly from switches wired into the dash accessory outlet (which is switched to the ignition switch, so it doesn't stay on after the key is removed)...

So...running wire is not a problem, especially for low-current LEDs...but, where to put the switches???

Here's the big question...There are some 'dummy' plugs on the lower bar of switches on the dash (where the Rubicon has the sway bar disconnect button etc)...there's at least 3 spare spots...on my Sahara...
So...anybody ever tried to get factory push switches to install in the dummy plug spots for auxilliary equipment?...(I presume they are MOPAR parts...)

Here's another question...I'm not particulary enthusiastic about the DRIVING LIGHTS being switched by PULLING out the end of the light stalk...doesn't seem too durable (or intuitive!) to me :nonono: ...I'm thinking of putting a proper switch in one of those 'dummy' plugs...and run it into the stock relay...just gotta find the RIGHT WIRE in the maze of wires coming from the 'multi-purpose' stalk!!!

If you ask me...it would have made more sense to spread the functions of stuff like the driving lights out...onto separate dash switches...Comments???

Comments written in previous post regarding the stock backup lights being rather DIM...so true...I'm going to put auxilliary LED backup lights in series with the stock lamps...I don't think any replacement lamp in the stock light fixture would make much of a difference...

Saharaguy

cu in oz 11-23-2011 06:53 AM

My switches are rated at 20 AMPS. I hope this is ok. I'll see about a better way to wire. I just wanted to get it doen yesterday quickly. Buyt 20 AMP (I would think) should be ok........thoughts?

krutj 11-23-2011 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willee51 (Post 1765041)
Called my 4x4 shop to get a quote on installing "rear" lights as the stock backup lightes suck!

1. They quoted 2 - 3 hrs labor at $60 per hour :banghead:

I will learn to do this MYSELF :thumb: and save $120- $180 :Thanx:

Here's what I did willee51....maybe $40 in material..

Recessed rear bumper light install - JeepForum.com

45 RPM-ACP 11-23-2011 03:57 PM

Is the bumper cover, held on with the same,..."push screws" type fasteners as the front bumper cover?

krutj 11-23-2011 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 45 RPM-ACP (Post 1767322)
Is the bumper cover, held on with the same,..."push screws" type fasteners as the front bumper cover?

The bumper skins have brass inserts and bolts, accessed from the backside.

A total of 4 if I remember correctly....

JIMBOX 11-23-2011 04:07 PM

:whistling: Spend some money, getta foolproof/failproof/trouble free sPOD system-

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...12-2010076.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...12-2010078.jpg

Wanna save money, doit yourself, wanna stick switchs all over your dash ?

Although I've seen some pretty good "A" frame pods--

Good luck

:dance::rofl: JIMBO

robtbritn 11-23-2011 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cu in oz (Post 1766233)
My switches are rated at 20 AMPS. I hope this is ok. I'll see about a better way to wire. I just wanted to get it doen yesterday quickly. Buyt 20 AMP (I would think) should be ok........thoughts?

Its not a matter of what your switch is rated at...there is a reason that they provide a relay with aftermarket fog lights, refer to post 21 & 22. :)

krutj 11-23-2011 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robtbritn (Post 1767368)
Its not a matter of what your switch is rated at...there is a reason that they provide a relay with aftermarket fog lights, refer to post 21 & 22. :)

X-2....direct wiring is a bad idea


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