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alpo96792 03-06-2012 12:24 PM

88 clutch problem
hey jeepers,
so i picked up this 88 yj a few weeks ago and its been great. new to the whole jeep thing but loving it. anyways, the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is constantly but slowly going down. the master cylinder is new so i am assuming that is not causing the leak. i followed the lines and could not find any leak nor was there any DOT fluid going in the cab (hopefully this cancels out the possibility of a bad master). last night i placed a board under the jeep to find exactly where this damn leak is coming from. i am assuming that the slave cylinder is leaking because the leak is occurring at the bell mouth and dripping under the passenger seat. the leak is not too bad, just adding more DOT fluid about every three days. I was wondering how many of you have done this job and how many have brought it to the shop. I'm not completely clueless with mechanical work but I would not call myself completely informed either. If i decide to do it myself, this will be the biggest job I have done and I don't want to make shit worst. How hard is this fix? or for those who brought it to the shop, how much did it set you back? Also, does it sound like it is the slave cylinder that is bad, I don't want to do all this work and find it to be something more simple. Any information would help, thanks.

Timberwolf 03-06-2012 12:37 PM

sounds like the slave, any trouble getting the clutch to disengage?

shop fee will be mostly labor for pulling the trans to get to it

if you have the BA10, you may want to look into an AX15 swap before you have it all apart

alpo96792 03-06-2012 03:05 PM

i'll definitely look into the new trans. i only had a problem engaging and disengaging the clutch on the morning after my wife drove it. Checked the master cylinder and it was bone dry. Since then I been filling it up time to time, no problems if I keep it full though. Any idea what I should pay for a mechanic to pull the trans?

Stleger88 03-06-2012 04:49 PM

Pull it yourself tehre should be only 2 vent lines to the trans, the speedo cable and the clutch line. Once these are off put a jack stand under the rear of the transfercase and take of the giant skid plate. Once that is removed (8 bolts total) take out the 4 bolts on the drive shafts to disconect them from the rear memeber and transfer case. Once you are here probably gonna wanna take a quick breather. Then put another jack stand under the transmission, take off the 6 nuts that hold the trans and transfer case together(and theres a 13mm in the 4x4 shifter) once your here, depending on how physically fit you are either lower the transfer case by hand or put a floor jack under it and lower it down. Move it out of the way and now that you have a nice clear area under the jeep get in the cab and take off the shifter boot and take the 3 10mm bolts off the plate holding the shifter, pull it straight out and then go back under and take off the starter and the bell housing bolts the trans by itself is light and should be able to lower it down by hand, or use a jack if you see fit. The whole process takes a few hours and is faster if you have air tools but it can be done by hand too. I just did this twice once on saturday and once on sunday, probably wanna give yourself about 10 hour window if you've never done it before but it's pretty fun. Just go slow when you are removing and replaceing the trans to the motor cause if you mess up the pilot bearing its a pain in the A$$ to replace it in the vehicle.

alpo96792 03-06-2012 05:24 PM

thanks bro, i guess i'll give it a go once the manual comes in. there is a garage at my school that has all the tools ill need. a few beers and 10 hours sounds like my next saturday. anything else I should keep in mind? i just want to make this go as smoothly as possible and not make things worse. thanks for all the help

tomjeep 03-06-2012 07:12 PM

I'm only 16 and only mechanical experience is on lawnmowers. Taking out the tranny is alot easier than you think. Do it yourself, its worth it.

Stleger88 03-06-2012 09:39 PM

yeah get 1 qt of atf and 3 qts of 75-90w gear oil and change the fluids in the transfer case and trans while you are in there, to do the tranny do it after you put it back in, take out the drain and drain it then put it back in and take out the fill hole then dump it with a funnel in through the shifter whole tell it comes out the fill hole, then close it on up. transfer case is a little different but easy enough. It really isnt to bad and it goes fast, just have the radio playin in the back ground and start turnin wrenchs

alpo96792 03-06-2012 11:54 PM

Stleger88... thanks for all the advice. i appreciate all the input. ill for sure change the fluids when I attack this project. another question, do you prefer Hayes or Chiltons? just wondering, my dad swears by only Chiltons, just trying to get your preference. again, thanks for the advice.

tomjeep..... 16 and dropping a trans already! damn, when i was 16 all I was thinking bout was chicks, chicks, and dropping chicks panties. good for you bro. ill hit this project up this weekend.

Let you all know how it goes. Thanks again everyone

Stleger88 03-07-2012 11:36 AM

Chiltons is very good if you are really going to go in depth, I have a chiltons and haynes they are both good, you can use a haynes and they are more readily available and cheaper.

alpo96792 03-08-2012 03:06 AM

Thanks again Sleger88. I plan to attack this project this weekend. I'll let you all know how it goes. Sorry to be a pain, but one more question. Would you recommend that I change the master cylinder as well? I read some place that if you change the slave cylinder you should also change the master. The master cylinder is pretty new, I think less than a year? What is your thought? Thanks again for all the help

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