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-   -   Teraflex leveling kit (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/teraflex-leveling-kit-159482.html)

Jervboy 05-11-2012 05:47 AM

Teraflex leveling kit
 
I installed this a couple of days ago, I am very happy, looks nice. I noticed that right atfer I installed it the front was pretty high, looks like it came down a bit, settled so to speak. Normal? I'm guessing the springs setted a little bit?? Just curious if anyone else out there has had this situation with any lift for that matter?

8figgas 05-11-2012 05:56 AM

Did you take before/after, pics and measurements?

Jervboy 05-11-2012 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8figgas (Post 2357620)
Did you take before/after, pics and measurements?

Of course not! I forgot because I was all amped up to put the kit on. I do have some pics.

Iamjrad79 05-11-2012 06:20 AM

Interested in seeing the pics as I'll be doing this kit soon

Jervboy 05-11-2012 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iamjrad79 (Post 2357647)
Interested in seeing the pics as I'll be doing this kit soon

Before and after.

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 07:45 AM

You used spacers correct ?

Jervboy 05-11-2012 08:41 AM

Spacers yes. You mean is this tereflex leveling kit a spacer lift? Yes it is, two 1 inch spacers gor the top of each spring on the front and one one inch spacer for each spring in the back, levels out the rake. The pics don't really do it justice, I think it looks better in person. And if your asking about wheel spacers, yes, I also have 1.5 inch spidertrax wheel spacers to broaden the stance.

Jervboy 05-11-2012 08:45 AM

Also, I am noticing the spring on the passenger side front seems to be compressed a little more than the other side. I am not sure but when disconnecting the sway bar on that side and reconnecting it it is a lettle tight. Anyone out there have any issues with these Tereflex swaybar replacements on this kit?? i am wondering if they were slightly different in length. I certainly did not notice and difference and there was no indication of which one to mount on the drivers side versus the passenger side??? Any input out there???

hbgirl 05-11-2012 08:53 AM

Hubby and I are installing this on my Jeep this weekend, as well as replacing the stock bolts. Did you use/need a floor jack to do the install?

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jervboy
Also, I am noticing the spring on the passenger side front seems to be compressed a little more than the other side. I am not sure but when disconnecting the sway bar on that side and reconnecting it it is a lettle tight. Anyone out there have any issues with these Tereflex swaybar replacements on this kit?? i am wondering if they were slightly different in length. I certainly did not notice and difference and there was no indication of which one to mount on the drivers side versus the passenger side??? Any input out there???

Did you loosen all track bar and control arm bolts?

Bushings could bind if you don't set the suspension at the new hight.

The sway bar itself moves so it should not be tight. Plus I'm assuming the kit uses the
stock rears in the front.... Right?

Also keep in mind the front axle shifts slightly to the drivers side when lifting.
Rear to the opposite.

Jervboy 05-11-2012 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hbgirl (Post 2357934)
Hubby and I are installing this on my Jeep this weekend, as well as replacing the stock bolts. Did you use/need a floor jack to do the install?

Yes, floor jack, a good one and a good high set of jack stands are needed. You need to get it pretty high in the air to drop the axel enough to pull the springs off.

Jervboy 05-11-2012 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 2357953)
Did you loosen all track bar and control arm bolts?

Bushings could bind if you don't set the suspension at the new hight.

The sway bar itself moves so it should not be tight. Plus I'm assuming the kit uses the
stock rears in the front.... Right?

Also keep in mind the front axle shifts slightly to the drivers side when lifting.
Rear to the opposite.

I did not loosen the track bar or control arm bolts or set the suspension to the new hight. The directions for this kit were lame. There were a lot of things that needed to be done to install that the directions did not mention like disconnecting the brake line brakets, front and back, loosening the e-brake line on the back from its clips and unclipping the rear wheel sensor wiring. All of these things were stretched out when you dropped the axel to get the springs off, and you had to drop in pretty far. You keep the stock spacers on both the front and the back if that is what you were referring to the "stock rears in the front?"

Jervboy 05-11-2012 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 2357953)
Did you loosen all track bar and control arm bolts?

Bushings could bind if you don't set the suspension at the new hight.

The sway bar itself moves so it should not be tight. Plus I'm assuming the kit uses the
stock rears in the front.... Right?

Also keep in mind the front axle shifts slightly to the drivers side when lifting.
Rear to the opposite.

The one thing I did notice is the drivers side spring is seated differently at the bottom compared to the passenger side. I don't know if this could be the cause? The difference is noticable to me but may not be to most, it is like a quarter of an inch difference in the lift from the passenger side to the drivers, drivers being higher.

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jervboy
I did not loosen the track bar or control arm bolts or set the suspension to the new hight. The directions for this kit were lame. There were a lot of things that needed to be done to install that the directions did not mention like disconnecting the brake line brakets, front and back, loosening the e-brake line on the back from its clips and unclipping the rear wheel sensor wiring. All of these things were stretched out when you dropped the axel to get the springs off, and you had to drop in pretty far. You keep the stock spacers on both the front and the back if that is what you were referring to the "stock rears in the front?"

Referring to the sway bar links.

Jervboy 05-11-2012 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 2358126)
Referring to the sway bar links.

No, you left the rears there and they give you new longer links for the front. I don't think they are the same quality as the stock links but they did come with grease fittings on the lower end, not the ball end (which was confusing) which the stock sway bars had no zerk fittings.

Defiant Systems 05-11-2012 09:49 AM

Had a lot of discussion about this kit before. Some pointers I observed. You definitely have to let both sides of the axle droop fully to get the springs in and out, if you try to do one side at a time you will have one heck of a time! In some cases it will be beneficial to disconnect other things such as brake hoses and the e-brake line as to not cause stress on these components. Also I noticed at the end of the install that one sway bar link (front driver side) was much closer to the spring than the other side. I did some research as to possible causes. On some (not all) models, there are two different spring numbers in the front to compensate for the gas tank. I'm not sure why this is only on some models. However, I found that this was true with my model. So I found a set of stock springs off of Craigslist that had the same number and swapped them out. This corrected the problem on my JK. You can check your spring numbers by the little tag attached to them. (I think I had a 16 and an 18 of I remember right) this can also cause the away bar to be harder to connect on one side. I hope this info helps!

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jervboy
No, you left the rears there and they give you new longer links for the front. I don't think they are the same quality as the stock links but they did come with grease fittings on the lower end, not the ball end (which was confusing) which the stock sway bars had no zerk fittings.

Oh .. Ok

That's a leveling kit so not really a need for
both.
Could always go with some quick disconnects in the front.

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Defiant Systems
Had a lot of discussion about this kit before. Some pointers I observed. You definitely have to let both sides of the axle droop fully to get the springs in and out, if you try to do one side at a time you will have one heck of a time! In some cases it will be beneficial to disconnect other things such as brake hoses and the e-brake line as to not cause stress on these components. Also I noticed at the end of the install that one sway bar link (front driver side) was much closer to the spring than the other side. I did some research as to possible causes. On some (not all) models, there are two different spring numbers in the front to compensate for the gas tank. I'm not sure why this is only on some models. However, I found that this was true with my model. So I found a set of stock springs off of Craigslist that had the same number and swapped them out. This corrected the problem on my JK. You can check your spring numbers by the little tag attached to them. (I think I had a 16 and an 18 of I remember right) this can also cause the away bar to be harder to connect on one side. I hope this info helps!

Slightly more on the drivers side I believe.
Most are 1 number difference. I don't think
that really makes to much of a difference IMO.

Op... 2" is a good amount up front. I would
loosen all the bolts and shake the jeep around. Then tighten to spec.

All TB bolts are 125 ft lbs
All CA bolts are 125 except the front uppers are 75 ft lbs

Jervboy 05-11-2012 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Defiant Systems (Post 2358176)
Had a lot of discussion about this kit before. Some pointers I observed. You definitely have to let both sides of the axle droop fully to get the springs in and out, if you try to do one side at a time you will have one heck of a time! In some cases it will be beneficial to disconnect other things such as brake hoses and the e-brake line as to not cause stress on these components. Also I noticed at the end of the install that one sway bar link (front driver side) was much closer to the spring than the other side. I did some research as to possible causes. On some (not all) models, there are two different spring numbers in the front to compensate for the gas tank. I'm not sure why this is only on some models. However, I found that this was true with my model. So I found a set of stock springs off of Craigslist that had the same number and swapped them out. This corrected the problem on my JK. You can check your spring numbers by the little tag attached to them. (I think I had a 16 and an 18 of I remember right) this can also cause the away bar to be harder to connect on one side. I hope this info helps!

Thanks for the info and I already checked my springs, both 17's. That's the first thing I checked when I noticed something due to the fact that I saw on some other threads that some people had different pring rates from one front to the other?? Very curious?

Jervboy 05-11-2012 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 2358205)
Slightly more on the drivers side I believe.
Most are 1 number difference. I don't think
that really makes to much of a difference IMO.

Op... 2" is a good amount up front. I would
loosen all the bolts and shake the jeep around. Then tighten to spec.

All TB bolts are 125 ft lbs
All CA bolts are 125 except the front uppers are 75 ft lbs

Thanks for that input, I just might do that, I am sure this is going to bother the snot out of me until I figure it out!

kjeeper10 05-11-2012 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jervboy
Thanks for that input, I just might do that, I am sure this is going to bother the snot out of me until I figure it out!

Know the feeling lol

Shaking the jeep when the bolts are loose will help the suspension settle at its new home :)

8figgas 05-12-2012 05:38 AM

And little late now, but a Rubi 18/59 Spring and Shock(brand new takeoffs) swap is ideal when doing the Leveling Kit...

kbwwolf 05-12-2012 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8figgas (Post 2360783)
And little late now, but a Rubi 18/59 Spring and Shock(brand new takeoffs) swap is ideal when doing the Leveling Kit...

19/60's would be better. :thumb:

VaderJK12 05-12-2012 08:34 AM

^^^I have 17/58 and was told the 19/60 was not really needed when I do my leveling kit. Is it worth the swap?

MTH 05-12-2012 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaderJK12
^^^I have 17/58 and was told the 19/60 was not really needed when I do my leveling kit. Is it worth the swap?

No.

KB's right that 19/60s are "better" than another high number like 17/58, but this is like saying its better to have $101 than $100.

All else being equal, you'd rather have $101, but if you have to do anything extra to get that $101 versus the $100, it's probably not worth it.

When I went from 17/58 to 19/60 on my JKU, I got about .75" of extra height. If you're going to spend enough to get the 19/60s and the leveling kit all for just an extra .75" over what you'd get out of the leveling kit, you should've just bought a real coil lift. That's what I did, and I sold my 19/60s.

It's a different story when you've got a 2 door with 14/55s and those 19/60s could get you nearly 2".

JMHO.

Jervboy 05-12-2012 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbwwolf (Post 2360934)
19/60's would be better. :thumb:

Hey KB, what happened? I PM'd you a question about tire prices because I wanted to hear from somebody in the know and you never got back to me???? What up with that? Is it the chrome on my rig?

Iamjrad79 08-07-2012 09:09 AM

I installed my kit last weekend I love the difference! It was a really easy install and I'm really pleased with the results. I've never installed a lift before and it only took me two hours.

jcanup 08-07-2012 02:34 PM

Defiant Sysstems-I have this same issue on mine. Springs are both rated the same (18), but the sway bar on the driver's side is almost touching the coil and the passenger side has about an inch of clearance:confused:. I have already loosened everything and given the entire Jeep a good shake and also have an adjustable track bar on the way. Any other suggestions on what else I might need to do to get the axle centered back underneath?


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