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-   -   2004 Rubicon (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/2004-rubicon-17740.html)

Robb471 04-17-2008 06:49 PM

2004 Rubicon
 
I am new to jeeps and am looking at a 2004 Rubicon. Anything I should look out for, or check, prior to buying? Any options I want to make sure it has?

I am between this, and a 2008 X. Trying to decide which way to go.

Thanks

nregas1 04-17-2008 07:20 PM

Price and miles will help you make your decision. Can't go wrong with a Rubi but the JK's creature comforts are well beyond the TJ - about like the change from YJ to TJ. But that's probably not why most of us like Jeeps. As far as what to look for, same as any other used car - but to attempt to gauge the offroad life the jeep may have had you can check the wire looms under hood for dirt and mud, the dealer never cleans those out - that may give you some indication of the jeeps life. Slide the carpet out from under the console area a little and see if there is much of a difference in the color. Check the front LCA perches and see if they are bent up. Skid plates to some extent but unless it a monster gouge or something you can probably disregard. Basically if under carriage is like new it's a good possibility it was from a soccer mom or somebody on this forum :D.

4point 04-17-2008 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nregas1 (Post 219432)
Price and miles will help you make your decision. Can't go wrong with a Rubi but the JK's creature comforts are well beyond the TJ - about like the change from YJ to TJ. But that's probably not why most of us like Jeeps. As far as what to look for, same as any other used car - but to attempt to gauge the offroad life the jeep may have had you can check the wire looms under hood for dirt and mud, the dealer never cleans those out - that may give you some indication of the jeeps life. Slide the carpet out from under the console area a little and see if there is much of a difference in the color. Check the front LCA perches and see if they are bent up. Skid plates to some extent but unless it a monster gouge or something you can probably disregard. Basically if under carriage is like new it's a good possibility it was from a soccer mom or somebody on this forum :D.

:rofl::punk:

Robb471 04-17-2008 08:39 PM

The 2004 has about 31k. Price difference is about 3-4k between the used Rubicon and the new X.

How would an '04 Rubicon compare to the '08 X as far as off road abilities? Are they both pretty equal as long as its not major rock crawling?

AzTJ 04-17-2008 08:47 PM

The Rubicon has Dana44 axles and lockers while the X wouldn't. :D The Rubicon is a much more capable off-roader.

JCS05Rubi 04-17-2008 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzTJ (Post 219453)
The Rubicon has Dana44 axles and lockers while the X wouldn't. :D The Rubicon is a much more capable off-roader.

and the 2008 x would be a much more capable daily driver :bottom: :blunt:

I have an 05, love it, but its not exactly an 08 X with highway gears driving it around every day, either :) Things to look for? Usual stuff for a used car as mentioned.

These rubicons tend to get axle seal leaks (the D44 are famous for it apparently), the rear main likes to leak between 25-30k. As far as how to tell if it has been wheeled, the wire loom and carpet are good if you don't see any signs of it being wheeled.

checking the skids its obviously the first, but I have scratched mine just driving through a flat field at the farm that I wouldn't hesitate to take a chevy cobalt through. Check the inside of the transfer skid plate for mud, the rubicon transfer case skid is a shovel because the 4:1 transfer case is so huge. The steering box right under the driver side of the front bumper is also one of the first places to get scratched up. Bottom of the differentials, sway bar links, LCA perches, the holes inside the rocker panel get caked with mud. Basically just look for mud in the hidden "nooks and crannies." If it saw rocks, your going to see gouges on metal, period. Mud, you will find dry dirt caked places, period. Speaking of caked mud, the downpipe on the exhaust(pipe between the catylitic converters on the header and the actual catylitic converter) gets caked on mud thats a BIATCH to get off.

To be fairly honest, a wheeled Jeep is not nesessarily a bad choice, as long as it was taken care of. Rubicons aren't meant to be pavement pounders, and most see SOME wheeling, even if its just logging roads. Mine, for instance, is considered a mall crawler, even though it does see some logging roads in WV twice a year. By no means is my Jeep "beat on" like in NM or NV etc., but it still looks like it was "wheeled" in the usual places. Just be smart about what you see. Minor scratches on the skids is not a big deal, but bent brackets for suspension components, or a HUGE dent down the whole side of the Jeep and a bent windshield frame, might mean it MAY be a little bit TOO used for your :zap: Good luck:cool:

Robb471 04-17-2008 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nregas1 (Post 219432)
Price and miles will help you make your decision. Can't go wrong with a Rubi but the JK's creature comforts are well beyond the TJ - about like the change from YJ to TJ.

What's the main difference in "Creature Comforts" between them?

It won't be a daily driver by any means, and will probably see a moderate lift and 33-35" tires at some point. It will be driven around town, shorter trips, pulled behind the RV with the quads to the desert/dunes/Lake Tahoe, and driven in those environments.

Thanks for all the help so far. I do get nervous buying a used car cause you never know what your gonna get. Knowing your brand new vehicle is worth 4-5k less than you paid for it the moment you drive it off the lot, well ,thats just as bad!!

Dare2BSquare 04-17-2008 11:05 PM

Pay mister mechanic to go over it for you. It will be the best money you spend on your rig, as long as you do it BEFORE you sign on the line.

nregas1 04-18-2008 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robb471 (Post 219531)
What's the main difference in "Creature Comforts" between them?

It won't be a daily driver by any means, and will probably see a moderate lift and 33-35" tires at some point. It will be driven around town, shorter trips, pulled behind the RV with the quads to the desert/dunes/Lake Tahoe, and driven in those environments.

Thanks for all the help so far. I do get nervous buying a used car cause you never know what your gonna get. Knowing your brand new vehicle is worth 4-5k less than you paid for it the moment you drive it off the lot, well ,thats just as bad!!

This addresses most of the main differences. However, most of these are just new "available options", and only a few are standard, but fairly nice upgrades. I shopped a few JK's a month ago and I like them just fine, but I personally just didn't value the changes enough to justify the price tag and nothing about it made me want it more than my TJ.

Quote:

Differentiating elements from the previous generation include shorter grille slats, clearly separated fenders, and fog lights incorporated into the front bumper. Jeep says a curved windshield and tighter roof integration help reduce interior noise by 20 percent, which means passengers should be able to actually hear the stereo now.

The Wrangler X uses a standard four-wheel-drive system incorporating a two-speed transfer case for part-time use. Sahara editions add monotube shock absorbers in place of the X's twin-tube setup, and Wrangler Rubicons get a four-wheel-drive transfer case with a 4:1 low-range gear ratio plus heavy-duty Dana 44 axles, each with a locking differential.

Other offroad features include three underbody skid plates, an available tow package with Dana 44 axles for lower trim levels and an available electronically disconnecting front stabilizer bar for increased ground clearance. A longer wheelbase and shorter rear overhang increase the departure angle for the Wrangler Rubicon to 40.6 degrees, which is 6.7 degrees more than the previous generation. Ground clearance and the breakover angle remain about the same, but the approach angle drops slightly due to a longer front overhang.

An available three-panel hardtop has removable sections above the driver, front passenger and rear passengers.

Interior
The interior sports new shapes, though the overall vibe feels as basic as it did in the previous Wrangler. The thin-spoke steering wheel has a circular hub, and a vertical center control panel features a high-mounted radio with circular air vents underneath. Newly available options include power windows and door locks a Wrangler first and an in-dash navigation system.

Total passenger volume measures 102.9 cubic feet in the regular-length Wrangler and 104 cubic feet in the Unlimited. Both figures represent about a 10 percent increase over their predecessors. The rear seats fold, leaving a maximum of 56.5 cubic feet of cargo volume in the regular-length Wrangler and more than 85 cubic feet in the Unlimited. Lockable storage spaces include the center console and a compartment integrated into the rear load floor.

Under the Hood
A 3.8-liter V-6 is the sole drivetrain for the 2007 Wrangler. It produces 202 horsepower and 237 pounds-feet of torque. A six-speed manual transmission is standard across all trim levels, while a four-speed automatic is optional.

Safety
Standard four-wheel-disc brakes with ABS incorporate an offroad feature that allows sustained lockup over loose surfaces. Also standard is an electronic stability system with Chrysler's new rollover mitigation technology, which can pulse individual brakes in an attempt to prevent impending rollovers. Side-impact airbags are optional for the front seats.

bpowa 04-18-2008 04:10 AM

id go for the x.. it has a d44 rear and newer comfortable look.. the only thing I hate is the steering wheel. think about it the interior of the tj barely changed since 1997.. you will have the newer look for a decade to come.

Brewski 04-18-2008 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nregas1 (Post 219432)
LCA perches and see if they are bent up. :D.

i did this to my tj somehow, and have been wondering for some time what an inexpensive fix would be. order them? cut them off and make my own?

nregas1 04-18-2008 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewski (Post 219646)
i did this to my tj somehow, and have been wondering for some time what an inexpensive fix would be. order them? cut them off and make my own?

:hijacked:
but to answer your Q...
when you decide to replace your LCA's, get the perches hammered back into shape and then weld on some skid plates that cover the lower and leading surfaces where the perches are welded to the axle. They are available for purchase but I'd just make some. Then install your new LCA's.

nregas1 04-18-2008 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpowa (Post 219610)
id go for the x.. it has a d44 rear and newer comfortable look.. the only thing I hate is the steering wheel. think about it the interior of the tj barely changed since 1997.. you will have the newer look for a decade to come.

Good point. And if cost isn't a factor, I would agree. If you get all the extra available options, upgrade to D44, lockers, electric discos, etc. Well, your basically building a rubicon. And go for it. But, how much will that X cost after you add all these options that are standard on an 04 Rubi? I bet that price difference b/w the 04/08 doubles.

Brewski 04-18-2008 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nregas1 (Post 219653)
:hijacked:
but to answer your Q...
when you decide to replace your LCA's, get the perches hammered back into shape and then weld on some skid plates that cover the lower and leading surfaces where the perches are welded to the axle. They are available for purchase but I'd just make some. Then install your new LCA's.

sorry to hijack, but should i be taking it easy or something? just curious if i could cause more damage. i dont get to wheel often but when i do i try to push the limits. as im sure everyone does :punk:

nregas1 04-18-2008 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewski (Post 219719)
sorry to hijack, but should i be taking it easy or something? just curious if i could cause more damage. i dont get to wheel often but when i do i try to push the limits. as im sure everyone does :punk:

Nah, if you're not getting negative feedback in the driveability and don't feel like things are too loose, getting a bad vibe/wobble in steering wheel, I wouldn't worry about it until you are in a position to upgrade the CA's and then I'd definitely weld on some skids.


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