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-   -   So I bought a lift..... (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/so-i-bought-a-lift-18049.html)

Ripcord 04-27-2008 06:10 PM

So I bought a lift.....
 
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I finially broke down and purchased a RE 3.5 standard lift and I have a few questions.

1. I have heard that a SYE is not a must. Would it be worth going ahead and purchasing one tho?

2. Do I need longer brake lines or will the factory ones do the trick?

3. What about an adjustable front Sway Bar?

4. Recomendations on shocks?

Never put a lift on before so this will be an interesting project and im really looking forword to it. All help and ideas you can throw at me are more then welcome......lol

I am planning on keeping the 15' rims that are currently on the jeep but Im gonna go to a 33' 12.5 tire. Can someone throw some tire brands out there for me. I wont be doing any crazy mudding or rock climbing "Yet" This will be my DD so I don't want to totally murder my gas milage but I want an agressive looking tire.

Thanks in advance.

Here is a Pic of how she sits now!

richp 04-27-2008 06:15 PM

You might get away without the SYE, maybe, as for adjustable track bars and JKS disconnects, well worth it. I don't like the relocation brackets.

debruins 04-27-2008 06:20 PM

you dont need any of that stuff, but if you have the money they're all good upgrades.

the SYE/CV is pretty expensive and not needed if you dont get vibes with the T-Case drop, however if you do get vibes even with the T-Case drop then you're gonna want to get one,

as for break lines, unless you going serious rock crawling and without the sway bar and rubbing your fenders you shouldn't pop a break line

and as for sway bar disconnects you can make those, and if you meant adjustable track bar, thats not really necessary, but quite nice

G54 04-27-2008 07:14 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripcord (Post 223138)
I am planning on keeping the 15' rims that are currently on the jeep but Im gonna go to a 33' 12.5 tire. Can someone throw some tire brands out there for me. I wont be doing any crazy mudding or rock climbing "Yet" This will be my DD so I don't want to totally murder my gas milage but I want an agressive looking tire.

If I could have fit a 33 I think I would have gone with the Mickey Thompson Baja MTZs. I've seen good reviews for both mud/trail and street on them. It looks like they have enough siping to keep you on the road when it's wet and they have a nice aggressive look.

mrbigjeep 04-27-2008 07:33 PM

i would definitely get the sye if you can

as for shocks i've heard great things about the RE monotubes and OME shocks.


i run the bfg muds and like them. you don't need an adjustable sway bar unless you want it and can afford it but i would at least get some disconnects

Ripcord 04-27-2008 09:24 PM

I think a few months back when I was looking at tires those were one of my final choices. I like them I worry about wear tho.

I was thinking about getting the RE shocks but damn there expensive

What is the deal with the disconects I am not fully understanding...lol Total Newb here?

Thanks for the replies

mrbigjeep 04-27-2008 09:32 PM

stock links are weak. and too short at 3.5" of lift. the disconnects allow you to disconnect the sway bar quickly allowing more flex on the trail. i'm not sure if the lift you got comes with extended sway bar links or not but if you don't plan on disconnecting then i guess extended links would be fine.

Ripcord 04-27-2008 09:44 PM

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What are the diff between these 2 the first one doesn't look like a complete kit. but they say it is.

mrbigjeep 04-28-2008 11:35 AM

the one on the left is a hack n' tap and the one on the right is a full replacement sye.

for the hack n' tap you have to drill into your transfer case to install it. i know some people that use the hack n' tap and have no problems but i would go for the full sye if you can.

4Jeepn 04-29-2008 09:08 AM

1st, You want to lift your jeep so why would you then lower the t-case skid. Makes no sense does it. The RE 3.5 is border line for an sye. Thus if you get the SYE which replaces the rear output shaft with a shorter one, you don't have to lower the t-case and you should be vibration free.

2nd, The hack and tap works as stated, but its sort of a band-aid to the problem.


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