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-   -   Skid plate selection (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/skid-plate-selection-181829.html)

mdutton 08-20-2012 08:36 PM

Skid plate selection
 
Looking for some recommendations as to what the best skid plate is to protect the tranny oil pan and possibly the engine oil pan for a 2005 TJ with 4.0/Auto. It does not have any lift kit at this time. Attended a Jeep Mania event this weeken and bend the stock skid plate up pretty bad on one of the rock gardens on the obstacle course. It slight dent the tranny oil pan. Luckily it was not bad it could have been must worse.There must be something better out there. Nice to have something that can be removed without too much work so it will still be easy for service work. But not comprise protection. Looked at a Skid Row one on Quadratec Any thoughts?

BLK00TJ 08-20-2012 08:41 PM

Check out Under Cover Fab

TnDz TJ 08-20-2012 10:24 PM

There is a lot to think about when you talk about skids for the oil pan, tranny and t-case....

Are you thinking of a tummy tuck at the same time? I ask because a lot of components and LOTS of money and time get consumed in the process. There are several threads covering such topics that will shed some light on the costs involved.

I just did the UCF TT WITHOUT the oil pan and trans skid...I plan on adding it later

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tumm...le-178112.html

.. base components are as follows for just the TT:

-High Clearance skid ( of course)
-Minimum of 1" BL for tub clearance and/or a Lopro mount can be used
-1" MML ( Motor Mount Lift)
-Adjustable Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms ( I recommend both )
-SYE ( recommended a megshort SYE to lessen the driveline angle )
-Rear CV style Drive-shaft ( required with SYE )
-Rear shock re-locators
-Adjustable rear track bar and/or angled track bar bracket to allow pinion rotation
- possibly' a Novak shift cable for t-case... you may be able to modify existing linkage to work, I did...
-There may be some mods involved with exahaust..
- 6 new 1/2x13 skid plate bolts since the OEM bolts are 'bowled' and won't hold the skid properly

All in all... you are looking at about $1200-$1500 for a complete install if you are starting from scratch.

mdutton 08-21-2012 09:42 AM

I am not planning a tummy tuck. Dothe not really want to do a body lift. Just looking for something fairly simple

mdutton 08-21-2012 09:45 AM

Anyone else got any suggestions?

UnlimitedLJ04 08-21-2012 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdutton (Post 2707469)
Anyone else got any suggestions?

read this:
So you want a Tummy Tuck... - JeepForum.com

yes, it's got tummy tuck in the title. read it anyway for the info.

fwiw, you don't NEED to do a BL....

Water Dog 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

Just put a good sized dent in my oil pan doing the Rubicon without protection for the pan. I'm going to take it off, pound it out, then do what a lot of others up there have done....Weld a piece of 3/16 or 1/4" plate right to the bottom of the pan....Heck, some of the after market plates bolt to the pan bolts and the bell housing anyway. This way it keeps it as high as possible and still offers protection.

IslandTJ 08-27-2012 08:35 PM

I run Skid Row, I use it and I like it. It mated well when I ran the stock OEM transfer case skid and likewise when I later upgraded to an UCF transfer case skid.

mdutton 08-29-2012 08:52 PM

I ordered the Skid Row skid plate. It appears to be straight forward but effective. Hopefully it will still be easy to take off for servicing. It is suppose to arrive tomorrow

BLK00TJ 08-29-2012 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdutton (Post 2739264)
I ordered the Skid Row skid plate. It appears to be straight forward but effective. Hopefully it will still be easy to take off for servicing. It is suppose to arrive tomorrow

You can get a valve for the oil plug to make oil changes easier. Hook up a tube and turn the valve. I'll see if I can dig up the link. I was just looking at it the other day.

BLK00TJ 08-29-2012 08:58 PM

Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve Installation - Jeep

geiman 08-30-2012 07:44 AM

The skid row should have a hole for the oil to drain through unless they've changed something, so it should still be easy to get a wrench on the oil pan drain bolt. The valve linked above is nice, but not a necessity. Not sure it would work with some of the plates that hug the pan like mine.

The only time you should need to remove the plate should be when doing something like dropping the transmission pan. Never worked with a Skid Row plate so I'm not sure how time consuming it is, but I doubt it takes much.


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