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-   -   Broken Rear Driveshaft Bolt (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/broken-rear-driveshaft-bolt-184046.html)

Intense951 08-31-2012 08:29 AM

Broken Rear Driveshaft Bolt
 
I was installing my rear driveshaft to my axle the other day and the bolt head to one of the U-Joint collars snapped off when torquing the bolt into the axle. I've been soaking the bolt in PB Blaster and I notched the bolt to try and attack it with a flat head screwdriver. I hit the bolt and flange with some heat for 2 minutes and the bolt didn't budge. When I try to put visegrips on the bolt, they just slip off. There is locktight on the bolt and that may be adding to the issue. Any magic tips to get this bolt out?

Jerry Bransford 08-31-2012 03:32 PM

At this point I would just install a new yoke. One thing about those little 8mm screws that hold the u-joints in place is that they don't require much torque. I use blue locktite on the threads and my smallest/shortest 8mm box-end wrench and get it real snug but that's it. The yoke itself is what really holds the u-joint and provides the strength.

Intense951 09-13-2012 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
At this point I would just install a new yoke. One thing about those little 8mm screws that hold the u-joints in place is that they don't require much torque. I use blue locktite on the threads and my smallest/shortest 8mm box-end wrench and get it real snug but that's it. The yoke itself is what really holds the u-joint and provides the strength.

Thanks Jerry! I was able to take the yoke off the old axle that I had and put the new yoke on the used axle that I was putting in. Now after I drove the rig, I noticed that there is a lot of diff oil leaking out from the pinon. Is the pinon seal busted and causing the leak and should I replace it?

mike481 09-13-2012 09:42 PM

Did you check the yoke for any wear groves? If you didn't at least use a little emery cloth to clean up the old yoke you may have ruined the pinion seal.

C.L. 09-13-2012 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 2745339)
One thing about those little 8mm screws that hold the u-joints in place is that they don't require much torque.

What he said. The torque spec is stupid low, like 14 ft-lbs.

Trevor C 09-13-2012 10:16 PM

I did the samething, it doesn't feel tight at all until you snap it off, its been a long time sence this happend and I've never fixed it only have 3 bolts and I go wheeling every weekend doesn't seem to hurt it.

Intense951 09-14-2012 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike481 (Post 2790511)
Did you check the yoke for any wear groves? If you didn't at least use a little emery cloth to clean up the old yoke you may have ruined the pinion seal.

Thanks Mike! I didn't check the yoke for any wear groves. I'll do that next, but I think that I may have screwed the pinion seal due to the oil leaking. I previously had sprayed the yoke down with brake cleaner and wiping with a cloth but didn't look for wear grooves.

I was looking at new yokes/seals and the HD yoke replacement with U-Bolts looks like a good option. I see two different styles of yokes though, one has a flange that looks like it mates up with the diff housing and one that doesn't (looks like the old yoke expect through holes for the U-Bolts). Both say that they fit the dana 35. Is there a real difference between the two and will they both work?

Jerry Bransford 09-14-2012 09:16 AM

If you get a yoke that includes u-bolts instead of straps, be extremely wary of overtightening the u-bolts! Overtightened u-bolts will quickly take out the bearings in the u-joints and it's easy to overtighten them. Trust me that the strap type yokes hold the u-joints just as effectively and it's less likely they will damage the u-joints.


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