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-   -   Started working on my Jeep today, I've got a few questions. (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f19/started-working-on-my-jeep-today-ive-got-a-few-questions-18763.html)

White93ARB 05-24-2008 04:15 PM

Started working on my Jeep today, I've got a few questions.
 
I had a few threads up a couple days ago about some problems my Jeep started givng me: one being about a leaky gas tank and one about my in dash BRAKE light being on.

I figured out the brake problem I think...
The passenger side rear brake cylinder is leaking real bad all inside of the drum and a little out of the drum down the tire.
Me and a buddy, who both have more than basic mechanical knowledge, couldn't get much farther than having the cylinder ready to be pulled out other than the brake line. We were using a 3/8 wrench and it didn't seem like it was right, it seemed to fit but maybe the two forks of the cheap wrench were bending. But I'm not even sure 3/8" is right.
He finally tried to break it loose with some vice-grips, and that worked.
But then when you went to loosen the fitting, the whole brake line turned with it, like the flared end of the line was stuck to the fitting or something. If you held the line, it would still twist with the fitting, so we didn't want to try to push it too far and break the brake line.

Any ideas on that?
Anyone done a brake cylinder before?
Is it pretty difficult? How much should I look at spending?

As for the gas tank:
We had all the necessary bolts pulled out, and a jack supporting it. I took out the bolts holding the filler neck to the rubber thing under the cap, and pushed the filler through the tube.
We could only lower it so far before the drivers side would stop but the passengers side would keep coming down.

Does anyone know everything involved in dropping the tank on a YJ?

Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks guys

Scotty355 05-24-2008 04:38 PM

It sounds like your brake lines are rusted bad. Follow the line up to the top of the axle, there should be a T connector there, remove the whole line (even if it breaks in two) I would also remove the other side also as it is probably rusty also then you can go to the auto parts store and have them match it up to ensure you get the right size, but bending is involved as they are sold in strait pieces or you can order a prebent from the dealer.
While you are at the dealer or parts store just pick up both cylinders for the axle. Once you see them it is an easy task to replace.
I haven't bought one in some time but they where cheap.

As for the tank try to get a look up on top as the fuel lines and wiring may be holding it up.

Scotty355 05-24-2008 04:42 PM

Also take a good look at your brake shoes you might as well change those since it is apart, especially if they are soaked with brake fluid.

White93ARB 05-24-2008 04:49 PM

The lines don't look too rusty, but that makes sense that it could be what it holding the line to the fitting.

Damn it this looks like its gonna be another fun adventure.

Thanks for your help Scotty

4.0l sahara 05-24-2008 04:55 PM

When the nut rust to the flare it's better to just break it and bend/flare a new line. Mine did it to me the line still looked fine but was seized. Best to use a line wrench on all the fittings.

jpdocdave 05-24-2008 05:53 PM

you should replace the lines since the flare nut is seized to the line. BUT, if you're in a pinch hold the flare with the vice grips, loosen the two bolts holding the cylinder on, and pull the cylinder out just a little, and turn the cylinder loose, instead of turning the flare nut on the line.

since the flare nut on the line won't turn freely, do the opposite and turn the whole cylinder, hold the nut end w/ vice grips, and turn the cylinder with big pliers or something. you gotta keep the line real steady.

it is best to replace the bad lines, but if you don't want to, or can't, this works if you're careful.

whitebuffalo 05-24-2008 10:54 PM

same thing when mine went bad. mine was driver side. i bought a piece of preflared/fitted hard brake line for like, 5 bucks and a tubing bender for about 5 also. its alot easier than having to reflare the existing end IMO. use the old line to match up the bends onto your new one.

on your fuel tank, theres chingos of hoses, and theyre mostly on the driver side. lower it as much as you can, then reach up on top and see whats binding. the fuel pump is also on the d-side, so make sure to unplug that harness. if you're pulling on the wires, it wouldnt be a bad idea to disconnect the negative on your battery, if you were to break those wires and they arced, itd make for a bad day.

whiteyj 05-25-2008 01:25 AM

As WB stated....Vent lines and the electrical for the fuel pump both need to be unplugged to release the tank.

White93ARB 05-25-2008 12:17 PM

There were just so many hoses and wires and stuff I didn't really know where to start and didn't wanna mess anything up. Its pretty dirty under my Jeep and I didn't want to have dirt end up in my fuel system.
It seemed like there was a few different places where I could unhook the lines, one wasn't on the tank, but a little forward, where the rubber fuel lines are hose clamped to the hard metal fuel lines. I didn't know which to unplug so me and a buddy just stopped there and I posted a thread. Theres a pending sale and the guy is just going to trailer it home, he has just been waiting for me to find a vehicle, but its only for $4000 so I emailed the guy yesterday and told him whats up, and asked if he would be alright with me fixing the brake problem and him taking care of the fuel problem, and he could come pick it up next weekend. But I think he is on a weekend trip in his other Jeep as he asked me if there would be anyway he could have my Jeep for memorial weekend for his wife on their Rubicon trip.

So I may not have to fix the gas tank.

whitebuffalo 05-28-2008 09:47 AM

i disco'ed all mine at the tank FWIW


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