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-   -   Oh what to do (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f60/oh-what-to-do-201156.html)

wanderlust 11-23-2012 10:49 AM

Oh what to do
 
Still figuring out what to do with my suspension... 4 link, 3 link, 5 link, coil overs, cantilever rear setup... Ahhh.. So many options... Need to get on long arms, short arms with my amount of travel has been more of a problem than it is worth.

Hidrorayo 11-23-2012 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanderlust (Post 3024390)
Still figuring out what to do with my suspension... 4 link, 3 link, 5 link, coil overs, cantilever rear setup... Ahhh.. So many options... Need to get on long arms, short arms with my amount of travel has been more of a problem than it is worth.

I need to start figuring out what to change on my Jeep as well.
I think I'll be very happy if I let the guys @ T&T Customs do their thing with my Jeep.

Something like this would be sick:

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps892ee3d7.jpg

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1a986fa1.jpg

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/DSC06021.jpg

Maybe someday :whistling:

jagerhelix 11-23-2012 01:36 PM

That is a sick setup.

wanderlust 11-23-2012 02:14 PM

One of the biggest problems for jk rear suspension is the fuel tank. Being mounted along the side is a pain for non-factory link arrangements

Hidrorayo 11-23-2012 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagerhelix (Post 3024797)
That is a sick setup.

I actually ran into a guy at a gas station in Boulder
he had a 2DR JK on 43's or 42's Iroks I forget what exact size with that T&T setup and other goodies man I was drooling over it :eek:

Those pics that I posted are from a build thread, you can follow the build thread here:

T&T Custom's project "Apocalypto" - JeepForum.com

jagerhelix 11-23-2012 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanderlust
One of the biggest problems for jk rear suspension is the fuel tank. Being mounted along the side is a pain for non-factory link arrangements

I like the way Evo addressed that with the rear double throwdown coil over setup, but that's like 4500 bucks

wanderlust 11-23-2012 03:32 PM

They addressed running coilovers with out cutting up the body. To run a true triangulated four link you have to move the fuel tank. Genrite has done it but they have a fuel tank that goes where the muffler is and remove the factory tank completely. I ran a half ass four link for awhile but it had horrible short comings. Couldn't get the geometry right without ditching the fuel tank. I may go to a three link rear and completely shave all the brackets off the axle and start from scratch. Jk lower arm brackets just hang down way to far. With a full width 1 ton in the rear I may be able to outboard a set of coilovers but I would have to sit down a really measure stuff. May have to pinch in the frame in the rear.

jagerhelix 11-24-2012 08:50 AM

At least with the 3 link it's just a truss mounted control arm going to a new rear upper control arm crossbar right? besides the prep and labor it looks like a fairly inexpensive transition. You could probably recoup some cost by selling your uppers too

Oldguy 11-24-2012 09:27 AM

I love the "just". Properly setting one up is a bitch. Then there is the crappy handling on the road. I am setting up my truss for variable link spacing on the upper links. Spaced close you get nearly the same articulation as with a three link, set wide you get much better stability.

jagerhelix 11-24-2012 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldguy
I love the "just". Properly setting one up is a bitch. Then there is the crappy handling on the road. I am setting up my truss for variable link spacing on the upper links. Spaced close you get nearly the same articulation as with a three link, set wide you get much better stability.

I guess it's a theoretical "just". it's one of the more simple designs. I've never experienced fine tuning one though. Good to know though since I've been looking at the 3 link as a future possibility. I'm very curious how on road handling is with that.

wanderlust 11-24-2012 12:51 PM

3 links need alot more math, they are great offroad. Lower links control axle placement, uppers are for axle roll. Three links have a habit of the axle moving around.. Depending on the spacing on a single triangle rear, it can also do the same thing. Double triangulated is the way to do it. I may wind up with a 3 link but, will have an aftermarket rear sway bar and coilovers with position sensitive dampening.

Oldguy 11-24-2012 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagerhelix (Post 3027378)
I guess it's a theoretical "just". it's one of the more simple designs. I've never experienced fine tuning one though. Good to know though since I've been looking at the 3 link as a future possibility. I'm very curious how on road handling is with that.

It is the tuning that is a headache, even on a basic four link. Lift has to be really tied down before you even start and even a relative minor change can blow the whole thing out of the water. Roll axis is fairly stable once you have your basic configuration. Anti squat is where things can go south with even minor changes so you try to build in as much adjustability as possible. When you go to a three link the roll axis becomes very critical because the upper link becomes a pivot point for the whole jeep. That's why Dan has to factor in ways to compensate for that pivot point. A fairly wide separation on the upper links of a four link produces a fair amount of inherent stability at the cost of flexibility. Moving the separation of the upper links closer reduces the stability and provides more flexibility. If the upper link mounts are set up carefully adjusting that stability factor reduces to pulling two bolts, shifting the links and putting the bolts back. You have flexibility when you want it and stability the rest of the time. Probably still want a stiffer rear sway bar but the super sophisticated variable rate shocks shouldn't be necessary. I try to keep things as simple as possible.

wanderlust 11-25-2012 04:04 PM

Probably still want a stiffer rear sway bar but the super sophisticated variable rate shocks shouldn't be necessary. I try to keep things as simple as possible.


ahh Ed, they are not that bad :whistling: Nice thing about King shocks is the life time $50 rebuild/revalve. They cost a bit more upfront but over the life of the product it pays back. Who knows what I am going to do, havent even settled on a design, once I do it will be sometime after that before I am even ready to cut, weld or bend anything

Oldguy 11-25-2012 06:16 PM

yeah, you're always getting wound up over these new fangled contraptions. Four link suspensions have been around forever, practically since the invention of the steam engine. I just can't see turning the rear of my jeep into a teeter totter.

I figure that you will come up with and discard forty or fifty suspensions before the first of the year. Have you considered converting to leaf springs? It would give you a truly one of a kind look.

Or you could do a transverse leaf four link like the 1930 fords used. I've always liked how they look...

wanderlust 11-25-2012 06:19 PM

Hmmm, mono leaf.....

Oldguy 11-25-2012 06:40 PM

You know, as silly as it sounds, it could actually work. Equal length parallel four link, shackles mounted to the axle, centered on a subframe. It would be flexy as hell, no hassles with triangulation, but you would definitely need those fancy shocks ;)

Oldguy 11-25-2012 06:51 PM

Oh, there is one slight problem with this design. Those shackles on the axle would give bump steer a whole new level of meaning...

wanderlust 11-25-2012 06:54 PM

Ya, hmm.. Would be an interesting experiment

Oldguy 11-25-2012 08:02 PM

You go first :D


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