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-   -   Spray Painting in the cold (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/spray-painting-in-the-cold-207365.html)

MikalCarbine 12-26-2012 08:28 AM

Spray Painting in the cold
 
My girlfriend got me Rokmen rock sliders for Christmas :dance::dance: When they come in I want to prime and paint them asap.

From what I know rule of thumb is to never rattle can paint its below 50* F. I have a 18,000 BTU portable propane heater, I was thinking of getting my garage nice and warm, painting the sliders and maintain the warm temperature for 4-8 hours, should that be enough to let the paint properly cure? My only concern with this is ventilation, I could put a fan in the garage window but I don't know if this would be enough or if my propane heater could keep up with the cold while exhausting the fumes

Patrick H 12-26-2012 08:52 AM

Also, heat the rockers with a heat gun. It'll take a little while, but they'll hold some warmth for quite a while. Heat your spray paint cans in a sink of hot water, too. Makes a huge difference.

krisbman 12-26-2012 08:59 AM

Man, do you have a cheap spray gun? If you do go to your local hardware store and buy a quart of rustoleum flat black rather than spray bombs. If not spray cans arent near as tempremantal as catalyzed paint when it comes to ambient temp. I would heat the rockers up like the other fella said or yer paint is gonna be running off the cold metal. Light coats is the key. Your space heater will work just be sure to have fresh air coming in or your lady will find you takin a dirt nap in the shop.

krisbman 12-26-2012 08:59 AM

Just let the sliders sit over night youll be fine

Wattapunk 12-26-2012 09:11 AM

Unless you don't mind getting your whole garage covered with specks of black paint and fumes, I would recommend painting it outside then moving it in the garage for dry time of a couple of days.

UFOtestpilot 12-26-2012 09:13 AM

Something about a "garage full of fumes" and a "propane heater" make me nervous. Probably just paranoid.

krisbman 12-26-2012 09:23 AM

He should be ok on the overspray issue, that stuff dries so fast in the air if it does land on anything it wouldnt stick especially since everything has a thin coat of dust on it. As far as ventilation as long as he has fresh air coming in and some sort of exhaust he should be fine, but whith what little hes doing i would just get the garage warm, then paint them with the door open, and use a respirator. Spray bombs make me more light headed than normal catalyzed paint.

MikalCarbine 12-26-2012 09:44 AM

No go on the spray gun :( The paint fumes and propane heater did cross my mind though :whistling:

Is the actual problem with the cold from the curing process or the paint adhering? If it is just the curing process, I could probably heat the sliders, paint them outside, store in garage in between coats (60 minutes?) and then store in my basement for the final curing

krisbman 12-26-2012 09:47 AM

You dont need to wait that long between coats dude. More like ten. Just get the sliders warm spray a coat on then warm them again between coats. A few hours and they will be dry enough to handle.

G-LOVE 12-26-2012 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krisbman (Post 3143720)
Spray bombs make me more light headed than normal catalyzed paint.

That's half the fun!!:zap:

Seriously, I tried to use one of those propane heaters a couple winters back. I became very sick after using it. I don't think I had proper ventilation, and it didn't really heat very well. This winter I may go with a coil heater/fan.

Good luck with the painting, and please post some pictures.

krisbman 12-26-2012 09:51 AM

No not really. Its called painters brain. Fyi, they put the smell in it so you know your smelling it, isocyanates dont smell. Those are what can kill you

ahawksfan 12-26-2012 09:57 AM

I just got some PSC mods and end up painting them myself. I have a heated garage that stays at least 60 degrees F.

My process was:
  1. I generally cleaned the materials
  2. Sanded with 400 grit sandpaper (per Rustoleum's instructions)
  3. Cleaned with mineral spirits (waited 5m to dry)
  4. Applied three coats of Rustoleum Self Etching Primer (45m dry between coats)
  5. Note - did not sand between coats
  6. Applied three coats of Rustoleum Truck Bedliner (45m dry between coats)
  7. Waited at least 12 hours before moving or painting other side
  8. Waited at least 3 days before installing

I noticed that the paint really isn't dry and can be easily removed/scrapped. :banghead: It comes off directly from the bumper (including primer).

I think I should have sanded with 220 grit because the PSC materials are very smooth from manufacturing and 400 grit is like sanding with a paper towel.

Any thoughts or comments?

krisbman 12-26-2012 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahawksfan
I just got some PSC mods and end up painting them myself. I have a heated garage that stays at least 60 degrees F.

My process was:

[*]I generally cleaned the materials[*]Sanded with 400 grit sandpaper (per Rustoleum's instructions)[*]Cleaned with mineral spirits (waited 5m to dry)[*]Applied three coats of Rustoleum Self Etching Primer (45m dry between coats)[*]Note - did not sand between coats[*]Applied three coats of Rustoleum Truck Bedliner (45m dry between coats)[*]Waited at least 12 hours before moving or painting other side[*]Waited at least 3 days before installing


I noticed that the paint really isn't dry and can be easily removed/scrapped. :banghead: It comes off directly from the bumper (including primer).

I think I should have sanded with 220 grit because the PSC materials are very smooth from manufacturing and 400 grit is like sanding with a paper towel.

Any thoughts or comments?

Yeah, its rattle can you cant expect it to perform like normal paint, and cleaning with mineral spirits probly wasnt the best choice since its oil based. Personall i woulda cleaned them with lacquer thinner and a scotch brite pad then etched them and bed lined them with raptor liner

Jacqui 12-27-2012 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahawksfan (Post 3143808)
I generally cleaned the materials

Soap (original Dawn) and water seem to be best for the initial cleaning. Be sure to rinse real well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahawksfan (Post 3143808)
Cleaned with mineral spirits (waited 5m to dry)

For bedliner, you'll want to use a rough sand paper, and remove as much paint as you can (if you're spraying over a painted surface). I use 80-100 grit sandpaper when I'm prepping for bedliner. Then wash it again with soap and water, followed by a good wiping with denatured alcohol or acetone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahawksfan (Post 3143808)
Applied three coats of Rustoleum Self Etching Primer (45m dry between coats)
Applied three coats of Rustoleum Truck Bedliner (45m dry between coats)

I noticed that the paint really isn't dry and can be easily removed/scrapped. :banghead: It comes off directly from the bumper (including primer).

Each type of paint (including bedliner) requires different primers. Some chemicals simply do not work well together. For Rustoleum bedliner, I don't think you're supposed to use self etching primer. For one thing, the bedliner should adhere well to a well-scuffed surface without the need of a primer. If you do want to use a primer though, use a flat spot primer. If you take a look at Rustoleum's instructions that comes with their bedliner kit, it specifies to use their spot primer over any surface rust spots, but not over everything. Then spray the bedliner. So, according to Rustoleum's instructions, most of the surface will be sprayed directly with the bedliner, without the need of a primer. If you do prime, only prime those little rusted spots with a flat spot primer.

Also, you don't need to wait so long between coats. You want to spray your next coat while the last one is still tacky. Wait 15-30 mins, not longer. Not sure if you should have used three coats of primer... Like I said, a quick spray of spot primer would be sufficient. And remember, bedliner requires a good seven days to fully cure. So you need to wait that long before testing it to see if it will scrape off. As an aside, I have noticed that bedliner cures much faster if used without primer. Our flares cured in a few hours since we didn't use primer. I accidentally scraped one all over a post just a few hours (3-4 hrs) after spraying and it took paint off the post instead of the other way around. :D Oh, you'll also want to stick spray cans in a bucket of hot water for a few minutes prior to spraying. The paint/bedliner will spray better when it's warmed up a bit.

Back to the OP, I think it really depends on exactly what type of paint you'll be using. If it's something that sets relatively quickly, you may be able to pull it off. My concern is propane without proper ventilation... I prefer a good radiator or three. Maybe hang your sliders, spray them and leave them over a radiator for a couple of days (or however long it takes for your chosen paint to fully cure)? I don't have much experience with trying to spray paint in cold weather... For 24 years, I lived in a part of FL where it didn't get cold and now live in the southern CA desert. Not much cold going on around here.

Water Dog 12-27-2012 08:55 AM

I used Krylon and no primer on mine after wiping them down with lacquer thinner because I knew I would be knocking the finish off in the rocks anyway. I wanted something that was easy to sand off a little and touch up. The Krylon has held up extremely well. If you have a place inside the house where you could set them and whatever paint you are using for a day before you painted them, it would give the metal and paint a chance to warm up.

SCOOPYS-YJ 12-27-2012 06:38 PM

just make shure the metal is warmed up, tried painting a truck a few years back, air temp was about 70, but the metal was only 40, lots of sanding to reapply the clear.


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