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-   -   Currie lift (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/currie-lift-217495.html)

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 01:33 PM

Currie lift
 
Pulling the trigger on a currie lift. Only question I have is what exactly is the "anti rock" swaybar. Read on their website that it distributes the weight evenly to all four tires. I'm trying figure what the advantage would be between that and the disconnects. Maybe I'm missing something, I don't quite fully understand that. Also, I got a rubi so I don't need a SYE correct? But will I need a CV shaft? Thanks everyone in advance

cmecha 02-06-2013 01:37 PM

this replaces your sway bar and if you look at the anti rock it has a number of leverage points built in.

Imped 02-06-2013 01:44 PM

Watch the video: Currie Enterprises 4x4 Rear Ends Antirock

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/anti...os-124765.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/search....=7785920&pp=25

That should do it.

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 01:47 PM

Thanks, anti rock it is! Lol

Will I need a CV shaft?

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 01:50 PM

Also there's the other lift they have with "heavy rear springs". I'm assuming that's for if you plan to have added weight like recovery gear and such correct?

Bgtklbx 02-06-2013 02:30 PM

When you are done with the lift then I would replace the stock rear drive shaft with a Tom Woods unit. They have a great web site that will help. A simple measurment and then they will send the correct one. They are super people and will answer the phone and help with questions. You do not have to change it, but you wont regret doing it. But, do it after the lift is installed and adjusted, that way the new drive shaft will be the correct length.

Dextreme 02-06-2013 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOONY90 (Post 3329666)
Thanks, anti rock it is! Lol

Will I need a CV shaft?

You should already have one. It should look similar to this:

http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mechan...e/Dsc01184.jpg

Gunner 02-06-2013 02:48 PM

The heavy is for a big tire/bumper with fuel tanks and recovery/camping gear in the back. Maybe a passenger in the back also. I have a teraflex 4 inch springs only lift which sags in the rear a bit and will be replacing it with the Savvy 4 inch progressive. They use the currie springs.

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 02:57 PM

Thanks everyone for the help. I know exactly what ima order now. As for the CV shaft, I meant a longer one to compensate for the angle of the dangle

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 03:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is what I got, which looks the same as yours

Imped 02-06-2013 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOONY90 (Post 3329914)
This is what I got, which looks the same as yours

Yes it is. That's not a double cardan drive shaft.

Gunner 02-06-2013 03:12 PM

I have the double cardan. It has 2 u joints in the front of the shaft and a single in the back.

Dextreme 02-06-2013 03:13 PM

This will help explain the differences: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com

Imped 02-06-2013 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunner (Post 3329969)
I have the double cardan. It has 2 u joints in the front of the shaft and a single in the back.

I understand that but both pictures shown thus far are OEM Rubicon rear drive shafts. Single joint shafts that attach to a fixed output yoke.

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 03:16 PM

Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dextreme
This will help explain the differences: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com

Thanks for the link. I'll read it when I get home tonight. Thanks alot for the help

Imped 02-06-2013 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOONY90 (Post 3329989)
Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.

I would recommend a double cardan drive shaft of the proper length, built with at least 2" x .120" wall DOM tube and Spicer components. Plenty of places can build a good drive shaft for you, not just Tom Woods. I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.

TJDave 02-06-2013 04:14 PM

Double Cardon shaft vs the stock Rubicon shafts shown above.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...1337018457.jpg

Patrick H 02-06-2013 04:14 PM

Quote:

I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.
Oh, come on! Out of the three shafts we've had built by TW, only two of them had issues. And only one of them was a crappy u-joint. That was the most recent one; a couple months ago.

:)

Jerry Bransford 02-06-2013 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imped (Post 3330008)
I would recommend a double cardan drive shaft of the proper length, built with at least 2" x .120" wall DOM tube and Spicer components. Plenty of places can build a good drive shaft for you, not just Tom Woods. I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.

Tom will install whatever u-joint you request. I have had 6 Tom Wood driveshafts over the years and every one of them was built with Spicer u-joints as requested.

Patrick H 02-06-2013 04:54 PM

I intend to buy a DC shaft from Tom, despite the problems my Dad has had with his last two shafts. They did take care of it. Balance issue AND a loose U-joint on the DC shaft for Dad's Rubi., and a run-out issue on a DC shaft for his Tux.

DevilDogDoc 02-06-2013 05:41 PM

Mines green, of unknown origin but has Spicer life u-joints in it....http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...72EF2C2125.jpg

SPOONY90 02-06-2013 06:03 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies. Got some research to do.

Bgtklbx 02-06-2013 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOONY90
Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.

Tom woods , double cardan


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