Jeep Wrangler Forum

Jeep Wrangler Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/)
-   TJ Tech Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/)
-   -   Need some help ASAP, screwed up big. (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/need-some-help-asap-screwed-up-big-218267.html)

Jwolfer 02-09-2013 05:30 PM

Need some help ASAP, screwed up big.
 
Well I was sick of my driveshaft chirping so I decided to take a look at my U joints in my front shaft. When I was putting the shaft back on the Jeep I broke one of the bolts and now I can't secure the shaft. Is it safe to drive at all? I might be able to get the bolt out with some vice grips but I haven't tried yet.

http://i.imgur.com/e0TjDkf.jpg

Jwolfer 02-09-2013 05:46 PM

Disregard. I was luckily able to get it out with my leatherman and some patience. I rigged this up to be able to limp to the hardware store.

http://i.imgur.com/Nm94wh1.jpg

RevCo666 02-09-2013 05:53 PM

That sir is one hell of a band aid hehehe

NC Bear 02-09-2013 06:20 PM

was it still there when you made it to the hardware store?

Jwolfer 02-09-2013 07:10 PM

I made it safely to the hardware store. Never underestimate the strength of a zip tie!

doclouie 02-09-2013 07:29 PM

I think you just got really lucky. Next time drop the shaft and run in 4 high. That could have been an expensive trip to the store.

Jerry Bransford 02-09-2013 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doclouie (Post 3345313)
I think you just got really lucky. Next time drop the shaft and run in 4 high. That could have been an expensive trip to the store.

X2, I'd hate to see what could have happened if the drive shaft came loose & fell down onto the street while you were driving. :eek:

But that is water under the bridge, your zip tie worked & got the job done.

Plowboy1970 02-09-2013 07:32 PM

That is his FRONT shaft. I would have taken the shaft completely out and then drove it.

tbensor 02-09-2013 07:35 PM

nice

Jwolfer 02-09-2013 09:35 PM

I actually tried taking it out but I couldnt get the shaft off on the t case side. I have a rubi so I think its a little different compared to the write ups I was looking at.

Black Magic Brakes 02-09-2013 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jwolfer (Post 3345892)
I actually tried taking it out but I couldnt get the shaft off on the t case side. I have a rubi so I think its a little different compared to the write ups I was looking at.

Nope, exactly the same. 4 bolts at the back, 4 at the front with straps, good to go. It is much easier to drop the belly skid and support the t-case though. I just did this today.

To make it very easy, reach up in there after you drop the driver's side of the belly skid down and remove the 4 bolts that hold the locker pumps to the skid. Then drop the skid and let the pumps hang.

Jwolfer 02-09-2013 10:46 PM

I may have to do that tomorrow. I didn't want to take the skid off but it might be easier.

SeVeReDiStOrTiOn 02-10-2013 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doclouie (Post 3345313)
I think you just got really lucky. Next time drop the shaft and run in 4 high. That could have been an expensive trip to the store.

Wouldn't have made it to the store without a front shaft in 4 high :D

SurfKaster 02-10-2013 12:49 AM

You can remove without dropping the pan, but not as easy. Can't say I would've run with zip tie, but I'm impressed.

eddieb1965 02-10-2013 06:58 AM

I wouldnt of tried that even if the hardware store was at the end of my driveway....

DaWrangler 02-10-2013 07:31 AM

WoW! nice "emergency" article.....Food for thought. I hope you got a quality bolt such as a grade #5 or #8 from the hardware store. My local ACE has nothing but Chinese scrap nuts & bolts. If ya didn't get quality, order that bolt from the dealer when you can. (The old "weakest link" story) LoL.....

James249G 02-10-2013 07:38 AM

I bought a YJ that had happened to... the drive shaft broke loose on the highway, broke both UJoints, ripped the exaust off, broke the NP231 tailhousing and BENT the mainshaft... it was a fun little project though!

H8DAHWY 02-10-2013 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doclouie (Post 3345313)
I think you just got really lucky. Next time drop the shaft and run in 4 high. That could have been an expensive trip to the store.

X2

Good thing you didnt have it under a heavy load.

Evpjr 02-10-2013 10:46 AM

My "Q" is ....... What were you using on a u-joint bolt to snap it off........ an 2000psi impact driver?

Jwolfer 02-10-2013 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evpjr (Post 3347522)
My "Q" is ....... What were you using on a u-joint bolt to snap it off........ an 2000psi impact driver?

I was just using a ratchet. I guess I'm too strong for my own good. :whistling:

Jerry Bransford 02-10-2013 03:45 PM

On small hardware like that, use nothing larger than a 1/4" ratchet drive on the smaller 8mm side or 3/8" ratchet drive on the 1/2" side which will help prevent snapped hardware. That is why, for example, combination box-end/open-end wrenches get shorter as their size gets smaller... to help set the appropriate torque for their intended sizes of hardware. :)

sinbob 02-10-2013 03:45 PM

Food for thought...take the other bolts out and tie the drive shaft up and out of the way. It just free wheels in the xfer. Oh but don't forget to tape the caps on.
When i was getting a funny noise from undernieth the 4whl parts mech told me to do this.....that is how I found out the cv joint was bad without having to drop the skid plate.

Man I bet your guardian angel:angel: was working wayyyyyyy overtime!!!!

Jwolfer 02-10-2013 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 3348539)
On small hardware like that, use nothing larger than a 1/4" ratchet drive on the smaller 8mm side or 3/8" ratchet drive on the 1/2" side which will help prevent snapped hardware. That is why, for example, combination box-end/open-end wrenches get shorter as their size gets smaller... to help set the appropriate torque for their intended sizes of hardware. :)

As always, great info Jerry. Thanks.

Sycboi 02-10-2013 11:13 PM

Go to Advance Auto parts and get the Neapco strap and bolt kit for our TJ's. It is actually Spicer parts being sold in their box. Spicer stamped right on the straps and thread locked already on the bolts. Like $5.29 here locally, part number Part No. 1-0022. One kit is 2 straps and 4 bolts...

-Michael

C.L. 02-11-2013 08:50 AM

I hate to tell you, but chirping is probably from the centering ball in the cardan joint. I just rebuilt mine a couple weeks ago using the fantastic writeup found here:
Front Drive Shaft Overhaul - 1

I can share some ups and downs from the procedure...

Ups:
-The driveshaft can be easily removed with an 8mm ratcheting box wrench without dropping the skid plate. Go in from the front and feel where the yolk bolts are with your finger, slip the wrench over and you're good to go even without being able to see them. There are no straps/u-bolts on the transfer case side of the yolk. The bolts go straight through and screw into the cardan joint yolk. (i have a rubicon too, so there should be no difference there).

-There are no tiny pieces or springs/retainers that jump out at you when you take the thing apart and are impossible to reassemble.

-The cardan u-joints are relatively easy to align and press in/out with a simple C-clamp style press. I have the ball joint press from Harbor Freight listed in Stu's writeup.

Downs:
-Removing the centering ball/collar from it's yolk with basic hand tools required more profanity and BFH application than anything else i have done to this Jeep. Luckily you can tap the new one in easily with a socket that matches the collar diameter. Don't hammer it in by the ball. And don't forget to pack it full of grease before reassembling, since there's no zerk serving the centering ball area.

-Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, sealed the axle side u-joint into the driveshaft ears with some sort of high temp polymer that makes JB Weld look like wax. I maxxed out the Harbor Freight press, heated the ears with a propane torch until the grease started to smoke out of the caps, and then beat on the press shaft with a BFH until it began to mushroom, and the joint refused to budge. After much swearing i gave up and took it to a friend who has a 20 ton press in his basement. We maxxed THAT out and beat on the ears with a BFH and it STILL didn't let go! When we took it out though, it looked like one of the caps may have been a hair further out than the other, so we flipped the shaft 180 and put it back in the press. Back up to 20 tons, and the first tap with a hammer resulted in something that sounded like a shotgun going off... Luckily it was the caps breaking free, but i get the feeling there was probably 50/50 odds it was going to be an ear snapping off instead. The new u-joint came with snap rings to retain it, like any sane manufacturer should have used in the first place.

Take care when following the writeups, that the Rubicon shaft DOES require different parts than the Sport/Sahara/SE/X shafts. I don't have Spicer part#s for you; i ordered Moog super strength non-greasables from RockAuto. After seeing the cap seals on the new joints vs. the stock ones being replaced, i'd order Spicer replacements next time around. The grease seals are obviously superior at a glance.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:59 PM.